Pocher Lamborghini Aventador by Superfly [Scalemotorcars Archive]

superfly

01-17-14, 12:48 PM

Hey...This is not really a WIP...I'm just going to highlight some steps I'm taking in before I commit to a full build. I am waiting to see what aftermarket items become available and waiting for warmer temperatures.

Here's whats going on:
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I've got all the body parts ready to be stripped of paint..I'm not happy with the finish, there are already chipped paint on the edges, some of the metal needs to filed (rough edges) There is a scratch on the front clip. There are ejector pin marks that need to be filled..and some of the masking was a bit "wonky" in some places...Also I see contaminates that got on to the paint. Further more..the plastic parts are painted on one side only.

I want the car to be Matte Black (Nero Nemesis)..The paint has been ordered from Scale Finishes (4 bottles)

Airbrush:
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These are my weapons of choice...Iwata Micron C+...and Iwata HP-TR2. The trigger one will do most of the large parts and the other for the smaller parts and detailing

Paint stripping:
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Hopefully this will do the trick.

Textured paint:
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This is Valspar Make it Suede spray paint on Aoshima's 1/24 Aventador...I like the scale and texture .....great for the "heads" and airbox on the 1/8 Aventador...painted black of course. The can sprays even and fine and masks clean.

Finally the seat issue:

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Look how low the logo is on this one

That's it for now...

Mpfiend

01-17-14, 01:51 PM

Renato, I'll be following your progress.That figure looks very nice indeed.Best RegardsKeith.

Blacklion213

01-17-14, 04:29 PM

If you ask me: make it a full WIP thread. I'm sure that many members would love to follow your work step by step. 1thumbup1

Blacklion213

01-17-14, 04:35 PM

Textured paint:

This is Valspar Make it Suede spray paint on Aoshima's 1/24 Aventador...I like the scale and texture .....great for the "heads" and airbox on the 1/8 Aventador...painted black of course. The can sprays even and fine and masks clean.

That paint looks awesome. Where did you find it?

I looked for "Valspar Make it Suede" on google but all it came up with was "Valspar Brushed Suede". There's no mention of a Suede Spray on the Valspar homepage, either.

I would greatly appreciate a link or some info where you purchased it.

STARK

01-17-14, 05:01 PM

I am excited to follow your WIP. Great that you finally started a thread. Shame you won't be getting right on with it due to weather and transkit but will be worth the wait.

Dave J

01-17-14, 06:05 PM

I will be watching for sure! Interested to hear more about that scale paint... Do you apply any varnish over the top once painted?

superfly

01-17-14, 06:34 PM

Valspar may have called differently here...I haven't painted or cleared over suede paint yet...but its durable...I painted those parts a year ago...they been tossed around in the box loose.

Krylon also makes a different STONE effect spray paint...this one was much finer than the one we've seen.
It might work 1/8 too...if you can't get the suede.

Its called Krylon Natural Stone

STARK

01-17-14, 06:56 PM

Is there a substitute for Castrol Super Clean? It is not available here in NZ.

superfly

01-17-14, 10:37 PM

Sorry Stark..Im not sure if they go buy any other name but Super Clean....its sold as degreaser.

superfly

01-17-14, 10:59 PM

A quick update on the paint stripping:

This powder coat paint is extremely difficult to take off..The Super Clean did not take it off!
I manage to find this product GOOF OFF -Graffiti Remover.

Results:
Goof Off Graffiti Remover slowly strips layer by layer of paint....it is safe on metal BUT NOT ON PLASTIC! (will harm most plastics)
I had good results stripping the metal door but it takes time. I manage to get right down to the bare metal...
In better (warmer) temperatures I'm sure it will work quicker...my garage is around -1C.
Also on the next pieces i will used scotch brite pads to rough the paint up so the stripper penetrates better.

I had to stop because I'm not set up properly for this stuff (Goof Off)
I will need gloves, mask and safety goggles....plus scotch brite pads, steel brush and large foil trays to put the parts in.
The plastic bins might melt.

As far as the plastic painted parts...I will have to scotch brite them and just prime over it...then paint.
Unless i find one that safe on plastics.....the Super Clean didn't take the paint off these either!
I noticed that some off the parts are painted black..eg. the rims...but again....paint on the one side.

