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STARK
12-11-13, 02:38 AM
Hi guys,

Starting this thread wherein I will post build progress pictures of my POCHER Aventador LP 700-4. Hope that is fine with you'll.

Thanks

Ton
12-11-13, 04:37 AM
Could you also give some tips, or describe problems you encounter?

STARK
12-11-13, 05:18 AM
Could you also give some tips, or describe problems you encounter?Yes I sure will. Thanks. :)

STARK
12-11-13, 05:33 AM
Just finished the steering and dash section. This particular assembly took bit longer than expected.

Reason: Water Decals application.... They are so tiny and my fingers are not small either. It would have been much better if this section came pre-stamped or painted with those logos. For me it was pain in the ass but some of you may be used to it and won't find it that difficult.

Tips: Either ask your wife/girlfriend to help you with it or modelling tweezers and 1.4mm screw driver might just come in handy. Personally I don't think such tiny stickers would be visible once the car is completely assembled. Below is the progress pic.

Thanks.

DRZOOM68
12-11-13, 10:35 AM
You are quick. Just checked the contents of the box. I did not expect that the frame was also diecast.

STARK
12-11-13, 06:15 PM
You are quick. Just checked the contents of the box. I did not expect that the frame was also diecast.

Yup pretty happy with the kit so far. It is solid and doesn't feel cheap. Good-luck with the assembly.

superfly
12-11-13, 09:04 PM
Amazing progress so far....Did you have to glue/cement any of these parts?...Or are they all screwed together?.....I was thinking of buying those plastic shot (drinking) cups to keep all the different screws, and small bits in...easier then fishing them out of the tiny plastic bags.

Stark did your kit come with a photo CD?

STARK
12-11-13, 10:59 PM
Amazing progress so far....Did you have to glue/cement any of these parts?...Or are they all screwed together?.....I was thinking of buying those plastic shot (drinking) cups to keep all the different screws, and small bits in...easier then fishing them out of the tiny plastic bags.

Stark did your kit come with a photo CD?

Thanks. Yes you need to use cement as some parts do not click in. The assembly manual has instructions where and on which part to use the cement.

Good idea to keep everything organised but really depends if you want to go and buy something specially for this. I use spare plastic boxes if I need to. But in the case of this kit I don't think it is necessary because the screws are well organised and come in small labelled plastic bags. Just make a slight diagonal cut on each bag so you can easily remove the required number of screws for the build.

The kit did not come with a photo CD.

Cheers

STARK
12-11-13, 11:07 PM
Again similar issue with the Water Decals but it was not as bad as the steering and dash. Make sure you use a soft cloth or foam underneath when you are assembling this. It is heavy and might scratch the paint if laid on a hard surface.

superfly
12-11-13, 11:46 PM
Excellent progress...I will be following your build all the way...Still a couple weeks before I get mine (Bianco Isis)..I really thinking about re-painting it Nero Nemesis...(matt black)
Oh..are there call-outs for paint on the instruction booklet for those who might want to paint some of the parts?

STARK
12-12-13, 12:18 AM
Excellent progress...I will be following your build all the way...Still a couple weeks before I get mine (Bianco Isis)..I really thinking about re-painting it Nero Nemesis...(matt black)Oh..are there call-outs for paint on the instruction booklet for those who might want to paint some of the parts?Thanks. Regarding re-paint, I am surely considering it but really don't feel like stripping of the original paint, specially when you have paid so much for the kit. But I will be looking at some other alternatives which don't require painting. Will keep posted once I make a call on that. The instructions booklet is sadly not detailed. It just has part numbers and diagrams but no description. It would have been better if there were small notes besides each section of the build.

STARK
12-12-13, 12:20 AM
Here is the next section.

STARK
12-12-13, 12:46 AM
Since I am configuring it to be RHD, here is the floor section with brake and accelerator pedals. This assembly requires cement.

STARK
12-12-13, 01:17 AM
This was fun build. The steering and dash section is bit tricky to get in but you just need to go slow and be patient. Looking good so far.

STARK
12-12-13, 01:36 AM
Done with the monocoque and it looks pretty cool.

roymattblack
12-12-13, 04:16 AM
It's looking really nice so far. I'm waiting for my orange kit to arrive.
I'm currently building the Pocher Rolls Royce Phantom Torpedo and it is SERIOUSLY complex and detailed.
The Lambo by comparison looks worryingly simple and quick to build.
Is there scope for extra detailing, or is it really Ģ500 (I'm in the UK) that only takes a week to build?
For me, building the model is the whole point, so for such a large sum of money, I was hoping it would be a real 'project'.
I don't want a mega-money display piece after a few days.

Roy.

superfly
12-12-13, 06:07 AM
RoyYou can still do lots more with this kit....I'm sure if you paint the interior, and add carpeting, make the seats move forward and tilt, make the seat belts actually lock,...custom floor mats, make working lights and signals and instrument panel.....have actual music playing from the speakers using and old mp3player(ipod shuffle). make the door windows work. Carbon fiber decal the monocoque and the trim pieces..thats should slow your build down....Alcading the exhaust system...and air brushing the heat stains could bring the model that extra realisim.Aswell as finding material that looks like heat shielding for the firewall.

STARK
12-12-13, 06:19 AM
It's looking really nice so far. I'm waiting for my orange kit to arrive.
I'm currently building the Pocher Rolls Royce Phantom Torpedo and it is SERIOUSLY complex and detailed.
The Lambo by comparison looks worryingly simple and quick to build.
Is there scope for extra detailing, or is it really Ģ500 (I'm in the UK) that only takes a week to build?
For me, building the model is the whole point, so for such a large sum of money, I was hoping it would be a real 'project'.
I don't want a mega-money display piece after a few days.

Roy.

Thanks and hope your orange kit arrives soon.

As for the comparison, I am not really sure. The spoke details on wheels of RR Phantom II 1934 model kit itself are very complex and time consuming. As for the Aventador kit it is pretty much straight forward. So far haven't come across anything that is way too complex. But lets see how it goes as I progress through the build.

Subjectively speaking, overall the model does not look cheap and I am pretty satisfied with what I paid for it. Once it is complete, it will be an expensive display piece no doubt but from the beginning I was more interested in the completed product than the assembly. Would've still purchased even if it was not a kit.

STARK
12-12-13, 07:13 AM
This took slightly longer than I expected. But another fun build in progress. Calling it a day now as it is past 12:00pm here and have to get up early. Will post more updates once I get back on it tomorrow. Cheers and thanks for checking the progress.

DRZOOM68
12-12-13, 07:27 AM
Stark, nice build already.

Roy I have also the orange Aventador and I am going to detail the interior. I'm choosing for a dark grey color with the orange inserts. About detailing the engine and gearbox I have my doubts. The issue here is that when the model is build the only thing you see is the air intake from above under the rear bonnet and the exhaust tail pipes because under the bottom of the car there is a huge flat aerodynamic plate that covers al the technical stuff. I think I'm only going to paint the engine to make it look better.

superfly
12-12-13, 08:16 AM
I wonder if can display the engine outside of the car? or perhaps Pocher will sell the V-12 engine alone so we can have one in the car and one out?....I was thinking of casting a resin copy of the engine....for this purpose.

SVtrackhead
12-12-13, 08:49 AM
Stark,

Thanks so much for the progress pics, here in the US we are still literally waiting for our ship to come in. I believe our container ship was delayed so as not to have our kits arrive before the EU kits.
Can you specifically offer your opinion of the body paint?

Superfly,
The photo DVD/CD is exclusive to those to ordered from two US dealers. 1hey1
I plan on displaying the engine outside the car, and partly for this purpose the first transkit will specifically address the engine, as well as those rear shocks that are so prominent in the engine bay. I'm sure Uli at Autograph will eventually offer a phenomenal transkit, but with his fanatical approach it may be a year or two.

roymattblack,

The kit has comparable detail to the Pocher Ferrari kits, but with better fit and finish. It is not intended to approach the detail of the old Classic kits, but better quality and eventual transkits will hopefully let you still enjoy the build. I love building the Classic kits, especially the wheels, but you don't really enjoy building that diabolical R-R transmission housing linkage, do you? 1confused1

Brady

superfly
12-12-13, 09:28 AM
Brady...put me down for a transkit! Perhaps some metal and photo-etched rotors and photo-etch emblems to replace flat decals??? Regards, Renato

Cobra 56
12-12-13, 09:29 AM
I bought my model by Uli at Autograph. So far i know, he has no plans about a transkit in the moment. A transkit would be nice, but surely also very expensive and time comsuming to make. It will also delay the buildingprocess, because i think it will be nearly unpossible to mount the transkit, on a finished model.

SVtrackhead
12-12-13, 10:17 AM
I bought my model by Uli at Autograph. So far i know, he has no plans about a transkit in the moment. A transkit would be nice, but surely also very expensive and time comsuming to make.I think Uli is also busy with his Jaguar kit. His work is usually expensive, time consuming, and worth the price for the quality.
It will also delay the buildingprocess, because i think it will be nearly unpossible to mount the transkit, on a finished model.Like the F40 kit, disassembly time should be trivial compared to the time and effort required to add a good transkit, even if there is more glue to overcome. We will try to avoid complete disassembly if possible, and will be able to assess this when we build our own models.

