View Full Version : Article: 1/12 Scale 1869 Allerton Steam Pumper

Pages : [1] 2

02-12-13, 04:57 PM
Here is a link to the Model Expo announcement. I will now start to post build pictures now that the announcement has gone public.



Here is a picture of the real 1869 Allerton


Ken 1gramps1

02-12-13, 05:46 PM
I started with the expansion two tanks since I realized that these would be the hardest to produce and would need the most development time to resolve. These show them finish turned in aluminum and polished while still attached to the parent stock. They have been cut off and drilled to reduce some of the weight and I now have two of each cast in white metal to work with. Eventually they will have a copper finish.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/922/Expansion_Tank_03.jpghttp://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/922/Expansion_Tank_01.jpg

To take a break from CAD drawing I then started to turn the two upper portions of the smoke stack with some spare aluminum round bar I had left over from the Model T build. I also visited the local recycling yard and found some additional round bar for the rest of the stack; but will wait until it warms up a bit since I will have to use the 10" lathe in the garage. The picture below shows the two parts, the part on the left wi

Here the two are stacked as they will be when assembled together.


Next will be the frame build which is the most critical component since it will be the foundation that all components will be added to and built up and down from. Kind of like the chassis of a car.

Ken 1gramps1

02-12-13, 06:04 PM
Nice expresso machine he1he it will be interesting to follow, working steam ??

02-13-13, 06:22 AM
Egon, Small expresso machine but great for only sips of coffee. No live steam this model is being built at 1/12th scale to be a kit for Model Expo Inc.

Here is the start of the frame assembly, this component will be cast as one piece and will be the foundation for the build.
This shows the side rails and the center band for the boiler. The half round detail was made by temporarily soldering a 1/8" diameter rod into a U channel as a holding fixture and then one surface was filed off flat. The ends were then relived to enable the overlap onto the frame section.


Here is a close up showing the overlap detail and the addition of the mounting bolts that are 00-90 size. Once cleaned up of solder the bolt heads were filed down to a more correct height.

This is an overview of the frame showing the start of the front water pump box with the small (cast) expansion tank in place. The great challenge with this assembly is enabling the part to be cast in one piece 8-3/4" long with metal to flow and form the ring. To do this .100" wall is needed on the side rails, note the beveled inside surfaces to maintain a thin top surface in appearance yet attain the .100" flow channels. The holes are for the flywheel shafts with molded in flat bearing surfaces.

The cast small expansion tank set in place. Eventually this tank will have a copper finish. The driver seat will be located above this.

Here is the start of the front axle mount assembly which is a separate component from the frame and the lower half of the water pump box. The threaded retaining bolt shaft is 1-72 threads.
The drilled holes are for the bolt heads that will be cast in on the flange on three sides.

This build will be slow going due to all the detail involved balanced with the need to make sure production casting requirements are maintained. This model will be 98% cast metal parts and be the first kit ever offered of a horse drawn fire apparatus.

Ken 1gramps1

Don Garrett
02-13-13, 09:49 AM
Well.....you got me with this one Ken. Looks like down the road I'll be needing to send Model Expo another order. 1thumbup1

02-13-13, 10:54 AM
This is a beautiful subject of which I am sure you will replicate just as beautifully. I have always been fascinated with early firefighting equipment.

02-13-13, 04:22 PM

02-14-13, 06:55 AM
Here the 00-90 bolts were soldered to the flange using the drilled holes. Bolt heads also added to the axle hub flange and bottom surface of pump box. I then cut, fixtured and soldered the brake pivot shaft in position.


Next I turned the axle pivot grease catcher out of aluminum not having a piece of round brass bar the needed size. Then I turned the axle pivot center with two locating pins for the axle halves. (Waiting for brass order to arrive) The retaining collar (top disk) was cut, this will have a stabilizing bar added to it that attaches to the lower rear bracket on the boiler. All is held in place with the axle retaining nut, 1-72 size.

