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AirB
01-14-14, 08:00 AM
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Hallo everybody, i am started my Aventador.

First i started with the engine, i remove and closed the holes for the screws.
Then i try to make (i say i try) a new support for the pulley's and the alternator,
because the support from the kit is pure fantasy, and this is one of the few things you see from the motor once installed.

Cheers,
Rudy

superfly
01-14-14, 10:09 AM
Wow...Rudy...Now that's model building!...I see a top on your differential too....
Do you have drawings of the pulley support? Very well done!

Blacklion213
01-14-14, 01:36 PM
Amazing work, without a doubt! But I wonder if all the detail will be visible underneath all these covers?

AirB
01-14-14, 03:51 PM
Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini Parts Diagrams: Model = (http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=LA&V=model&I=88)
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@ Superfly: you find the parts manual on that link.
@Blacklion 213: you're right but the pulley support is visible.

Thank you for the support

CitroenTA
01-15-14, 11:32 AM
Exellent working. 1thumbup1

darprog52
02-01-14, 03:22 PM
Great detail work! Thanks for the link to the parts manual site.

tunedbysaturnsl1
02-02-14, 10:01 AM
Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini Parts Diagrams: Model = (http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=LA&V=model&I=88)
2526225263
@ Superfly: you find the parts manual on that link.
@Blacklion 213: you're right but the pulley support is visible.

Thank you for the support

Oh my, that website link is a good find! Could come in quite handy for those future transkit manufacturers.

AirB
02-03-14, 09:20 AM
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Keep going with the Aventador, but now the dirty work.
Because i notice a difference in color between the metal and plastic parts,
the metal parts have a greyish tint and not so shiny as the plastic parts, and
you can't remove the seems on the plastic parts.
That's why i take all the paint off with a paint remover, and i can tell you
it's a dirty job, but the result is good, so why complaint.

superfly
02-03-14, 09:40 AM
Great job AirB...I know exactly what you had to go through!..Will you be painting it a different color?....This is your chance to fix any problems with the body parts...I found some issue hiding under the paint.
Will you be stripping the plastics as well? If you do....please let me know what you use...I haven't tired anything that worked.

I intend to take off all the paint and chrome off ALL the parts and start from "ground zero".


Renato

AirB
02-03-14, 10:23 AM
Hi Renato, it looks that we have the same idea about the kit, it's a good base to start with.
But when you start from "ground zero"you can do more with it, you can remove the seems and other inperfections hidden under the thick layer of paint especially on the metal parts.
The paint remover i use is a product from Polyfilla and calls "Extreme paint remover" but i think you can only buy it in
Belgium (where i live).
I leave the paint on the plastic parts just sand it with very fine abrasive paper and water, i don't think it is necessary to remove the paint, just break the gloss.
The plan is to make a yellow one (giallo evros from Zero paint) with a black interior

superfly
02-03-14, 10:28 AM
Excellent choice!..I shall do the same with my plastics ...I can't wait to see your your finished paint....It will be better than from the factory.

AirB
02-03-14, 02:20 PM
I hope so, there is so much that can go wrong.
Modelbuilding is my hobby for more then 45 years, and every model is a challenge,
that's why building models is so great.

AirB
02-06-14, 07:39 AM
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Almost everything is painted with Mr Surfacer 1200.
No difficulties with the plastic parts, in the afternoon i spray the parts that remains.
After this i start to work on the engine.

superfly
02-06-14, 09:46 PM
Excellent work! Are you going to "carbon fiber" the door sills, wing, engine shroud, and front bonnet shroud? and heat shield part of the firewall?.....am I jumping too far ahead??? lol

3.Star
02-06-14, 11:20 PM
Sorry just to call you Air B,
fitting problems coming up? Or just a comfortable built?
Cheers
Michael

HighEnder
02-07-14, 04:13 AM
Hi superfly,
it seems to me that we both have the same idea about the future look of the Aventador.gringrin
Oakley Design Aventador | Lambloghini (http://www.lambloghini.com/oakley-design-aventador/)
However I still do not know which color I should take.

superfly
02-07-14, 09:58 AM
HighEnder...Have you started a build thread?..I'm sure you will find just the right color.

Official: Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 Picture and Information Thread! - Teamspeed.com

Go to the last page on this link......Baby Blue Aventador driving in the rain! beautiful picture! and the red coupe with black roadster rims!!!!!!