Ton
12-12-13, 12:34 PM
I think Uli is also busy with his Jaguar kit.

I understood the project stopped

Cobra 56
12-12-13, 12:54 PM
Autograph 1/8 Engine kit JAGUAR C-Type Le Mans 1951, 790,00 €, w (http://shop.autographmodel.com/Autograph-1-8-Engine-kit-JAGUAR-C-Type-Le-Mans-1951)

Ton
12-12-13, 03:04 PM
Autograph 1/8 Engine kit JAGUAR C-Type Le Mans 1951, 790,00 €, w (http://shop.autographmodel.com/Autograph-1-8-Engine-kit-JAGUAR-C-Type-Le-Mans-1951)

Correct but Uli initially had plans to build the entire car ( chassis, aluminium body pre-painted) and those plans stopped

STARK
12-12-13, 04:08 PM
Stark,

Thanks so much for the progress pics, here in the US we are still literally waiting for our ship to come in. I believe our container ship was delayed so as not to have our kits arrive before the EU kits.
Can you specifically offer your opinion of the body paint?


Brady

Brady,

You're welcome mate. Hope you receive your kit soon.

Coming to the body paint, I really liked the overall finish. It is glossy and there are no dreadful air bubbles on the edges or bends. I had some bad experience with this type of paint finish in the past. Then again the kit is not cheap either. When you pay good money for it, you expect quality and this kit delivers that perfectly.

Cheers

Cobra 56
12-13-13, 04:06 AM
Correct but Uli initially had plans to build the entire car ( chassis, aluminium body pre-painted) and those plans stopped

Bad news a kit of the whole car in the quality from Autograph Model would be great. Back to the Lamborghini tread, i will get mine first in Next week.

STARK
12-14-13, 02:17 AM
Ok so decided to take off the assembled monocoque and add details to the dash. Went with the carbon fiber finish. Should look good once done.

Ton
12-14-13, 04:28 AM
Is this CF finish an option or is it your choice?

STARK
12-14-13, 04:46 AM
Is this CF finish an option or is it your choice?No this is my choice. Adding some custom touches.

STARK
12-14-13, 05:59 AM
Ok so here is the finished look of the dash. Pretty happy with it so far.

Ton
12-14-13, 08:25 AM
To be honest I don't like the looks of it but it is a very smooth job!

superfly
12-14-13, 11:06 AM
Stark...where did you get the CF decal? and what scale is the decal?...I would like to do some of the trim pieces and enigine cover.

You are progressing nicely on the the Aventador...

STARK
12-14-13, 05:13 PM
To be honest I don't like the looks of it but it is a very smooth job!

Yup it is it depends on individual taste. But thanks for appreciating my work. Cheers.

STARK
12-14-13, 05:23 PM
Stark...where did you get the CF decal? and what scale is the decal?...I would like to do some of the trim pieces and enigine cover.You are progressing nicely on the the Aventador...Got it from local hobby store. Have attached the pic below so you can check your local store or order online from Hasegawa. I will also be adding details to the engine bits but I guess for the interior that will be all. Might do the centre console in CF finish but in two minds. Thanks for checking on the progress though. Cheers.

STARK
12-14-13, 09:10 PM
Added CF finish to the center console trim.

STARK
12-14-13, 09:39 PM
OK so so here is a problem. The assembly manual shows you need to insert the seat belts through the slot but there is no hole or gap. It is just embossed in the mould. Is that a manufacturing defect or it is meant to be like that? I will now have to make the gaps myself and then fix the seat belts accordingly. This is bit disappointing.

superfly
12-14-13, 09:45 PM
Strange area for the seatbelt...I thought they'd be further back from the seat.

Dougritt
12-14-13, 10:15 PM
Very nice instrument area! I have been looking forward to someone building this model...thanks for posting. I like the carbon fiber dash by the way!

Noddy
12-14-13, 11:09 PM
Is this CF finish an option or is it your choice?

Just for the record the only carbon fiber interior trim pieces available from the factory are the door handles, the center console trim and the extension coming out from the instrument binnacle. Aftermarket parts include the shift paddles.

24899

STARK
12-14-13, 11:13 PM
Strange area for the seatbelt...I thought they'd be further back from the seat.There is actually a gap further behind where I had first inserted the seat belts. But good I re-checked and for some weird reason it is not the right one. So now made a gap using screw driver and hammer. Still feel it is a manufacturing defect.

Noddy
12-14-13, 11:14 PM
OK so so here is a problem. The assembly manual shows you need to insert the seat belts through the slot but there is no hole or gap. It is just embossed in the mould. Is that a manufacturing defect or it is meant to be like that? I will now have to make the gaps myself and then fix the seat belts accordingly. This is bit disappointing.

The belts do not pass through the seat.

STARK
12-14-13, 11:15 PM
Very nice instrument area! I have been looking forward to someone building this model...thanks for posting. I like the carbon fiber dash by the way!Thanks mate. Glad you like it.

STARK
12-14-13, 11:22 PM
Just for the record the only carbon fiber interior trim pieces available from the factory are the door handles, the center console trim and the extension coming out from the instrument binnacle. Aftermarket parts include the shift paddles.24899But some few out there for whom money is not a problem , they can always get things custom made as per their liking.

STARK
12-14-13, 11:26 PM
The engine is in progress. Should be done soon as it is not looking too complicated.

Jetjock
12-15-13, 03:44 PM
Hi Stark, think it is a wrong drawing for the seatbelts.
They should be more to the back. The area where you think it would go is ( I think) the door opener.
http://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/testdrive/gallery/medium/lamborghini-aventador-test-drive-2012-medium_64.jpg?v=920

superfly
12-15-13, 03:51 PM
Hi Stark, think it is a wrong drawing for the seatbelts.
They should be more to the back. The area where you think it would go is ( I think) the door opener.
http://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/testdrive/gallery/medium/lamborghini-aventador-test-drive-2012-medium_64.jpg?v=920

You are correct..it is the door release.

STARK
12-15-13, 04:43 PM
Hi Stark, think it is a wrong drawing for the seatbelts.
They should be more to the back. The area where you think it would go is ( I think) the door opener.
http://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/testdrive/gallery/medium/lamborghini-aventador-test-drive-2012-medium_64.jpg?v=920

Too late to make changes. I have already made rectangular holes in that area. Once again pretty disappointing to have such defects and incorrect diagrams.

And there is more. Last night I hit a bump with the engine assembly. Had to use heat gun to mould parts just to make them fit. Was not at all a hasty decision. Spent almost 2hrs just to make sure I was following the instructions properly before I decided to go ahead with the heat application. Did not expect to come across such issues when you pay so much. 1no1

Guiddy
12-15-13, 04:59 PM
Well, taking the plunge to build the first one here means we will learn from you!

Seatbelts clearly sit at the bottom of the seat though!

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2013/12/1.jpg?v=920

superfly
12-15-13, 05:01 PM
Can you post pics...to show what you did? and what was the issue in the instruction booklet?

Jetjock
12-15-13, 05:26 PM
Well just finished the cockpit, am happy with the result.
Just the rear window should have had a different connection.

Btw, are MT01 and MT02 floor mats? Can't find them anywhere in the book.

STARK
12-15-13, 06:46 PM
Well, taking the plunge to build the first one here means we will learn from you!

Seatbelts clearly sit at the bottom of the seat though!

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2013/12/1.jpg?v=920

I would like to be of as much help as possible. Will post some pics of the diagram and the hole that I made following it.

STARK
12-15-13, 06:48 PM
Can you post pics...to show what you did? and what was the issue in the instruction booklet?

I won't be able to post the pics of the engine stuff as I have already bent couple of parts and assembled them. But I will be uploading a few pics of it soon. But regarding the seat belt, I will upload the pic of the diagram as well. Thanks.

STARK
12-15-13, 06:50 PM
Well just finished the cockpit, am happy with the result.
Just the rear window should have had a different connection.

Btw, are MT01 and MT02 floor mats? Can't find them anywhere in the book.

Maybe the floor mats go in last. I was wondering if they need to be glued in but the instruction does not say so during the monocoque assembly. I hope it is not another defect...

STARK
12-15-13, 07:00 PM
Here is the diagram and what I have already done following it. If you guys think it is a defect in the printing and wrong place to have seat belts then please don't follow the manual and make any holes as I have done.

STARK
12-15-13, 07:13 PM
And here is the engine issue. As you can see it does not fit and needs heat to bend it so as to make it fit. I tried doing it without bending but did not succeed.

Egon
12-15-13, 07:47 PM
I think you should write Pocher and ask them why they have defective parts and wrong seatbelts location. 1no1
Ask them to send parts that fit and new sidepanels where you made holes for the seatbelts

STARK
12-15-13, 07:58 PM
I think you should write Pocher and ask them why they have defective parts and wrong seatbelts location. 1no1
Ask them to send parts that fit and new sidepanels where you made holes for the seatbelts

I might do so as I am slowly getting annoyed with the issues. Lets see how it goes and if there are too many issues as I progress along, I will definitely be complaining to them.