This is going to take time but it will get done.

Jo NZ

01-18-14, 04:07 PM

Try Simple Green on the plastics - it strips acrylic, enamel and lacquer paints (roughen up the surface on lacquers first) and doesn't attack plastic.

superfly

01-19-14, 07:15 AM

Jo...I will definitely try Simple Green on the plastics..

Update:

Stripping the metal body parts are coming along nicely...slowly..but definitely getting to the raw metal..
Should have some pics up by tomorrow.
Its very messy..you definitely need a respirator and thick gloves...I used cheap foil roasting pans (3 pans) to catch all the stripped paint...covered them over with a garabage bag while its doing its thing.
After i just throw out all the trays....no cleaning

superfly

01-22-14, 11:18 AM

Small Update:
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Some minor areas which need filing in the front clip area...(seam line) Ejector pin marks need filling and sanding.
Its taking longer to strip the monocoque and the back half...the weather has dropped to -20C.

I haven't found anything to strip the plastic parts yet...Super Clean...and Simple Green...hasn't budged it.
This paint is bomb proof!!

I've tried stripping a sample of their chrome plating and that too is difficult!
I might have to e-mail Pocher and find out what paint and process did they use.

I'll continue with the rest of the metal parts...for now.

Guiddy

01-22-14, 11:37 AM

Very useful to know, it's a nice clean finish.
I'll be wet polishing my Pocher paintwork this week and if that goes wrong mine will also soon look like yours!

Jo NZ

01-22-14, 01:22 PM

Have you tried bleach on the chrome?

superfly

01-22-14, 03:59 PM

Jo will try bleach on my scrap piece from the Pocher sprue. also windex

SVtrackhead

01-22-14, 08:56 PM

Those photos make me want to strip one, polish the body, and seal it with clear lacquer.

PS: I haven't had a chance to start one and look at the embossed headrests, but if I find one that is better than yours I'll swap with you.

superfly

01-22-14, 09:03 PM

Those photos make me want to strip one, polish the body, and seal it with clear lacquer.

Haha...I thought about it too....I would paint the plastics to mimic that raw steel look.....put racing seats also ''unpainted"...

superfly

01-29-14, 10:31 PM

Got some new textured paint in black....i will post pics when i do a test paint....Looks like it will be great for the airbox and "heads"

I got it at Lowes.....Tremclad Texture (black)

superfly

01-31-14, 11:57 AM

Slow going:

I managed to do some more of the paint stripping...Not 100%....One more session and all the metal parts should be done.
Some minor issues...The rear window frame (part of the fire wall)...is thinner metal...and I noticed that its a bit warped...the main body is so heavy that you shouldn't handle it by the firewall..I will straighten that out later and check it with the rear window glass. Some rough edges that need a bit of filing.
Another issue...... My right-hand door...The inside frame where the door skins will attach....is a gap!....It wasn't seated properly and "welded" as is.....not sure how I'm going to fix it..
Got a paint sample of the Textured paint by Tremclad...tested on a plastic spoon.
Also got a turn-table or "lazy-susan" from Ikea $10...useful for Painting, Sculpting...or Photography.

Here are some pics:
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Warped firewall:
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Gap in door frame:

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Tremclad Textured paint in black...dries with a satin finish: This paint dries quickly and can withstand rather rough handling...the texture is fine but not as fine as the Suede......FYI....I'm finding out that the hardware stores have discontinued selling the Suede texture paint.

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Finally the "Lazy-Susan turntable from Ikea:

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Until next time....

I am expecting this fine velvet paper that I ordered last week..I will post pics as soon as I get them and we shall see how its looks as interior carpeting.

Ton

01-31-14, 12:21 PM

Gap in door frame:

I think it is solved when the parts are repainted. The millimeter gap will probably be filled with primer and paint than.

superfly

01-31-14, 01:18 PM

Yes!..I fixed the gap on the door!
There was a metal locating pin on the frame but the hole was not in the right location...they didn't line up..... causing a gap!
I used a micro saw to cut the pin off... and sneak a file in and file away the nub. Then I cut a strip of 180 grit sandpaper and finished off the rest....NO MORE GAP!

