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The Builder
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Builder Last Online: Jun 2019
Model Scale: 1/8
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Started: 02-19-11
Build Revisions: Never
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Hey, I like shiny as much as the next guy. But I like rusted & busted, too. And if you're building a rat rod, shiny ain't gonna cut it.
The same technique I use for rust also works very well for adding surface texture to smooth parts. Cast iron and carpet look pretty similar when you get down to it. Your brain fills in the logical gaps based on context; a seat looks fluffy and a manifold looks hard even though they have exactly the same texture under the paint.
This is my secret weapon:
TowerHobbies.com | TOPR1090 Top Flite Microballoons Filler 8 oz
First, mask off the area you want textured:
Lay on a nice wet coat
, get out the Microballoons, and pour it on while the paint is wet.
Then paint again, a light coat this time.
And we've got a nice cast-iron manifold.
For nice fluffy seats, don't re-paint after adding the Microballoons. The Microballoons are microscopic glass beads, so they'll pick up whatever color is underneath. Notice the "cloth" seats and "hard plastic" cover on the seat back; they were painted the same color, from the same can.
Weathering
is a whole nother can of worms, but still uses Microballoons, mostly where you want heavy rust.
The RaTbucket has a very rough surface texture. I used flat black from a spray can, first a heavy coat to get the color, then a mist coat, held far away, to throw a little surface on it. You'll have to experiment to get a technique; you don't want to take painting advice from me as my technique is terrible. I hold the paint too close to the surface and move it too fast, but I get decent results because I've been doing it that way for 40 years.
There's also a very weak dark-gray wash applied. This makes the flat black look old.
Now for heavy rust:
It doesn't get much nastier than this. Make the actual holes from the back with a Dremel
sanding
drum. If you're working with
styrene
, let it cool off every few seconds as you want to grind the plastic rather than melt it.
Paint around the holes with red-brown and pour some Microballoons on while it's still wet. Then add flat red, flat black and flat orange. Don't let the paint dry between colors; you want them to bleed together.
At the top of the photo you'll see some "peeling paint" which is actually .005 styrene
.
This eggshell effect is achieved by painting over not-quite-cured epoxy
. Unpredictable.
There's a lot of texture/weathering going on here. And all of it is necessary.
Any questions?
The same technique I use for rust also works very well for adding surface texture to smooth parts. Cast iron and carpet look pretty similar when you get down to it. Your brain fills in the logical gaps based on context; a seat looks fluffy and a manifold looks hard even though they have exactly the same texture under the paint.
This is my secret weapon:
TowerHobbies.com | TOPR1090 Top Flite Microballoons Filler 8 oz
First, mask off the area you want textured:
Lay on a nice wet coat
, get out the Microballoons, and pour it on while the paint is wet.Then paint again, a light coat this time.
And we've got a nice cast-iron manifold.
For nice fluffy seats, don't re-paint after adding the Microballoons. The Microballoons are microscopic glass beads, so they'll pick up whatever color is underneath. Notice the "cloth" seats and "hard plastic" cover on the seat back; they were painted the same color, from the same can.
Weathering
is a whole nother can of worms, but still uses Microballoons, mostly where you want heavy rust.The RaTbucket has a very rough surface texture. I used flat black from a spray can, first a heavy coat to get the color, then a mist coat, held far away, to throw a little surface on it. You'll have to experiment to get a technique; you don't want to take painting advice from me as my technique is terrible. I hold the paint too close to the surface and move it too fast, but I get decent results because I've been doing it that way for 40 years.
There's also a very weak dark-gray wash applied. This makes the flat black look old.
Now for heavy rust:
It doesn't get much nastier than this. Make the actual holes from the back with a Dremel
sanding
drum. If you're working with
styrene
, let it cool off every few seconds as you want to grind the plastic rather than melt it.Paint around the holes with red-brown and pour some Microballoons on while it's still wet. Then add flat red, flat black and flat orange. Don't let the paint dry between colors; you want them to bleed together.
At the top of the photo you'll see some "peeling paint" which is actually .005 styrene
.This eggshell effect is achieved by painting over not-quite-cured epoxy
. Unpredictable.There's a lot of texture/weathering going on here. And all of it is necessary.
Any questions?
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QUOTE 
Originally Posted by Roger Zimmermann
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