Egon
12-15-13, 08:07 PM
Pocher should be told there is something wrong with there kits, mayby they can correct these issues, and recall kits with these problems

STARK
12-15-13, 08:29 PM
Pocher should be told there is something wrong with there kits, mayby they can correct these issues, and recall kits with these problems

I doubt they will recall. Would be great if they do but it seems farfetched.

superfly
12-15-13, 08:35 PM
Stark...I don't think that is correct...where you have punched a hole for the seatbelt is actually..the door release....this is what unlocks the doors....there must be an anchor on the firewall behind the seats and another one by the floor.

The finished model on the Pocher's FB ...The seat belts looks correct.... the instructions are definitely wrong...perhaps there is a correction sheet elsewhere included with the instruction sheet?

STARK
12-15-13, 08:43 PM
Stark...I don't think that is correct...where you have punched a hole for the seatbelt is actually..the door release....this is what unlocks the doors....there must be an anchor on the firewall behind the seats and another one by the floor.

The finished model on the Pocher's FB ...The seat belts looks correct.... the instructions are definitely wrong...perhaps there is a correction sheet elsewhere included with the instruction sheet?

Nope that is the only instruction/assembly manual that came with the kit. And I am not happy with it as I am progressing through the build.

spinellid82
12-15-13, 10:46 PM
I am sorry to hear about the troubles. What a bummer and I didn't even buy one!

superfly
12-15-13, 11:14 PM
Tamiya, Hasegawa, Trumpeter, Revell, Eduard, HK Models...have all had incorrect instructions...I would recommend having reference photos or watch walk around videos of the real Aventador if something looks off...it does happen that instructions have errors. Lots of test-fitting before committing is always a safe bet.

bart
12-16-13, 12:24 AM
Return the kit, you are a customer afterall !!

carlitosracing
12-16-13, 04:03 AM
Hi Stark,

I think itīs again a typo in the manual. The references of the manifolds in the manual are swapped. I took some photos when I was assembling the engine

2490524906

So far I spotted 3 mistakes in the manual. Iīll list them below as I think this can be of help for some of us.

- Lower seat belt slot not shown correctly
- Lamborghini badge on the dashboard should be MS-01 instead of MS-02
- Exhaust manifold references are swapped. Iīd suggest to pre-assemble them without cement first.

Other than that, so far so good (Iīm almost finishing).

I agree with you that there should be no mistakes on the manual, but having worked on technical manuals and bearing in mind that this must be the first batch, Iīm pretty satisfied with the manual. Pocher must some how publish a list of errors sheet.

roymattblack
12-16-13, 04:26 AM
Many thanks for the info re: mistakes in the instructions.
Can you please explain a bit more clearly what the errors are with the exhausts and what it should be like?.......

My kit turns up this week and I'll definitely be making a note of everything you have found, or have yet to find out.

Roy.

Jetjock
12-16-13, 04:35 AM
Thanks Carlito,
Guess I overlooked the MS01 issue and put right away the MS02 on the dash :-).
The seat belt hole looks correct on the kit, just not in the diagram. Stark, just be aware that the seats in the real life picture are in the forward position.

Will dry fit the exhaust when I get to it tonight or tomorrow.

Gallardo
12-16-13, 09:42 AM
Hi guys,

I have bought my Pocher kit today. As soon as I've arrived at home, I've checked quickly all the pieces and everything looks great. I was worried about the finding of the mistake with the position of the belts, but as soon as I have seen the piece, I have seen the two slots for the belt. It's clearly a mistake in the instructions booklet, but the kit itself is O.K. This is the piece of the interior, where the belt must be assembled:24907

superfly
12-16-13, 10:27 AM
Hi guys,

I have bought my Pocher kit today. As soon as I've arrived at home, I've checked quickly all the pieces and everything looks great. I was worried about the finding of the mistake with the position of the belts, but as soon as I have seen the piece, I have seen the two slots for the belt. It's clearly a mistake in the instructions booklet, but the kit itself is O.K. This is the piece of the interior, where the belt must be assembled:24907

Can you post a pic with the belt installed? I see the slot right at the bottom...looks like the correct location to loop the seatbelt...instructions are definitely incorrect.

carlitosracing
12-16-13, 02:04 PM
Many thanks for the info re: mistakes in the instructions.Can you please explain a bit more clearly what the errors are with the exhausts and what it should be like?.......My kit turns up this week and I'll definitely be making a note of everything you have found, or have yet to find out.Roy.If I remember correctly, the mistake is on page 14. ref. O-06 should be O-07 and viceversa. The assembly of these parts may be a bit tricky. I'd suggest to cut the manifold parts one by one from the sprue in order not to mix them and make a first attempt without cement. Hope this helps.

STARK
12-17-13, 01:00 AM
Ok so unscrewed the assembled parts and fixed the seat belts. Also managed to seal the holes that I made following the stupid instruction manual. And added CF finish to that area. Looks fine but wish the manual had correct instruction.

STARK
12-17-13, 01:08 AM
And this is what it looks like after putting it together.

superfly
12-17-13, 02:13 AM
Stark...i think they give you long pieces for the seat belt material that you trim after installing...you should pull them taught and then tie off then....(cut off excess?). the seatbelts should look more retracted.

STARK
12-17-13, 02:21 AM
Stark...i think they give you long pieces for the seat belt material that you trim after installing...you should pull them taught and then tie off then....(cut off excess?). the seatbelts should look more retracted.

No i did not trim them. They are the same size as they were packaged. And I don't think there is need to cut them to length as you can adjust the knot and just tuck the excess behind and then screw it back so it is not seen.

tommaso_iuele
12-17-13, 03:45 AM
Hi everyone
I'm new here, but just to let you guys know I will be producing a transkit highly detailed for the AVENTADOR.
Some people already know me on other sites and on my website, probably there will be a lot of photoecth parts for the interior and engine....if the budget allows me to go futher I will provide opening roof and new rims (roadster version). Just wanted to drop some news. Plans... for the nest 2 months.
All the best Tommaso
1thumbup1

STARK
12-17-13, 05:01 AM
Hi everyone
I'm new here, but just to let you guys know I will be producing a transkit highly detailed for the AVENTADOR.
Some people already know me on other sites and on my website, probably there will be a lot of photoecth parts for the interior and engine....if the budget allows me to go futher I will provide opening roof and new rims (roadster version). Just wanted to drop some news. Plans... for the nest 2 months.
All the best Tommaso
1thumbup1

Sounds great mate. Could you provide your website so we can keep in touch with the updates on the transkit? Thanks.

superfly
12-17-13, 09:59 AM
Tommaso...the Aventador Roadster has a different engine bonnet...will that be included? or will it be a Targa Top only?The Roadster's rims are nice! very aggressive!....and photo-etch is always welcomed. Looks like the emblems are flat decals on the kit.

Noddy
12-17-13, 10:44 AM
Sounds great mate. Could you provide your website so we can keep in touch with the updates on the transkit? Thanks.

Tommaso Iuele | Model maker (http://tommasoiuele.wordpress.com/)

tommaso_iuele
12-17-13, 02:01 PM
Tommaso Iuele | Model maker (http://tommasoiuele.wordpress.com)

all the best.
Tommaso
1hey1

tommaso_iuele
12-17-13, 02:06 PM
I'm still working on which direction I will pursue. Of course I will do something that others haven't done.
Just like model makers say "The devil is in the detail". I will keep you all updated. Cant wait to start.....
1nworthy1

carlitosracing
12-18-13, 06:06 AM
Hi all,

Pocher just posted on Facebook that they have uploaded an updated assembly manual on his website. I had a quick look at it and it seems that all mistakes I listed have been corrected. Maybe more that I didnīt notice.

http://www.pocher.com/index_en.php#downloads

Egon
12-18-13, 08:35 AM
Look at page 8, still wrong and there is no top on front diff. to cheap. 1no1

STARK
12-18-13, 05:58 PM
Look at page 8, still wrong and there is no top on front diff. to cheap. 1no1

This is annoying and very disappointing. I also noticed that they now have added instructions on water temperature and how to twist the screw driver...

carlitosracing
12-19-13, 02:58 AM
Well, I finished the assembly of my first kit yesterday (I have already ordered the orange one gringrin) . I agree with Egon that the front diff. could have been designed much better, this is definetely not the best detail of hte car, but, generally speaking, I would say that the quality of the kit is very good. Once everything is assembled it has an awsome look. Iīll post some pics later. I must say that Iīve really enjoyed the assembly process.

Stark, Iīve compared the revised manual with the one included with my kit. The part of the manual where the assembly of the seatbelts is explained has been revised and now it shows the correct slot where the belts have to pass through. itīs nevertheless true that the next views where the belts are shown still remain unchanged, but I think the assembly is now pretty clear.

