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Dr Dave
05-24-13, 07:54 PM
Righto guys, time to do something new here. After becoming a little bored with the motocross diorama and packing it all away in a box (and I will get it back out again later on), I needed something else to get me going again. I do have a bunch of other projects that have been previously pushed aside but they didnít get me excited when I looked at them.

Since building the Clerget 9B a couple of years ago, which I thoroughly enjoyed, Iíve been keen to do another engine. Iíve only had this Williams Bros. kit sitting on the shelf since before Christmas and I keep looking at it with much interest, so I got it down and started checking it out again. Well this one did excite me, enough to make a start on it and now Iím having a great time. And being the same scale as the Clerget they can sit together on the display shelf.

This can be the starting point= the box and the bits within it, plus a photo of a real engine from my folder of reference photos.

chassisdude
05-24-13, 08:03 PM
Build on Dr Dave ... Diversity is what makes this hobby so cool..Ive been contemplating starting back on my wooden ship..got so wrapped up in my coupe that I put it aside for the better part of a year... probably have another year of work to complete...its tempting but in all reality ill probably wait till the winter months to work on it...Engines are another of my favorites al types..ill be keepin an eye on your wasp build....

Dr Dave
05-24-13, 08:16 PM
Thanks Mike. Speeking of ships, I found some old photos the other day of an old sailling ship I built for a mate many years ago after he lost his thumb in an accident we had. He was so upset when he realised he couldn't do it. That was a terrific model to build and it was hard to hand over to him when finished, but he was thrilled and that made it really worthwhile. Yep, diversity is a wonderful thing.

semijoe
05-25-13, 07:40 AM
this looks like a really look build , I have a couple of ships sitting on a shelf too, some day

chassisdude
05-25-13, 02:55 PM
And Joe.. I suppose that when you build the ships, youll build a working a dry dock that works like you did for trucks in your garage scene..he1hehe1hehe1hehe1he

Dr Dave
05-25-13, 10:45 PM
The instruction sheet is pretty simple, just one sheet of paper with the engine on one side and the wiring on the other. There are also written directions to go with the diagrams. The instructions make it look easy but Iím sure I can turn that into a time consuming process. I'll keep it nearby to refer to occasionally. Right, so Iíll start in the middle and work out from there.

There are 7 main parts to make up the main body and then the cylinders and all the accessories are attached to that. The crank case is in 2 pieces and the intake manifold is in 2 pieces. You might be able to see in the photo how much flash is on the parts (actually the photo doesn't show it as bad as what I see on my bench). Lots of cleaning up, filing and sanding to do here. Oh wow, the parts donít fit together very well at all. A bit of work is needed here to make it go together the way it should.

Dr Dave
05-29-13, 07:36 PM
The intake manifold has now been cleaned up to a much better condition than when the two halves were first glued together. Now the body of the engine is starting to come together, and you can see in the third photo how Iím going to keep it in two sections for easier handling. The oil sump which hangs underneath has a bolt head molded in for a sump plug, but it doesnít look very good so Iíll be replacing it with a brass one that Iíve polished up.

Dr Dave
06-06-13, 12:53 AM
This part of the engine needs to be painted before any other pieces can be attached to it, so Iíll do that first and it can be drying while I move on to the cylinders. In all the reference photos Iíve collected there are a couple that, to me, stand out from the others. Their colours are brighter and more appealing, but thatís just a personal opinion. So Iíve tried to copy this blue/grey colour I like but now that the paint has dried it looks like too much blue, not enough grey. Thatís ok, itís close enough. The photos here show it to be a much brighter blue than it actually is.

keramh
06-06-13, 02:07 AM
Hello,

what a project, I'm excited. 1:8 can be much, can you tell me how big is the diameter of the motor?
This report I follow very gladly.

BrassBuilder
06-06-13, 07:38 AM
I think that blue is really going to look good. Nice cleanup on the parts too!
Mike

Dr Dave
06-06-13, 01:02 PM
Thankyou Marek. The diameter will be 160mm. The Clerget 9B is 130mm.

