Better seats for the Pocher Lamborghini

[HighEnder]

Dear community,

after reading all the threads of the Pocher Lamborghini I was happy to hear that there will be some improvements regarding the tyres. Hope that Model Motorcars (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/Model+Motorcars/) will provide very realistic typres.
However one big thing is still open in my point of view.The rubber seats. I do not know why Pocher has chosen that material for the seats. In the forum there is a very good explanation for modelling the seats with leather and foam. Would be very hard for me to do in the 1st time. One thing is missing. The stiching in bi-colour. I added a picture from Amalgam.
25072
Does anybody now how they might do the stiching? Transfer with a photo etched master?
Can anybody help?
Is there anybody who will provide resin build seats?

[Val33]

I have to say, I am very impressed with the kit supplied seats. To my eyes they replicate leather very very well, with the added bonus that they 'feel' right.

I'm sure that if you were very careful you could add coloured stitching.

Val

[roymattblack]

It will probably take an age, but I'm going to do my coloured stitching using a gell pen...

Roy.

[Ton]

Markus, ein ganz kleiner Pinsel gringrin

[HighEnder]

Hi Ton,

this was my first idea, also (brush or pen). As Roy mentioned - this method will last for ages and you will see every difference in painting.
Then I thought about a very thin leather where I want to do the stitching with a sewing machine. But this might cause some defects when I will pull the leather in the desired form.

But there must be another way. When you look to the Amalgam picture I think the color is sprayed over a kind of flexible texture. Originally I thought about photo etching. But that seems not flexible enough for me. My plan is to use an airbrush over this „texture“

Any ideas?

[superfly]

I think the stitching is a bit large in scale....I was thinking of using surgical suture and sewing the stitch on the rubber seats...

I really hope someone can cast them in resin....it would make painting two-tones much easier and easier to match other interior pieces...

[roymattblack]

Apparently you can paint rubber quite successfully using liquid latex, with acrylic paint mixed in to colour it.
You can thin it with water for spraying.

Roy.

[3.Star]

Don't think that covering the seats with leather will be really an improvement. Shapes are really complex, so I am waiting for the crazy guy doing it perfect, to change my opinion. 25073Have to do this white and black interior for a customer and will try my luck in drybrushing the stitching.

[Tourpretendent]

I've zoomed in on the picture of the Amalgam seat, than it looks like a very small decal with yellow dots on it.

Amalgam also seems to have created a suede kind of interior mixed with carbon, to replicate suede I use flour.

Regards, Ronald

[HighEnder]

Your customer has exactly the same preference like me. I've selected the same seat combination. Unfortunately I have to stay with a model and not with a real one.
25074
The more I look at the pictures form amalgam the more I think that these stitches are decals. And from my point of view this is the only economic (ration between time and result) solution. The black stichting in the middle will not be shown.
Michael J. what do think about that approach?

[HighEnder]

Hi Ronald,

I think we both had the same idea at the same time. But you were faster in the net.
Thank you. I think that is the solution, I was looking for.

Regards, Markus

[Cobra 56]

Take some paint in the color, you want for the stitches, thin it a ittle with turpentine, and use a fine brush to pant over the stitches.
let it dry 30 seconds. Then wipe the paint carafully away with a turpentine cloth. Then wipe over again with a dry cloth, and let the paint dry. It takes some time to do each seat, but it is the paitience and the work worth. I did mine in orange, and it looks wonderfull.

[HighEnder]

Hi Arne,

I think your method will work with the original provided seats, only.
I saw the molds you described. Could you please provide a picture?
I believe you colored the inner seat in orange as well.
Did you use a primer?
Which type of color you have used? Acryl or enamel?
Would be very helpful for me.

[tommaso_iuele]

Hi All
Amalgam makes their own decals for stitches. Having the 3d design of the objects....the final decal follows the shape easly.... After applying decals, a matte clear coat for plastic or rubber is apllied which blends for the final look. As per Cobra 56 make sure you use a product that dosen't damage rubber or plastic. I use trichlorethylene which dosent not damage plastic or rubber as long you wipe it fast. Ask an laundry ... they use this stuff for dry wash. Hope this helps.
Tks

[HighEnder]

Hi tommaso,

thank you for your explanation. What about your transfer kit. Will it includes new seats, as well?

