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The Builder
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Builder Last Online: Jun 2022
Model Scale: 1/8
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Started: 03-08-07
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The next big step in our instruction booklet is the initial stages of body construction. I'll be posting this chapter in 4 or 5 subchapters so you'll be able to work on some earlier steps while I complete the later ones. This will be a long tutorial and will take more time to complete the entire the whole process. So Here goes.
Subchapter 1 Opening doors
Ath this point we have a huge decision to make. Do we or do we not open the doors and trunk (boot for you guys over the big pond)? This decision is based on two main factors. Factor 1 is that the deuce is big enough that it demands these kind of working features and factor 2 is whether or not you think by opening the doors you'll get in over your head. For those that have no interest in opening doors, then keep an eye on this tutorial when it gets to the painting stage. If you feel up to the challenge which is not hard at all, then don't worry. I'll walk you through each step so your results will come out like they're supposed to. I suggest you read all the way through the subchapter before you start so you'll know what will come down the road and maybe change your minds to attemp these techniques.
The big challenge here is the clean up and corrections you'll need to do after you've separated the doors and trunk lid from the body. If you take a good look at the body, you'll notice that the panel lines on the inside of the body are about twice the width of the ones on the outside. When you cut them, you'll have jagged edges to clean up on both sides of your cut, which means that after you're done, your doors and lid may be significantly smaller than their cut out openings . That results in panel lines that are too wide and out of scale. In other words, your model will appear more toy like which is what we've been trying to avoid all along. We've mentioned this in a previous chapter and as promised, we'll take care of that problem in this chapter.
The door jamb detail is also all wrong. That means we'll need to make some relatively minor corrections with styrene
strips. The good thing is that the corrections won't compromise the
box stock
status of so it's not considered scratch building. The mods are pretty easy. Therefore, this tutorial is designed to introduce you to akking not just minor detailing like wires and labels, but the more advanced detail correction with some of the raw materials used in more advanced construction. Don't let this intimidate you or keep from trying these techniques. They're easy and if you make a boo boo, it's still correctible without having to get a new kit. Like I said before, ou won't get in over your head on this. Say goodbye to the world of kit building and say hello to the world of scale automotive replica engineering. After learning the techniques in this tutorial, you'll have come up to a new level of building.
The bery first thing I did was to get a number of pictures of what the doors and dor jambs look like on the real thing. You can't do what you don't know or haven't seen. Here are a few pics of the real deal.
Notice how the surfaces are stepped. We need to duplicate that. The next thing I did was to sand
the body and make sure there were no sink marks or defects especially around the panel lines.
That way, after the parts are cut, cleaned, modified and put back together later on, the parts will line up again evenly like the real thing. You'll be able to use your surfaces as positioning guides. I then used a razor was to cut along the panel lines to separate the parts but under no circumstance do I remove the sprue
down the center of the interior opening. Without that critical support, you'll run a huge risk of the bottom door bead distorting, bending and breaking in two. It's still a correctible situation but why look for trouble when you can avoid it. It will be removed later on.
I try to make my cut as close to the body side of the line so I get a better gluing
surface to add my modifications. I'll do the same thing when we cut out the trunk lid. As you can see from the research pic, the door edge has a stepped appearance. Also, you can see that the upholstered panel is much narrower than kit panel. The corresponding body door jamb actually comes out past the door opening so you have a better door stop. This is what your rear door edge looks like after it's just been cut away from the body.
Mark the edge of the door like in the next photo
and with a real sharp knife blade and light pressure, score into the pencil line over and over again until you get a definite edge.
Subchapter 1 Opening doors
Ath this point we have a huge decision to make. Do we or do we not open the doors and trunk (boot for you guys over the big pond)? This decision is based on two main factors. Factor 1 is that the deuce is big enough that it demands these kind of working features and factor 2 is whether or not you think by opening the doors you'll get in over your head. For those that have no interest in opening doors, then keep an eye on this tutorial when it gets to the painting stage. If you feel up to the challenge which is not hard at all, then don't worry. I'll walk you through each step so your results will come out like they're supposed to. I suggest you read all the way through the subchapter before you start so you'll know what will come down the road and maybe change your minds to attemp these techniques.
The big challenge here is the clean up and corrections you'll need to do after you've separated the doors and trunk lid from the body. If you take a good look at the body, you'll notice that the panel lines on the inside of the body are about twice the width of the ones on the outside. When you cut them, you'll have jagged edges to clean up on both sides of your cut, which means that after you're done, your doors and lid may be significantly smaller than their cut out openings . That results in panel lines that are too wide and out of scale. In other words, your model will appear more toy like which is what we've been trying to avoid all along. We've mentioned this in a previous chapter and as promised, we'll take care of that problem in this chapter.
The door jamb detail is also all wrong. That means we'll need to make some relatively minor corrections with styrene
strips. The good thing is that the corrections won't compromise the
box stock
status of so it's not considered scratch building. The mods are pretty easy. Therefore, this tutorial is designed to introduce you to akking not just minor detailing like wires and labels, but the more advanced detail correction with some of the raw materials used in more advanced construction. Don't let this intimidate you or keep from trying these techniques. They're easy and if you make a boo boo, it's still correctible without having to get a new kit. Like I said before, ou won't get in over your head on this. Say goodbye to the world of kit building and say hello to the world of scale automotive replica engineering. After learning the techniques in this tutorial, you'll have come up to a new level of building. The bery first thing I did was to get a number of pictures of what the doors and dor jambs look like on the real thing. You can't do what you don't know or haven't seen. Here are a few pics of the real deal.
Notice how the surfaces are stepped. We need to duplicate that. The next thing I did was to sand
the body and make sure there were no sink marks or defects especially around the panel lines.That way, after the parts are cut, cleaned, modified and put back together later on, the parts will line up again evenly like the real thing. You'll be able to use your surfaces as positioning guides. I then used a razor was to cut along the panel lines to separate the parts but under no circumstance do I remove the sprue
down the center of the interior opening. Without that critical support, you'll run a huge risk of the bottom door bead distorting, bending and breaking in two. It's still a correctible situation but why look for trouble when you can avoid it. It will be removed later on. I try to make my cut as close to the body side of the line so I get a better gluing
surface to add my modifications. I'll do the same thing when we cut out the trunk lid. As you can see from the research pic, the door edge has a stepped appearance. Also, you can see that the upholstered panel is much narrower than kit panel. The corresponding body door jamb actually comes out past the door opening so you have a better door stop. This is what your rear door edge looks like after it's just been cut away from the body.Mark the edge of the door like in the next photo
and with a real sharp knife blade and light pressure, score into the pencil line over and over again until you get a definite edge.
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