Alot of excellent pictures I really like the white roadster escorted by storm troopers on page 312!
(http://teamspeed.com/forums/aventador-huracan-murcielago-gallardo/55605-official-lamborghini-aventador-lp-700-4-picture-information-thread.html)

HighEnder
02-07-14, 10:38 AM
Renato,
no I did not started, yet. As long as my seat issue is not solved I do not want to start.
For me the composition of the interior and exterior color with the mix of carbon is key. I also intend to use real leather for the interior of the roadster. But it so not decided, yet.

AirB
02-07-14, 01:15 PM
Sorry just to call you Air B,
fitting problems coming up? Or just a comfortable built?
Cheers
Michael

For the moment, i have no complaints about the fitting of the parts, it builds very smooth.
I just begun with spray painting the engine, and ordered the paint for the body (giallo evros)

AirB
02-24-14, 06:13 AM
Some new pics of the build.
I hope you enjoy them.260852608626087

26088

hefrancis1
02-24-14, 02:08 PM
could you sent the part number for the top section of the Rear Differential (T-05)
it would appear that i do not have this part and would need to order from Pocher ASAP

AirB
02-24-14, 02:21 PM
could you sent the part number for the top section of the Rear Differential (T-05)
it would appear that i do not have this part and would need to order from Pocher ASAP

Sorry to inform you, that the top section of the rear differential is not a part of the kit., the differential is such a difficult piece to replicate, that i close it with some plastic sheet.
The only thing you could see when closing are the rubber dustcaps.

WINGS
02-24-14, 06:06 PM
Your project is looking to be a true museum quality masterpiece!!! Beautiful attention to the details...1nworthy11thumbup1

AirB
03-06-14, 05:49 AM
I can tell everybody who needs the spare parts service of Pocher, they are great and very fast.
One of the led lights, is now one with the interior of my living room, so i ordered some spare led lights
on monday and where delivered by normal post on thursday, and free from postage costs.
I like to give the spare parts service a five star rating. 1thumbup11thumbup11thumbup11thumbup11thumbup1

AirB
03-19-14, 08:10 AM
some pictures from the engine until now, i hope someone like's them.
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Guiddy
03-20-14, 06:44 PM
Amazing work! Each time I look I see something beyond box stock. How did you add detail to the air box trunking?
Can't believe I didn't think to wire up the power steering fluid resevoir.
The harness looks great with the foil around it.
Will you wire up the dry sump system?

AirB
03-21-14, 08:01 AM
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Thank you for the kind reaction Guiddy, i do the airbox trunks with some evergreen strips, if i find decent pictures of the dry sump system i try to wired it up.
But it's a little pity, that once closed off with the body you see so little of the internal details.

I hope that you like the pics.

Rudy

reach67
03-21-14, 11:38 AM
Great work!!! Love all the out of the box thinking you've been putting into it. What did you use to wrap the ends of the braided wrap around the exhaust connection? And, since I'm a novice at this, where did you get the small nuts for the ends of the small braided lines plumbing the engine? I have no clue as to where to search for those tiny blue and red anodized hose fittings I see being used for pressure lines. Thank you very much for your pictures. Amazing work!!

AirB
03-21-14, 01:23 PM
KNUPFER Modell- und Feinwerktechnik (http://www.knupfer-grossbahn.de/)

That's a very fine website with a lot of small bolts and nuts, the red and blue anodised hose fittings can you order by a German company "Autograph".
Another shop, and i believe it's in the U.S.A is "Scale hardware" fo rsmall nuts and bolts.
The braided wrap came from a flexible waterhose to connect watertaps and toilets, it's a rubber hose with fine inox weaven around, and looks like a braided wrap, maybe a little overscale, but i had no other idea to reliplicate this.

I hope i help you with this, and thans for the reaction.

Rudy

3.Star
03-21-14, 06:59 PM
Air B mentioned great sources. I'd like to add the fittings of RB Motion (http://www.rbmotion.com) as well. He is doing a great job in scale (also anodized) fittings and has always an open ear to modeller's needs. Please dont'see it as an add, but I just can recommend the products and use them as much I can.

Cheers
Michael

reach67
03-21-14, 11:54 PM
Thank you both very much! This is of great help!!

AirB
04-02-14, 08:42 AM
A little update of the progress i made on the Aventador, everything is painted in giallo Evros from
Zero Paint.
Working now on the interior, which is almost ready.