Now the front pump shaft locators were turned and soldered in place. These allow access to the internals of the pump for maintenance and repair. Across the hex flats the size is 7/16" for a sense of scale.


This shows the front with the small expansion tank set in place.


Hopefully my brass stock order will show up today. Ordered last Friday

Ken 1gramps1

02-15-13, 02:32 AM
Talk about humbling, you do all this without the proper stock. That is truly impressive!!! 1nworthy11nworthy11nworthy1

02-15-13, 06:09 AM
Amazing work Ken..Im looking forward to diving into brass building...(baby steps for me of course) Watching your work progress and reading your book really helps ..Great stuff..

02-15-13, 07:47 AM

you do all this without the proper stock It is a Marine thing adapt and overcome! Still waiting for the delivery.

Michael, you to can do it! I hope the book helps and if you have any questions just ask. Just remember every journey starts with the first step.

Ken 1gramps1

02-18-13, 07:36 AM
Now I moved forward to the water intake valve. First I had to thicken the lower portion of the pump box. First I turned a disk with a aligning hole and used an aluminum tube to hold in place when being soldered. Then the valve body was turned with an indexing rod the same size as the hole, handles will be added to this part. I then turned a brass bar to the needed size and then very carefully sawed a half round wedge the thickness and length needed.


I then drilled a 1/32" hole to be used with a scribe to hold in place while being soldered. Once soldered in place I then drilled the hole through the pump body and inserted a rod and soldered it place to hold the wedge during future soldering operations.


This shows the rod soldered in place. Note that 50/50 soft solder was used as a filler on the front edge. Solders at a lower temperature than the Staybrite solder.


Two handles were turned and soldered in place into the valve body. This part was turned to allow water to be sucked into the pump from a hydrant or water source. Next was the hose attachment nozzles. Two parts were turned starting with 3/8" diameter rod then turned as needed, counter bored on the ends to indicated tube and then threaded with a 1/4-28 die. The parts were then sawed at two mating angles and soldered to the valve body. This shows the roughed in phase and will be filed to blend the transition from the body to the round shaft eliminating the sharp edge seen in picture.


Here is an overview to see the relationship of the parts so far. Now the filing to blend the transition on the valve body. Then onto the upper portion on the pump body.


My brass stock shipment arrived just in time Friday afternoon to enable this valve to be built.

Ken 1gramps1

02-19-13, 07:03 AM
I started the upper portion of the pump box by building the bottom flange and sides with the two holes drilled in the side for the hose valve attachment points. Then thinking ahead to the acorn nuts (again like playing chess be a few plays ahead) I decided before adding the top to add the large expansion tank base and acorn nuts.

To minimize the side joint I decided to bevel the mating edges of the box and top part as seen below.


Here the top surface was marked with blue ink from a marker to draw upon with a scribe point. The center circle is where the expansion tank base will be located and center drill point spotted as well as the perimeter locations for the acorn nuts.


Next came the tank base which was turned starting with a 3/8" diameter rod that was flared to meet the top and the turned in flange was then highlighted with blue ink and then carefully hand filed into the 12 sided flange shape needed. The large bent tube shape will be added to the round boss on the top.


Then the acorn nuts! These are challenging my eye sight since I am starting with 5/64" hex bar and turning them with made tool bits and they are 5/32" high. They have a 1/32" stem that is inserted into the holes and then soldered from below on the bevel to maintain the clean detail on the top. This is why the top could not be soldered to the box first. Once completed then the top will be soldered to the sides. Here you can also see the sides of the 12 sided flange.


Back to making acorn nuts. The two front corners will have the bracket for the seat mount so those two will need longer stems and will be cut last.

Ken 1gramps1

02-20-13, 06:32 AM
Beautiful workmanship..What is the scale of this build ?

02-20-13, 09:50 AM
Ken is not capable of doing anything less then beautiful work. Beautiful seems to be his baseline and it only gets better from there.

02-20-13, 05:27 PM
Michael, I cannot post from my work computer anymore, I type a message title and that is all that will happen and I get a message "reply to short" I can do everything else no problem.

