Pocher Aventador Orange WIP DRZOOM68

[DRZOOM68]

Hi, superfly asked some pictures from my build and here they are.
Monocoque is ready and I am now busy with the engine. I am detailing with paint, carbon and used carpet in the interior.
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[Guiddy]

Looks great! The grey has lifted the darkness of the interior nicely. Could still have more detail on the air vents on the dashboard.

I love the carbon used for the monocoque, looks just right. Matt lacquer would seal it and stop it being too shiny as I noticed it's almost matt on the real car.

What paint did you use for the seats?

[DRZOOM68]

Thanks, I used Tamiya TS-48 Gunship Grey for the interior (spraycan) and Model Naranja 71.083 for the orange color.
The problem is that the paint does not stick to the rubber. I've messed it up when installing the seats. I touched it up with a brush to repair the damage. In real it does not look as flawless as on the picture. Pocher should correct this and make the rubber part of the seats in to plastic, so you won't have paint issues.

[Guiddy]

Did you scuff the seats with wet & dry sandpaper and use a plastic primer?

[DRZOOM68]

Yes, in one way or another the paint is not set. It looks great but when you touch it, it sticks to your fingers.
Maybe there is a rubber primer on the market.
First I would do the seats in real leather but the rubber is to flexible. They should have done it in plastic then you would have more options to detail it.

[STARK]

From the pics above, though not flawless, it looks fantastic. I love it. Maybe it is time to order another kit and customise the current one like you have.

[DRZOOM68]

From the pics above, though not flawless, it looks fantastic. I love it. Maybe it is time to order another kit and customise the current one like you have.

Thanks.

[DRZOOM68]

Here is a picture of K#11.24987

[superfly]

Excellent work in progress!...I like how the painted parts brings "life" to the interior...Will you be painting the same accent color to the door panels???

[DRZOOM68]

Excellent work in progress!...I like how the painted parts brings "life" to the interior...Will you be painting the same accent color to the door panels???

Yes. I 've based my interior on this picture of the real one.
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[CitroenTA]

Exellent work indeed. Keep it going.

[3.Star]

Hmmm. Might be some of the Lexan paints of the R/C fraction can do the job. Tried them to do whitewalls on tires, were working quite fine.

Cheers
Michael

[Slyy77]

Be Careful if it's a lacquer or other solvent based paint though. If it's too "hot" it could melt the rubber. Oil based enamels will usually stay sticky because the rubber being a petroleum product that may not react well with the oils in the paint. A water based paint may work. If the rubber parts came on a "sprue" do a few test on that so you'll know if it'll cause any problems.

Great looking model of an amazing car. I've been watching Stark's build and now will be following yours too. Nice work, and good luck on the paint issues.

Take care,
Kevin

[CitroenTA]

Are the seats made of "real" rubber or vinyl?

[superfly]

I was wondering if the seats and tires are made of vinyl also??

[superfly]

I e-mailed Pocher directly...to ask what material the seats and tires are made of

[CitroenTA]

I e-mailed Pocher directly...to ask what material the seats and tires are made of
/~\

[CitroenTA]

Again two builders in one thread. 1confused1

[Guiddy]

Wait till DRZOOM68 finds out!!! 1nonono1

[superfly]

Yochanpapa...I would love to follow your build...may we ask that you start a new thread please...or can we get a Mod move yours to a new one?

[STARK]

Lol I am confused with my own build now. I guess we have 4 builders including me for the Aventador. I guess I will have to pull out and let you guys continue. Cheers.

[yochanpapa]

Yochanpapa...I would love to follow your build...may we ask that you start a new thread please...or can we get a Mod move yours to a new one?

I understand.
Since there is a new thread, it contributes there.
I am sorry. 1nworthy1

[DRZOOM68]

Happy new year everybody!

Made a heatshield on the monocoque.
Then I've build the rear subframe. Coated it with clear high gloss. After that build it together and attached it to the monocoque.
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[HighEnder]

Could you please do my a favour? What kind of paint did you use to get that excellent engine finish?Do you use extra metallizer? If yes, what kind of metallizer do you use?Which kind of finish to you use for this effect?Please provide your hidden secrets to me.Markus

[DRZOOM68]

Could you please do my a favour? What kind of paint did you use to get that excellent engine finish?Do you use extra metallizer? If yes, what kind of metallizer do you use?Which kind of finish to you use for this effect?Please provide your hidden secrets to me.Markus

Hi Markus, I use Tamiya paints. The metallic is Flat Aluminium XF-16. For the exhaust I used Titanium Silver X-32. For the top cover above the injectors I used Flat Black XF-1.