Thankyou Mike. I'm used to seeing the blue and now I like it. Much more clean up to be done. This is the worst kit I've worked with.

Dr Dave
06-07-13, 02:09 AM
These cylinder halves donít fit together very well at all. The fins donít line up properly, the contact surfaces are uneven, and thereís lots of flash everywhere. First thing is to file the contact surfaces smooth so all the halves will fit together properly and then clean up all the flash. This really shows up the miss-alignment of the fins. I glued all the cylinders together and then set to work with a root canal file I got from my dentist friend. Itís like a Ďrat tailí file thatís half the thickness of a pin. This allowed me to file across the joins and between the fins to get it all to line up and look smooth and continuous. It was a long slow process but it made such a big difference that it was worth the time invested. A coat of primer helps blend it all together. Oh no, I've still got 8 more to do1no1.

chassisdude
06-07-13, 08:04 PM
At least its not the Pratt and Whitney twin wasp 14 cylinders he1hehe1he

23981

xken
06-07-13, 08:41 PM
David, Engines are more fun to build from scratch at half the size. he1he Here is a 7 cylinder Continental for a N2S Stearman I started. One of these days I will get around to finishing it.

I have heard those kits were a little rough.

Ken 1gramps1

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/659/medium/15_Assembled_engine_components_left_side_rear.jpg

chassisdude
06-07-13, 08:44 PM
David, Engines are more fun to build from scratch at half the size. he1he Here is a 7 cylinder Continental for a N2S Stearman I started. One of these days I will get around to finishing it.

I have heard those kits were a little rough.

Ken 1gramps1

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/659/medium/15_Assembled_engine_components_left_side_rear.jpg


WOW thats cool Ken !!!!

Dr Dave
06-09-13, 12:16 AM
Mike, the thought did cross my mind about the twin, just whack a couple of these together1thumbup1.Can't really see it happening. Another thing I found while researching was a P&W R-4360 Wasp Major 28 cylinder with 4 rows of 7 all slightly offset so it looks like a big spiral. What a monster.

Ken, if I had all the good gear and equipment, I would love to have a go at making a small engine that runs. I've seen quite a few on YouTube, which leads to other places and more discoveries. Can't imagine how long it would take me to do one of them.

Dr Dave
06-09-13, 02:47 AM
I have heard those kits were a little rough.

Ken 1gramps1


A little rough Ken? More like a little rubbish. I cut some of the sprues to see the cross section of how far out of alignment the mold halves must have been when casting was done. I'd reckon a good 25% or more out on most, so you can imagine the problems caused when you take 2 parts that have been molded wrong and try to match them up1mad1. Some of the flash is 1mm thick on one side of the sprue and tapers off to paper thickness at the other side of the sprue, creating dimensional issues also. In this case itís more of a challenge to build the kit than to scratch build1no1. You donít get any of these problems when you scratch build.

Got these cylinders worked out at last. What a tedious job that was but it had to be done to make this thing look half decent. I usually do 1 or 2 coats of grey primer and then a light coat of white primer, with wet sanding between coats, as I find this really shows up any problem areas that need attention. Well thereís plenty of that going on here.


I like the 2 tone colours of the cylinders in some of my reference pics, so itís blending time at the spray joint. I thought Iíd try a bit of light gold and a drop of silver mixed into some gunmetal to see what would happen. This is for the lower section of the cylinders. A bit too pale so I change the ratios slightly. After countless tests and not liking any of the results I finally use straight gunmetal. Should have done that in the first place. Then I mask the lower half and spray the upper half with flat aluminium. By holding the air brush further away the paint starts to dry a little by the time it reaches the part. This gave a slightly textured finish like cast alloy.1thumbup1

xken
06-09-13, 06:38 AM
David, hose look great considering what you started with. The four banker I believe if memory serves me right were engines in the later models of the B-17 Flying Fortress.