The scale is 1/12th and my good eyesight with no magnification is being pushed to the limit on these acorn nuts.

Thank you both for your compliments. 1thumbup1

Ken 1gramps1

02-21-13, 06:25 AM
Finally have them all done, at least for the pump top. I ended up making 30 to get 24 acceptable ones. Turning this small was a bit of a challenge for the old eyeballs.

Here is a picture of some "in progress" nuts with one still on the 5/64" hex rod. The two lower ones were rejects.


This shows a "gaggle" of nuts with the penny for scale; the one on the upper left is a reject just for comparison. The shafts have a slight taper and the holes in the pump box top were reamed for a press fit to hold them in place for soldering.


This shows them soldered in place. The two front ones with the longer stems are just set in place. I will have to make the seat mounting brackets first and these two corner nuts will hold the brackets in place. Also I have to locate a boss for a gauge in the lower right area.


One lesson learned for the next time is to setup and turn all at the same time. I found that doing a few at a time caused variance, but once I had time to do a dozen I got into a mode with no disruptions and they went quickly and consistently.

Ken 1gramps1

02-21-13, 07:19 AM
Class work, I wondered at the first picture, what are the many grease nipples. gringrinhe1he



02-21-13, 08:26 AM
Acorn nuts not grease nipples, this is the gauge on the left and the valve on the right that I need to locate and make. You can see why they are called acorn nuts and how the modern ones have been simplified for production.

Looks like those you posted are aluminum and were made on an automatic CNC screw machine, wish I had one.

Ken 1gramps1


02-24-13, 07:38 AM
Continuing on the upper half of the pump box I turned the parts for two hose valves. These are the valves that the firemen attached the hose to enable to fight the fire, one on each side of the pump box. The threads are 1/4-28 to attach the hoses to the valves.

The two turned parts were press fitted together and the small "rabbit hole" in the bottom was to add the solder into and in heating the rest of the assembly with the tip of the iron the solder then flowed down and around the shafts with minimal cleanup on the joints needed. The bottom was then filed flat. The small vertical stem on top will have the open/close handle to be added later. Also the top shoulder needed a slight radius so rather than try to turn that small I just flowed it in with Statbrite solder before the main soldering operation.


This shows the hose valves in place on the box as well as the gauge, and small valve, location posts for a petcock on the side and pipe line on the rear. The two front corner seat attachment points have been added as well.


Here is an over view of the box setting on the frame. The seat attachment points are better to see in this view.


Now back to the handles and petcock. Please pardon the image distortion in using the closeup setting on the camera.

Ken 1gramps1

02-26-13, 12:18 PM
Man that is looking really good Ken. When I grow up I want to be able to do this level of work!he1he

02-26-13, 05:53 PM
David, you can do work just like this, just plan ahead, work slowly and just do it! SF

Here I added the handles to the hose valves, note that I puddled solder on the top of the handle to form a dome on the handle end on the stem. Then shaped them with needle files to match.


Here I slit some stock to add the resting flange for the boiler tube and facilitate the flow of metal when cast. The brass strips were annealed and then very carefully formed on edge to mate to the inner diameter of the ring and soldered in place.

I also started the steam cylinder housing that rests in the frame rails, this is a bottom view. I had to bore a solid brass rod and then slit it to the correct section needed.


Here is a close up of the front pump box pieces parts in place.

Here is an overall view the card stock tube represents the lower half of the boiler tank which will be stainless steel when done. Here you can see the cored out steam cylinder housing.

Now to finish up the steam cylinder housing and then things will get real interesting filling in between the front and rear with all the drive mechanism.
Ken 1gramps1

03-02-13, 09:02 AM
Spent some time building this steam box that required some tight tolerances due to scale. Here is an overall view of the finished assembly outside the frame. The penny provides a sense of scale.


Here are the parts broken down. All the parts are fabricated hollow to keep the overall weight to a minimum when cast. This shows the outside surfaces of the box. Note the lid had to be made separate to avoid an undercut situation for casting.


