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    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) Bob Cline is offline
      Builder Last Online: Mar 2012 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 07-30-06 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Has anyone used these products? I need an aluminum finish that looks good and can stand handling unlike Alclad Testors Metallizers .

      In aluminum - Testors makes buffing, non-buffing, spray can and sealer. I'm assuming you get the best finish with the buffing metallizer and sealer. Is this correct?
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  1. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Sep 2005
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    I've used them extensively and there are a couple of ways I was able to make them shine pretty close to Alclad Testors Metallizers if not as good. First, the piece I'm metalizing has to be smoothed and polished like you would your body coat. I use sanding Testors Metallizers pads from 1500 to 12000 grit. Any defect will show up at the end. Don't use any wax products though. Next spray the part with a few coats of primer Testors Metallizers . Polish the primer Testors Metallizers like you would paint also without using any wax product. Then spray on several coats of your aluminum plate metalizer Testors Metallizers and let it gas out well between coats. When it's cured after about 24 to 48 hours, gently polish the metalizer Testors Metallizers like you've been doing being careful not to cut through to the primer Testors Metallizers or worse the plastic. It can still be fixed if you do but it just takes extra time. Now you have a choice. Way # 1 is to take SnJ metal polishing powder and with a soft cloth I rub the powder into the polished surface and buff to a shine. The second way to get a great shine after you've done the paint polishing is to take your Dremel Testors Metallizers motor tool on a slow speed and polish the paint again but very gently otherwise you may burn, cut or melt the surface. If you want to see what kind of shine you get, check out my blown flathead in the gallery. The Hillborn scoop was done like that and the other parts were done with different shades of metalizers. They are good products but they do take some time to work right. To me, it's a lot less technique sensitive than alclad Testors Metallizers . If you have trouble with the stuff, let me know and I'll help you out. Try it out on some scrap plastic and practice the technique a few times. Like I said, I'll help you out as you need it.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #2

  2. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I made one boo boo about where pics of my engine are. Go to the hot Testors Metallizers rod gallery to scale engines. It's the one with the blower and the dark green engine block.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #3

  3. Deuces-wild's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Guido
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    How right you are Jeff. I bought a box of styrene Testors Metallizers plastic teaspoons just for this type of work. Shoot paint on the back side of the spoon like you would on a kit part. Let it dry and then do the elbow grease thing. Then check your progress. These are great to experiment with. Helps build confidence for when your ready to shoot that first layer of paint on a kit part with your airbrush Testors Metallizers or rattle can. :) O==\\\\---------o
    QUOTE QUOTE #4

  4. Bob Cline's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Bob
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    Great info. I'll be needing both polished and as-cast finishes. You didn't mention the sealer, so I assume it's not necessary. Where do you get the SnJ metal powder? Is this the stuff that's been discontinued?


    Testors Metallizers
    QUOTE QUOTE #5

  5. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I've never used the sealer because everyone said it takes away the shine. Again, I'd have to experiment with the sealer. If the parts aren't handled roughly, the polish stays pretty good. Also, the parts can be easily repolished. Now for the SnJ. Yes the stuff has been discontinued but it's still around if you search the hobby shops. If you polish the paint like I did with the Deremel, you won't need the powder. I'll do a test on a plastic spoon (great idea) and post the result.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #6

  6. Bob Cline's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Bob
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    I went out and got the alum plate buffing and the sealer. I'll post the results.


    Testors Metallizers
    QUOTE QUOTE #7

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