There are some more indications in the revised instructions than in the previous manual of "how to twist the screw driver", but, in my opinion, what itīs trying to show is that you should screw all the way in and then slacken 180š, so that the parts donīt get stuck. If you watch it, this indication only appears next to suspension parts which need to be a bit loose.

Jetjock
12-19-13, 05:42 AM
The correct way is shown on page 7 about the seatbelts, the illustration on page 8 is not changed (a pity).

Is it me or are the suspension parts (lower and upper arm) on step 21 the opposite?

superfly
12-19-13, 08:18 AM
Carlito...Is there any other issues other than the ones already mentioned? how's the ride height..can it be adjusted?....how about the panel gaps?how good are the functioning parts?.....Does the paint match up on the body parts?

STARK
12-20-13, 12:14 AM
Ok so here is another printing error I have come across. Please observe the two pictures and you will see the mistake. And the disappointing thing is that there is not much difference in the revised manual. I cross checked both and they have exact same diagrams.

STARK
12-20-13, 12:26 AM
And given all the problems encountered so far, this is finally done.

jfonticobal
12-20-13, 02:36 AM
I am sorry but I couldnīt see the mistake. Would you explain me please?

roymattblack
12-20-13, 04:16 AM
Love what's going on here, and it's good to see what it all looks like but I have to say I'm astounded that people are building this mega-expensive kit straight OOB, and in such a hurry.
No detailing, nothing painted, build it quick.

Please - this is not a criticism or whinge - it's an opinion.
Mine is still boxed awaiting work when I've finished my current build but it will be a long, slow project to savour, not finish in a few days.
It was too expensive for me to do that.

That aside though, it's ace that you guys are picking up the mistakes etc and keeping us all informed.

Pat on the back all round.

Roy.

STARK
12-20-13, 05:47 AM
I am sorry but I couldnīt see the mistake. Would you explain me please?I have circles the mistake. Hope it helps.

STARK
12-20-13, 05:54 AM
Love what's going on here, and it's good to see what it all looks like but I have to say I'm astounded that people are building this mega-expensive kit straight OOB, and in such a hurry.No detailing, nothing painted, build it quick.Please - this is not a criticism or whinge - it's an opinion.Mine is still boxed awaiting work when I've finished my current build but it will be a long, slow project to savour, not finish in a few days.It was too expensive for me to do that.That aside though, it's ace that you guys are picking up the mistakes etc and keeping us all informed.Pat on the back all round.Roy.Hi Roy,This kit is expensive but not difficult to build. The problem is it just comes with wrong instructions and needs to be crossed checked before finalising the fit with cement. As I have progressed through the build, I have realised that it is better not to completely depend on the manual. If something is seeming out of place, double or triple check. It is disappointing no doubt but still it is fun to build. Cheers.

D833 Panther
12-20-13, 07:11 AM
I'm fairly new to modelling, built many plastic airfix kits as a kid but this Pocher model is a big step up so please excuse my basic questions. Reading this forum thread has been a real help, particularly with the instruction booklet errors, but what I found the biggest problem was findng out exactly what type of glue to use for the different types of pieces, as there's no guidance in the instructions.I decided to first visit my local model shop for some advice and came away with some "Plastic Weld" which the bottle says is Dichloromethane. This was recommended for fixing plastic to plastic and works well, being applied with a small brush and it literally melts the plastic together very neatly.For other fixings such as plastic to metal I was given some "Roket Rapid fast setting medium viscosity cyano glue" which seems to be what I would call super glue, again seems to do the job.I was a little concerned when I came to glue the plastic window into the rear of the cabin as I know some glues can cause whitening or crazing to clear plastic so I first tried a little of the cyano glue on a piece of clear sprue and it dried clear. I then used the glue to fix the rear cabin window, first squeezing a little onto a piece of scrap board before applying tiny amounts neatly to the metal edge of the model with a small stick before pushing the clear plastic window into place. All seemed ok and I went on to fit out the interior of the cabin. However when I returned a couple of hours later I found the window had been turned white in a couple of the corners by a reaction with the glue I assume - gutted! (I've uploaded a photo but won't let me attach it for some reason)Can anybody help with how I can fix this or how I can stop it happening again. The build has come to a halt until I can reslove this problem as if the same thing happens with one of the outer windows the model will be completely ruined.

Ton
12-20-13, 08:08 AM
If glue is needed for clear parts it can best be done with wood glue. It keeps windows, lenses of the lights in place ( but does not glue it) and is completely transparent. Super glue whitens and is best used for solid parts of different materials when strength is not important. If you have to glue metal and plastic together which are under strength (e.g suspension) use 2 components epoxy glue.

SVtrackhead
12-20-13, 08:40 AM
Love what's going on here, and it's good to see what it all looks like but I have to say I'm astounded that people are building this mega-expensive kit straight OOB, and in such a hurry.
No detailing, nothing painted, build it quick.I'll be doing my usual with a new kit; banzai all-nighter stock build to familiarize myself, before total disassembly and adding paint and details.

That aside though, it's ace that you guys are picking up the mistakes etc and keeping us all informed.yes, thanks to those of you building and posting so soon to help us all get a feel for it.


However when I returned a couple of hours later I found the window had been turned white in a couple of the corners by a reaction with the glue I assume - gutted! (I've uploaded a photo but won't let me attach it for some reason)Can anybody help with how I can fix this or how I can stop it happening again. The build has come to a halt until I can reslove this problem as if the same thing happens with one of the outer windows the model will be completely ruined.It's best to keep CA glue far away from clear parts. I've heard coating the parts with a good wax will prevent the fogging, but I haven't tried it. The fogging will be worst where the fumes can't dissipate, i.e. the interior of windows, light lenses, etc. Try using a good car wax to remove the white fog off your parts as well, it may take a few applications.

If glue is needed for clear parts it can best be done with wood glue. It keeps windows, lenses of the lights in place ( but does not glue it) and is completely transparent. Super glue whitens and is best used for solid parts of different materials when strength is not important. If you have to glue metal and plastic together which are under strength (e.g suspension) use 2 components epoxy glue. Judicious use of rubber cement (apply to both surfaces and let dry before pressing together) or thin strips of clear double-faced tape are other options for the clear parts.

roymattblack
12-20-13, 08:58 AM
I'm fairly new to modelling, built many plastic airfix kits as a kid but this Pocher model is a big step up so please excuse my basic questions. Reading this forum thread has been a real help, particularly with the instruction booklet errors, but what I found the biggest problem was findng out exactly what type of glue to use for the different types of pieces, as there's no guidance in the instructions.I decided to first visit my local model shop for some advice and came away with some "Plastic Weld" which the bottle says is Dichloromethane. This was recommended for fixing plastic to plastic and works well, being applied with a small brush and it literally melts the plastic together very neatly.For other fixings such as plastic to metal I was given some "Roket Rapid fast setting medium viscosity cyano glue" which seems to be what I would call super glue, again seems to do the job.I was a little concerned when I came to glue the plastic window into the rear of the cabin as I know some glues can cause whitening or crazing to clear plastic so I first tried a little of the cyano glue on a piece of clear sprue and it dried clear. I then used the glue to fix the rear cabin window, first squeezing a little onto a piece of scrap board before applying tiny amounts neatly to the metal edge of the model with a small stick before pushing the clear plastic window into place. All seemed ok and I went on to fit out the interior of the cabin. However when I returned a couple of hours later I found the window had been turned white in a couple of the corners by a reaction with the glue I assume - gutted! (I've uploaded a photo but won't let me attach it for some reason)Can anybody help with how I can fix this or how I can stop it happening again. The build has come to a halt until I can reslove this problem as if the same thing happens with one of the outer windows the model will be completely ruined.


Use methylated spirit on a cotton bud.
The fogging wipes off easily.

Roy.

superfly
12-20-13, 10:08 AM
people dip there clear plastic parts in future floor polish....it prevents fogging ....also clears up minor scratches....if you dip clear parts while still on their sprues...it prevents splinters when you cut them off sprue.

D833 Panther
12-20-13, 10:11 AM
Thanks Ton, The parts are not under strength, just need keeping in place so I'll try some experiments wood glue. I wondered about using clear silicon sealant, the type used to fix real car windscreens in place, or seal round bathroom showers, only trouble is that it can be really messy and sticky and I'm not sure my skill is up to it, however it could easily be removed for a second attempt. Thanks also to Roy and Superfly, I'll definately try some testing with both methods. Cheers Sim

Val33
12-20-13, 10:26 AM
I use a lot of this: Evo-stik Serious Glue - Super strong fix and repair adhesive
(http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Serious-Glue/16)Not just for modelling. It's stronger than silicone and much easier to use.

I've got my Aventador kit sitting under the tree waiting till Santa says I can open it 1gramps1

I've also got four unopened classic Pocher kits in the cellar and an Alfa 2300 Monza to finish. I've not touched it for four years, but the new release has woken up the modelling bug gringrin

Val

superfly
12-20-13, 10:38 AM
Roy I'm with you...definately painting the parts....decals need to sealed to protect them....might try "suede" in spray can for interior parts....paint color inserts on the doors..seats and centre console.......Toying with the idea of adding an "anti glare" tint to the windows and headlights...like on modern fighter jets...Carbon fiber some parts and clear coating.Cigarette foil for heat shielding in the engine area and firewall...Painted coils........Lots of things that can be done to the basic kit...I've decided to go with Matt Black...so im gonna repaint the car....

superfly
12-20-13, 11:31 AM
Looks like double sided tape is provided to adhere the windshield so no glue is required...I'm guessing it would be the same to most of the clear parts...the door windows are attached by screws to the door....so again no glue is required.