This shows the inside of the parts.


Here is the lower half setting in the frame, indexed in place from the bottom side of the frame. This part will be painted black in the finished model being made of cast iron.


This shows the assembly in place in the frame. The card stock tube represents the boiler surface, the two round fittings are where the steam piston arms will attach.


Now to the center area mechanism which will be interesting to sort out.

Ken 1gramps1

03-02-13, 10:58 AM
Hi Ken, If you can find a copy of Osbourne's Modern Marine Engineering (ancient engineering now) It has a very good section on double acting pumps like this, and will fill in the technical details to arrange your fantastic parts plausibly.

03-02-13, 11:06 AM

I have even a better source, I am working from the real 1869 Allerton Steam Pumper in the local museum. There were literally 100's of locally designed and built machines. There were only 5 of the Allerton's built and even they had personalized features.

Here is a picture of the 1:1 Steam Pumper


Here is just one of many reference pictures I am using. this shows the drive mechanism with the steam box on the right and the water pump box on the left. This central area is what I will be working on next. I have actual dimensions of every component and if I need more I just go to the museum.


Thanks for the book reference!

Ken 1gramps1

03-06-13, 06:54 AM
Now moving to the bottom of the pump box I cut and soldered the support blocks for the steam fitting that is attached to the bottom of the right side steam cylinder. A petcock to drain water will be added later to the hole location. This part is a combination of a turning and rod all soldered together. This part has two location pins that index into the cylinder and press fit in place for now. The bolt heads are 00-90 size. The two upper ones in the frame are holding the assembly in place for construction purposes.


Here is a left side view. On the right are the drive arms to the pump.


This is a front view. Here you can see the attachment points for the drive arms coming out of the steam cylinders.


Here is a closeup of the pump drive arms. The ends of the rods will have the vertical slides on them. These arms are .125 diameter.


Here is an overall view so far. Next I will work on the two flywheels that will index in the two holes in the sides of the frame.


Ken 1gramps1

03-06-13, 07:18 PM
The detail is impeccable....Its hard to tell that its 1/12 scale...Beautiful work Ken...

03-07-13, 06:39 AM
Michael, thank you for your kind words, it is a bit of a challenge at this scale but still larger than my 1/16th scale WWI airplanes.

Here I have moved on to the flywheels and started with a CAD generated paper pattern, drilled hole locations for the insertion of the saw blade and inside radii. Then very carefully sawed out the inner sections to be removed. This sheet is .040" thick and had to cut two of them. The flywheel OD is 1 5/8" diameter.


Here is the cut out part. I use the dividers and blue marker to true up the part diameters with files. The divider scribe lines are very fine and show up very well in the light.


This shows how well the the scribe lines show up in the light. These are the outer layers and the inner lines are reference lines to file to to form the bevel edges.

This shows the various stages of the flywheel parts. The aluminum piece is a fixture I turned to use when truing up the beveled parts.The beveled edges are hand filed then carpet tapped to the aluminium fixture, then chucked in the lathe. Then the inner and outer beveled edges are trued using a file and slow speed on the lathe. The lower left shows a beveled parts just off the lathe.
The three parts are then soldered together and cleaned up of excess solder.

Here is the soldered flywheel test fitted on the 3/32" drive shaft. The flywheel will need bearing shoulders on each side added to space the flywheel off the frame and links.


Now to finish up the second flywheel and add the shoulders to both.

Ken 1gramps1

03-07-13, 10:31 AM
I am speechless...WOW!

03-07-13, 11:41 AM
I am speechless...WOW!

Now thats a "FIRST" 1rolling11rolling11rolling11blah1

03-07-13, 02:02 PM
Hi Ken,

have received your book on Monday and I'm thrilled.
Now here is the building report.
This is real inspiration to me.

03-09-13, 06:47 AM
Marek, I hope you find the book enjoyable and useful.

