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Guiddy
12-30-13, 03:38 PM
My Isis White Aventador arrived today!
I find this part of any project the most fun, getting the pictures together, ordering the materials etc and planning the spec.

Specification will be as follows:
Exterior:
Isis White paint.
Silver wheels! (Controversial I know as itís down speccing the car but I like to see the wheels and think it suits the white)
Yellow Spring Kit PR code: 2MQ (I like this, an option at ordering. Seeing yellow springs through the rear window looks cool!)
Yellow callipers PR Code: PC3

Interior:
Nero Ade leather with contrasting Giallo Taurus Yellow stitching Bicolour Sportivo (PR code: OUH)
Iím hoping flooding the dips in the Pocher seats with flat white, then yellow, then wiping the excess off will give the right effect.
Steering wheel with Suede leather and yellow stitching (PR Code: 1ML)
Carbon interior kit

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Exterior mods are based on a company called Capristo who do most of the exterior trim in carbon fibre. It has a matt finish which will stop the model looking too gaudy!
I shall do all the kits black trim with the Capristo parts. They do the wing and air intakes in carbon but I prefer them in white.

Guiddy
12-30-13, 05:49 PM
For all you guys building or about to build Aventadors I have some great reference material for youÖ

Here is a YouTube video of a team who disassemble and rebuild a real car to fit in a museum!
Hey, they couldnít get it through the door! What else do you do!
The engine has been run in and so you can see the heat staining on the exhausts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yfBZTeZamU&feature=player_embedded

A nice breakdown of the suspension
2012 Lamborghini Aventador: Suspension Walkaround (http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2012-lamborghini-aventador-suspension-walkaround.html)

This is really cool! You use all the little colour chips to decide on your colour scheme!
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These pics are some of the inner detail. Check out how the exhaust looks used!

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superfly
12-30-13, 06:21 PM
All Aventadors are test driven before releasing to the customer....Yes definitely see heat staining....I'm gonna use artist oils to try get that brownish..stain.looks like a well use bbq.....or a moonshiner's distillery

Ton
12-30-13, 06:27 PM
But I think that first you have to add a heat shield to the exhaust

superfly
12-30-13, 06:30 PM
But I think that first you have to add a heat shield to the exhaust Hi Ton...yes i was thinking of using cigarette foil...might be out of scale....perhaps Ferrro Roche foil?

Guiddy
12-30-13, 06:58 PM
For this project I'm using some of this...

Hiroboy.com - Specialising in Scale Car and Bike Model Kits, Accessories, Paints, etc. (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=645&osCsid=06f74e8e5fb119a4f8b41ea4b0c6e23c)

Hopefully enough to do the back, sides and cover the exhaust.

superfly
12-30-13, 07:11 PM
For this project I'm using some of this... Hiroboy.com - Specialising in Scale Car and Bike Model Kits, Accessories, Paints, etc. (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=645&osCsid=06f74e8e5fb119a4f8b41ea4b0c6e23c) Hopefully enough to do the back, sides and cover the exhaust. Wow..that is nice! also the self-adhesive flocking sheets.....I'll add those on my list...thnx Guiddy!

Guiddy
12-30-13, 07:44 PM
Nice one, it'll look great!
I went for a black flocking sheet too, as well as these scale hose clamps for all the hoses!

Hiroboy.com - Specialising in Scale Car and Bike Model Kits, Accessories, Paints, etc. (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2758)

CitroenTA
12-31-13, 12:04 AM
Great reference photos, thank you.

HighEnder
12-31-13, 05:18 AM
Hi Guiddy,

excellent photos. Good luck for your assembly.

Ton
12-31-13, 05:25 AM
Hi Ton...yes i was thinking of using cigarette foil...might be out of scale....perhaps Ferrro Roche foil?