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superfly
04-02-14, 11:40 AM
Very nice color AirB...How many bottles of the zero paint did you use? Are they 1 oz or 2 oz bottles? Also can you please tell us how many bottles of clear coat you end up using?

Oh and the radio head unit detail looks real.

AirB
04-02-14, 12:43 PM
Very nice color AirB...How many bottles of the zero paint did you use? Are they 1 oz or 2 oz bottles? Also can you please tell us how many bottles of clear coat you end up using?

Oh and the radio head unit detail looks real.

Hi Superfly,

I use almost three bottles (2 oz), now i have enough left to use, if something happen when i put the
parts go together, i hope i don't need it but you never know.

The radio and cd player head is very easy to replicate, it was more difficult to find good pics of it, because
the most of the pics are with dark shadows of the dashboard.

Thank you for the reaction.

Cheers,
Rudy

reach67
04-02-14, 10:58 PM
May I ask how you duplicated the cd player?

AirB
04-03-14, 05:41 AM
May I ask how you duplicated the cd player?

First look for some good pictures, not easy because the most pictures are with heavy dark shadows .
Make an rectangular hole in the side of the transmission tunnel.
Then i try to replicate the cd player with some plastic sheet as backing plate ( a little bit larger than the rectangular hole you made) and Evergreen strip with afterwards some sanding and the cd player is ready.
Paint it flat black and glue it on the back of the hole you made.
It's very easy and quick to build. i hope you get something on this explanation.

reach67
04-03-14, 11:26 AM
Yes! Thank you very much!

superfly
04-03-14, 03:05 PM
Strange...people still use CD/DVD's?...lol....I might just delete mine.

AirB
04-30-14, 11:55 AM
1confused1I like to warn everybody who want to change the color of the Aventador, i have serious problems with the plastic parts.
Not the plastic but the parts painted in my case orange, because i noticed a difference between the metal and plastic parts,
i want to change the color from orange to yellow.
As mentioned before in this thread i remove the paint from the metal parts and sand the plastic parts.
I spray everything with a coat Mister Surfacer 1000, i thinned the primer with thinner and let it harden for almost two weeks,
after i sanded the primer with 600 grain sanding paper.
So far so good, because i want yellow i ordered Zero Paints giallo Evros and also from Zero their white primer.
When the paint arrives i spray some coats of white primer (because Mister Surfacer is gray) and so far so good and no sign
of problems.
I let the white primer harden for a couple of weeks, before i spray the yellow and the problems starts, the original paint on
the plastic parts begin to wrinkle, not everywhere but on some spots.
When dry and hard i sanded the spots and respray with the two primers and the yellow base paint, and it looks ok to me.
On some parts like the mirrors i sanded straight to the bare plastic.
I let the paint hardened out for 3 weeks, before i spray painted some coats of Clearcoat lacquer also from Zero paints on the model and let it dry for more than a month, this week i started to sand the whole body with grain 1000 wet sanding paper
and started in a good mood to spray the last coats of clearcoat, and disaster the Pocher paint underneath starts again to wrinkle.
The solvent of the clearcoat go to 4 coats of paint and starts again to soften.
This is my story, maybe a little long, to avoid problems is it maybe wise to leave the Pocher color or remove the paint on the plastic parts.
This is not a case for a suicide attempt (it is still a hobby) but for this moment i am a little discourage.

spinellid82
04-30-14, 02:03 PM
Air, I understand your frustration completely! I on more then one occasion have had to sand from final clear coat back down to bare material. As big of a pain as it is I ALWAYS remove all existing paint from a project now and then I always stick with one brand of paint from beginning to end, primer, color and clear.

Sorry to hear of your trouble but don't let it get you in the pants. Fix it, and forge on my friend!

mad mike
05-01-14, 06:30 AM
Hello AirB,

sorry to hear about the paint problems you have. I know those too, though not on the Aventador, and I haven't seen them for a while because I switched completely to 2-component paints when it comes to painting car bodies. Maybe trying a 2k primer or filler would help in your case? This stuff is basically a plastic coating. I think that Pocher used 2k clear coat on the Aventador, so painting directly on that with a little sanding would maybe work too, but since you already removed it...

Flyboy47
05-01-14, 07:46 AM
Let me see if I have this sorted...

To repaint the metal, best to go back to bare metal and prep and paint as normal.

To paint the plastic...????