Looking at Aventador's service manual...It looks like the top halves of both differentials are not that complex...one could scratch build them...a little scrap styrene, filing and sanding, paint and you should be able to improve it...I don't think its worth getting an aftermarket resin piece for this (if someone happens to make one).

Guiddy
12-20-13, 02:47 PM
Hi guys. You want to use Microsol Krystal clear for clear parts. Made for the job and if you re-wet it softens and can be removed again...
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2013/12/89.jpg

Val33
12-20-13, 08:16 PM
I see lots of detailing to do here!

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/500/medium/2012-lamborghini-aventador-LP-700-4-engine.jpg

Looks like spending plenty of time collecting images on google will pay big dividends gringrin.

Val

roymattblack
12-21-13, 05:39 AM
Looking at the instructions and the kit parts, it seems is if the whole rear section need not be screwed in place. It could then just be lifted off to show all the rear end.
When I build mine, I'm going to try doing it that way.

Roy.

Ton
12-21-13, 06:21 AM
Looking at the instructions and the kit parts, it seems is if the whole rear section need not be screwed in place. It could then just be lifted off to show all the rear end.
When I build mine, I'm going to try doing it that way.

In real life it can be lifted off too

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2013/12/93.jpg

gringrin

Egon
12-21-13, 08:49 AM
I think I saw that accident on Youtube somewhere.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDJ1QPzUBqg

Jetjock
12-21-13, 11:28 AM
Looking at the instructions and the kit parts, it seems is if the whole rear section need not be screwed in place.


Only 4 screws hold the back section.

andylam16
12-23-13, 12:33 AM
I still waiting for my kit to come, don't know when will be arrive. 1sad1

SVtrackhead
12-23-13, 10:48 AM
I still waiting for my kit to come, don't know when will be arrive. 1sad1You know I'm trying Andy. I will send out an update later today after I have talked to Hornby. 1blaaa1

Noddy
12-23-13, 12:01 PM
You know I'm trying Andy. I will send out an update later today after I have talked to Hornby. 1blaaa1
The truck they are on isn't being driven by Jarrett from "Shipping Wars" is it? 1thumbup1

superfly
12-23-13, 06:59 PM
Lets bring it back to the build in progress....lol...Come on guys lets see some more build pics...I know the holidays are here...but thats no excuse!

I'm just kidding

tommaso_iuele
12-24-13, 02:26 AM
heheh..... a little bit of patient's and you will see some great detailing.
Starting to draw the first photoecth parts.
Happy holidays to everyone here.
T.1thumbup1

CitroenTA
12-24-13, 04:13 AM
1clap1

roymattblack
12-24-13, 07:35 AM
All I see are pics of your lovely Citroen?????

Aventador build???

Roy.

DRZOOM68
12-24-13, 08:14 AM
Here is a tip. Do not paint the seats. The paint just will not stick to the rubber. I had them painted and were ready to install. You have to click them on the bottom with force. After that the paint was stuck to my hands. I was furious as hell. I will try to fix the damage.

Mathieu
12-24-13, 08:43 AM
Hi all,

Just a few words to introduce myself here: I some-how re-started model kit with this one... by accident :)
When I picked it up, the dealer told me: "right, you won't have anything to paint..." and showed my one part of the body.
Great orange color, really looking gorgeous... but in plastic parts, it is a total different story:
- many parts still have molding prints
- the color is "uneven", i.e. you have basic bare plastic parts.

So I have decided to get myself a small airbrush (I picked up the Revell basic kit), some primers, some paints... and some small stuff to enlighten the inside.

So far, so good, I am quite finished priming the plastic parts for the cockpit. I might also post some pics here...
...or even create a separate topic.

Mathieu
12-24-13, 08:56 AM
Lets start with the "bad quality" plastic finish.
For example, the H-12 part, OOB looks like this:
24928

Totally weird for a 550 Euros kit in my mind...
After going to the local hardware store, and getting some sandpaper, I started wet-sanding, from grit 400 to 1500. This is the result:
24929

Of course, this some-how forces you to paint afterwards... I don't think this is really an issue, as afterwards, I will be able to match the inside leather color and finish even better :)

Mathieu
12-24-13, 09:07 AM
Once wet-sanding is over, I am now coming to the point of priming, and this is how it looks like after 2 layers of Vallejo acrylic white primer applied with the airbrush. To get a nice finish before applying the color, I gently rub the primer 24h after applying it with 1500 grit.

24930

(Experts are always welcomed to comment, at least to get me on the correct path :) )

superfly
12-24-13, 10:13 AM
When painting plastic parts...one must wash the parts properly to remove any mould release prior to priming and painting. ..temperature is also a factor....its too cold for me to do any painting in the garage (-8C right now).

So let me get this straight...The tires are plastic...but the seats are rubbber????????????

If the die-cast parts are powder-coated...that would mean the plastic body parts were done differently...because powder-coating needs to be baked to cure...could that explain the different tones in the body parts?

Guiddy
12-24-13, 10:36 AM
If the die-cast parts are powder-coated...that would mean the plastic body parts were done differently...because powder-coating needs to be baked to cure...could that explain the different tones in the body parts?

Is this the case with the white & orange colours?

The reason I ask is I haven't committed to a specific colour yet. Might just got Satin Black, in which case I'd colour the less rare orange kit

superfly
12-24-13, 10:48 AM
i've read a builders comment on Pocher's Facebook page...his was the white kit....he said some body parts appear greyish...
thats just what I've read....he didn't post any pics.

CitroenTA
12-24-13, 11:29 AM
Roy. I haven't got my Lambo yet. It's coming in January.

Mathieu
12-24-13, 12:11 PM
When painting plastic parts...one must wash the parts properly to remove any mould release prior to priming and painting. ..temperature is also a factor....its too cold for me to do any painting in the garage (-8C right now).Of course, once the wet sanding was done, I washed the parts carefully with soapy water and let them dry for a day before doing anything with it.
So let me get this straight...The tires are plastic...but the seats are rubbber????????????The gyres are IMHO out of hard rubber, not plastic. But I will confirm that once I open the bag containing them.
If the die-cast parts are powder-coated...that would mean the plastic body parts were done differently...because powder-coating needs to be baked to cure...could that explain the different tones in the body parts?You have different kind of plastics: you have orange grapes painted carefully and packed in silk paper like the die cast parts. But you also have other grapes comparable to normal model kits that IMHO needs to be painted to look nice.

roymattblack
12-24-13, 12:34 PM
Sorry.... Maybe too much Xmas plonk - but what do you mean by 'grapes'?

Roy.

Ton
12-24-13, 01:00 PM
Sorry.... Maybe too much Xmas plonk - but what do you mean by 'grapes'?

Roy.

The automatic word cruncher: probably it is "parts"

DominiqueBeerts
12-24-13, 01:05 PM
That will be 'part trees'. It might be a too direct translation from the french term 'grappe'.

I have seen a pre-production model a while ago - I think it was either at the Paris Rétromobile expo or the Maastricht Interclassics - but the model could not convince me. It had orange peal on every body panel, the fit of the panels was terrible and the overall stance of the model just did not look right. A part from that I think the subject could have been more interesting to relaunch the marque, but that is my personal opinion of course.

Judging on what I have read so far about this model, I have the feeling that it looks more like a BBburago Deluxe than a Pocher quality, but also that will have something to do with the choice of the target buyers. The small errors in the manual is not an issue for too much criticism for what I am concerned.

Anyway, I will not buy it.

superfly
12-24-13, 01:16 PM
Oh the plastic injected parts are moulded in color and not painted after.......to match the die cast parts?

superfly
12-24-13, 01:42 PM
Excellent feedback....I'm glad to hear both good and not so good things about this kit...thats what its about...
Some people have bought more than one kit...some will not buy it at all.
The subject matter is what interests me....Aoshima has a 1/24 scale Aventador (excellent kit) and I'm just learning that Aoshima will be coming out with the roadster version as well in 1/24...so I'm definitely getting that.
I'm still very happy I'm getting Pocher's Aventador...
For those you already have the kit...keep on posting...I'm curious how the doors and lids work..or any other issue etc..etc

Mathieu
12-24-13, 02:04 PM
Oh the plastic injected parts are moulded in color and not painted after.......to match the die cast parts?I will post you some pictures once I get back home.

DRZOOM68
12-24-13, 05:38 PM
I have the orange kit and I will check the plastic parts for color difference. I did not open them yet because I do not want to scratch them. I almost finished the monocoque and I have to say the fit of the interior parts is excellent. I've detailled the front and backpanel of the monocoque with carbon foil. You have to do this else you get a combination of orange and flat black wich does not look right.