I was worried this gap will haunt me later in the build.

Here's the pics:

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I might just use metal epoxy glue....and glue from the back...or might torch weld it!

darprog52

02-01-14, 01:33 PM

Did you manage to strip the paint off the plastic body pieces? If not, I read in another forum that Easy Off oven cleaner also works and doesn't damage the plastic. The person that recommended it used it to strip the paint off an old model that he wanted to do over with a new paint job. I haven't tried it on painted plastic but did strip the paint off a Maisto diecast model I'm going to repaint.
Nice work so far!

superfly

02-01-14, 02:19 PM

Hello darprog,

I have not had the chance to strip the plastic or chrome pieces as of yet....successfully.... The metal pieces had taken longer than I expected...I think its the extreme cold weather that is slowled the process down..
I intended to e-mail Pocher directly and ask what type of paint did they use and what I can use to safely strip it.
I've used Easy-off oven cleaner in the past..I can give that a try.
I've used bleach before to strip chrome as well.

Regards,

Renato

superfly

02-06-14, 08:40 AM

This body kit looks very nice....I would like to see a transkit like this...

Vorsteiner Lamborghini Aventador-V LP-740 2014 ~ AUTOKAVLA (http://autokavla.blogspot.ca/2013/11/vorsteiner-lamborghini-aventador-v-lp.html)

CitroenTA

02-06-14, 09:45 AM

superfly

02-07-14, 12:14 PM

I was just playin' around with some ideas.:

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This is very crude... I only did one side....I didn't measure anything and I am using plain paper...I just wanted to see how it would look.

I'll look into it more at a later date..Once I figure out the geometry and the final look..I'll mock it up with cardstock paper...then use those to transfer to plastic sheets....the side skirts are really simple and I think there is an extended rear splitter too...The fixed wing....will be stock kit's wing...I'll order a second one when it becomes available.

Oh...I might paint the glass pieces of the engine cover and decal it in carbon fiber...

Ton

02-07-14, 02:00 PM

Looks very nice this first Aventador scratch build!

superfly

02-07-14, 02:12 PM

Thanks Ton

superfly

02-08-14, 02:52 PM

Ok...got the basic shape of the front splitter down in thin plastic sheet..I will laminate this to make it a bit thicker and stronger...
Also more pieces to add..

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superfly

02-08-14, 04:26 PM

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I managed to laminate a second layer of plastic sheet... making the base of the splitter the right thickness.

CitroenTA

02-09-14, 02:11 AM

Exellent workmanship. Keep it going. 1clap1

superfly

02-09-14, 04:26 PM

I finally received the velveteen paper that I ordered:

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I got these from Simply Special Crafts and comes in a variety of colors.
3 pcs. 8.50" X 11.00" $5.39US
I ordered the Midnight Black Velveteen and the Charcoal Velvet Suede Paper.

The paper is very thin and the "plush" is very fine...You can use this for 1/24, 1/12, 1/16, 1/8 scale cars.
It does not shed or flake off...and the plush is dense....so you can't see the paper underneath.

This is great for the floor carpets, headliners and floor mats...and inexpensive for those who are building mostly OOB.

Blacklion213

02-15-14, 02:37 AM

That Velveteen paper looks awesome. At least on your pics. I ordered two sheets of the black and midnight black paper at simplyspecialcrafts.com immediately. Thanks for the tip.

Strange: no shipping costs for shipping to Germany.

superfly

02-15-14, 07:59 AM

Your welcome Lutz..

roymattblack

02-15-14, 02:31 PM

Love the car but can't see the relevance of the figure.....

Roy.

Ton

02-15-14, 04:31 PM

Love the car but can't see the relevance of the figure.....

Roy.

I think Superfly forgot to upload all these picture to his album. That is why they are shown in the posting. As long as they are not uploaded you cannot delete them. With the new system of repeating the first post you will have to wait until 20+ pictures are downloaded 1gramps1

superfly

02-15-14, 06:00 PM

Hi Roy and Ton....I wanted to delete the figure photos to make scrolling down to new posts easier.....The figure is a project I'm currently working on...until I get transkits,paints, rims and wheels for the Aventador...I didn't think that the first post will show at the beginning of every page at the time....so it can get tedious and confusing..I've tried to edit the first post to make it simpler but it didn't work.