Cigarette foil is imo scale-wise a good choice. I would try curtain, easy to shape and glue and than cover it with aluminium foil

Guiddy
01-02-14, 09:16 AM
It's here! gringrin
Wow, even with everyone talking about how big the box is, nothing prepares you for how big the box is!
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One of the first things I noticed was the lovely 3d Raging Bull logo for the bonnet (Hood for you US guys!)
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But then noticed the parts tree holds some of the bodywork very close to it's edge.
If the cut isn't clean it'll not look good on the finished model. Will it cause me to respray the car? Time will tell!
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The paint on these parts has that 'can fresh' look. Would benefit from polishing
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CitroenTA
01-02-14, 09:54 AM
1thumbup1 Looking very good and big. I got an e-mail today and mine Lambo has been dispatched today from Germany. Next week gringrin

superfly
01-02-14, 10:19 AM
Use a good sprue cutter ...leave a little bit sprue from the parts side....Carefully sand it flush using file used for fingernails..perhaps tape off the edge so your painted part doesn't get scratched...

Thats great that the emblems and scripts are 3D metal transfers...and not flat stickers or waterslide decals!....

Guiddy
01-02-14, 01:34 PM
I'm starting with the engine as I would never start a project with the interior!
Cutting all the flash off and smoothing off.
First thing I am going to do is file off the Lamborghini scripts off the top of the engine cover and replace them with these:

chrome(metal) decals Lamborghini B(silver) 2153 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170926026618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

That'll look cooler already! I worked out a pair of the scripts are near enough the 2.5cm needed!

AirB
01-02-14, 01:56 PM
Good luck with the build Guiddy.

I like to ask you and also the whole community, is there anybody who like to share pictures of
the differential in the back of the car, they seems nowhere to find.

Ton
01-02-14, 03:10 PM
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Is there interest in an Aventador album with all kinds of reference pictures?

AirB
01-02-14, 03:54 PM
YES please Ton, for the reference pictures1thumbup1
The pics you posted are from the gearbox, i need pics of the rear axle with the differential,

Regards,
Rudy

superfly
01-02-14, 04:19 PM
google (images)..... Aventador front and/or rear differential...and youll get blow up drawings of both....i cant copy the images....i took pictures on my phone for references.

Ton
01-02-14, 04:57 PM
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STARK
01-02-14, 07:20 PM
Looking forward to the build. 1thumbup1

CitroenTA
01-03-14, 12:03 AM
Parts manual here: 2012 Lamborghini AVENTADOR LP700-4 COUPE EUROPE NAMEPLATES (010.01.00) (http://www.bullstuff.com/lamborghini-parts-manual/aventador-2012-aventador-lp700-4-coupe-europe)

superfly
01-03-14, 01:22 AM
Parts manual here: 2012 Lamborghini AVENTADOR LP700-4 COUPE EUROPE NAMEPLATES (010.01.00) (http://www.bullstuff.com/lamborghini-parts-manual/aventador-2012-aventador-lp700-4-coupe-europe)

thats where i got pics of the differentials! awesome reference pics

3.Star
01-03-14, 03:36 AM
Hi Daniel,

thank you for the pics....your Aventador is coming up great.

Cheers
Michael

HighEnder
01-03-14, 04:30 AM
Parts manual here: 2012 Lamborghini AVENTADOR LP700-4 COUPE EUROPE NAMEPLATES (010.01.00) (http://www.bullstuff.com/lamborghini-parts-manual/aventador-2012-aventador-lp700-4-coupe-europe)

Unbelievable document. I already searched a lot in the interet to find some reference pictures but I never found that exploded assembly drawing. Thank you very much. That's really helpful. gringrin

AirB
01-03-14, 02:38 PM
Thanks for the links to the exploded vieuws, guys,
i like to thank you Daniel for the tip you give about the
metallic signs, i know them but did'n kwow they are suitable for 1/8.