Are the plastic parts painted??..
I thought that was the way it came out of the mould!!
How far back do you need to "sand" to get a good surface which will not cause problems??
Is the problem being caused by "mould release agent"?? 1confused1

As always ANY info is very much appreciated
AND, as always this site is a mine of great info 1nworthy1
Thanks everyone
cheers
Pete

superfly
05-01-14, 09:41 AM
Its sounds like a reaction between the primers and the zero paint. Is your primer enamel and zero paint lacquer?

Try spraying a plastic spoon with the same 2 primers and then the zero paints..as you did before....if you get the same result....its reacting with each other.....if not.....it might be the pocher's factory paint...At least you can try to isolate the problem....without damaging your parts

And yes the plastic body parts and rims are painted.

AirB
05-01-14, 08:09 PM
Thank you guys for the support and the advice, the problem is i believe, i sanded through the varnish coat of Pocher.
The reaction was visible 5 or 10 minutes after i finish the paint job, the solvent of the Zero clearcoat go through the other layers of paint and starts to react, i don't have no other explanation (it is not the first model i paint that way, and without problems).
I don't understand why Pocher use metal and plastic for the body, ok. normally who's having the idea to respray the body?

I have a little bit the feeling that i am beating on the last straight line before the finish, but these things happen and i don't let
my head hang down and starts after some weeks again with sanding until the bare plastic and spray it again.
That's why i like to ask you guys keep your thumbs up for me, i surely appreciate it.

Mathieu
05-09-14, 10:20 AM
I found a way to get rid of the paint on the plastic parts... not easy, but definitly working: Carson's Paint Killer.
You will have to rub hard at the beginning to break the clearcoat, but once you're there you will be able to go down to bare plastic.

Also, I don't know which zero clearcoat you are using (2k or the normal one), but I saw many forum postings stating issues with the "normal" one (like here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234913073-zero-clear-varnish-oh-dear/).

I want to re-spray mine in orange too (I found the paint quality on some parts a little poor), and also ordered the complete zero paint collection (primer, color + clearcoat). But I am thinking about using another clear (like the one from Alclad) over the zero paint. I will make some tests over the plastic parts and tell you what happens.

AirB
05-14-14, 05:09 AM
Hi Mathieu, i use the normal clearcoat from Zero ( not the 2K )
My experience with the clearcoat from Allclad is that after some handling the coat become
sticky, the body temperature of your hands softens the paint, with fingerprints as result.
So my advice to you, try the clearcoat first on something else than your model.

To get off the paint demons of the Aventador i am starting now with another automobile icon
a 2 cv Charleston who came in parts from deAgostini and i have enough to build the chassis,
the suspension and the engine, and is getting fine together, a fine kit.

AirB
05-28-14, 11:19 AM
I am taking the bull back by the horns and starting on the Aventador.
26639
The paint devil.

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CitroenTA
05-28-14, 11:37 AM
Nice color.

superfly
05-28-14, 05:39 PM
The paint looks flawless....and amazing photography...great work.
Are those MMC's replacement tires? Or are they the kit's tires?

AirB
05-29-14, 04:31 AM
The paint looks flawless....and amazing photography...great work.
Are those MMC's replacement tires? Or are they the kit's tires?

These are the kit tires, sanded, with a light coat of pastels.

AMG
05-31-14, 04:13 AM
Rudy, what size needle did you use to airbrush the Lambo? And was it with a spray gun or an airbrush?

AirB
05-31-14, 02:41 PM
Hi Rob, the model was painted with an old Paasche H single action airbrush, and i use a NR. 5 nozzle wich give a wider sprayhook for larger surfaces.

enzo288
06-09-14, 09:11 AM
I've decided buy a kit from Autograph for the braided hoses but I can't seem to find a who carries the black rubber tubing that you've used so extensively. Any help pointing me right direction to get some of that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and thanks for sharing pictures of your beautiful model.

AMG
06-09-14, 11:58 AM
Thick oil lines can be simulated with the single copper core 220Volt wiring you find in the walls in your house. I found smaller diameter tubing on www.12bead.com/stringing-material/rubber-cord (http://www.12bead.com/stringing-material/rubber-cord). Its a Dutch website, have no idea whether they would ship out to you but the webshop may give you an idea to find something locally.
Shrink tubing may also be an idea but you'll probably want to 'strengthen' it with soldering wire as it will buckle when in tight bends.

