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The Builder
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Builder Last Online: Jun 2022
Model Scale: 1/8
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Started: 02-05-07
Build Revisions: Never
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Here's your second installment for the
box stock
deuce which from now on we'll call the B-deuce. I must make a correction from the last installment where I made a booboo. I said that you could start adding other parts while the main glue joint was setting so you wouldn't have to stop building, As of right now, you can't add any other parts until the block is painted, so I hope I haven't messed up anyone's work. If you have already glued parts to the unpainted block, don't worry. With some creative
masking
, it can be easily corrected. If you want to do something else while the glue sets, just start preparing your next parts for the nexts steps. This installment lets you know how.
Many of the parts that we'll need to add to the engine like the tranny, the oil pan, the exhaust and the cover that goes under the intake manifold must go through its own preparation before they can be added to the block which in many cases will involve dechroming so you don't have to worry about repairing the kit chrome. Rechroming and metal finishing will be discussed when we get to the painting step. As I was pa\reparing my own parts for painting, I discovered a large number of negative factors staring me in the face which if I neglected this whole tutorial would be a waste of good band width. In the last thread, we mentioned the defects we get when we tried to put the raw pieces together, but we also don't want to forget the defects that come with the individual parts themselves. Believe me, there are tons of them and they all significantly detract from our quality.
Many builders usually ask "what's the big deal? You'll never see it anyway". The main problems with that philosophy are 1) you'll never know you won't see it until you hae this glaring defect right in front of your eyes and then it's too late to correct it; 2)speaking for myself, if I become too selective with the defects,i.e. I'll fix this one but I'll ignore that one, I'll have a greater tendency to rush the work, get lazy and become sloppy missing other critical problems down the road; and 3) many of these uncorrected defects, when the parts are painted and polished or they're chrome parts, will give your model that unmistakable toy quality look that's the kiss of death to a museum quality model. The trouble is, you'll never know why. Don't forget that being incredibly picky with all these so called minor defects in the beginning will sharpen your eye along your progress as a modeler. After a while, you'll be able to pick up and correct the defects much more easily. You simply won't be able to leave them uncorrected.
The most common defects we all know are 1) the mold lines
, 2) the round raised cirlcles from mold marks, and of course 3)
flash
. We all have seen the correction methods for these defects on other model sites and that is to remove them and smooth out the part either with sandpaper, files or
scraping
with a knife blade, also called adzing used for gross material removal before finishing. Those however are not the only details we need to pay attention to and I'm finding all of them as I try to get through this build.
First is the sink mark or sink hole as I like to call it. These are usually found where the plastic changes from thin to thick and back to thin again. You can see this around where the locator pegs are, for example.
Here's the underside.
The reason for the sinking or better described as shrinkage is because hot
plastic shrinks as it cools and it always shrinks toward the area of greatest bulk or thickness. This is good to know also when you master parts for
casting
because
casting
resin
will do the same thing. hThere are two ways to correct this defect. One is to
sand
it out if it's relatively shallow and won't ruin your part. To see this defect better, take a plat rigid file or
sand
stick and lightly
sand
the area around the defect. If you have a sink hole, you'll see a shiny spot. When the shine is gone, so is your defect. The second method is used when you know you can't
sand
out the defect because it is too extensive or deep. Here, you fill it with your favorite material of choice. In my case, I use a
two part putty
because it doesn't shrink, it sets pretty quick and hard and is very smooth when you get done with it. Depending on the defect, I may even glue in pieces of
styrene
as a filler, but it has to set for a much longer time. I'll talk a bit more on
fillers
in an added post after this main part has been posted. Hang it there.
Our second defect is the distortion of the flat surfaces like we see with the Pontiac's oil pan. It comes from the same mechanism, plastic shrinking towards the corner edges of the part which are actually thicker. I removed the chrome from the pan and purposely left the yellow undercoating. I then took my rigid file and worked the entire surface. This is what I saw.
You can see where the high spots are and where the file never touched. If you don't correct this, your part won't reflect light like the real part giving it the toy look and worse, if you're polishing your part, you'll run a greater risk of sanding
right through the paint on the high spots leaving thin areas, exposed
primer
or worse, exposed plastic. This is particularly murder when you've just set down a gorgeous candy or transluscent
pearl
finish on the part or the body and your high spots show up much lighter than the rest of your part or you wind up with dark blotches. Just ask the guys who shoot candy finishes on real cars how this makes you feel. The correction for this defect is the same as the sink hole.
Sand
and/or fill the area. Then paint or metalize.
The third defect involves the edges of the parts Frequently they have a thin, sharp raised edge like this
This little stinker along with defect #2 really toys up the look. The edges are easily corrected by filing, sanding
or careful adzing and smoothing.