Regards,
Rudy

Guiddy
01-12-14, 03:39 PM
Progress so far.
All the engine parts were primered in Halfords Matt Black which doesn't need a primer, can be sprayed straight onto the plastic.
It gives a nice base ready for the Alclad 2 Gloss Aluminium which was used for the engine block.
I then used Pale Gold for the fuel rail just to break up the black a bit.
I also glued the gearbox together rather than screw it together as it doesn't need to disassemble in the future.
The first thing I noted was to but the engine cover in place over the inlet manifolds when screwing the heads onto the block.
That way they line up perfectly to save any problems in the future.
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Guiddy
01-13-14, 09:55 AM
I'll now file all the mold lines off the ancillary parts and spray them accordingly. I used a plastic contact glue for those which melts the plastics together.
I am using this picture to detail all the parts: It shows the details on the oil filter, alternator & Aircon Pump
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Guiddy
01-13-14, 12:11 PM
To get the crackle finish on the engine cover I opted for Plasti-kote Stone.
Takes ages to dry so don't be tempted to touch it!
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And here it is with matt black sprayed over it. I will leave you to decide if you like it!
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I don't, it's too rough, so if it's off to a brake fluid bath for this part!

HighEnder
01-13-14, 01:00 PM
Hi Guiddy,

are you happy with the stone surface? Plastikoste is available in Germany.
The feeling of this original surface is really fantastic.

However I do not have a solution for the the model.
I am thinking about using the same procedure like flocking but with sand.
1st step I would like to use glue. 2nd step is to put some sand on it. 3rd step will be aifbrushing with black coat.

Does anybody made this before?

roymattblack
01-13-14, 02:09 PM
TBH I'm going to leave well alone with this part.
I've seen numerous attempts at replicating crackle finish in mini-scale and it nearly always look a bit poor.
Either it looks like concrete or as if the part has carpet all over it.
Please though, if anyone is going to do it, prove me wrong and maybe I'll re-think.

Roy.

Ton
01-13-14, 03:31 PM
will be aifbrushing with black coat.

Leave the glue and sand and only use your airbrush: double the normal distance and the paint dries in the air and becomes a sand like layer. For the right distances and pressure please experiment.

Ton
01-13-14, 03:40 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/07/101.jpg

I gave the grey part a thick layer of paint, let it dry for about 8/9 minutes and than pushed gently a brush in the thickened paint than you get a crackled finish too

superfly
01-13-14, 04:32 PM
Crackle finish?.....Do you mean casted finish? Like when a part is made using a sand mold and molten metal is poured in...leaving the texture of the sand on the casted part? In this scale....that texture should be very fine..It might be better to use a powder cleanser or toothpaste and brush. and rough the surface of the air box to get a scale texture and then wash off and paint.

Blacklion213
01-14-14, 01:10 AM
To get the crackle finish on the engine cover I opted for Plasti-kote Stone. Takes ages to dry so don't be tempted to touch it!25253Cant't wait to see what it looks like when painted black.

Cobra 56
01-14-14, 08:21 AM
Originally Posted by Guiddy http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/75314-pocher-aventador-wip-guiddys-post141748.html#post141748)
To get the crackle finish on the engine cover I opted for Plasti-kote Stone. Takes ages to dry so don't be tempted to touch it!Attachment 25253 (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/attachments/large-scale-cars/25253-pocher-aventador-wip-guiddys-imag1010.jpg)

I got exactly the same idear, and it was a fiasco. It covered all the fine details on the INTAKE MANIFOLD, and CYLINDER HEAD cover. The surface becomes muth to rough, and after drying you must seal the sprayed surface with clear varnish. First then you can spray it over, with black paint. Luckily it is water based, and i had the luck to remove it again, before it was finally dry, and i saved my cylinder heads and engine cover.
Therefore try it on your own risk.

tommaso_iuele
01-14-14, 09:12 AM
TBH I'm going to leave well alone with this part.
I've seen numerous attempts at replicating crackle finish in mini-scale and it nearly always look a bit poor.
Either it looks like concrete or as if the part has carpet all over it.
Please though, if anyone is going to do it, prove me wrong and maybe I'll re-think.