STARK
12-24-13, 05:52 PM
Great. Keep it coming. I agree with what I read so far about the plastic parts finish. They are crude and don't know if Pocher expected people to prime and paint them. But I doubt I will go back now as I am just going to assemble it as is. Will only do a few touch ups here and there but thats about it. Haven't been able to get my hands on the assembly much due to the holidays and friends and families coming over. But hopefully will get back to it soon.

superfly
12-24-13, 05:57 PM
I have the orange kit and I will check the plastic parts for color difference. I did not open them yet because I do not want to scratch them. I almost finished the monocoque and I have to say the fit of the interior parts is excellent. I've detailled the front and backpanel of the monocoque with carbon foil. You have to do this else you get a combination of orange and flat black wich does not look right.

I would love to see pics DRZoom

Ton
12-24-13, 07:45 PM
They are crude

Try a good plastic scratch remover and plastic polish

CitroenTA
12-25-13, 03:18 AM
Little reference for colour combinations etc.: Lamborghini 2011 Aventador LP700 4 Brochure afbeeldingen : Autoblog.nl (http://www.autoblog.nl/image-gallery?file=Lamborghini/2011_Aventador_LP700-4_Brochure/)

spinellid82
12-25-13, 12:49 PM
I DARE somebody to do it in pink!

he1hehe1hehe1he

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

JeepMkd
12-25-13, 01:26 PM
Someone should wrap it in gold or chrome foil like Arabs do to the 1:1 :)

andylam16
12-26-13, 03:36 AM
I concerned how to match the color ":Orange" between the die-cast parts and plastic parts if I paint the plastic parts.1sad1

tommaso_iuele
12-26-13, 05:04 AM
I will probably make it matt purple chrome

tommaso_iuele
12-26-13, 05:13 AM
I concerned how to match the color ":Orange" between the die-cast parts and plastic parts if I paint the plastic parts.1sad1

It's not a problem if you give it 2 coats of white base and then paint orange with clear over it. I would suggest you to buy the original PPG colour somewhere . The new colours are all water base. Easy to use.
1thumbup1

Mathieu
12-26-13, 11:35 AM
I concerned how to match the color ":Orange" between the die-cast parts and plastic parts if I paint the plastic parts.1sad1

The plastic parts that will complete the die-cast parts are also painted. There might be a slight color diff (like with the orignal 1:1 ones). You have some part trees that are painted (apart from the body parts, you also have the rims for example), but most of the parts that will be used for the interior and/or the engine are raw plastic.

superfly
12-26-13, 11:36 AM
Hiroboy carries several colors specific to the Aventador..the "orange" being one of them

Mathieu
12-26-13, 12:21 PM
Little reference for colour combinations etc.: Lamborghini 2011 Aventador LP700 4 Brochure afbeeldingen : Autoblog.nl (http://www.autoblog.nl/image-gallery?file=Lamborghini/2011_Aventador_LP700-4_Brochure/)

Nice documentation! From the colors I see on the pictures around the net, I think the "Nero Ade" is a little greyish... Somehow comparable to Revell's Tar Black (RAL 9021). Could anyone confirm, or give some more details color references ?

3.Star
12-26-13, 06:10 PM
Have a look here:Lamborghini (http://www.scalefinishes.com/lambo.html?)
Asked for Grigio Estoque/ original Lamborghini at my local dealer, the price knocked me off my feet. It was about the same as the whole kit. But there is no need for the factory stuff at all.
Most bodyshops will mix it after the paint code for a fair amount of bucks.

Cheers
Michael

STARK
12-27-13, 11:02 PM
Back to the build. Here is the progress so far on K#16, K#17 & K#18.

STARK
12-27-13, 11:35 PM
And after assembling the previous 3 together into K#19

andylam16
12-27-13, 11:53 PM
tommaso_iuele, thx for you information.
Mathieu, thx for your information.
because I still waiting for my kit so I cannot comment on anything. SO SAD1sad1

andylam16
12-27-13, 11:54 PM
Hi Stark, nice job1thumbup1

STARK
12-28-13, 12:38 AM
Hi Stark, nice job1thumbup1

Thanks mate.

STARK
12-28-13, 12:39 AM
K#20 done.

STARK
12-28-13, 02:26 AM
Looks pretty good and can feel the weight of it now.

superfly
12-28-13, 02:52 PM
Looking really good Stark...let us know how the door fittings go..

casper
12-29-13, 09:03 AM
looking really nice Stark
shame about the odd mistake and some of the flash left to clean up on some parts and would have been nice to see some etched additions

Mathieu
12-29-13, 04:07 PM
One pic from my side. Primer is done on all plastic parts that will go inside.
I have now started to paint the NATO black.

24975

Guiddy
12-29-13, 06:22 PM
One pic from my side. Primer is done on all plastic parts that will go inside.
I have now started to paint the NATO black.



Mathieu I really think you should do your own thread for your Aventador. I'm really interested in a build that's more than just out the box.

STARK
12-29-13, 07:23 PM
Looking really good Stark...let us know how the door fittings go..

Thanks. Will sure do.

STARK
12-29-13, 07:24 PM
looking really nice Stark
shame about the odd mistake and some of the flash left to clean up on some parts and would have been nice to see some etched additions

Thanks mate. I am planning on ordering another kit and make this as a practice kit. But still in two minds.

CitroenTA
12-29-13, 11:55 PM
Mathieu I really think you should do your own thread for your Aventador. I'm really interested in a build that's more than just out the box.

I agree with Guiddy. One builder in one thread, please. It's easier to follow.

DRZOOM68
12-30-13, 05:40 AM
I wil make my own thread.

Guiddy
12-30-13, 06:11 AM
Thanks mate. I am planning on ordering another kit and make this as a practice kit. But still in two minds.

The joy of Pocher kits is you can take it apart and make it again can't you! Could always add more detail later!

STARK
12-30-13, 08:51 AM
The joy of Pocher kits is you can take it apart and make it again can't you! Could always add more detail later! The only problem taking it apart is I have already used cement to glue all the parts in.

Guiddy
12-31-13, 08:15 PM
We still want updates Sarv, any progress?

STARK
12-31-13, 09:34 PM
We still want updates Sarv, any progress?

Just a bit but I ordered the second kit yesterday and should receive it in couple of days. I am thinking of completely overhauling the current kit. Have emailed Pocher for spare set of brake callipers (Part J1) as I want to paint a couple and see which colour looks the best. And will be painting the car is matte white most probably with carbon fibre roof. It is going to be a time consuming project but hopefully it will be worth the wait. Cheers

STARK
12-31-13, 09:51 PM
Wishing all

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2013/12/2.gif

superfly
01-01-14, 02:43 PM
Scale Details was offering $100 discount off the kit and $50 off the display case...if your a member on FerrariChat.com..Might be worth signing up if Stephane is still offering.

STARK
01-03-14, 07:08 PM
The second kit just arrived. Time to start working on the customisation.

superfly
01-03-14, 07:36 PM
how do you get your kits so fast??? im still waiting for mine...

STARK
01-03-14, 09:35 PM
how do you get your kits so fast??? im still waiting for mine...The guy whom I got from is really good. He ships within couple of hours of payment and EMS takes a day or two to get here.

STARK
01-03-14, 10:55 PM
Just started airbrushing the parts. Here is the comparison. The one on the left is original and the one on the right is airbrushed. Used Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminium and it makes heaps of difference in the appearance.

superfly
01-04-14, 12:42 AM
If you pre-shade the parts with a dark color then spray the aluminum over it...it will make even more of a difference.

STARK
01-04-14, 01:34 AM
If you pre-shade the parts with a dark color then spray the aluminum over it...it will make even more of a difference.Thought of doing it but I tested it directly and was pretty happy with the matte aluminium effect. So decided to go ahead without the darker base. Here is the result so far.

superfly
01-04-14, 01:46 AM
Your air brushing is excellent Stark.....did you get the orange kit or another white?

STARK
01-04-14, 01:55 AM
Your air brushing is excellent Stark.....did you get the orange kit or another white?Thanks mate. No I got the white kit. Not exactly a fan of orange as a colour. But I have more options with colour now. I might do it myself or get it done from an auto paint shop.

HighEnder
01-04-14, 03:21 AM
If you pre-shade the parts with a dark color then spray the aluminum over it...it will make even more of a difference.
Hi Superfly,

you mean that I should airbrush with black first and than I should put 2 coats of aluminium over the piece? From my experience the XF paint of Tamiya really opaque. Could you please expain your technique to me?

becorube
01-04-14, 05:56 AM
Hi guys I have a question, have you prime the motor parts Before paint what about the interior needs to be prime to. Thanks I hope you can answer my inquiries.

Ton
01-04-14, 06:02 AM
have you prime the motor parts Before paint what about the interior needs to be prime to. Thanks

I think it is not necessary. Downside of priming is that you loose detail because you add an extra layer.

becorube
01-04-14, 06:10 AM
Thanks Ton , it's what where I thinking if we prime we could loos some details, but it's ok to paint with out prime on the interior as well?.