Best regards Markus

[Cobra 56]

Hi Markus
First i used Revell email color nr.30 without primer. On the last seat i had no more Revell paint. Then i mixed Tamiya red and yellow acrylic waterbased paint together. It dryed wery fast, and it looked like this paint worked well with the Pocher seats
I am not sure about i will paint the inner seat yet, but i will try, to paint some of the back of the seat, with my Tamiya mixture, and let it dry till tomorrow. Then i will post the result, and post a Picture of the seat. Tomaso turpentine and also celluose thinner seems not to damage the rubber, if you wipe it off quickly. I used both to wipe the paint not used off, no damage on my seats.

Best regards Arne

[Ton]

Maybe this could be a solution: 3d resin decals.

Archer Surface Details (http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html)
You could paint and apply them like normal water decals

Here is a how-to video


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aptnvFeEqio

[tommaso_iuele]

Hi tommaso,

thank you for your explanation. What about your transfer kit. Will it includes new seats, as well?

Best regards Markus

havent decided yet, like I said before there will be 2 directions, depending on demand.
1 Basic- for those that don't want to invest too much money
2 Pro - similar to autograph levels

tks1thumbup1

[HighEnder]

Maybe this could be a solution: 3d resin decals.

Archer Surface Details (http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html)
You could paint and apply them like normal water decals

Here is a how-to video


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aptnvFeEqio

Hi Ton,

Thank you for your hint. Interesting alternative to enhance your model with 3D effects.

[3.Star]

There are also some photo-etched stitchings available by Eduard. Thought for 1/32 scale airplanes, but may work for 1/8 scale cars, too.

Cheers
Michael

[Cobra 56]

As i promissed the result of my attemp to paint the stitches of the seats. The Tamya acrylic waterbased paint works very well, easy to use and easy to wipe off. The paint dryes wery fast and it works very fine with the rubber. Because the use of Water, no damage of the seats. I am wery happy with the result, looks great and wery realistic. The whole work, took about 4 hours.

Seat Stitching Pocher Lamborghini Painted - ScaleMotorcars.com Members Gallery (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/20126/title/seat-stitching-pocher-lamborghini-painted/cat/520)

[superfly]

Wow that is impressive...great workmanship!

[HighEnder]

Very good result. Fantastic. Looks really great.

[Ton]

Very well done, Arne! What time did you need to finish a seat?

[CitroenTA]

Those seats are looking really good. 1thumbup1

[tunedbysaturnsl1]

Stitching effect looks amazing! One of these days when I'm lucky enough (money-wise) to get one of the kits, I'll be attempting that myself.

[Cobra 56]

Thank you. I am happy you like the seats. "What time did you need to finish a seat?" It took about 2 hours to finish each seat.

[roymattblack]

For the Muppets among us, could you explain 'exactly' how you did it please????

Roy.

[GLDFNGRS]

For the Muppets among us, could you explain 'exactly' how you did it please????

Roy.

Probably much patience and dry brush technique.

Load the brush tip with paint, wipe off the exces in a rag, paint a few stiches and start over, and over, and over...

Looks very convincing.

Marc

[HighEnder]

For the Muppets among us, could you explain 'exactly' how you did it please????

Roy.

Hi Roymattblack
Cobra 56 described the procedure in Post #12 in this thread. It looks very simple but it seems you need a lot of patience.

[Cobra 56]

For the Muppets among us, could you explain 'exactly' how you did it please????

I will try to explain.

Step one : Select the color you want. I used Tamya acrylic paint waterbased.
Step two: Find two pieces of cloth, and a little fine brush, and i also used magnifying glases, magnifying 5 times.
Step tree: Thin the paint a little, not to mutch, consistence like milk.
Step four: Paint the stitches one row about five centimeter, for the americans about 2 inches. Let the paint dry about five seconds.
Step five: Wipe the paint off with a cloth, dipped in not too hot Water.
Step six: Wipe over again, with the dry cloth, and then repeat the process with all stitches, and after about two hours of work, on each seat, the work is finished.
The rest is, patience, skills and many years of modelbuilding experience. Good luck to you, who want to try my method.

[Ton]

Step four: Paint the stitches one row about five centimeter, for the americans about 2 inches. Let the paint dry about five seconds.
Step five: Wipe the paint off with a cloth, dipped in not too hot (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/hot/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/hot/) Water.
Step six: Wipe over again, with the dry cloth, and then repeat the process with all stitches, and after about two

Interesting, but can you explain why you: 4) paint, 5) wipe off 6) paint again.

