Details, Details.

[hot ford coupe]

Don's got the right idea. It's the difference between a beginner and a more advanced modeler. Whenever I do a model, it's research, research, and then research. My biggest problem is that I don't work on cars and don't know enough about them. I try to pay attention to research details and pictures as much as I can. I go to museums, car shows and take pictures wherever I can for as much detail as I can. I also rely on the kindness of others to help me evaluate my own work. I don't post pictures just to show what I can do, I post them so someone can tell me if I made a booboo or if I've forgotten something. I remember when Don took a look at my deuce engine and said " where's the dipstick?". That got me thinking. I said" where's the fuel pump"? and I scratchbuilt one. I've asked questions when I couldn't find the answers myself and got myself some great info and pics. Also, do what you can depending on your own ability and skills. Getting yourself way too deep can cause great frustration and you'll never want to get the thing done. More importantly, you won't do some things because you're afraid to mess up. That's what happens to me. Start easy and continue from there. Oh yeah, the fan thing. I read somewhere that the Starbird Deuce which the R/M model was originally designed from never had one. why, I don't know, but since this is a 3 n'1 kit, it should definitely be there. Good post, Don.

[88Proof]

Grandpa you are so right. I once read that in a national model car contest where thousands of entries were sent in. The Late Budd "the Kat" Anderson said when he started judging the models, the first round of eliminations was if the model had no windshield, out it went. If you can't put a basic thing in like a windshield, nothing else matters. This was when he worked for AMT in 1963. What won many contests in model railroad shows, is the details. Make a dip stick tube from a piece of 3/32 hollow aluminum tubing. The dip stick, a piece of soft steel wire that will fit inside the hole. Bend the one end of the dip stick around a 3/16 drill bit, then lay it sideways and flatten with a hammer. This will give the handle a pressed steel look yet let the round part slide in and out of the tube. Drill a hole in the block or oil pan and hold in place with 5 minute epoxy or Sho-Goo. Keith Scoviak. :)

[Don Garrett]

I'm in on that. I figure if a guy can put a killer paint job a 1:1 helmet he can certainly paint a 1/8 Deuce to the 'nth degree. Contest winner? Unfortunatly I've seen it happen. I try to look beyond the "eye candy" in a build. I don't really think that all models are given the credit they really deserve based on imagination, creativity and effort. Look at he photos I posted in the off topic section, That car was a basket case, real junk. The owner built the frame, engine, chopped the top, even the grille insert was hand fabricated from aluminum stock. The only fiberglass part on that car is the grille shell. Untold hours of work and determination. How would it stack up against one of Boyds cars? Best in show....not a chance. Is it a real Hot Rod....you bet!

[hot ford coupe]

I'm glad you brought up the subject of "eye candy". There is a phrase that I've heard a thousand times " If you can't make it right, make it bright". A dazzling paint job, a bunch of store bought photoetched parts and tons of chrome doesn't make it if you leave out essential details found on the real thing. I'm not talking about making the radio work or getting the engines to start. Like what's been said before, if you've detailed the engine and forgot the fuel lines or if you've done a chassis and you've left out the key suspension partws. Wires that end in the wrong place and hinges that are way out of proportion are sure fire contest killers. Also, I feel that scratchbuilding even if it's not totally perfect should win out over a store bought aftermarket part. That shows more advanced modeling skills. (Obviously if the scratchbuilding is poor, that's another thing altogether.)

I also don't agree with Mr Anderson that if a model has no windshield, out it goes. I've seen a number of old 1:1 rods like Don showed that didn't have a windshield. If you model a car like a Boyd build, then yes. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the modeler and the judge should relate the model to the 1:1 type subject it's trying to replicate. An old rat rod should have weathering and a lakester should be streamlined somehow. If the judge mixes that up, then the contest is not fair and the awards meaningless.

[88Proof]

I agree about the no windshield thing with you, some guys were disqualified for no windshield in a dirt car. Yet it had screen in place of it. I've never been to a dirt car race in the 60's or 70's and seen a windshield, by the way alot of great old cars ended up on dirt tracks, has anyone considered building a 3 or 5 window dirt car? I'm enjoying this forum more than I thought possible. I was going to sell off my 1/8th cars. Now I'm going to build more. Today at work I cut out and welded up a casket like the old 8 sided ones you see in old west movies. It's 15 inches long by 5 3/4 by 2 1/2 high. I made the top bigger than the bottom so it has some really cool shape to it. This is going to be a body for something I'm going to build. You guys are the best Keith Scoviak. :)

[Don Garrett]

Thanks for the kind words Keiths, I'm glad you are staying Bigville, you are an inspiration to the rest of us.

[88Proof]

I'm sure everyone knows what the Muscle Machines are you see in Walmart and Targets that come in different scales. Before I actually break down and buy one of these things could someone help me. The largest they make looks like the blowers and injection systems are close to 1/8, also are the rear mag wheels and tires close to 1/8th too. Thanks Keith Scoviak. :confused:

[hot ford coupe]

I'm glad you enjoy this forum Keith. I've been looking at your work in the gallery and I know you've got a great talent. How did you make the Kelsey Hayes wire wheels? If you could describe some of your weathering techniques it would be much appreciated. I'd love to see what you can do with that casket.

[88Proof]

The Kelsey Hayes wires were out of the Monogram Jaguar. I used either the chrome headlight lense from the big Duece or Lindberg Big T kit turned backwards, sanded and bare metal foiled. Let me get my notes out on how I weathered some of the cars I do. I will reply to this, I have no secrets, I hope the things I do can help and in return I hope you guys share your tricks with me and everyone else too. Keith Scoviak. :)

[hot ford coupe]

Thanks so much Keith. Thanks for the help on the weathering . I have no secrets either and am happy to share any technique I know. What I wanted to do here was to put together several tutorials on some of the things I've figured out complete with pictures and a "recipe". The only problem is there is only so much time in a day. Sooner or later though I get to everything. Some of the things I'm going to do are 1) How to make removable screw in -screw out spark plugs. 2) How to get an Alclad type shine with Testors Metalizers. and 3) a few things I can't even remember right now. :confused: :confused: :confused: . Give me time and I will remember.

[Don Garrett]

TIP: That little coil spring under the flint in a disposable lighter can be used as a throttle return spring, etc. Cut to the length you want and bend the ends. It's not a new idea nor can I take credit for it but the body of a Bic lighter makes a great scratchbuilt muffler.

[hot ford coupe]

Outstanding, Don. I've got a few dead Bic lighters around somewhere in my office. I hope they didn't throw them out. Thanks.

[ScaleMotorcars]

Heres the photos Kieth sent me of the casket. He asked for your honest opinions. I told him it looks great and alot like a 1913 Indan tank I nad to build once.



http://scalemotorcars.com/Quickstart...s_casket_2.jpg

http://scalemotorcars.com/Quickstart...s_casket_3.jpg

[hot ford coupe]

Honest opinions?? The Big Drag is beautiful. I love that color and the whitewalls. That can even be run on the street. The casket is also a wild idea. I wonder if it would be better with a cut in ****pit with some skull shifters, a skull suicide knob, some headlights and a drive train. If the car is not complete, then never mind. Still, you do some really great work. One question I do have is how did you weld the casket parts and how expensive is that kind of setup? I'd love to learn how to do that.