View Full Version : Ferrari Testarosa Engine

12-20-06, 05:21 PM
Got a little bored screwing around with the Deuce waiting for Dan's parts so decided to toss together the Pocher Ferrari Testarossa Engine kit I have had a while. It turned out to be a push together kit with limited detail so I have made a bid on eBay for the Scale Details trans-kit to see if I can’t add a little detail.

12-20-06, 08:11 PM

I bought the trans kit from Scale Details for my Ferrari. You won't be disappointed.


12-22-06, 12:31 PM
Scale Details off till after the first and they are out of the transkits till even later. Rick - do you have any pictures of your build? Any comments on areas I can get in trouble? There isn't much info on their site and the parts that are shown look pinhead size.

01-26-07, 05:34 PM
OK - Transit arrived last week. There is a lot of material to figure out how to use. The good thing is they bagged each batch of parts and labeled the bags with the Pocher part numbers as you can see in the picture. (Sorry it is so busy conveys a lot of information.) They also included a booklet of many of the actual engine manual drawings; a very nice feature but has nothing to do with the transkit.

The instructions consist of four type written sheets and a number of sheets of picture colleges one of which is shown in the picture. You are supposed to look on the picture pages to figure out what goes where. The smallest screws are really just very small straight pins. But there are many cast bolt sizes like those on this fan belt cover plus some excellent photo etch detail parts.

Just starting but the first problem I found was the brass cylinder that goes in the hole on the left of the fan belt cover. It is much smaller than the available hole as you might be able to see. I assume it must be held in place by gluing it to the crankcase behind the cover at final assembly?

Another detail I can see looking ahead is that the fuel lines are to be made up from a length of brass wire shown in the package. I guess I will have to do some tricky bending to run to each cylinder and the wire will have to poke into the fittings as cast into the model rather than brass fittings. The much more expensive Leggende e Passione kit (no longer in production) had these cast, bent and ganged into shape to fit with attachment fittings. About the time I get there I will probably be wishing I could find one and pay the extra price.

01-26-07, 05:41 PM
Below is a shot of the heads, a bolt tree and my new pin vice.

When I was doing my Bugatti engine I was talked out of replacing the 200 nuts with brass nuts. Now I know why. Hand drilling the holes for bolts is really tiresome. I started out with a standard pin vise and a fingerless glove to keep from boring a hole in my hand. Fortunately the ball-handled pin vice I had purchased for the job arrived right after starting. Day two of drilling holes my fingers were so sore I had to start using a regular glove. Is there a slow speed small drill press out there? I tried drilling some of the holes with my Dremel but at the slowest speed the drill still melted the plastic and pulled out much more material than wanted. Plus trying to pull the plastic off the bit was tough.

The transkit calls for cutting off the kit ignition wires then cutting off the plug caps and drilling small holes in the tiny attachment sleeves for new wire. If this could be accomplished the supplied replacement red wire would look nice but I fear I would not be able to accurately drill the proper hole into that small a piece of rubber. And if I did, I am not sure the wires would remain stable after my experience with the Corvette engine. The kit idea then is to use the cast wire holders shown to accurately mimic the real wiring layout. Right now I am leaning towards just leaving the kit wiring. Will have to see how things progress.

Don Garrett
01-26-07, 06:19 PM
Syd here's a tip that might help ya......as an example, say you want to drill holes for plug wires in a distributor cap. It's difficult to do without drilling through the sides or being off center. Here's what works for me...find a piece of tubing (brass or plastic) that just fits over the nipple on the cap, bout a half inch long, slip it over the nipple.....put a smaller piece of tubing inside the first piece and use it as a drilling jig to keep the hole straight and centered...that make sense?

01-26-07, 07:11 PM
Wow - that makes good sense. If I can find the right tubes I'm in!

01-26-07, 07:58 PM
Here's another tip of the day: Go to a hardware store and get yourself a rotory light dimmer switch to plug your dremel motor into. It works with the single speed dremels, but I'm not sure about the 5-speed ones. Dremel also has their own rotory box to dial the rpm's up or down. I just remembered I got one in my garage that I can use in my hobby room. gringrin Next on my list is a Dremel drill press. :)

01-26-07, 10:33 PM
Thanks - Dremel site says the speed control is discontinued but I found a number of them on eBay and ordered one. That should make a whale of a difference in drilling and other tools that melt the plastic!l:

01-26-07, 10:56 PM
Just a couple more pieces showing the variety of screw sizes for the transkit.

I was a little taken aback that you were to dig the instrruction details from the supplied picture pages I show at the beginning but I must say that I have only found a couple of areas where I needed extra help and they responded to my emails within hours and the further pictures supplied in their emails usually let me see what had to be done and when I went back to double check darned if I just hadn't looked close enough to the original pics.

01-27-07, 10:09 AM
who going to be first to put one of these engines in a deuce or T, now that would be a mean rod:mad:

hot ford coupe
01-27-07, 09:05 PM
Someone was putting a Ferrari engine into a deuce not that long ago. I haven't seen him or the car on the site for quite a while but it was called a Deucari under the title of Enzo's Revenge.

01-29-07, 01:09 AM
May have bit off more than I can chew.

I am not using the wire provied for the fuel lines as the transkits intention was to just get the fuel from the distribution unit to the the cylinders best way and I didn't think there was enough wire to try to copy the fuel line layout of the original car. Trouble is it is one thing to try to make a loom with right angles and tie it together and then it is another to try to finish the job by hooking into each cylinder air intake. I need to set this aside for a sec and maybe get some inspiration from you guys.

I will try Mario's way of drawing a plan in 3D to maybe do the lines better. I think then if I make the line input to the fuel distributor go in real deep it will capture the line and hold it while I fiddle with sticking the other end into the air intake holes, one of which you can see on the last air intake at the back. On the far side you can see a bank of air intakes to the cylinders. When in place it will sit lower into the cylinder holes.

hot ford coupe
01-29-07, 02:06 AM
As far as I'm concerned, that looks fantastic. I like the way you did it.

02-04-07, 11:19 AM
Thanks Deuces-wild for the suggestion of a foot control for the Dremel. Made all the difference. The Dremel is now a useful tool for plastic after all this time. Helped me finish the engine with many less blisters on my fingers.

02-04-07, 11:42 AM
I'm innocent I tell ya, I had nothin' to do with it!1confused1 That's a great build Syd. l:l:l:l:l: Iv'e seen some pics where this guy is building a mid-engined Deuce roadster. I'll try and find those and post them.

Don Garrett
02-04-07, 11:50 AM
1st class build Syd...way to go.

02-04-07, 12:34 PM
I've got a better idea.......put it in a street rod.


hot ford coupe
02-04-07, 12:41 PM
Looking really great Syd. Ain't technology wonderful? The Dremel really does make a big difference. I can't live without mine. In fact, I have two hanging rom the ceiling, one which I use as a general grinder with a foot pedal and the other locked into a vise as a lathe tool. If you can find it, it's worth getting as hold of the vari chuck. It's adjustable so you don't have to change the collets.