Roy.

Hi, here is what I did, photo is not great, but it is close 90% to original25261

Blacklion213
01-14-14, 02:19 PM
Hi, here is what I did, photo is not great, but it is close 90% to original.


Tommaso.

Why did you post a photo of a real 1:1 Testarossa power plant ? We would like to see how you did it in 1:8 scale...!!!

Blacklion213
01-14-14, 02:23 PM
I gave the grey part a thick layer of paint, let it dry for about 8/9 minutes and than pushed gently a brush in the thickened paint than you get a crackled finish too

That looks very convincing! 1clap1

tommaso_iuele
01-14-14, 03:42 PM
Tommaso.

Why did you post a photo of a real 1:1 Testarossa power plant ? We would like to see how you did it in 1:8 scale...!!!

sorry thats a scale 1/8 pocher, check my websitegringrin

Blacklion213
01-14-14, 04:35 PM
sorry thats a scale 1/8 pocher, check my websitegringrin

I know, Tommaso, I know. I was just teasing you! 1hey1

tommaso_iuele
01-14-14, 05:21 PM
I know, Tommaso, I know. I was just teasing you! 1hey1


o sorry.... Italy is just draining my brains... Anybody thinking about moving here? Think twice... actually dont think about it, living here is exactully like living the stoneage...... Its just good to visit. Anyway sorry again, but thanks for the tease.
All the best.
T.
P.s. parts are getting close... drawings and details catching up :))1nworthy1

superfly
01-14-14, 06:56 PM
Yes Tommaso...can't wait to see

CitroenTA
01-15-14, 11:31 AM
Yes Tommaso...can't wait to see
Me too...

Guiddy
01-15-14, 07:42 PM
Decided to add more detail to the fuel rails. A bit of research and I elected for green injectors and the fuel pressure regulator should be chrome silver. Yeah, the fuel rail maybe should be black but I elected for a bit of colour.
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Egon
01-15-14, 07:43 PM
What program are you using to Draw, I use Coreldraw.

tommaso_iuele
01-16-14, 01:26 AM
What program are you using to Draw, I use Coreldraw.

Illustrator cs6 and 3d max.

Guiddy
01-16-14, 05:31 PM
Had a nice productive day using the airbrush which got the exhaust done.
The paints used were Alclad 2: Exhaust manifold, copper, pale gold, steel, gloss aluminium & hot metal blue
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I used heat shield foil across the main body of the silencer which covered the two screw hole on the back, and also covered the flexi-joint with it. I'd really like to use the inside of some coaxial cable for that flexi-joint as it would look perfect!
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2014/01/71.jpg

Ton
01-16-14, 05:39 PM
Looks very good Daniel! The discoloration looks convincing

3.Star
01-16-14, 06:48 PM
Concerning the question of textured metal, I am still thinking of the method the unforgotten Mario Lucchini did on the Jaguar engine. Gunning the part with large needle and paint mixed with bird's sand. At that time, I thought it won't work and jam the gun, but it did. Think he's sitting now at God's workbench, to create a better world.

Guiddy
01-16-14, 06:58 PM
Are you going to try that Michael, as I can tell you the stone texture didn't work!
Even with minimum amount of matt black sprayed over the top it looks like a thick mess! So it's into the brake fluid bath for this part!
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3.Star
01-16-14, 07:26 PM
Hi Daniel,
it was a kind of hard work to dig out thread. Have a look at it here:http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/2904-jaguar-type-e-build-1-a.html
Isn't that texture the one to be desired? Never thought, that it will work like the job Mario did here, but it does. Used a 0.5mm needle Harder&Steenbeck low fed airbrush and achieved about the same result.
Cheers

superfly
01-16-14, 08:03 PM
If you look at a grain of silica sand.....and now shrink that grain of silica sand 8 times....thats how fine it should be....
It would be so fine that paint would obliterate the texture...

