Stick 'um for resin parts

[88Proof]

Hi, I use Sho-Goo found at Wal-mart and Target in the shoe department and the household glues are. Buy the smaller tubes, the stuff stays fresher longer. It dies fast, I use a small screw driver to apply it then hold it there for a couple seconds and let dry. I sets up fast, is very strong and somewhat flexible if you put it on thicker. I've used it for years and I've never had a part come off any of my hard body drag slot cars the bodies split or cracked and a couple crashed at 40 actual MPH! Some of the cars hit 57 MPH but fortunately didn't crash. I personally like it on the suspensions and engines. Please let me know, I have another product I use but have to get more at the auto parts store to see the name, it's very strong. Keith Scoviak. :)

[hot ford coupe]

40 to 57 actual MPH???? I was lucky I could even get mine to move at all.

[88Proof]

:cool: Hi, here's my email address. keiscv@aol.com, give me yours and I'll send you some pictures of the hardbodies. These are plastic kit bodies on steel and brass frames, lazer or CNC cut aluminum wheels, carbon fiber, and motors that can go into the hundreds. I like to buld them not run them much. Some of the cars I sold as rollers won races and good awards for paint and detail so I was told. There's funny cars and dragsters that hit over 100 and they stop in the last few feet of track coated in sticky glue.

You are very knowledgeable on 1/8th, let me ask you this question. I was at an antique mall in Wisconin a couple years ago and there appeared to be a 1/8 53 or 54 Vette, an Oldsmobile from that same era with a 6 cylinder in it, and a 55 or 56 T-bird in red. They were in boxes unbuilt but looked to be crudely molded, I think I saw ITC on each box. I didn't buy them at over 200 each, was I dreaming or were these 1/8th thanks Keith Scoviak.

[hot ford coupe]

Hey Keith, here's what I'm going to do to keep this thread pure. Meet me over at the Builder's Corner and I'll continue this thought there. Thanks. :)

[Jalopie Jim]

In working with my scratch-built rear-end tonight, I tried something that worked & thought I'd pass it along............
"Gorilla Glue" (Ace Hardware, among others) works well as a glue for resin . Use sparingly, spritz a little water one of the parts to be joined, clamp, and you may have to clean a little "overflow" after this stuff dries, as it foams up & gains volume as it dries (about 30-40%). But it sticks resin to resin (& styrene ) really well. :cool:

[Don Garrett]

I've used it for eveything from models to automotive and household repairs.
I like it because you don't have to mix it, but like Jim says if you don't think you have applied enough you probably used too much!

[hot ford coupe]

What about that JB Weld stuff? Anyone know if that's any good? I also found some stuff for rubber. I haven't been able to try it yet.

[bcaron]

I haven't used J-B Weld on a model, but fixed a vacuum leak on a 1:1 intake manifold with it. Worked well.

Has a consistancy of Epoxy before it dries.

bob

[Don Garrett]

When J-B Weld has cured it can be sanded, drilled, filed.....all that stuff.

[hot ford coupe]

Thanks guys. That helps me a great deal. Somebody told me they used JB Weld to fix engine blocks and it worked.