STARK
01-04-14, 06:19 AM
Hi guys I have a question, have you prime the motor parts Before paint what about the interior needs to be prime to. Thanks I hope you can answer my inquiries.

I don't think there is any need to use a base coat or primer unless it is a must. I just tested the Tamiya X-16 Flat Aluminium with Alclad II Lacquer Gloss Black Base and used two coats over that. I did not notice any difference between the two. I am pretty happy using the Flat Aluminium directly on the engine parts and the result you can see from the pic that I have posted above. It is giving a nice matte effect which is what I was looking for.

Ton
01-04-14, 06:35 AM
....... but it's ok to paint with out prime on the interior as well?.

Primer is a must on metal but I have never seen the benefit on plastic.

superfly
01-04-14, 09:18 AM
I know of fellow modellers who prime everything...plastic, resin, metal, photo-etch. Priming allows you to see imperfections like sink marks, scratches, seamless which have to be fixed before painting. You can by a cheap can from any hardware store...Thin coats is all you need...it will not lose detail....Tamiya primer is expensive..but also excellent for even the smallest detail. If you dont fix these areas the imperfections will show through the paint.

Priming allows your paint to "stick" better to your parts....and give consistancy in color especially if your matching paint with metal to plastic....to resin...etc........Example..your painting diecast metal body...with plastic doors and side panels ...with resin hood....all the same color.

Pre-shading is where you airbrush a dark color (black or dark brown) on the deep areas(recesses) of a part...once dry...you spray light coats of the main color over entire part...to build color up slowly...the dark areas will remain darker giving the part more realistic look. In the real world not every part is shiny and new...some parts are weathered. Every Aventador is road tested before it goes to the customer...so parts get some degree of weathering...exhaust and muffler gets heat stained for example.

1. wash parts
2. prime
3. pre-shade
4. main color
5. gloss coat clear
6. black wash
7. clear coat matt or gloss.

There are more techniques but this is a simple one....Pre-shading is idea for engine parts, some interior parts, and suspension parts. Do not pre-shade body parts

HighEnder
01-04-14, 09:34 AM
Hi superfly,

thank you very much for your explanation for pre-shading. I used that technique only to set some weathering effects afterwards but never before. I will try it.

superfly
01-04-14, 09:41 AM
HighEnder...yes some people post-shade also to get the similar effects. If you want to take it a bit further...you can do a dark wash after a gloss coat...but then you have the clear over that too.

becorube
01-04-14, 01:51 PM
Thanks Ton and superfly for the tips I will keep them on mine.

STARK
01-04-14, 07:29 PM
I know of fellow modellers who prime everything...plastic, resin, metal, photo-etch. Priming allows you to see imperfections like sink marks, scratches, seamless which have to be fixed before painting. You can by a cheap can from any hardware store...Thin coats is all you need...it will not lose detail....Tamiya primer is expensive..but also excellent for even the smallest detail. If you dont fix these areas the imperfections will show through the paint.

Priming allows your paint to "stick" better to your parts....and give consistancy in color especially if your matching paint with metal to plastic....to resin...etc........Example..your painting diecast metal body...with plastic doors and side panels ...with resin hood....all the same color.

Pre-shading is where you airbrush a dark color (black or dark brown) on the deep areas(recesses) of a part...once dry...you spray light coats of the main color over entire part...to build color up slowly...the dark areas will remain darker giving the part more realistic look. In the real world not every part is shiny and new...some parts are weathered. Every Aventador is road tested before it goes to the customer...so parts get some degree of weathering...exhaust and muffler gets heat stained for example.

1. wash parts
2. prime
3. pre-shade
4. main color
5. gloss coat clear
6. black wash
7. clear coat matt or gloss.

There are more techniques but this is a simple one....Pre-shading is idea for engine parts, some interior parts, and suspension parts. Do not pre-shade body parts

Thank you for the detailed info mate. Much appreciated.

STARK
01-06-14, 01:56 AM
Just finished painting this. The texture and matte finish looks good.

HighEnder
01-06-14, 03:13 AM
Hi Stark,

I am still looking for a paint which creates that sandy finsh. One option is a paint form Japan.
Could you please tell me, what paint you have used to get that finish?

3.Star
01-06-14, 03:39 AM
Hello Markus,

you can achieve this finish by brushing in a larger distance, either with a rattle can or airbrush.

Cheers
Michael

DRZOOM68
01-06-14, 04:34 AM
Looks great Stark

STARK
01-06-14, 05:26 AM
Hi Stark,

I am still looking for a paint which creates that sandy finsh. One option is a paint form Japan.
Could you please tell me, what paint you have used to get that finish?

First I used the Tamiya Surface Primer keeping the airbrush at low pressure and spraying evenly from a bit further than you usually want to be. This created a grainy texture and once it dried, I used Tamiya Flat Black to get the matte finish.

Cheers

STARK
01-06-14, 05:26 AM
Looks great Stark

Thanks mate.

Ton
01-06-14, 06:27 AM
First I used the Tamiya Surface Primer keeping the airbrush at low pressure and spraying evenly from a bit further than you usually want to be. This created a grainy texture and once it dried, I used Tamiya Flat Black to get the matte finish.

Cheers

An alternative is working with a big brush. Paint the part ....wait a few minutes and gently use the front of the brush to make a grainy texture

superfly
01-06-14, 10:16 AM
25120 (http://www.drillspot.com/products/416612/krylon_1242_12_oz_carmel_suede_paint)

These give a fine even texture ...easy to spray and can be painted over to match any color...great for car interiors and engine parts!

petersm
01-06-14, 10:40 AM
I have not yet been able to find Krylon paint in Europe.

In Europe it may be easier to get "Plasti-Kote" Terracotta paint.
Spray cans of this paint should be available at Hornbach in Germany and the Netherlands.

Best Regards,
Marc

HighEnder
01-06-14, 10:44 AM
Hi superfly,

it took me almost one hour research in the internet to find where I can buy that product. But than, it would not be delivered to Germany.1confused1
We have a similar product in Germany, also- but it costs a fortune. About 100$ per kilo. And I do not know if it can be used for an airbrush.
So, I am very interted to know who I could get that stuff to Germany.
Could you please give me a hint.
Where do you buy that?

Tourpretendent
01-06-14, 10:50 AM
Instead of the Krylon you may use flour.
Just spray a 1 layer of de deseired piant and apply into a pile of flour.
Repaed that proces until the it looks like sued of carpet, it's easy to do and durable.
Regards, Ronald

superfly
01-06-14, 10:52 AM
I'm sorry HighEnder...here in Canada...it is available at any hardware store or arts and crafts store.<br>
<br>
We get it at Home Depot, Rona, Walmart, Micheals, Canadian Tire, Lowes.<br>
<br>
Its mainly used for home decorating...texturing vases. or statues..scrapbooks.....try looking at craft stores for a similar product.

superfly
01-06-14, 10:55 AM
You can also try embossing powder...its used also for crafts and greeting cards...comes in all colors and even metallics....

embossing powders...apply glue sprinkle powder....shake away excess...allow to dry.....


You can use heat to set embossing powder...But I haven't tried it yet...so please....Experiment with scrap peices before trying any new technique or product.

HighEnder
01-06-14, 10:57 AM
Hi Tourpretendent,

yes that would be my alternative B. Flocking. I saw a lot of video at You Tube. I was wanderingn that even the girls a using that method for finger nail impressions. gringrin

@superfly: I will try to get in contact with the canadian stores. If I won't get it - I have to contact some friends to buy it for me.

Regards
Markus

superfly
01-06-14, 11:04 AM
there is also suede texture fingernail polish....lots of colors!

comes in flat colors too...might work on the aiirbox, steering wheel, headliner.doors inserts and seats if you want color suede inserts for the interior.

25121

STARK
01-06-14, 06:03 PM
Some great suggestions regarding textures and effects. I checked Krylon paints and they are available here except for the suede paint 1what1.

3.Star
01-06-14, 06:31 PM
It was hard enough to buy some red stockings for covering the F 40 seats. Nail paint will cause more problems. Will get some issues with family members, that can't be explained with modelling stuff.

Ton
01-06-14, 06:38 PM
It was hard enough to buy some red stockings for covering the F 40 seats. Nail paint will cause more problems. Will get some issues with family members, that can't be explained with modelling stuff.

True....my wife is still searching

superfly
01-06-14, 06:45 PM
the most manly of men have been known to use fingernail polish to paint. model car bodies....its acutally quite common......i'd get my girlfriend to buy for me though...lolI've got tweezers..soft make up brush....make up sponge...q-tips....cotton buds...fingernail files.....hey wait a mintue....are these hobby tools or beauty salon stuff? Haha

superfly
01-06-14, 08:40 PM
Plasti-kote also carries Suede in a spray can......its called "Suede Touch"...for those who can't get Krylon.

Please not that I haven't used this brand...Its alway good to test these and any other paints before using on your model.

I buy cheap plastic spoons (white) and test paints, primers, clears..etc... on them....you can see what works ....what doesn't....also you can compare hues of colors having samples side-by-side...

test the suede spray on spoons....see if how durable they are to being handled...