Modellers have used silica powder or silica carbide powder....for textured paint.

Talcum powder (unscented) doesn't have the right grainy texture.


DO NOT USE BAKING SODA....ruined half of this guys collection.....reacted with his paint....

Another technique is to take Mr.Surfacer 500 and stipple the texture with a hard brush...after its cured light sanding to even it out a bit.

superfly
01-16-14, 09:11 PM
Tamiya Diorama Texture Paint 100ml - Light Sand Grit Effect | at Mighty Ape NZ (http://media.mightyape.net.nz/product/Tamiya-Diorama-Texture-Paint-100ml-Light-Sand-Grit-Effect/20740571)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/871texture_paint/index.htm

Also this.

superfly
01-16-14, 10:03 PM
Had a nice productive day using the airbrush which got the exhaust done.
The paints used were Alclad 2: Exhaust manifold, copper, pale gold, steel, gloss aluminium & hot metal blue
252992530025301
I used heat shield foil across the main body of the silencer which covered the two screw hole on the back, and also covered the flexi-joint with it. I'd really like to use the inside of some coaxial cable for that flexi-joint as it would look perfect!
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2014/01/71.jpg


try heat shrink braided sleeving

Tourpretendent
01-17-14, 04:52 AM
Are you going to try that Michael, as I can tell you the stone texture didn't work!
Even with minimum amount of matt black sprayed over the top it looks like a thick mess! So it's into the brake fluid bath for this part!
2530525306

To create this kind of texture I would use flower it works easy and the effect is very nice.

Just spray paint in the desired color and dip the part in flower. Repeat this process until the texture is as desired.

Success, Ronald

Cobra 56
01-17-14, 05:25 AM
Originally Posted by Guiddy http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/75314-pocher-aventador-wip-guiddys-post141748.html#post141748)
To get the crackle finish on the engine cover I opted for Plasti-kote Stone. Takes ages to dry so don't be tempted to touch it!Attachment 25253 (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/attachments/large-scale-cars/25253-pocher-aventador-wip-guiddys-imag1010.jpg)

I got exactly the same idear, and it was a fiasco. It covered all the fine details on the INTAKE MANIFOLD, and CYLINDER HEAD cover. The surface becomes muth to rough, and after drying you must seal the sprayed surface with clear varnish. First then you can spray it over, with black paint. Luckily it is water based, and i had the luck to remove it again, before it was finally dry, and i saved my cylinder heads and engine cover.
Therefore try it on your own risk.



Last edited by Cobra 56; 01-17-14 at 10:23 AM.

Guiddy
01-17-14, 05:51 AM
Yeah Arne, you did say! It will remove easily and at least it narrows down the options with pictures.
It won't hold the build up any way.
More progress. Engine ancillaries are on. Just the wiring to add: Used a few different tones of Alclad Aluminium to give it depth.
A 1/18 Aston Gives an idea of just how much of an Aventador is engine! This is one huge model!
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Cobra 56
01-17-14, 06:52 AM
Yeah Arne, you did say! It will remove easily and at least it narrows down the options with pictures.
It won't hold the build up any way.
More progress. Engine ancillaries are on. Just the wiring to add: Used a few different tones of Alclad Aluminium to give it depth.
A 1/18 Aston Gives an idea of just how much of an Aventador is engine! This is one huge model!
2530925310

Yes i said it to late for you Guiddy. You got the idear and did your attemp before i got the same idear. I hope you can save and redo your air intake.

SVtrackhead
01-17-14, 11:26 AM
Leave the glue and sand and only use your airbrush: double the normal distance and the paint dries in the air and becomes a sand like layer. For the right distances and pressure please experiment.I'll vote for this method every time, whether for a sand-cast or crackle finish. Simple, quick and 90% of the desired effect. In 1/8 scale a true crackle/wrinkled finish would be so small as to be nearly invisible, so best to err on the side of subtlety. Another option is to use sprayed lacquer over bare plastic, it will sometimes etch just enough to give a good texture.