Keep up the great work!1thumbup1

Ken 1gramps1

Dr Dave
06-29-13, 04:47 AM
Thanks for the info Ken. I figured those huge engines would belong to something a little more substantial than a single seater. B17ís have 4 engines donít they? Thatís 112 cylinders making a huge noise and soaking up buckets of fuel. My ears hurt just thinking about it.

Now some magnetos, starter, carby, and other bits. By now Iíve become used to cleaning up and preparing every part so I just go through the processes. Once theyíre all done they all get glued to bamboo skewers ready for painting. The rings go between the cylinders and the crank case.

I considered replacing all the nuts and bolts with real ones, like I did with the Clerget, but I donít have enough and to restock would cost far more than I am prepared to spend on this build. I will restock when I do the Le Rhone as it will share the stage with the Clerget. I will be replacing some nuts, bolts and screws as some of the molded ones are very poor. Some of the molded nuts and bolts are ok so they'll be painted.

Dr Dave
07-13-13, 11:04 PM
A bit more progress at last. The rings that go between the cylinders and crank case Iíve painted orange like the ones in my reference photos, but orange straight from the jar was too light so I added a drop of red to darken it slightly. The crank case bolts are hand painted. For the carburetor I air brushed Mr Hobby Color 218 Alminume, which is supposed to be burnished when dry to make it shine but it didnít come up as good as I expected it to, so I brushed it on and it looks ok now. I drilled out most of the screws in the carb as the molded ones were almost unrecognisable, and added real screws.

D-Stroke
07-31-13, 07:16 PM
Man that is nice.

chassisdude
12-27-13, 09:00 PM
Hey bud..You complete this one yet? I was so inspired...gringrin I just picked one of these up to add to my static engine collection....Not sure when ill start on it but soon I would imagine...any more tips would be helpful....

Dr Dave
12-27-13, 10:09 PM
Well Michael, it's funny you should ask about this. Yes it's done, and I've been wanting to get back to this thread and finish the story but life has been so ridiculously hectic and crazy that everything is sooo far behind. I actually started sorting out some photos for this at about 1 o'clock this morning but it didn't take long till I was falling asleep at the computer so I went to bed. Now I have to go get busy outside again but I'll try to get back here tonight.

chassisdude
12-28-13, 08:24 AM
Well Michael, it's funny you should ask about this. Yes it's done, and I've been wanting to get back to this thread and finish the story but life has been so ridiculously hectic and crazy that everything is sooo far behind. I actually started sorting out some photos for this at about 1 o'clock this morning but it didn't take long till I was falling asleep at the computer so I went to bed. Now I have to go get busy outside again but I'll try to get back here tonight.

Cool ..Id like to see how it turned out...gringrin

Dr Dave
12-28-13, 08:35 AM
At long last the next installment of this build begins. Sorry for the long wait but sometimes life really gets in the way of all the fun stuff.


Some of the larger accessories now get put in place on the rear half of the crank case. When I saw the oil filler tube I knew it had to be replaced so I made one from a piece of aluminium welding rod with a brass bolt head for a cap. A couple of cover plates have had the rub-on chrome powder treatment.

chassisdude
12-28-13, 09:33 AM
At long last the next installment of this build begins. Sorry for the long wait but sometimes life really gets in the way of all the fun stuff.


Some of the larger accessories now get put in place on the rear half of the crank case. When I saw the oil filler tube I knew it had to be replaced so I made one from a piece of aluminium welding rod with a brass bolt head for a cap. A couple of cover plates have had the rub-on chrome powder treatment.

I agree ...Life does have a way of "getting in the way"... I like the detail....This thread will be a BIG help when I start my build...
Thanks

Dr Dave
12-28-13, 10:18 AM
No worries Michael, happy to help. If you need more help or advise when you start send me a PM just in case I miss something in your thread. I'll see the notification when I log in.
I'm not sure if you can buy root canal files on ebay, but you can ask a dentist for a couple. They are so useful to get into places where nothing else will go.

chassisdude
12-28-13, 11:24 AM
No worries Michael, happy to help. If you need more help or advise when you start send me a PM just in case I miss something in your thread. I'll see the notification when I log in.
I'm not sure if you can buy root canal files on ebay, but you can ask a dentist for a couple. They are so useful to get into places where nothing else will go.

