Two other options for removing chrome/paint

[hot ford coupe]

This is a really great tip, slingshot. The\anks for posting this. I usually use Easy Off oven cleaner with the blue cap. It will remove chrome well but it does a poor job on the clear coat unless I'm not leaving it long enough. The Easy Off with the yellow cap is way too corrosive and really tears up skin if you're not careful. Simple Green and Bleach White as you mentioned are much less corrosive and that's a huge advantage for me. I usually stay away from the Castrol Super clean for the same reason. Accidents happen too easily.

[slingshot]

I hear ya! After health problems last couple years along with multiple surgeries, I am very sensitive to a lot of the stuff. I do if not do well at all with the harsh chemicals. Even a lot of the cements and solvents we use in modeling really bothers me, I have finally gone to using mostly Testors glue in the blue tube. Once in awhile I will use the liquid glue. I read somewhere but can’t find the thread again or somebody mentioned Testors glue in a white tube??

In another thread you had mentioned cutting up plastic and melting it for putty , I have also tried that. You were looking for different glues, one that I tried that was pretty hot was Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, you can even hold parts tightly together and touch the edge with the brush and it will still go under the parts. It was a great glue, but the odor from it bothered me way too much. I remember an old article from a car model magazine where I first heard about making your own plastic goo, the guy was trying to replicate some instruments so he burnished some tin foil over the part, carefully lifted it off and then put some of the plastic goo in it (about twice as much as needed) and after it was dry he had a plastic part.

[Deuces-wild]

I had also thought about molding my own parts with scrap styrene and sculpy molds. I'm gonna have to give that one a try.

[slingshot]

I recently picked up some Sculpy to try the same thing, but I haven’t had a chance to use it yet. As a pretty good stuff? Any special techniques for using it?

[Don Garrett]

Did you get the extra firm compound?

[slingshot]

Umm, not sure. It’s all the hobby store had when I got it. Dark red box and the clay is white. Is there a big difference between the different kinds?

[Don Garrett]

The extra firm is gray and holds fine detail a lot better...being firmer it's easier to sculpt. The gray is easier to "see detail" and when cured is shatter and chip resistant. It sells for around 13 bucks for a lb. brick.

[slingshot]

That figures!! I haven’t even seen the gray stuff before, I will have to look for it when I place my next order. Is the white stuff any good? I was thinking about it for shaping some parts.

[Don Garrett]

Can't tell you much about the white clay...give it a try.

[hot ford coupe]

If it's too difficult to get the less firm Sculpey to carve well, then make the part as close as you can and carve and finish the piece after it's fully cured.