Ton...Can you delete the post from the figure down...and all the other picture below that???

Ton

02-15-14, 07:37 PM

Ton...Can you delete the post from the figure down...and all the other picture below that???

I can't .... If you upload the pictures to your album than they are part of your posting. allthough the pictures are shown in your posting they are not part of it and they are in the cue waiting for an upload to your albums.

superfly

02-15-14, 09:38 PM

I can't .... If you upload the pictures to your album than they are part of your posting. allthough the pictures are shown in your posting they are not part of it and they are in the cue waiting for an upload to your albums.

Thank you Ton...I managed to edit the first post..

Ton

02-16-14, 04:39 AM

Thanks Superfly ! You made it readable now!

superfly

02-16-14, 05:21 PM

Today's update:
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I cut away parts of the steering wheel....this is so i can put stitching on the inside.
I used micro-razors from RB productions
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This allowed me to cut very close without losing any material.....

Next I marked the inside the steering wheel parts and drilled holes using #80 drill bit in a pin vise. Then I used fine wire and placed in the holes in an X-pattern.
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The result:
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I not sure I like I like then end result...It was very difficult to keep the "stitches" the same sized.and I had to make them bigger in scale ..than on the real car.
I might just remove them...and paint the stitches on....that way I have better control and also I can make them more to scale.

On a side note:

I finally received my paint from Scale Finishes....4 bottles of Nero Nemesis
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tommaso_iuele

02-17-14, 02:22 AM

looks great superfly (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/members/superfly.html), finally result will be fabulous. T.1thumbup1

SVtrackhead

02-17-14, 02:14 PM

Superfly, I like the way you think, but I agree the stitching on the steering wheel is so fine that it's almost impossible to replicate well in scale. The seats, on the other hand gringrin. [stay tuned]

superfly

02-17-14, 02:33 PM

Oh...Brady!.......Do I smell freshly cast resin? LOL

SVtrackhead

02-17-14, 05:58 PM

nope, just needle and thread.

SVtrackhead

02-19-14, 11:41 AM

25892
Not bad, but not sure it's worth the effort. Evenly spaced stitches are hard, even with the molded guides, but my wife will be bringing home a suture kit with small curved needles that may make things easier.

roymattblack

02-19-14, 01:33 PM

Looks nice, but will it be neat and tidy enough overall to look 'good enough'?
I say this with all respect, but any super-detailing that looks 'not as good' as the part without it, seems a bit of a no-hoper.
So far, the 'paint-and-wipe' method look the best by far.

Roy.

SVtrackhead

02-19-14, 01:43 PM

superfly

02-19-14, 03:43 PM

that looks excellent Brady....I was looking into getting sutures...awhile back....perhaps using a straight needle to pre-punch the holes from the outside-in...would help with alignment?...If the seats were made of resin...one could use a rivet wheel to make the stitches...airplane modellers use this to put rivets on panels on their planes....this might work on the dashboard...then fill in with paint?

SVtrackhead

02-19-14, 04:15 PM

Speaking of the dashboard, even if I get the seats to look right, getting matching stitches in the hard dashboard and console plastic pieces will be a struggle.

PS Renato: the 2.6mm taps are here, an email newsletter will go out early tomorrow with details.

superfly

02-19-14, 04:44 PM

thanks Brady

roymattblack

02-20-14, 03:42 AM

Agree on all counts, but having it look right and be real stitching would be the ultimate victory, even if the time involved makes no sense. gringrin

Filling the recesses with paint is the cleanest and most consistent look so far, but is still not to scale in width or stitch spacing. When the seats are viewed at an appropriate distance and from outside the car, real stitching wins for me, even if slightly uneven. I'll let you know how the suture kit works, hopefully will result in less blood on my thumbs at a minimum.
25893
I take your points there, but if paint looks out of scale, surely even very fine thread will look like thick string stitches in 1/8 scale?
To keep the scale aspect, your stitches will need to be about 0.5mm long, and the thickness of a few hairs.
I don't see how it's possible to get a good result.
Again, all kudos for trying.