Im actually seeing my dentist next week.. Ill aslk him...Thanks buddy....

Dr Dave
12-28-13, 06:08 PM
After putting a few parts on I realized that it was going to be a bit difficult to hold the engine to put the smaller bits on later so I had to start doing something about a stand for it. The stand supplied in the kit is just a big slab of plastic and not appealing at all. Most of my reference pics show engines on steel frame type engine stands and this allows a good view all round. After watching some of you guys get bitten by the brass bug I thought it was about time I had a go at it by making a brass stand. No solder used, all bolted together with optical hardware. I use a small slab of polished granite for a flat surface to make everything perfectly level. After all the pieces were cut, drilled and test fitted I polished them with metal polish before final assembly. When completed the stand got another light polish and a coat of Future. Stand measures 150mm long, 95mm wide, and 140mm high.

chassisdude
12-28-13, 07:25 PM
That's outstanding Dave...Its got a real "industrial" look to it as well..Nice work....1thumbup1

camwader
01-01-14, 08:38 AM
Dave, you've made a superb job of that. It has made me want to start the Revell 1/12th Wright Cyclone that I have in my stockpile. I probably ought to finish some other projects first, but I've a feeling it's an itch I'm just going to have to scratch.

Dr Dave
01-01-14, 11:47 PM
Thanks Michael.

Thanks Jon.

I know where you're coming from Jon. You see different things now and then that give you urge to go and build something now that you were planing on doing later. Good luck with the decision making he1he

Dr Dave
01-02-14, 05:37 AM
The next step Iíve taken is to prepare all the tappet covers, intake pipes and exhaust pipes, as these will be fitted after the cylinders have been put in place. Tappet covers were easy; a bit of a trim and file the fitting surface. Intake pipes were not too bad; file the two halves of each so they fit together properly and a big clean up on the entire outer surface as they were molded with lots of imperfections (lines and bumps). The exhaust pipes needed a bit more work; same as the intake pipes, but as you see the open end of these pipes they should look like thin walled open pipes. They didnít. They were all blocked off so I used a bur to ream the ends out to a suitable thickness. What I huge improvement, well worth doing.


During the prep work I considered all the different colours these parts could be done in, and finally decided on chrome. All parts were primed and painted in gloss black. After a week of drying I gave them all a rub with my favourite chrome powder and as usual it worked like a dream. Inside the exhaust pipes was brush painted flat dark grey.

Dr Dave
01-12-14, 02:22 AM
While I was doing the chrome on the pipes I thought it would be a good time to do the chrome on the bit where the prop goes (sorry to you aircraft guys, I donít know the correct terms for these parts). First, the prep work, lots of horrible flash to clean up. This is a good place to add a few real nuts and bolts, so I drilled through the molded bolts to make sure the holes were centred before removing them. I also used a razor saw to cut through the clamps that hold the propeller blades so you can see that the bolts go right through.

chassisdude
01-12-14, 07:15 AM
I have to thank you in advance for this tutorial ..It really going to make it easier for me when I start mine...gringrin

What is the "chrome powder" your using?

Dr Dave
01-13-14, 06:33 AM
I have to thank you in advance for this tutorial ..It really going to make it easier for me when I start mine...gringrin

What is the "chrome powder" your using?

You're very welcome Michael. I'm glad my build is useful to you. The chrome powder is MGM hobby super magic powder- "Prime electroplating powder". I found it on ebay long ago and I'm not sure if it's still available or not. Around the $10 mark. Make sure it's the electroplating powder you get if you can find it as there were a bunch of different colours, including pearl powders, available at the time. If you find it could you please let me know as I'd like to get some more for a couple of mates here who build trucks.

