Pocher F40 question

[primi]

Hello everyone,

looking at all these transkits and extra detail that can be achieved... Do you think it is possible to retrofit these things on a finished model? I just happen to have a finished f40 that I assembled about 15 years ago and even though it is impressive there really shoud be more detail at this scale. As far as I can remember it was mostly screwed together, i don't remember using any glue. Do you think it is possible to take it apart completely? The transkits themselves are far from cheap and adding another new Pocher kit just makes it worse. Plus there is a chance something is wrong even in a new factory sealed box, because I remember that we had to open another box in the store to replace bad plastic parts, broken front windshield and poorly done paint job on the metal body from my kit.

Any information would be really helpful. Also, has any of you ever fitted a working lighting system on any of these models? I have seen some superb work on a few 1/18 model cars that looks like pure witchcraft if you ask me1wthe1with not just exterior lights but also every single button lighted with fiber optics as far as I can tell. Not that there are many buttons in an f40.

Regards,
P

[hot ford coupe]

Hey primi. That's a durn good question you have about taking the model apart. As for me, I've never built a Pocher kit so I can't answer that one. I know that one of our members by the name of Ton has build a beautiful version of the F40. He may be able to help you if you contact him.

[Ton]

Hi Primi,

I build the F40 with the Autograph transkit. I used a "Pocher out of the box" kit but it is definately possible to disassemble a Pocher F40 and use as a base for the transkit

Ton

[hot ford coupe]

Hey Ton, I just knew you'd come to the rescue. I couldn't help but think about that gorgeous F40.

[roger]

Hi primi

It is defiantly possible to disassemble and re build the F40 Kit.. you may need an original instruction booklet to put it back together but the Autograph instructions will help with that and its possible to download the old Pocher instructions.

I build these kits as a living for owners of the real cars and its becoming more and more difficult to obtain 'new', unopened kits. Sellers on ebay realize the value and they are selling for stupid money so most of the recent models I've built have been from old re built models.

Have a look at this site Maranello Miniatures (http://www.maranellominiatures.co.uk/workbench.html) for progress pictures using the Autograph trans kit... There is also a fair degree of scratch building involved, mainly because most cars i replicate are the later type with catalytic converters. The Pocher model is the early 'non cat' type..

Also bear in mind that if you're using the Autograph transkit it will be necessary to re-paint the body but thats a good thing as the original paint finish isn't exactly to scale.

Let me know if I can be of any help

[primi]

Thank you all for your replies. In this case I would definately need a profesional paint job done, i have tried but never liked the results. And it does need to be perfect. After some more research it does look like a HUGE job. So maybe an even more important question is, if I start it, can I finish it? Because I don't want to end up with a dissasebled and partialy rebuilt model in a box somewhere. Buying a second one looks a better alternative so I'm off to raising some (more) money....

....or I can start with my unbuilt testarossa engine and a transkit, to get the feel of it. But I'm not a huge fan of this engine.

P

[hot ford coupe]

Hey roger. Welcome to the site. I'm glad to see we have another pro builder here. I'd love to see some pictures of your work. It's just unfortunate that these great kits are being priced out of the range of the average builder.

[roger]

Thanks HFC... or 'just coupe? this is my site.. Maranello Miniatures (http://www.maranellominiatures.co.uk)

primi, if you're unsure about air brushing use an aerosol. Any automotive aerosol will be ok (preferably red :) )on that scale and finish with clear lacquer, again, use acrylic aerosols.. as many coats as you like.. let it cure and then polish. firstly with a cutting polish to get it smooth and then a resin for a deep shine. Its not hard to achieve a lustrous patina.. well ok, it is hard work but simple to do

[davidgovett]

I just so happens that I just finished the process of disassembling mine in preparation of the autographs f40 trans kit, due to arrive in a couple days.

It is doable but be prepared for some of the parts to break as you take them apart. The model is basically a snap tight so the parts really snap together well but very hard. In various parts, I found the pegs would snap and remain in the hole. Several engine parts for example did this. However, some CA glue will fix most of the problems. I have been able to recover some of the pins/pegs and CA glue them back to the part. Otherwise, CA glue will make them join some way. The tail lights were all destroyed in dis-assembly. I got some replacements from scale details.

I have all the parts organized in Zip lock bags by the step number in the assembly manual. Each bag is labeled and only the parts for that step are in the bag. I'm keeping everything until the model is finished and will then send anything I have left to scale details once I know it's not needed for the trans kit build.

The trans kit and scale details have replacement decals so you can get rid of the old ones as you dis-assemble the kit. You may need the decal set. It takes a long time to melt them and get them scraped off.

Start from the last assembly step and work your way back and stay organized.