Roy.

superfly

02-20-14, 08:41 AM

Roy...where there is a will...there's a way.

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This is a perforate cutting wheel...used in off-set presses. Its about as close as you can get to stitching!...I actually had one with finer teeth...to exact scale...but the stitches are so close that it just looked like one continuous line...so its a compromise.
I will probably grind a sewing needle to a flat head shape to match.... to get at tighter areas....or find a micro flathead screwdriver and modify it.

Then fill in with paint like the seats....If I can fill in the seats stitches...then I'll do the seats as well...I've read that you can use filler on PVC....this way ALL the stitches will be the same size.

superfly

02-20-14, 08:52 AM

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Here it is embossed on cheap foil....looks great and looks like real stitches..but might be difficult to glue to seats and dash...

I just rolled the perf wheel by hand....I can bring the stitch lines closer than that.....this is just a demonstration.

superfly

02-27-14, 08:11 AM

Small Update: Its been slow going....I wanted to lay down some stitches on the dash but the part needs some work!

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There is a huge low-spot on the instrument panel and some low spots on the top of the dash. The glove box also needs to have the lower part scribed into the panel....(its missing)

The steering wheel:

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I'm abandoning the stitching on the steering wheel for carbon fiber...I like this better...but I might change the perforated leather to suede. I'll have to order some carbon fiber decals.

That's all for a while..I'll be away for a couple weeks.

Hopefully I can push through this area and get back to the front custom splitter and side skirts!

superfly

03-07-14, 03:56 PM

I forgot to mention...The dashboard air vents (center ones)...are missing the adjustment wheels that change airflow.
They molded them on the far left/right ones....This is on right-side drive dashboard.....I haven't checked the left-side drive dash.

Egon

03-07-14, 06:25 PM

Fine idea with the gearwheel, but I think the space betwin the stitches are to large, I see no space betwin the real thing, stitches go up and down in the same hole.
Could you run it twice in the same line so it make a second print betwin first run. --------
Perhaps a gearwheel that make the holes on a red line .............

superfly

03-07-14, 11:08 PM

Hi Egon...I can get a Perf. wheel which is closer spaced together...but when I tested it....it was so close... that it looked like one continuous line...so I had compromise...I think this one mimics what Pocher did with the seats....Looking at the real dash...there are spaces between the stitches...

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Another builder on this forum was able to put stitching on his 1/12 scale steering wheel...which looks very convincing...
It was done as a decal.

That would be another way of doing the stitches...but I don't know anyone...who will make them for me....
Besides this way mimics the seat's stitching...giving the whole interior a uniform look.

Again another option...Would be to drill tiny wholes through the entire length of the dash...and put real stitching..using a fine needle and thread.....but scale would be an issue....

Another option:
26241 Veneno Roadster.

Forget the stitching....and put down some piping instead!

Ton

03-08-14, 05:01 AM

maybe this one might help 1gramps1

26243

superfly

03-08-14, 06:52 AM

Haha... nice one Ton.....he1he

PNG77

03-08-14, 10:08 AM

26245I have had some reasonable results with a rivet wheel,, need to deepen the rivets more but think it looks good.

paul

superfly

03-08-14, 11:13 AM

Paul...It's looking really good....Did you use Dymo tape as a straight edge to roll the rivet wheel against?
I'm using dymo tape to help scribe the part lines (in the leather) on the dash and center console..I think I have a pick of the early stages of this process...I'll post. Then I'll put the "stitching" line above and below the part lines....when I get back.

superfly

03-08-14, 11:44 AM

Here's some pics,

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I scribed the detail on the both ends of the dashboard...these have part lines on the real car.

Here's the Dymo tape;
I grabbed the one that was too thin...but it worked anyway...the thicker tape would've worked even better!

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Oh I forgot to mention:

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I scribed the bottom line of the glove box....it was missing...And it is noticeable when the model is complete and the doors are opened.

Also notice...the glove box is also missing the key hole..a simple drilled hole and some copper or brass rod....or you can just scribe a circle.

OR.......Tommaso might have already made a photo-etch for this.....but I'm not sure.

tommaso_iuele

03-08-14, 01:45 PM