How did you go at the dentist? Did you get some root canal files?

chassisdude
01-13-14, 07:34 PM
Its still available for about 16 bucks US on Ebay,,,plus about 5 dollars shipping from china...Other pears as well..Thanks buddy..Ill have to look into it

Dr Dave
01-17-14, 07:29 AM
Hey Mike, I can't find it anywhere on ebay. Could you please send me a link to it so I can check it out?
Thanks mate.

xken
01-17-14, 03:23 PM
David,

Give this a try I have used the Copper and Gold but not the Chrome yet. I have been very pleased with the results.

Premium Metallic - | Krylon (http://www.krylon.com/products/premium-metallic/)

Ken 1gramps1

Dr Dave
01-18-14, 05:19 AM
Ken, thankyou for that tip.

I saw how good your copper turned out. VERY nice. A few months ago I found a specialist paint store here that had only just started to stock Krylon, but then I had forgotten about it. It's next to a car parts store I go to so if they are open tomorrow I'll get some and try it out.

Cheers mate.

Dr Dave
01-18-14, 06:39 AM
Now itís time to attach all the cylinders. Before I did this, I painted all the bolts on the orange rings and the crank case as there were too many to replace (I didnít have enough in stock, and I just couldnít be bothered).

Once all the cylinders were in place I added tubing between them. The black pins were supplied in the kit but not the tube. The tube needed a little bit of stretching to fit onto the pins so I stuck a tooth pick in each end for a while to stretch it, then pulled out the picks and pushed the tube onto the pins. I used the foil seal from a coffee tin to make the hose clamps.

Iím guessing the tubes could be for oil, or maybe theyíre breathers, Iím not really sure as I donít know much about how these engines work.

When all this was done I added the spark plugs. They were glued to toothpicks and painted white and gold, and when dry, glued in place. 2 spark plugs per cylinder, one front and one rear.

xken
01-18-14, 07:44 AM
David,
The engine is looking great! Just a tip for when you use the rattle cans for painting; warm them up in hot water from the faucet, shake it and you will feel it cool off then warm again until you cannot feel the temperature change. Make sure to dry the outside of the can of excess water. This creates a little more pressure in the can and atomizes the paint for a smoother finish; keep shaking the can while spraying with the metallic paints. The warm paint flows better than cold paint.

Ken 1gramps1

camwader
01-18-14, 08:39 AM
Dave, That really is looking superb. I got out my 1/12 Wright Cyclone kit but, as my new 1/6th Tamiya Fatboy has just arrived, I think it will be going back in to storage for a while.

Twalther
09-02-14, 07:32 PM
This is great as I have three to build!

Twalther
09-02-14, 07:35 PM
Does the chrome powder rub off.

chassisdude
09-02-14, 08:10 PM
No..Its pretty solid when applied...The glossier the black base the better..Dr Dave turned me on to the stuff awhile back and its great for certain apps...Its a bit hard to find..i had to order mine from china...

Twalther
09-02-14, 08:24 PM
It almost looks like powdered graphite, have you ever tried that?

chassisdude
09-02-14, 09:08 PM
It almost looks like powdered graphite, have you ever tried that?

Never tried that...Its probably about as messy. dont scratch your nose. lol. Not sure what it is but it works great..I believe is a metallic pigment powder of some sort..

Twalther
09-03-14, 12:46 PM
Or it could moly will have to play around. This is were to get it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221467571175?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AI

Twalther
09-03-14, 06:25 PM
Are you to safety wire it?

chassisdude
09-03-14, 07:36 PM
Never tried that...Its probably about as messy. dont scratch your nose. lol. Not sure what it is but it works great..I believe is a metallic pigment powder of some sort..

I dont think this listing is for the chrome.. I think it the red or blue.....here is the address where i got mine...

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/MGM-Prime-Electroplating-Powder-3ml-Providing-Electroplating-Look-to-Your-Hobby-Work/412064_677234949.html

Dr Dave
09-05-14, 07:21 PM
Both of those links (from Twalther and Chassisdude) are for the chrome powder. It's great stuff, and it will go a very long way as you don't need to use much. I recommend getting some while you can.