[superfly]

I think the stitches are recessed...so your filling the stitches in with paint...and wiping off the excess...giving the stitch a nice clean line....you paint again to slowly build it up. Your wipe off the excess off the seat where you don't want the paint.

[Ton]

That will be the reason! But when I think of a stitching I am thinking of a raise.gringrin

[Cobra 56]

Exactly explained superfly. 1thumbup1

[Mathieu]

Great tip! I will also use it on mine!
Just a small modification that I found this afternoon: I use just one cloth with isopropanol (some kind of alcool that is normally used to remove glue from sticky part). Works like a charm.

[superfly]

Do these solvents leave a dull film on the rubber seats...or make the seats brittle or cracked?...

[Cobra 56]

Do these solvents leave a dull film on the rubber seats...or make the seats brittle or cracked?.

I tryed turpentine celluose thinner and isopropyl alcohol. I think that´s the same Mathieu used. No damage of any kind to see on the seats. Also no color change to see, brighter or darker, where you wiped off the excess paint, to be found or seen.

[Ton]

I tryed turpentine celluose thinner (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/thinner/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/thinner/) and isopropyl alcohol (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/alcohol/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/alcohol/)

If you use Tamiya paint you can simply use (warm) water

[CitroenTA]

If we can paint the stitches with this method so maybe we can paint two tone seats as well.

[Cobra 56]

To awoid mistakes. first i used Revell paint oilbased. To wipe the excess paint off i used turpentine and tried celluose thinner. No harm or damage on the seat. On the last seat i run out of Revell orange paint. Wery annoying on a saturday. What to do. Luckily
i had a red and a yellow Tamiya waterbased paint. Mix them together, and you get an orange color. To wipe of the excess paint i used warm water. If you want to do two tone seats, i recommend use Tamiya waterbased paint. It sticks to the rubber, and is wery scratch resistent.

[CitroenTA]

Thank you Arne, I'll try that when I start to build the model. 1thumbup1

[DRZOOM68]

To awoid mistakes. first i used Revell paint oilbased. To wipe the excess paint off i used tupentine and tried celluose thinner. No harm or damage on the seat. On the last seat i run out of Revel orange paint. Wery annoying on a saturday. What to do. Luckily
i had a red and a yellow Tamiya waterbased paint. Mix them together, and you get an orange color. To wipe of the excess paint i used warm Water. If you want to do two tone seats, i recommend use Tamiya waterbased paint. It sticks to the rubber, and is wery scratch resistent.

Hi Arne, I used Tamiya paint from a spray can and that paint would not dry on the seats.

[CitroenTA]

Hi Arne, I used Tamiya paint from a spray can and that paint would not dry on the seats.
Are the spray can paints also waterbased?

[Cobra 56]

I used Tamiya (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/Tamiya/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/Tamiya/) paint from a spray can and that paint would not dry on the seats. What kind of Tamiya spraypaint did you use ?.
If it´s oilbased, it could be the reason, the paint won´t dry. As i recommended, use Tamiya waterbased paint with a brush. I tried it on the back of the seat, when assembled it is not seen. Try to rescue the seats, scrubbing the paint off with an old toothbrush with turpentine. and wash over with hot soapwater. Let it dry, and paint the seats as mentioned above. The Revell paint i used before i ran out of it, i used it only in the stitches because they are lowered, and it´s a wery little paint used to emphazise the stitches.
Good luck with rescuing your seats, i hope you succeed with it.

[Mathieu]

If we can paint the stitches with this method so maybe we can paint two tone seats as well.

I don't think this is gonna work at all. The main problem that you will face is that the acrylic paint will turn into flakes when the rubber will humm... "move": The acrylic paints/primers/varnishes are not designed to be used on flexible parts.
-> For small parts like the stitches, you can still do it with acrylic, as it is not a very large area.

[Cobra 56]

Try Tamiya waterbased paint under or on the back of the seat. Let it dry the night over, and see the result. I did that, and it seamed to work well. It dryed and bonded wery well, on the rubber, so i think it will work.

[3.Star]

Tried some paints with solvents on the material. Nitrous will cause defects. Enamel paints aren't really drying out.
My recommendation goes for water based acrylics. Some plastic priming can prevent the chemical reaction as well.

Cheers
Michael

[superfly]

how about using artist oil paints?