STARK
01-07-14, 02:18 AM
Done with the paint and assembled it. Looks pretty good once put together.

DRZOOM68
01-07-14, 05:26 AM
Looking good. Has someone has a reference picture of the injector rails? I did them black because I could not find an engine picture with the rails on them. This is the the second build where they are painted aluminium.

Mathieu
01-07-14, 07:38 AM
I think they are black... I have to re-check, but I remember that I saw them on a documentary about the aventador on youtube.

Mathieu
01-07-14, 07:39 AM
Here you are:

25130

STARK
01-07-14, 08:02 AM
From this view they look chrome so I decided to do them in aluminium finish as chrome would take bit longer to take effect.

STARK
01-08-14, 02:24 AM
I am using the above image as reference and here is further paint work that I have done.

STARK
01-08-14, 08:08 AM
Progress with the assembly and paint so far. It's time consuming but it is worth it.

Ton
01-08-14, 08:47 AM
Looks very good!

DRZOOM68
01-08-14, 10:15 AM
Looks great, but you made the same mistake as me. You'd better glued the cables V-07 V-08 V-09 and V-10 first at part R-11 before installing. Now it is very hard to attach the cables. There is very little room.

STARK
01-08-14, 10:29 AM
Looks very good!Thanks mate.

STARK
01-08-14, 10:33 AM
Looks great, but you made the same mistake as me. You'd better glued the cables V-07 V-08 V-09 and V-10 first at part R-11 before installing. Now it is very hard to attach the cables. There is very little room.Thanks. This is my second kit that I am assembling. I did the first kit without any paint details. But I used tweezers to install the cables which made it easy to fit given the lack of space. And unlike my first kit, I am avoiding using cement on this one so I can have the flexibility to make changes if the need be.

KRAFTIG
01-08-14, 07:47 PM
Stark that looks quite awesome, I'm jealous :)

STARK
01-08-14, 09:38 PM
Stark that looks quite awesome, I'm jealous :)Thanks mate :)

STARK
01-08-14, 09:40 PM
Progress so far with the assembly.

andylam16
01-08-14, 11:33 PM
Hi Stark, your work looks GREAT!!! How you make the WORDS in SILVER on the engine cover ? Is that easy?
I just have received my kit yesterday but I preferred to wait for some details up kit before I start. Thanks for sharing.gringrin

STARK
01-09-14, 01:03 AM
Hi Stark, your work looks GREAT!!! How you make the WORDS in SILVER on the engine cover ? Is that easy?
I just have received my kit yesterday but I preferred to wait for some details up kit before I start. Thanks for sharing.gringrin

Thanks mate. I used Tamiya Flat Aluminium XF-16 to paint the words. It is easy you just need to be patient as it is time consuming.

Goodluck with your build. Cheers

andylam16
01-09-14, 01:15 AM
Hi Stark,
Thx for your information.

STARK
01-09-14, 01:51 AM
So here is the weathering effect that I am trying to work on. Will be doing a few more applications till I am satisfied with it.

roymattblack
01-09-14, 05:55 AM
A much easier (and possibly neater?) way of getting the silver lettering and lines on the engine covers:

Cover the lines/lettering with a piece of Bare Metal Foil, cut to fit closely around the outer lines and close to the lettering. It needn't be perfect.
Burnish the BMF down with a toothpick into all the nooks and crannies.
Paint the engine covers.
When dry, polish the lines and lettering with Micromesh.
The lines and letters will come up lovely and 'chromey'.


The pics show the result on a 1/24 Ferrari I did a while ago.
Roy.


http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2014/01/25.jpg

andylam16
01-09-14, 06:59 AM
Hi roymattblack,
Thanks for information ,I will try later.

Mathieu
01-09-14, 07:14 AM
Hi Stark, your work looks GREAT!!! How you make the WORDS in SILVER on the engine cover ? Is that easy?

You can also buy a silver paint pen and gently "brush" the words and lines. You can for exemple use the following reference:
edding 751 paint marker for smooth surfaces | edding-creative.com (http://www.edding.com/creating-and-decorating/products/gloss-paint-marker/edding-751-gloss-paint-marker/)

STARK
01-09-14, 07:20 AM
Almost done with the engine assembly. Here is the progress so far.

CitroenTA
01-09-14, 07:45 AM
The engine is looking very good to me. 1thumbup1

3.Star
01-09-14, 07:47 AM
Hi Stark, this paintjob of the exhaust is gorgeous. Love it.

AirB
01-09-14, 08:01 AM
Nice work Stark1thumbup1
One pity thing about the Aventador, once closed you don't see anything of your splendid work (exhaust and oil tank)

superfly
01-09-14, 09:20 AM
Roy....that is a gorgeous Ferrari.....I will have to try the BMF.

r88sch
01-09-14, 01:39 PM
Been following this thread for a while now, started my Aventador last weekend. I'm just doing an out the box build. Its my first ever large scale model.

What type of glue are you using for this? I'm using Revell Contacta Professional as I had a couple of bottles left over from old plastic 1/350 Titanic model. It works brilliantly on the plastic parts, but I'm finding it quite slow drying when it comes to the Rubber parts.

Ton
01-09-14, 03:30 PM
but I'm finding it quite slow drying when it comes to the Rubber parts.

Contacta "melts" both pieces of plastic but the seats are a different material so the "melting" will probably not happen. Wash the seats in soapy water, sand superficially and try CA glue. But beware of your eyes....it happened to me that I glued a rubber like substance but it did not bond and it "jumped" into my eye.1confused1

superfly
01-09-14, 03:40 PM
the seats are PVC. soft plastic....

Guiddy
01-09-14, 04:53 PM
Stark, you did great with the exhaust and when the chrome exhaust trim goes over the top the contrast with the burnt metal will look great! Nice job!

Ton
01-09-14, 05:08 PM
the seats are PVC. soft plastic....

PVC has its own glue.....try it on a Revell model and a blob remains gringrin IMO every plastic has its own glue 1gramps1

superfly
01-09-14, 05:42 PM
Ton yes i agree....It would be nice if the instructions noted what materials are and what glues to use....it would save alot of headache..

STARK
01-09-14, 07:58 PM
The engine is looking very good to me. 1thumbup1

Thanks mate.

STARK
01-09-14, 07:59 PM
Hi Stark, this paintjob of the exhaust is gorgeous. Love it.

Thank you 3.Star.

STARK
01-09-14, 08:01 PM
Nice work Stark1thumbup1
One pity thing about the Aventador, once closed you don't see anything of your splendid work (exhaust and oil tank)

Thanks AirB. That thought did struck me. So now I am in two minds, whether to install this in the car or use it just as a display since this is the second kit that I am working on. Tough decision. 1confused1

STARK
01-09-14, 08:08 PM
Been following this thread for a while now, started my Aventador last weekend. I'm just doing an out the box build. Its my first ever large scale model.

What type of glue are you using for this? I'm using Revell Contacta Professional as I had a couple of bottles left over from old plastic 1/350 Titanic model. It works brilliantly on the plastic parts, but I'm finding it quite slow drying when it comes to the Rubber parts.

I am using this one. It is not super-fast drying but it takes 30sec or so. Good part is that even after a few days you decided to make changes you can pull the glued part off and there is no damage done to it. Comes of easy if the need be.

STARK
01-09-14, 08:10 PM
Stark, you did great with the exhaust and when the chrome exhaust trim goes over the top the contrast with the burnt metal will look great! Nice job!

Thanks Guiddy. I am looking forward to the chrome fitting as well.

superfly
01-09-14, 10:25 PM
Stark look at the embossed logo on the headrest (left side)....compared to the right side...
the logo on the left is clearly lower than the right one.


25156

STARK
01-09-14, 11:13 PM
Stark look at the embossed logo on the headrest (left side)....compared to the right side...
the logo on the left is clearly lower than the right one.


25156

Oh I did not notice that. Will check again and also check if this is the case with the second kit as well. Thanks for spotting it.

andylam16
01-09-14, 11:18 PM
You can also buy a silver paint pen and gently "brush" the words and lines. You can for exemple use the following reference:
edding 751 paint marker for smooth surfaces | edding-creative.com (http://www.edding.com/creating-and-decorating/products/gloss-paint-marker/edding-751-gloss-paint-marker/)

Thx, Mathieu

Ton
01-10-14, 03:43 AM
Thanks AirB. That thought did struck me. So now I am in two minds, whether to install this in the car or use it just as a display since this is the second kit that I am working on. Tough decision. 1confused1

I don't know if Hornby will follow Pocher 100%, but if they do there will become an single engine available

countach
01-12-14, 06:28 PM
Weathering looks gorgeous on the exhaust. How did you achieve that? Thanks

STARK
01-12-14, 08:57 PM
Weathering looks gorgeous on the exhaust. How did you achieve that? Thanks

Thanks mate. I used Tamiya XF-56 Metallic Grey, XF-28 Dark Copper, XF-18 Medium Blue, X-19 Smoke and X-22 Clear to get that effect. Cheers.