I'll get back to doing more on this build one day. Just got back from a fantastic 4x4 trip to Cape York, North Queensland.

chassisdude
09-05-14, 07:51 PM
I dont think this listing is for the chrome.. I think it the red or blue.....here is the address where i got mine...

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/MGM-Prime-Electroplating-Powder-3ml-Providing-Electroplating-Look-to-Your-Hobby-Work/412064_677234949.html
Welcome back Dave..Glad your trip was great and safe...

gbritnell
09-07-14, 08:01 AM
Of all the internal combustion engines out there the radial has to be one of the most eye appealing types there are, well possibly other than a flathead with finned heads and a 3 carb setup.
Anyway, fantastic work on your radial.
gbritnell

Twalther
09-10-14, 12:27 PM
Well I have been playing and this is what I came up with. One it is NOT graphite. Two it seems to be Moly powder. Did a test with a rattle can top and no effort was taken to make a good job of it. So here is what Moly looks like, and I even tried to rub it off. http://www.amazon.com/Molybdenum-Disulfide-Lubricant-Ounces-dispenser/dp/B00ICXS2OS/ref=sr_1_3?iehttps://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=f6f5847c53&view=att&th=148605ac2e293015&attid=0.1&disp=emb&realattid=ii_hzwve2le0_148605a5ff7040f0&zw&atsh=1

strevo
09-11-14, 01:05 PM
Hey guys, I found a great webpage that details a bunch of different combinations of base-coat, clear-coat, and powder with pictures of the results:
http://modelingmadness.com/others/features/mp/mcleodpaints.htm

Twalther
09-19-14, 11:19 AM
If anyone is interested in a can of the electroplating powder I have one I will sell.

Tom.

Dr Dave
11-16-14, 12:11 AM
Itís about time I got back to doing a bit more on this thread.


The push rods in the kit are not good enough to be used as they are not molded properly, so I have made a new set from aluminium tube and copper tube. The ali tube length wasnít critical as the copper tube ends take up the gap to fit in between the heads and crank case. I used a small pipe cutter to cut all the pieces. After cleaning them up and setting the correct lengths between the two end caps they were all test-fitted and trimmed to the required length. As each one was a slightly different length they had to be placed aside in the correct order to be fitted later. I pushed a piece of sprue into each tube so I could use my drill to polish them. This worked well, but you have to take care with alignment so they donít spin out of your hand and out of the drill. A slow speed is best. And I had to make sure I kept them in order for fitting.

chassisdude
11-16-14, 08:14 PM
what are the sizes of tubing you used Dave?

Twalther
11-17-14, 10:41 AM
I am using gunmetal gray eyelets for mine 9/64 and 1/8" aluminum tubing.

Tom.

chassisdude
11-17-14, 05:01 PM
Thanks bud

Dr Dave
11-20-14, 05:53 PM
Sorry Mike, totally forgot about mentioning those sizes. I used 3.2mm outside diameter aluminium tube and 4mm outside diameter copper tube. The copper fits nicely over the ali. I have no idea what that is in inches as I only work in metric, and my on-line metric conversion table only gives me decimals, not fractions. Looking at one of my rulers (mm on one edge and inches on the other) it looks like 3.2mm is 1/8th inch and 4mm is 5/32nds. We still talk in thousandths of an inch when it comes to engine rebuilding but that's as far as it goes for me.

Dr Dave
11-20-14, 07:39 PM
Now the front section of the engine (crank case and cylinders) can be joined to the rear section (intake manifold and accessories).

Dr Dave
11-20-14, 07:50 PM
A pipe that holds the spark plug leads is mounted to the rear of the intake manifold and I have removed the molded brackets and replaced them with brackets made from a coke can. The pipe is painted with MrMetalColor Copper 215, and the brackets are left as they are from the can. The brackets get holes drilled in them and are screwed in place (no glue).

Dr Dave
11-20-14, 08:28 PM
Once this is in place, the engine needs to be mounted to the brass stand to be able to attach more parts as it has now become too much to handle just laying on the bench. I use a small mixing bowl with a soft rag draped over it to support the engine while screwing it to the stand. All the spark plug leads can now be installed, very carefully.

