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    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) hot ford coupe is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jun 2022 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 1
      Started: 07-19-07 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Since I’m still working on the interior of my deuce, there are a few things I’ll need to do with that first before I can finish the seats and the seat tutorial. While I’m doing that, I thought I’d stick in another tutorial that many of you might be interested in. For my Celebration Deuce, which I intended originally to build “box stock”, (you guys know me well enough now that I just can’t leave anything stock and have to fiddle with everything ), I was going to shoehorn in a 390 Caddy engine, but it was just too durn big. I’d wind up having to put the shifter in the trunk somewhere. Instead, I’m putting in a scratch built Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine 1949 Olds 303 cu. in. Rocket engine with the older style rocker covers and a shortened version of a t-10 tranny. I’ll go ahead and document this build and make it a tutorial on general engine building. Remember, it’s the building principles I intend to point out, not the specific details of a specific engine. That way, you’ll be able to scratch build Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine any engine you want.

      As with any complex scratch building project, you’ll need to start with a blue print so you’ll know where you’re going. Murphy’s Law dictates that whatever blueprint you’re looking for will be the least available either on the net or in a book. You’ll never find it, so you’ll have to make one yourself. I usually find my engine choice from one of the smaller 1/25 scale model kits. I get as many measurements as I can, convert the measurements to 1/8 scale and draw the parts on paper at 1/8 scale. I measure in millimeters so I can avoid all those fractions. I multiply my measurement by 25 and divide by 8 or just use the handy dandy SMC scale converter. From that, I make a styrene Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine template and save it. That way, I can duplicate the engine without having to re-measure the more complex parts each time. Usually that’s the front and back of the engine block. Most everything else is square, rectangular or triangular which makes building easier.




      I then use the template to outline my part on a sheet of Plastruct or Evergreen 3mm thick styrene Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine . The parts are cut out and rough trimmed.



      . To keep your engine from being built lopsided, the front and back pieces must be exactly the same size. I tape the two parts together and trim the pieces as if they’re one piece.





      You can see where the uneveness is.


      Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine
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  1. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    Sep 2005
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    5,953
    Hey Jeff...you may already know this one but I'll post it in case you don't. If you decide to make head gaskets (nice touch with all that detail)...grab some thin tooling foil (aluminum 'cause it's easier to work with than brass, about 36 ga.) and make a rubbing of the block surface. Stack up a couple pieces under the rubbing and cut, punch etc. all the holes for the water passages etc.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #32

  2. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I already have the materials for the gaskets. I have either real thin brass or tin sheeting that would work really nicely. Thanks for remindeing me. I almost forgot about the gaskets.

    I just wanted to make one correction. As I mentioned, the side bolock detail is a composite because I couldn't find a good picture. Well, as usual, last night I found the right picture and modified the detail. As soon as I get done doing the other side of the block, I'll show the corrected detail. You may wonder why I'm even bothering since most of the detail will be hidden by other parts and in shadows. Just knowing it's not correct and it's in there gives me the creeps.


    Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #33

  3. Tony's Avatar Active Member
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    Tony
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    Sep 2010
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    Great tutorial, look forward to seeing more done to this ,
    QUOTE QUOTE #34

  4. semijoe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    joe
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    May 2011
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    wow this is really detailed. cant wait to see the next step
    QUOTE QUOTE #35

  5. Ton's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Ton
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    Mar 2008
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    Wow....what kind of tools do you use?: just knife, ruler etc? The reason I ask is that I am not able to cut a straight piece of tube like you do........there are always a mm or so deviation
    Regards

    Ton
    QUOTE QUOTE #36

  6. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Daniel
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    Aug 2005
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    Jeff, Ill get this copied over to the articles area soon. Thanks again for this great tut...
    QUOTE QUOTE #37

  7. Dougritt's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Douglas
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    Dec 2010
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    Really cool engine...the valves peeking through are just plain sexy. Thanks for the step-by-step!

    Doug
    QUOTE QUOTE #38

  8. chuckster's Avatar Member
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    charles
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    Aug 2011
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    Very, very great!
    I do have a question . . . could you divert for a moment when you can, and elaborate
    in some detail about the "paint texturing"?
    I am new to this and have checked out you other thread on Metalizing and Painting
    the block but (call me dumb-dumb) need a bit more on the process.
    Hope to see more, and thanks!
    Chuckster
    QUOTE QUOTE #39

  9. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
    Name
    Jeffrey
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    Looks like I've been asleep at the bench and didn't see the last few posts. Sorry about that. I'll answer all those questions now.

    @Ton. When I cut the sections of tubing, I originally cut them with a razor saw in a small miter box I found at Hobby Lobby. I cut the sections longer than I need, cement them onto the block with liquid cement and let that set overnight. Then with a knife, a bur and sandsticks, I trim the tube down until it's what you see there. If I tried to cement the tube pieces if they were that thin, the cement would eat them up like potato chips.

    Thanks for the kind words, Doug.

    @Chuck. Painting the texture is a lot easier than it looks. There are two ways I do that. One way is to first use primer Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine over the bare plastic. Then, you can use one of the paints that simulate fabric and spray your engine color over that. The other way which is also easy is to first use your primer Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine but after the first good coat, spray your next couple of coats with the spray can further away from the block. That way you get more of an orange peel Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine look. If the coat still looks too smooth, spray again with the can or airbruch way back so that the paint almost dries before it hits the plastic. If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask me and I'll be happy to help you out.


    Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #40

  10. chuckster's Avatar Member
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    charles
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    Aug 2011
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    6
    Thanks that did clarify.
    I plan on doing some test painting, and checking out
    some of the texture paints.
    Both methods sound good with the results I've seen.
    I prefer to "spray and be done" kind thing (which makes me favor the texture paint way),
    instead of going back and sanding Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine after the far-back, "texture coat" of primer Scratch Building a 1/8 Scale Engine .
    Thanks a bunch!
    Chuckster
    QUOTE QUOTE #41

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