PS: a good option for a durable flat finish is often just primer.

Guiddy
01-30-14, 06:05 AM
Engine is together and waiting for wiring.
I'll add extra wiring using telephone wire, heatshrink tubing and connectors from Top Studio.
Springs were sprayed using Fiat Golden yellow, everything else is Alclad 2
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Guiddy
02-08-14, 07:15 PM
The interior plastics need a lot of cleaning up, but are looking good.
The stitching was done by washing a watery Thinned Tamiya XF-3 flat yellow into the recesses, letting dry and then wiping the excess off.
This leaves a light yellow staining but I'll polish the seats up with a bit of shoe polish in final assembly....
Wash in place...and then after wiping off
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And the finished seat...
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Ton
02-08-14, 08:02 PM
Great job!

CitroenTA
02-09-14, 03:14 AM
Nice!

SVtrackhead
02-09-14, 11:44 AM
looks great, especially the engine

Guiddy
02-10-14, 06:13 PM
Added wiring to the engine. Tried to make some of lead somewhere but very hard without diagrams!
For the alternator
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The Air Con unit.
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The power steering pump reservoir was done using Bare Metal Foil
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I also added plumbing for the fuel tanks, drilled and wired the Lambda sensors and the oil tank
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superfly
02-10-14, 07:30 PM
I wonder if you cut a long, thin strip of papertape...and wrap over the wirebundles...and then paint flat black....would it make them look better? I'm thinking about using real wires and wrapping them in paper tape.

Guiddy
02-11-14, 12:43 PM
Yeah, that would look great. You won't see any of this wiring when the car is complete but worth going to those lengths where the wiring can be seen. I thought wrapping them in seatbelt material could work.

Guiddy
02-25-14, 08:24 AM
Cockpit is near completion, just seeing how I can improve the centre console before adding it.
The yellow stitching brightens it up nicely. I changed my mind from Carbon trim to silver so I didn't cover the instrument shroud.
I sprayed the main tub in matt black as I thought it replicated the real car better.
Looking at ways to improve things I'd consider fixing the two steering wheel halves together and filling the gap before painting.
I brushed some Microscale clear glue over the Lamborghini logo on the steering wheel to give it some depth.
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WINGS
02-26-14, 12:01 AM
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Guiddy
02-28-14, 08:16 AM
The wheels received three coats of Alclad gloss aluminium.
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CitroenTA
02-28-14, 10:12 AM
Looking much better than black ones.

Blacklion213
02-28-14, 12:38 PM
Looking much better than black ones.

I agree. Much better.

Guiddy
03-12-14, 03:44 PM
The second attempt at the intake manifold cover was a huge success. This time using Halfords products pictured. £16 worth of paint but as I'm doing the Pocher F40 next I didn't mind.
The texture is subtle enough and the Matt black is truly Matt.26262

roymattblack
03-12-14, 04:30 PM
That looks pretty damn spot on.
I'll be buying some cans for my Aventador.

Roy

SVtrackhead
03-12-14, 04:34 PM
Agree, the wheels and engine cover look great!

roymattblack
03-12-14, 06:24 PM
Looks as if the forum is being Spam-bombed......

SVtrackhead
03-12-14, 06:35 PM
I'm getting malware warnings from those posts as well from my AV

Ton
03-12-14, 07:21 PM
Everything is removed

Guiddy
03-12-14, 07:29 PM
Adding the metal logos I bought of eBay. Fortunately the logo sheet has a surround that doubled as the stripes on the engine cover.

Guiddy
03-12-14, 07:36 PM
They are very chrome in their finish but look sharp.

Ton
03-12-14, 07:43 PM
Looks very nice! An improvement to the original!