[3.Star]

Haven't tried them already, but worrying about them drying out, or solving the surface. Every expirience is welcome, cause I got no more than six seats right now. Are there any knowings how to order replacements via Pocher, when things turn out wrong?

Cheers
Michael

[Ton]

I remember from the Pocher Porsche 911 that the seats ( with enamel of acrylic paint) remained always sticky. I hope they did not use the same "rubber"

[superfly]

Haven't tried them already, but worrying about them drying out, or solving the surface. Every expirience is welcome, cause I got no more than six seats right now. Are there any knowings how to order replacements via Pocher, when things turn out wrong?

Cheers
Michael

I hope so....I heard another builder commenting on the waterslide decal...a couple of them rubbed off while putting the dash in place...and the metal transfer "Lamborghini" script for the rear is unforgiving...so if you put it on a slant...you can't fix it without destroying it....

[Val33]

Correct on the Script, I destroyed the dashboard one when fitting the dash. Once its messed up, its bin fodder. I've ordered the ebay set, hopefully one will be the right size for the dash.

[DRZOOM68]

The best way to attach the metal transfer is to dip them first in hot water as a water decal. The glue then disolves .Then I use a the tip of a knife to pick them up from the paper and position it into place. when it is at the right position I rub it with a soft cloth.
In the revised manual there is a mention of this on page 5 picture 2 for the metal transfer on the dash.

[Val33]

Ah, thats very helpful. Also shows the danger of picture based instructions, they really can't explain everything!

I have especially noticed that the order of fitting parts is not detailed very well, I have had to undo several parts after finding that its impossible to fit the assembly.

Val

[superfly]

I found an issue with my seats.....comparing the two side-side...it appears that the embossed logo (on the headrest) on one seat is not centered...its a bit lower....the other seat is dead centered!....argh!Does anyone else have the same issue?It is 3mm too low from centre

[Ton]

I found an issue with my seats.....comparing the two side-side...it appears that the embossed logo (on the headrest) on one seat is not centred...its a bit lower....the other seat is dead centered!....argh!Does anyone ekse have the same issue?It is 3mm too low from centre

Maybe a left and right seat????

[superfly]

Yes. there are left and right seats....the issue is the left seat. (when "standing" or facing in front of the seats)

[3.Star]

Doesn't matter which one it is...it's defective. So contact your dealer for replacement. Think, that they are carrying some Pocher traditions with uncomplete and defective kits, as well. Have heard about missing parts, especially some of the etch parts missing in kits. Mines are complete so far (I hope). Just unpacked one of them, but will take every square inch of my working place, to store them.

[roymattblack]

Surely all the stitching, embossing, logo etc are in the same mould as the seat, not added afterwards so the logo can't be 'moved' accidentally.
A replacement seat will be exactly the same unless they correct the 'fault' in the actual seat mould - maybe unlikely unless they get literally hundreds of complaints?

Roy

[superfly]

Surely all the stitching, embossing, logo etc are in the same mould as the seat, not added afterwards so the logo can't be 'moved' accidentally.
A replacement seat will be exactly the same unless they correct the 'fault' in the actual seat mould - maybe unlikely unless they get literally hundreds of complaints?

Roy

Lets start complaining then...PVC is a terrible material...its toxic..oozes an oily film..can't be near heat or sunlight..collects dust..tricky to paint ...Those anime figures made of PVC...they all start to "lean" because the PVC gets softer and the legs cant support the figure..also the arms and legs start to fall off because of this. Not to mention the paint the manufacture uses...causes cancer when its still wet...(harmless once its cured)....There are 10 step maintence programs..how to keep PVC figures!


I would've perfered it moulded in plastic or resin..

[Ton]

I would've perfered it moulded in plastic or resin (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/resin/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/resin/) ..

Someone with moulding skills on the forum? gringrin

[Blacklion213]

Take some paint in the color, you want for the stitches, thin it a ittle with turpentine, and use a fine brush to pant over the stitches.
let it dry 30 seconds. Then wipe the paint carafully away with a turpentine cloth. Then wipe over again with a dry cloth, and let the paint dry. It takes some time to do each seat, but it is the paitience and the work worth. I did mine in orange, and it looks wonderfull.


Hi Arne.