Have fun.
Dave

[Ton]

I just so happens that I just finished the process of disassembling mine in preparation of the autographs f40 trans kit, due to arrive in a couple days.

It is doable but be prepared for some of the parts to break as you take them apart. The model is basically a snap tight so the parts really snap together well but very hard. In various parts, I found the pegs would snap and remain in the hole. Several engine parts for example did this. However, some CA glue will fix most of the problems. I have been able to recover some of the pins/pegs and CA glue them back to the part. Otherwise, CA glue will make them join some way. The tail lights were all destroyed in dis-assembly. I got some replacements from scale details.

I have all the parts organized in Zip lock bags by the step number in the assembly manual. Each bag is labeled and only the parts for that step are in the bag. I'm keeping everything until the model is finished and will then send anything I have left to scale details once I know it's not needed for the trans kit build.

The trans kit and scale details have replacement decals so you can get rid of the old ones as you dis-assemble the kit. You may need the decal set. It takes a long time to melt them and get them scraped off.

Start from the last assembly step and work your way back and stay organized.

Have fun.
Dave

Have fun with building this transkit, Dave.....and be sure you have some psychological support and a lot of tranquillizersgringrin This is a love/hate kit which is found on many shelves/corners of rooms and seldom finished 1gramps1 It is not that bad but you need a lot of time ( I build mine in about 650 hours) .

Ton

[roger]

'have to disagree with you Ton.

The Autograph transkit is a beautifully engineered kit and extremely well thought through. Everything is provided to construct a work of art from the tiniest screws (and drivers) to the cloth coverings for the dashboard and bulkhead. The perfectly etched parts fit precisely and no detail from the real car has been overlooked.
I have made seven of these models and each time I marvel at the amount of work that has gone into the production of such a transkit. Sure it takes time to do properly but where would the value in our work be if we could throw it together in 5 minutes.


As an aside Ton, any joy with the Promocom guy, Manzoni? I had no problems at all with the 126 C2, I made two of them and all the parts where there. My problem is I ordered and paid for the promised 312P 3 years ago and have yet to receive a sniff. I understand you posted all over the internet to get a reaction...any luck?

[Ton]

'have to disagree with you Ton.

No problem Roger gringrin


The perfectly etched parts fit precisely and no detail from the real car has been overlooked.

This is the love part of the kit 1thumbup1 I really enjoyed it but that was all! The hate part was the poor manual which shows about 50 percent of the steps to be taken and the rest you have to find out yourself. And the cloth for the dash etc was the wrong colour panty hose 1what1...I was not very impressed by that part of the kit. gringrin


My problem is I ordered and paid for the promised 312P 3 years ago and have yet to receive a sniff. I understand you posted all over the internet to get a reaction...any luck?

Ouch...that is a great loss .....compared to that my loss is a negligible factor. I posted on several forums to warn the community for this guy Manzoni...and your experience with him emphasizes the reason of this postings

Ton

[davidgovett]

"The hate part was the poor manual which shows about 50 percent of the steps to be taken and the rest you have to find out yourself"

I got mine in the mail yesterday and it looks great!. I will have to agree with the above quote though. The manual just leaves you hanging out to dry. The only hope of getting the thing assembled is referencing other people's build pictures that I found online as I work. If I can figure out how it goes together, I'll take some detailed pictures and put labels on things and see if I can create a better assembly manual myself and sell it for a healthy fee.

Cheers
Dave

[Ton]

The only hope of getting the thing assembled is referencing other people's build pictures that I found online as I work.

If I can be of some help just let me know :)

Ton

[davidgovett]

Thanks Ton. I'll take you up on it.

How about the shocks & springs. (step 2 & 3)

I take it you have to drill holes in the main metal shock parts and CA glue the pin into the holes? Is that the only thing holding the assembly together with the spring tension?
It mentions cutting the springs. Is that because there is too much tension in the springs as they are out of the box? Do we cut a little off each end or just one side?

Thanks for any advice you can offer. I'll have plenty of questions in the future.

Cheers
David Govett

[Ton]

Hi David,

The shocks are static and the they are assembled without any tension of the springs

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2010/05/95.jpg

Just drill the whole, insert the pin, cut the spring on one side, put the top parts on the pin and be sure that the "space between" is exactly 40mm for the front damper and 42 mm for the rear damper.

Ton

[primi]

1clap1 Just stopping by to say I'm taking notes as well, even though I haven't got the kit yet. gringrin

Primi

[Ton]

You are welcome Primi 1thumbup1

[davidgovett]

Thanks Ton.

I'll be back in a week or so with a progress report and pictures. (and more questions on the next step) Might even start a new thread.

Cheers
Dave