Guiddy
03-12-14, 08:57 PM
All done

Guiddy
03-18-14, 07:22 PM
A few people didn't like my original wiring and so I redid it all using a mix of T2M corrugated cable and Hiroboy 2.5 & 4mm black tubing, the latter covered in heat shield material near the exhaust.
The engine bay is now starting to look busy! Amazing how much wiring that takes!

Guiddy
03-18-14, 07:40 PM
I also didn't like my shocks, so redid them using Alclad chrome, Tamiya camel yellow for the springs and metal foil around the shock top.
finally Hudz donuts were used to simulate the bump stops.

Ton
03-18-14, 08:08 PM
You did a great job!

Guiddy
03-20-14, 06:36 PM
It was a great moment attaching the subframe to the monocoque, feels like I'm really making progress now.
time spent preparing the screw holes pays off here. Either tapping or pre-screwing the holes before adding the subframe as a lot of metal came out and they are tight.
I stuck the Ohlins decals over a carbon fibre base so they stood out. Quite why they are white I don't know.
I also used photoetched jubilee clips for the air filter joints which were a nightmare to fit!

superfly
03-20-14, 07:25 PM
Your right OHLINS should be black and on a name plate.. nice solution with the CF backing

andylam16
03-21-14, 01:13 AM
Amazing work!!!1nworthy1

CitroenTA
03-21-14, 11:58 AM
Here is the original ÷hlins logo for the suspension. Hope someone could make these, maybe Tommaso.
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tommaso_iuele
03-21-14, 02:43 PM
already done water decals... Tks1hey1

superfly
03-21-14, 06:53 PM
That's great Tommaso.....can't wait to see the prototype.

Guiddy
05-22-14, 06:55 PM
Has anyone purchased the eBay CD from pjekoo? Looking through the pictures it looks like a great help!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POCHER-1-8-LAMBORGHINI-AVENTADOR-ASSEMBLY-PAINTING-SUPER-DETAILING-DVD-ROM-/321412925246

CitroenTA
05-23-14, 12:11 AM
I have, but don't have it yet. I also purchased new decals and the carpet set.

Hello. Thank you for reserving the Pocher Lamborghini Aventador Assembly and Extra detailing resource DVD. It has taken me several hundred hours, and I am finally finished. Here is what it contains:
∑ Over 800 step by step assembly photos with building tips.
∑ Over 650 photos on how to super detail your model. These photos are organized by sections, including AC system, cooling system, oil lines, power steering, vacuum hoses, Alternator, brake system and hoses, engine details, exhaust system, and even how to add working headlights.
∑ Over 300 privately taken reference photos, some showing hidden mechanics, plus another 350 high quality photos collected from the internet.
∑ Videos, and over 300 screen captures from the videos that shows useful information for model detailing.
There are over 4.5 gigabytes of data on this DVD, making this the largest DVD-ROM I have produced so far.
I have also produced a supplemental decal set which includes all the missing marking and incorrect marking. These include the oil filter logo, fuel line parts tag, the red band on the throttle cables, rear Ohlins shock decal in black, front Ohlins shock decal in clear yellow, reduced size battery labels that actually fits the battery, USA smog tag, VIN number tag (with matching VIN number to the one on the dashboard), tire information label, mercury content warning label, oil tank label, alternate instrument gauge and navigation screen display, CD player in correct black color, seat belt buckle red tips, the 3 rear center console button markings, steering wheel button markings, fuel cap logo, fuel door marking in correct size, replacement oil filler cap, power steering fluid cap, and coolant cap logos, replacement dashboard small button markings, and replacement Lamborghini logos for the front badge, wheels, and steering wheel center that has the bull centered, and with the correct color.
As you probably have seen, I will also have an interior carpeting kit.
The price is as follows:
$29 DVD-ROM (reservation price)
$19 decal set
$12 Carpet kit
Shipping cost will depend on location. I charge only actual cost so there will just be one shipping cost. Please reply me and let me know which items you would like, and your mailing address. I will send you an invoice. Thank you so much.
Paul.
Here is a link to the custom decal and carpeting application instructions