I'm deeply impressed with the results you achieved with this technique. I considered highlighting the stitching with this technique, too, but had doubts that it would work out nicely. Now I know that it does.
1clap1
Compared to the original 1:1 stitching of the Aventador, the results appear to be a little "rough". But compared to the other approaches discussed in this thread, this technique seems to be the best solution.
1thumbup1
Since I have the Aventador in Bianco Isis, I'm considering a black and white interior with white stitching. If I should decide to repaint the car in Grigio Estoque (my favorite color for the Aventador), I would go for a black interior with light grey stitching. Either way: I hope I will achieve similar results...

Cheers,
Lutz.

[Cobra 56]

Thank you for the kind comment. I recommend Tamiya Acrylic paint waterbased. You can also use my tecnique with turpentine based paint, but i found it was better to use thre Tamiya paint, because it better stitch to the seats . Good luck and happy modelling with the Lamborghini.

Cheers from Denmark.

Arne

[Blacklion213]

Thanks for the tips, Arne.

I will definitely use acrylic paint. But since I have various shades of white from Gunze in my drawer, I will try these first. I expect the results to be pretty much the same. The important part is that the paint is water based and will not corrode the seats' PVC.

[Blacklion213]

I unpacked my Aventador kit today. Very impressive!

As for the seats, I agree that the PVC basically looks pretty leatherish. Unfortunately, the seats that came with my kit have a patchy or stained finish, giving the seats a worn out look. Probably a result from the casting process. I have to repaint the seats in order to get a factory fresh look.

[Ton]

Lutz you could also try to clean the surface of the seats first with soapy water, turpentine etc.

[superfly]

I unpacked my Aventador kit today. Very impressive!

As for the seats, I agree that the PVC basically looks pretty leatherish. Unfortunately, the seats that came with my kit have a patchy or stained finish, giving the seats a worn out look. Probably a result from the casting process. I have to repaint the seats in order to get a factory fresh look.

Can you check the logos on the headrests....Is one logo lower than the other? (off center)....It would be the passenger seat...if you were to have a left-hand drive.....I'm thinking that everyones is off center..and its the mold.

[Blacklion213]

Can you check the logos on the headrests....Is one logo lower than the other? (off center)....It would be the passenger seat...if you were to have a left-hand drive.....I'm thinking that everyones is off center..and its the mold.Yes, same thing here.

[Dave J]

Hi everyone.. Regarding the stitching, I was planning to use Vallejo paint thinned down with water. Vallejo is a water based latex paint, so it should not effect the seats in anyway.It's a great looking kit indeed! I am dying to start mine... But I know there is aftermarket on the way that I will kick myself if I don't get it!

[Cobra 56]

You can also use Humbroll waterbased paint or other paint on waterbase. The important is the paint is waterbased, specially if you want a two tone finish on the seats. Oilbased paint don´t dry properly, and leaves a sticky surface.

[zskylar]

I tried the Tamiya acrylic method of adding stitching detail. It was about 2 hours per seat as mentioned.

[Blacklion213]

I tried the Tamiya acrylic method of adding stitching detail. It was about 2 hours per seat as mentioned.

Looking great! I'm considering the same white stitching.

[Ton]

Very well done!

[CitroenTA]

Good work, I'll do the same when I start to build that.

[tunedbysaturnsl1]

I think the stitching for me will be a definite must seeing as how the difference between OBO and with the stitching detailed is outstanding. It'll take some time, but clearly, it's worth it.

[Guiddy]

Would it not be quick to load the stitched area with say three coats of paint, let it dry, then carefully wipe away the excess with thinners on a fine cloth?

[Ton]

with thinners on a fine cloth

I would stay away from thinners ...unless you want a sticky seat gringrin

[Egon]

These stitchings are they holes in the seat ??, as I see the pic they look as very heavy stitch to me.
Mayby Archer Surface Details (http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html) have some stitching, or can make them ========== to fit the seats.
Just wrote Archer to ask.

[Guiddy]

I would stay away from thinners ...unless you want a sticky seat gringrin So Tamiya acrylic thinners would react with the pvc?

[Ton]

I had issues with the Porsche seats back in the days (they still pick gringrin) but you better try out on the inside

[Dave J]

So Tamiya acrylic thinners would react with the pvc?Tamiya thinners are alcohol based for the acrylic paints.. So no it shouldn't, but I would test on the back set first. I would be worried with oil based thinners as that could attack the rubber used for the seat

[Egon]

Archer decals can custom make these stitching at 150$ a sheet, a bit high, but he need the messurements on the stitchings, maybe if he make a production they will be cheaper, anyone ?

