Chassis Jig

[Rick]

Sorry guys, forgot to add this.........once the yellow chassis is secured and leveled in the jig, the elastic bands will be removed and the kit X members dropped out. At that point, its time for boxing and custom suspension and X members.

Rick

[Gluhead]

Makes me wonder how I got my deuce frame together at all. :D :D :D

Nice.

Glu

[classicrocknrods]

That thing would be great for doing brass frames.A real help at keeping them square n tight while soldering!! Nothing I could afford yet, but would want one sooner or later.Drop me a PM with the info on it so I can keep it around until I am ready.Thanks.

[modelmaker]

Thats the sort of comment I like to see classic awsome ;)

[Rick]

Some of you have asked about buying one of my chassis jigs. I'll be honest, I don't want to get into producing them. Because of the weight, I'd have to build a very strong crate and that, combined with shipping costs and the cost of the jig would make it cost prohibitive for the purchaser.

I took the idea, and an 8th scale chassis, to a friend who works in a machine shop. He created the program, ran it in a CNC machine and several hours later we had a jig. Total cost was under $400. I know that some of you have a lathe, drill press and milling machine so if you want to take the time, you could build something similar in your home shop.

If any of you want to build this jig, feel free to use my pictures and if you want measurements I'll gladly share them. If anyone wants to get into production, go for it. All I ask is that credit for the original design goes to "Magoo" from the old BSM site.

I've attached a few pictures of another, very simple jig. I took some aluminum angle plate and made four uprights. The front and rear are carved to accept the front and rear spreader bars from the "Real Steal" chassis. The uprights could also be shaped to hold front and rear RM X members or you could add spreader bars to the RM chassis. The side uprights are notched to hold the chassis side rails. All four uprights are secured to a piece of flat plastic. This is a very simple, yet effective jig. It allows you to "square" the chassis and also gives a lot of working room.

Thanks for the complements and to all the others who are shareing their work here, good on ya. This is great stuff!!

Rick

[ScaleMotorcars]

Sure do wish he still make those Deuces. I tried tracking him down some time ago but I cant find anything now. I think he went out of business.

Some of you may have seen this before and it runs along the same lines as Ricks jig and frame. Below is the Custom Styling Studio's hoto etched frame for the Deuce. Not a cheap deal I think a finished frame was something like $750.00 but I though it might help you guys with ideals on your own builds.

[Herman]

Anybody knows the thickness of the brass used in the above frame?

[Rick]

For everyone's information, the last address I have for Jack Sternaman of "Real Stuff" is 10109 Gravois Rd, St Louis MO, 63123. I haven't talked to him for a while so am not sure if he is still producing the tin 32 roadster.

Rick

[ScaleMotorcars]

Just got off the phone with Jack. Real nice guy hes still doing the Deuce but only on a very limited basis. In fact he's starting to wind down on production all together. He's sending me some info that Ill be happy to share with you but he also asked that he not get bugged with tons of questions. He doesn't sell just parts only the complete cars.

Sorry Rick I took the telephone # off your post. He deliberately doesn't want it getting out that much since hes concentrating on the 1:1 stuff.

He also told me about several models on display near me in the NHRA museum. Ill try and swing by there soon and get you guys some pics.

Don't know what guage that photo etched frame is but by the looks of that sheet it cant be that thick.

[ScaleMotorcars]

I dont have many pictures of Jacks cars but heres a few. Notice the detail to the body is actually alot nicer then the Monogram Deuce. Hes sending me the price list and Ill forward the info when I get it. :D