AirB
06-09-14, 12:44 PM
To Jamie, i have the tubing i use for some years now, but if you look at Hiroboy.com, Scale Motorsport or the Model Car Garage,
these guys sells a lot of useful stuff to use.
Or maybe your local hobby shop or train shop, normally a train shop sells lots of wires in different useful measures and colors.
Another method is the one that Rob told, solder wire they exist in many different sizes, and if you don't want to paint them, put
the solder wire in some shrinking tube, the tube is also in different colors and sizes.
I've made the wiring harness of the Aventador from soft solid aluminium with shrinking tube around, wrap Tamiya tape around it
for the wrapped effect and spray it with flat black paint.
Thank you also for the kind comments.

enzo288
06-09-14, 01:49 PM
Thanks AirB and AMG.

Flyboy47
06-09-14, 08:27 PM
I am in the same situation....Looking for wire to use around the engine...
I did get some of the wire from Scale Motorsport, but it's a bit expensive to my mind.
Your local electronics store should have a load of different cable, some of which should be solid core. 1 or 2 dollars a yard/metre.
If you can find a cable with solid core wires with different color coatings you are off and running. Computer cable should probably be around the right scale.
Getting the wires attached at various points is a problem.
The only way I can think of is to drill holes and insert wire, but I am loathe to start drilling holes in something that no-one is probably ever going to see.
The wire can be bent to any shape and will hold position...holding it in the desired position at bends and the like seems problematic...to me at least!!

But...All you can see in the engine bay is the top of the intake...!!!
My build is currently on hold while I make a decision one way or the other.
Looking at all the photos and trying to decide where to run wires is confusing to say the least.
cheers

AMG
06-11-14, 03:33 PM
It's not that you don't see it, it' the satisfaction you get when you do add wiring. The journey is what counts not the destination.
YOU know what you did and that's what counts!

roymattblack
06-12-14, 04:32 AM
It's not that you don't see it, it' the satisfaction you get when you do add wiring. The journey is what counts not the destination.
YOU know what you did and that's what counts!

Completely agree.....
I've built umpteen model cars and added ridiculous amounts of wiring and plumbing that is never seen.
I know it's there though.

Come to that, once this big car is built, 6 months down the line and it's sitting on a shelf or in a cabinet/case, how often will even the builder 'open it up' to look at all the detail that took umpteen hours to add?

It doesn't matter. It's the build that's the fun - not the end model.
That is just the RESULT of all the fun.

Roy.

Flyboy47
06-12-14, 11:20 AM
No argument from me....I agree 100%...
I just can't decide where to draw the line...
I guess I don't know my capabilities until I try.
But on the other hand, I don't want to find out on a $1,000 kit.
We shall see where it ends up
I guess it's like the saying goes...you don't know where your limits are until you try
I got quite a bit of confidence by building the first Aventador to my liking.
We shall see how this one goes now that I am more demanding and want a more realistic looking model
cheers

AirB
06-13-14, 09:30 AM
It is not easy where to draw the line when adding extra detail, but sometimes you spend much time
on detailing and you never see a thing when the model is finished.
It's the fun of adding the details, and it's up to you where to draw the line, it's the fun of building that counts.
If somebody builds a model straight out the box and is happy with the result, who i am i to condemn that, if
he is happy, i am happy to, it is just a matter of decision and skills.1thumbup11thumbup11thumbup1

AMG
06-13-14, 10:03 AM
@Pete - I understand your apprehension. I draw the line at painting the outer shell as I don't have the correct tools (bigger airbrush and compressor) nor the right skills yet to attempt that. So I'm practicing on 35 yr old faded BBuragos instead. I'd never really scratch built before but now that we have the internet, it's amazing the stuff you can find out how to do or what to use.
Heatshielding - cigarette packs or tin foil from margarine tubs - you name it and it's useful.

I ordered the Lambo DVD from bay and am using that excellent guide to take me down the path of creating my very own Lambo. It's slow progress but INCREDIBLE fun.
I've also ordered his additional decal set but I did carpeting myself.

Flyboy47
06-13-14, 09:20 PM
Thanks Guys, I agree...It's all a personal journey and totally depends on your own perceived skill level and patience.
I have already completed the orange Lambo pretty much oob.
This time I have the white one and am personalizing to a large degree.
I want to repaint, but am nervous as once you start you can't go back!!!!!
I have Pauls DVD and decal set and also some bits from Scalemotorsport.

This one will take a lot longer to complete as I am also working on a Tamiya F16 1/32 diorama at the same time.
Hopefully my skill levels in model building will improve.
If you don't try you don't learn
cheers

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