[HighEnder]

Thank you very much.

[STARK]

Hi Markus, I use Tamiya paints. The metallic is Flat Aluminium XF-16. For the exhaust I used Titanium Silver X-32. For the top cover above the injectors I used Flat Black XF-1.

Do you spray them directly from spray can or are you using airbrush?

[Ton]

Do you spray them directly from spray can or are you using airbrush?

or maybe a brush?gringrin

[STARK]

or maybe a brush?gringrin

1thumbup1

[Ton]

IMO you get better results with a brush on "small" parts like the engine. A brush adds extra texture

[DRZOOM68]

Do you spray them directly from spray can or are you using airbrush?

Large parts like the interior I spray. Also the clear on the subframe I sprayed. The engine I did with a brush because of the texture. There are 3 coats on them.
Because of the scale it takes more coats.

[HighEnder]

Sorry to ask. But brush in German has a lot of meanings. A brush for painting or a brush like a toothbrush? 1confused1
Three coats means tree times clear coat respectivley flat cat for the aluminum parts. Am I right?

[DRZOOM68]

Sorry to ask. But brush in German has a lot of meanings. A brush for painting or a brush like a toothbrush? 1confused1
Three coats means tree times clear coat respectivley flat cat for the aluminum parts. Am I right?

I mean paint brush and 3 layers of paint .
Ich meine ein Pinsel und drei Schichten Farbe gringrin

[HighEnder]

Thank you for the German translation. Now it is clear.gringrin

[STARK]

Large parts like the interior I spray. Also the clear on the subframe I sprayed. The engine I did with a brush because of the texture. There are 3 coats on them.
Because of the scale it takes more coats.

I got the Tamiya spray cans and found it really hard to control the flow and pressure. A lot of paint is wasted and more than required gets applied on the surface. Was wondering if I could use airbrush instead so I have more control? To be honest I have not had much experience with airbrush but have used it in the past and can definitely say it feels much better than spraying from the can. But would it be possible to use primer with airbrush? Recommendations would be much appreciated.

With respect to art brush, I have no issues as I find them to be the most comfortable since traditional art has always been my hobby.

Cheers

[Mathieu]

I got the Tamiya spray cans and found it really hard to control the flow and pressure. A lot of paint is wasted and more than required gets applied on the surface. Was wondering if I could use airbrush instead so I have more control? To be honest I have not had much experience with airbrush but have used it in the past and can definitely say it feels much better than spraying from the can. But would it be possible to use primer with airbrush? Recommendations would be much appreciated.

With respect to art brush, I have no issues as I find them to be the most comfortable since traditional art has always been my hobby.

Cheers

I also did not have much experience with airbrushing before. I got myself the Revell "Starter Kit" with a air can... which, honestly spoken, sucks: The can gets extremly cold too fast, which has the consequence of not delivering "smooth" airflow. I then switch to the basic set with the small compressor (you should not pay more than 100 US$ for it), and this is just perfect.

Regarding the primer, yes, you have several manufacturers that gives you stuff specially designed for airbrushes: Personnaly, I use the Vallejo Acrylics line: They have primers (in different colors) directly airbrushable, and also a product called "Model Air" that gives you color that you can directly spray, without thinning.

The main problem that I see with brushes is that the paint coat is uneven, and you will tend to have more paint in corners for example, which might hide some details after 2-3 coats.

[STARK]

I also did not have much experience with airbrushing before. I got myself the Revell "Starter Kit" with a air can... which, honestly spoken, sucks: The can gets extremly cold too fast, which has the consequence of not delivering "smooth" airflow. I then switch to the basic set with the small compressor (you should not pay more than 100 US$ for it), and this is just perfect.

Regarding the primer, yes, you have several manufacturers that gives you stuff specially designed for airbrushes: Personnaly, I use the Vallejo Acrylics line: They have primers (in different colors) directly airbrushable, and also a product called "Model Air" that gives you color that you can directly spray, without thinning.

The main problem that I see with brushes is that the paint coat is uneven, and you will tend to have more paint in corners for example, which might hide some details after 2-3 coats.

Thanks for the info. I will check if the above mentioned brands are available here in NZ. Or will have to look for similar alternatives.

Even I had used the airbrush with air can and it made no sense. There was not much control either. I tried one with compressor at a local hobby store and that felt really good. But back then I did not find it fit to spend NZ$600 on the kit. Might think of investing in one now since the need seems to be there.