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uugif88d74ebn3w/AADoTwX_QxehKrchZxcevRMIa

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=fdaad0deb0&view=att&th=14611191267482ee&attid=0.0.1&disp=emb&zw&atsh=1

AMG
05-25-14, 05:35 AM
Guiddy, did you have any issues sliding in the dashboard? Mine seems to be 2 mm too wide to fit in. Wanted to ask before I start filing away excess plastic and then find out I made a huge mistake. Love your exhaust colours by the way.


EDIT: Fixed - in STEP 6 I should have worked the page from bottom to top. Gotta love those instructions gringrin

Guiddy
05-27-14, 06:17 PM
Love your exhaust colours by the way.



Thanks mate. I struggled with the dash too if that makes you feel any better!

Flyboy47
05-27-14, 08:02 PM
I had the same problem.

I found the easiest way was to dismantle the 2 major parts and reattach them after in position.

Hope this helps...I just have to remember to do it with my 2nd one I've just started
cheers

AMG
06-01-14, 09:51 AM
I received the DVD mentioned above and for someone who has barely done scratch building I love it. Mostly though because Paul (the author) explains what's what and what is missing from the engine bay. I've already deconstructed the engine bay partly and adding more tubing. For the braided part on the exhaust I tried metal braid but that turned out to be a bit of a disaster. Now thinking of getting a nylon braided watch strap and use that. Picking up some good ideas from you guys too!

Guiddy
12-06-14, 07:47 PM
This project is back on the model table and also being worked on with Paul's DVD. I love the help this offers and it has added to the fun of the build.I must say pre threading the screws for the suspension is ESSENTIAL! Once done though it all goes together well. I kept all the screws tight and there is no slop in the suspension.

Guiddy
12-12-14, 03:22 PM
I have sprayed a lot of the white sections of the model black. Most of these won't be seen but it adds a touch of class. The section between the front A pillars in front of the dash.
all the inside of the rear clam was done.

Guiddy
12-12-14, 03:25 PM
The area under the rear wing would be open on the real car and you would see the heat shield for the exhaust as well as some wiring etc.
for the model I sprayed it semi gloss black. Whether I add more detail will depend on how it all looks when the wing is in place.

randyb
01-21-15, 11:13 PM
I Tired this from Rust-O-Leum . Used BMF for the Lambo script . Sprayed a few lite coats let it dry in the food dehydrator for about 30min. Used a 300 sandinfng stick with some soapy water on the BMF . The paint is the fine texture from Rust-O-Leum.


.Randy

Guiddy
12-06-16, 08:50 AM
This is close to completion now and everything is going together smoothly I'm glad to say, especially as this is an early kit with the mistakes!
Working on the front clam I sprayed the inside matt black. Mostly because you can see white paint as you look inside the large front air intakes and I didn't like the look of white metal inside the wheel arches. Any overspray was polished off the edges after using cutting compound. This is the first time it can be seen with the silver wheels in place.
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Guiddy
12-06-16, 08:53 AM
I also did the mod a few of you talked about which means the inner boot liner can be removed meaning all that detail added earlier can still be seen! It was easy enough to remove the plastic lip around the boot (trunk) liner and the rubber seal was glued straight to the liner. Now when you take it out you can see this...
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Guiddy
12-15-16, 05:20 AM
The light housings were filed as there was a lot of flash on them and sprayed gloss black. I also roughed up the inside of the clear Y headlight parts with sandpaper and painted them with True Metal silver as they are not really clear on the real car. This gave them a more realistic look.
The projector lense is a tight fit but goes in when it is lined up properly. If you want to be really fussy part of the chrome surround should be matt black as per this picture below so only a small amount of chrome shows: I didn't glue mine in so I may change it before fitting the front clam.
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