The fourth defect will be encountered later on in the build but will just briefly be mentioned here. One thing that can really throw off the eye is to have door, hood and trunk lines that are too wide.
deuce which from now on we'll call the B-deuce. I must make a correction from the last installment where I made a booboo. I said that you could start adding other parts while the main glue joint was setting so you wouldn't have to stop building, As of right now, you can't add any other parts until the block is painted, so I hope I haven't messed up anyone's work. If you have already glued parts to the unpainted block, don't worry. With some creative
masking
, it can be easily corrected. If you want to do something else while the glue sets, just start preparing your next parts for the nexts steps. This installment lets you know how. Many of the parts that we'll need to add to the engine like the tranny, the oil pan, the exhaust and the cover that goes under the intake manifold must go through its own preparation before they can be added to the block which in many cases will involve dechroming so you don't have to worry about repairing the kit chrome. Rechroming and metal finishing will be discussed when we get to the painting step. As I was pa\reparing my own parts for painting, I discovered a large number of negative factors staring me in the face which if I neglected this whole tutorial would be a waste of good band width. In the last thread, we mentioned the defects we get when we tried to put the raw pieces together, but we also don't want to forget the defects that come with the individual parts themselves. Believe me, there are tons of them and they all significantly detract from our quality.
Many builders usually ask "what's the big deal? You'll never see it anyway". The main problems with that philosophy are 1) you'll never know you won't see it until you hae this glaring defect right in front of your eyes and then it's too late to correct it; 2)speaking for myself, if I become too selective with the defects,i.e. I'll fix this one but I'll ignore that one, I'll have a greater tendency to rush the work, get lazy and become sloppy missing other critical problems down the road; and 3) many of these uncorrected defects, when the parts are painted and polished or they're chrome parts, will give your model that unmistakable toy quality look that's the kiss of death to a museum quality model. The trouble is, you'll never know why. Don't forget that being incredibly picky with all these so called minor defects in the beginning will sharpen your eye along your progress as a modeler. After a while, you'll be able to pick up and correct the defects much more easily. You simply won't be able to leave them uncorrected.
The most common defects we all know are 1) the mold lines
, 2) the round raised cirlcles from mold marks, and of course 3)
flash
. We all have seen the correction methods for these defects on other model sites and that is to remove them and smooth out the part either with sandpaper, files or
scraping
with a knife blade, also called adzing used for gross material removal before finishing. Those however are not the only details we need to pay attention to and I'm finding all of them as I try to get through this build. First is the sink mark or sink hole as I like to call it. These are usually found where the plastic changes from thin to thick and back to thin again. You can see this around where the locator pegs are, for example.
Here's the underside.
The reason for the sinking or better described as shrinkage is because hot
plastic shrinks as it cools and it always shrinks toward the area of greatest bulk or thickness. This is good to know also when you master parts for
casting
because
casting
resin
will do the same thing. hThere are two ways to correct this defect. One is to
sand
it out if it's relatively shallow and won't ruin your part. To see this defect better, take a plat rigid file or
sand
stick and lightly
sand
the area around the defect. If you have a sink hole, you'll see a shiny spot. When the shine is gone, so is your defect. The second method is used when you know you can't
sand
out the defect because it is too extensive or deep. Here, you fill it with your favorite material of choice. In my case, I use a
two part putty
because it doesn't shrink, it sets pretty quick and hard and is very smooth when you get done with it. Depending on the defect, I may even glue in pieces of
styrene
as a filler, but it has to set for a much longer time. I'll talk a bit more on
fillers
in an added post after this main part has been posted. Hang it there. Our second defect is the distortion of the flat surfaces like we see with the Pontiac's oil pan. It comes from the same mechanism, plastic shrinking towards the corner edges of the part which are actually thicker. I removed the chrome from the pan and purposely left the yellow undercoating. I then took my rigid file and worked the entire surface. This is what I saw.
You can see where the high spots are and where the file never touched. If you don't correct this, your part won't reflect light like the real part giving it the toy look and worse, if you're polishing your part, you'll run a greater risk of sanding
right through the paint on the high spots leaving thin areas, exposed
primer
or worse, exposed plastic. This is particularly murder when you've just set down a gorgeous candy or transluscent
pearl
finish on the part or the body and your high spots show up much lighter than the rest of your part or you wind up with dark blotches. Just ask the guys who shoot candy finishes on real cars how this makes you feel. The correction for this defect is the same as the sink hole.
Sand
and/or fill the area. Then paint or metalize. The third defect involves the edges of the parts Frequently they have a thin, sharp raised edge like this
This little stinker along with defect #2 really toys up the look. The edges are easily corrected by filing, sanding
or careful adzing and smoothing. The fourth defect will be encountered later on in the build but will just briefly be mentioned here. One thing that can really throw off the eye is to have door, hood and trunk lines that are too wide.
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