Twalther
01-03-15, 05:41 PM
Should I start a new thread or stay with this one as I am building the same model?

Egon
01-03-15, 07:20 PM
Your own new thread I think.

Dr Dave
01-18-15, 10:11 AM
Tom, your own thread would be better.

ScaleMotorcars
01-18-15, 10:28 AM
Should I start a new thread or stay with this one as I am building the same model?

New thread would be best. Looking forward to it. 1thumbup1

Dr Dave
04-11-15, 08:27 AM
It's about time I got back on here to show you a bit more of this engine build.
The next step is to attach the intake and exhaust pipes, but first the locking rings need to be installed. They're the gold rings with notches on the intake manifold.

Dr Dave
04-11-15, 08:42 AM
That's got the first in and out pipes on, now for a few more. I keep adding them till they are all on.

camwader
04-13-15, 04:15 AM
That's looking really good Dave.

Dr Dave
04-29-15, 05:45 AM
Thanks Jon. It's almost done now. Only the push rods to be installed and then it can go on its display base.

chassisdude
05-04-15, 06:47 PM
WOW Dave outstanding my friend..Cant wait to do mine maybe when the hand gets healed up ill give it a shot..Super clean as usual...1nworthy11nworthy11nworthy1

joep
05-05-15, 06:17 AM
Very nice work I really like it thanks for posting.

Dr Dave
05-07-15, 09:03 AM
Thanks Joe.
Thanks Mike. You look after that hand, and don't go doing anything silly. Ok? At least not until it's better, then you can go and do silly s#!the1he

I'll get this finished soon, so keep an eye on here.

Maybe I should then go over to the bike section and put in my chopper and bobber. It looks like it's been a bit quite in there for a while now.
What do ya reckon?

Dr Dave
05-23-15, 05:31 AM
The push rods are now in place. It was easier to file the push rods to the right length to fit into position than to make each position the same distance. And besides that, the ends that attach to the crank case needed to be filed at a slight angle to fit flush. Each rod was brush painted with gloss clear to preserve the polished finish.

Dr Dave
09-23-16, 10:22 PM
After all this time I finally get back here to give you the photos of the finished model. Bet you thought it was never going to happen.

Dr Dave
09-23-16, 10:55 PM
A few more mug shots a bit closer to show more detail.

Dr Dave
09-23-16, 11:31 PM
A bit closer.

xken
09-26-16, 02:51 PM
Looks fantastic! now build a bike around it. I once saw a picture of a bike with a rotary engine, I think it was built in England.

Dr Dave
10-03-16, 01:21 AM
Thanks Ken.
I have seen a few photos of bikes with this type of engine jammed into them, both longways and crossways. Don't think I'll be getting around to doing that any time soon.

camwader
10-24-16, 02:19 PM
That is a real work of art Dave, absolutely superb. I really must get one with my 1/12 Wright Cyclone.

bbvet
12-27-17, 10:00 PM
Dr. Dave,

I found your WASP while Googling - it's nice to have someone else's fine work as an example to use when I get lost!!! I bought the Williams kit a week or so ago and WAS going to put it in my retirement stash, but....since I'm on PTO for another few days, what the hey, right? I also found the same photos that you are using as a painting guide - much more interesting than the std. black/silver/gunmetal/brass, etc.

While I'm not going to replace the various kit nuts/bolts with metal ones, your build is a really good example of how the finished engine should look. I've found the same problems with the kit (excessive flashing, hard to align part halves, etc.) as you describe in your posts. I also purchased the Williams 1/32nd scale F9C Sparrowhawk which will be stashed as I've got an on-going large scale USS NEW JERSEY in progress. I've read a review that it shares these same kit maladies, so I guess this is a common Williams Bros. trait. Still, I think the final product will be worth sitting on my desk once it is completed!

I've enjoyed (and will refer back to it as reference) your build and appreciate the fact that you chose to put it online!

JohnReid
03-14-18, 07:23 PM
Love this build!