[superfly]

Archer decals can custom make these stitching at 150$ a sheet, a bit high, but he need the messurements on the stitchings, maybe if he make a production they will be cheaper, anyone ?


Why not take fine wire and make simulated stitches? poke them in...... sort of like staples.....use CA glue to secure them.

[Ton]

use CA glue (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/CA+glue/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/CA+glue/) to secure them.

I think that CA glue does not bond with this kind of pvc ( if you do it....try it on the inside of the seat half

[CitroenTA]

I think that CA glue does not bond with this kind of pvc ( if you do it....try it on the inside of the seat half
I agree that, Ton. There is no glue that suits for pvc.

[superfly]

From what i understand super glue will work.....you will be gluing the wire stiches from back side of the PVC seats.so the "stitches" has to go right through.Doesn't the instructions say to glue the seats to the seat backs?.....and to glue the seat belt buckle to the PVC seat?

[Blacklion213]

Archer decals can custom make these stitching at 150$ a sheet, a bit high, but he need the messurements on the stitchings, maybe if he make a production they will be cheaper, anyone ?

Sounds interesting.

But: I would have to fill, sand and prime the seats before applying the decals. Any idea what kind of filler could be used for this? Must also be water based, right?

The good thing about the decals is, that the stitching on the dash board could be replicated, too.

Maybe, if we find enough potential customers for the decal sheet, Archer considers a production run at a lower price. Question is: how many buyers does he need?

[superfly]

Aves Apoxie Sculpt (2 part)
Aves Apoxie Sculpt Sculpting Compound Product - Dalchem Australia (http://www.dalchem.com.au/index.php?Itemid=342&id=388&option=com_content&task=view)

[tommaso_iuele]

Sounds interesting.

But: I would have to fill, sand and prime the seats before applying the decals. Any idea what kind of filler could be used for this? Must also be water based, right?

The good thing about the decals is, that the stitching on the dash board could be replicated, too.

Maybe, if we find enough potential customers for the decal sheet, Archer considers a production run at a lower price. Question is: how many buyers does he need?

I will be probably making the decals for the seats and dashboard and on the side panels but I will have to check the production cost. The reproduction the stitching decals has to follow the curves where it will be applied.
Once I'm ready I will let the list know the exact amount, regarding the stitching it might be an extra cost but if we reach 50 samples il will be a low cost.

P.s. Work in progress :::))))1thumbup1

[roymattblack]

Why not take fine wire and make simulated stitches? poke them in...... sort of like staples.....use CA glue to secure them.

I must admit - the idea of making around 1000 minute wire staples, poking 2000+ holes and gluing them in fills me with dread.....

Roy.

[Cobra 56]

I think that CA glue (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/CA+glue/) http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/misc/vbglossarlink.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/CA+glue/) does not bond with this kind of pvc ( if you do it....try it on the inside of the seat half

LOCTITE SuperGLUE Precision works perfectly on the seats, and the cables and wiring. I use it on mine, and it glues and holds the parts together, very well.

[Ton]

LOCTITE SuperGLUE Precission works perfectly on the seats, and the cables and wiring. I use it on mine, and it glues and holds the parts together, very well.

Good news!

[superfly]

I must admit - the idea of making around 1000 minute wire staples, poking 2000+ holes and gluing them in fills me with dread.....

Roy.

Yes I dread the thought of it too...Perhaps just taking a long sewing needle with the color thread would be less painful??...lol
That why I'm holding on to the thought that someone...... will make resin seats with raised stitching.

[HighEnder]

Fully agree to superfly. Resin seats with raised stitching would be perfect. Resin seats with decals would be - from my point of view the 2nd best solution. I just want to get rid of the PVC stuff with the recessed stitches.

Best regards
Markus

[screetoy]

Anyone ever tried plasti-dip or vinyl dye to paint the seats ?

[roymattblack]

I went the 'long' route and painted each stitch one at a time with a fine brush, and a magnifying lamp.
Each seat was completed in stages over around a week.

Roy.

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[Ton]

Very nice job Roy.....I feel the pain :-)

[SVtrackhead]

I did this for a set, except I used a thinned water based latex paint, brushed it on in big strokes and wiped it off quickly to leave the color in the recesses. The result wasn't bad, but it exaggerated the flaws in the molding of the "stitching".

[Tage]

Painting PVC can be done by using some "Bumper" spray paint (for flexable plastic bumpers) then spraying over it with the paint of your choice.