Since we are on this topic, may I ask that do you need to strip the paint of plastics before applying primer and the paint? In the past I had not so good experience with stripping paint of plastics. I tried using nail paint remover and it melted the plastic instead of stripping the paint. It was annoying. There are some blogs suggesting to use brown detol and immerse the parts in it for 1 week. Seems like a time consuming procedure.

I get what you are saying about using brush for painting on surfaces other than paper. It does get slightly uneven if you apply more than one coat.

[Ton]

may I ask that do you need to strip the paint of plastics before applying primer (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/lexikon/tag/primer/)

brake fluid or oven cleaner ( do you know Mr. Muscle down under?)

[superfly]

castrol superclean purple stuff

[STARK]

brake fluid or oven cleaner ( do you know Mr. Muscle down under?)

Yeah I know Mr.Muscle Oven cleaner. The hobby store recommended that I use the non-ozone one. Thanks for your recommendation.

[STARK]

castrol superclean purple stuff

Cheers will get both and see which works the best.

[Ton]

Cheers will get both and see which works the best.

Assuming that the sprue is painted too, use this for a try out! Put it in a plastic bag and add the oven cleaner and wait 24 hours. After that you should clean it thoroughly

[CitroenTA]

Fairy Power Spray works fine too. I have used it with good results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWWPnMvNZLs

[STARK]

Assuming that the sprue is painted too, use this for a try out! Put it in a plastic bag and add the oven cleaner and wait 24 hours. After that you should clean it thoroughly

Thanks for the tip. I now have the flexibility to try and see which one works the best.

Appreciate all the suggestions guys. Thanks again.

[Jo NZ]

Also Simple Green works well. Use it neat and immerse the part. It will strip acrylic paint in about 5 min, takes a bit longer for enamels like Al-clad. It won't damage the plastic either.

I get mine from Bunnings or Mitre 10.

[STARK]

Also Simple Green works well. Use it neat and immerse the part. It will strip acrylic paint in about 5 min, takes a bit longer for enamels like Al-clad. It won't damage the plastic either.

I get mine from Bunnings or Mitre 10.

Cool I will get one and keep as I will be using Alcad and in case I am not satisfied with the result, I can strip it off. Cheers.

[tommaso_iuele]

Hi all
I use brake fluid and works perfectly without brushing.... take about 2 hours... but leaves the surface nice and clean even in tiny difficult areas.

Tks

[DRZOOM68]

Finished the front subframe and attached it to the car.

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[HighEnder]

For me it looks like you have put a clear coat on the front sub-frame. Is there a reason behind?

[DRZOOM68]

For me it looks like you have put a clear coat on the front sub-frame. Is there a reason behind?

Hi Markus, the real car has the subframes in high gloss and not a matt color.
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[HighEnder]

Hi DRZOMM68,
I could afford the Pocher Lamborghini but I could not afford a real one. 1boho1
Thank you for providing the pictures.
As the exhaust system silencer is coated as well I thought that these parts were coated just for exhibition purposes.
But I checked it several You Tube videos.
The sub frame is high gloss coated.

[DRZOOM68]

Finished the rear end. Did carbon detail on the rear air vents. The panel alignement is excellent.
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Here is the fuel cap detail with the decal on the right place.
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[superfly]

excellent progress DrZoom....I can see that with just a few simple extras...like the carbon fiber decals ...really make this kit beautiful.

[HighEnder]

Hi DRZOMM68,

very detailled work. But let me raise a question.
On the pictures I clearly see two differnt shades of color. The real arangia argos (orange dark) and the flip flop color (orange light).
Have you re-painted the body or is it just the effect of the flash of your camera.

[DRZOOM68]

Hi DRZOMM68,

very detailled work. But let me raise a question.
On the pictures I clearly see two differnt shades of color. The real arangia argos (orange dark) and the flip flop color (orange light).
Have you re-painted the body or is it just the effect of the flash of your camera.

Thanks Markus, I have not repainted the body. It is from the flash. There is a small difference in gloss between the orange metal die cast parts and the orange plastic parts. When the model is ready I am going to wax it and I think that it then will disappear. Overall the color is quite good. You have to watch the scharp corners of the die cast parts because the paint chips easily.

[DRZOOM68]

Here a little progress.

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The front end is almost finished. It is already attached to the car.
I am now working on the doors.

[Guiddy]

Finished it yet?

[DRZOOM68]

Finished it yet?

No, not yet. it is about 95% ready. The doors are in place. Currently to busy with work.
1sad1