Testors Metallizers

[hot ford coupe]

I've used them extensively and there are a couple of ways I was able to make them shine pretty close to Alclad if not as good. First, the piece I'm metalizing has to be smoothed and polished like you would your body coat. I use sanding pads from 1500 to 12000 grit. Any defect will show up at the end. Don't use any wax products though. Next spray the part with a few coats of primer . Polish the primer like you would paint also without using any wax product. Then spray on several coats of your aluminum plate metalizer and let it gas out well between coats. When it's cured after about 24 to 48 hours, gently polish the metalizer like you've been doing being careful not to cut through to the primer or worse the plastic. It can still be fixed if you do but it just takes extra time. Now you have a choice. Way # 1 is to take SnJ metal polishing powder and with a soft cloth I rub the powder into the polished surface and buff to a shine. The second way to get a great shine after you've done the paint polishing is to take your Dremel motor tool on a slow speed and polish the paint again but very gently otherwise you may burn, cut or melt the surface. If you want to see what kind of shine you get, check out my blown flathead in the gallery. The Hillborn scoop was done like that and the other parts were done with different shades of metalizers. They are good products but they do take some time to work right. To me, it's a lot less technique sensitive than alclad . If you have trouble with the stuff, let me know and I'll help you out. Try it out on some scrap plastic and practice the technique a few times. Like I said, I'll help you out as you need it.

[hot ford coupe]

I made one boo boo about where pics of my engine are. Go to the hot rod gallery to scale engines. It's the one with the blower and the dark green engine block.

[Deuces-wild]

How right you are Jeff. I bought a box of styrene plastic teaspoons just for this type of work. Shoot paint on the back side of the spoon like you would on a kit part. Let it dry and then do the elbow grease thing. Then check your progress. These are great to experiment with. Helps build confidence for when your ready to shoot that first layer of paint on a kit part with your airbrush or rattle can. :) O==\\\\---------o

[Bob Cline]

Great info. I'll be needing both polished and as-cast finishes. You didn't mention the sealer, so I assume it's not necessary. Where do you get the SnJ metal powder? Is this the stuff that's been discontinued?

[hot ford coupe]

I've never used the sealer because everyone said it takes away the shine. Again, I'd have to experiment with the sealer. If the parts aren't handled roughly, the polish stays pretty good. Also, the parts can be easily repolished. Now for the SnJ. Yes the stuff has been discontinued but it's still around if you search the hobby shops. If you polish the paint like I did with the Deremel, you won't need the powder. I'll do a test on a plastic spoon (great idea) and post the result.

[Bob Cline]

I went out and got the alum plate buffing and the sealer. I'll post the results.