Just a quick update, finished up the second flywheel and then moved on the the center support brace and bearing for crankshaft between the two flywheels. Here is the start of the brace which is press fit between the walls of the front pump box and rear steam box. From here on out parts will be getting smaller and smaller with tolerances even tighter. This is what makes the building experience enjoyable the challenges and problem solving.


Now to finish up the brace before moving on to the linkage.

Ken 1gramps1

03-09-13, 08:02 AM

yes, thank you, I'm starting to translate it fully, even as I have with other books as well The Car Modeller 1 & 2 of G.Wingrove did.

03-09-13, 09:40 PM
Simply fantastic Ken!

03-15-13, 07:45 PM
Here is a series on building the drive links for the crankshaft. First I calculated the center to center dimension and drilled a 3/32" hole at each location. Then using the hole as reference cut and filed the link to size around the holes. To make the three additional ones I CA'ed the first to the bar stock and scribed the perimeter and drilled the holes using the first set of holes as a guide.


Once all the holes were drilled and rough shaped I then slipped all four onto 3/32" rods and then finish filed all to identical shape.


This shows them dry fitted to the slide frame with the slide in place. The slide still needs to be cross filed half round to fit the top spacer tubes on the frame.


This shows the slide frame in place dry fitted to the pump arm with the links in position on the rod representing the crankshaft location. Also the center brace and bearing cap are press fit in place as well.


Here is a close up of the finished slide in place on the track of the slide frame, this was made from 1/8" square bar seen in place as a spacer in the first picture above. Eventually the slides will be soldered in place to the crankshaft for ease of assembly in the correct locations. The right side will be centered top to bottom on the slide frame and the left at the top of the frame.


Now to the rest of the assembly and crankshaft. The challenge is to be able to balance the casting requirements with those of ease of assembly. Thinking ahead this drive system is like building a boat in a bottle.

Ken 1gramps1

03-15-13, 08:57 PM
What you are doing Ken is both beautiful and bewildering. The cranftsmanship is top drawer but looking at those pics I can not imagine how that would work. I can not see how that vertical element is going to go around the crank without hitting. God I love vehicles from pre 1970...as long as they wear a Bowtie.

Okay Okay...I've owned others and I still have a Ford truck. Don't go beating up on me just beacuse you are a Mopar guy or Mustang lover. I am sorry though.he1hehe1hehe1he

03-15-13, 10:00 PM

The next few pictures will make it much clearer.The piece you are thinking it will hit will be cut away on the crank. Here is how it works, the arm pushes out from the steam cylinder while the other is returning; the slides go up and down inside the frame glides pushing or pulling the frame in a horizontal position. The same principle as the drive wheel on a train except this action is horizontal and the flywheels aid getting through top dead center.

This running at full speed had to be one hell of a scary thing to be around. he1he

Here is a picture of the real deal, get a beer and study it.gringrin


Ken 1gramps1

03-16-13, 06:36 AM
Here is a further along in progress picture of the drive system. The rear arms to the steam cylinders still need to be added. The part you were thinking of is gone and you can see how the crankshaft works.


Here is a close up. This shows the center bearing beam support and oilier for lubricating the bearing. I have to make more oilers for the top of the slide frame and flywheel bearings as seen in the picture of the real system.


Here is a parts layout so far showing the various components. More still have to be made.


Back to work, today I have to help the wife at a craft show. 1what1

Ken 1gramps1

03-17-13, 12:07 PM
Here the steam cylinder drive arms have been added and the flywheel bearings have been turned down for external linkage.


Ken 1gramps1

03-17-13, 12:15 PM
Okay, I get it now and I agree that is a LOT of mass turning with no real protection! I would imagine that it didn't do to many rpms but even at say 80-100 rpm I would like to see it...from afar!

03-20-13, 01:03 PM
I am still speechless and Mike.......1moon1 1rolling11rolling11rolling1

03-20-13, 05:00 PM
I have all the drive system sorted out and fitted for now so for a change of pace I shifted to the tiny stuff.

Here are the oilers that are in the top links of the frame that lubricate the bronze slides. I have to make two more that will index into the top of the main frame rails to lubricate the flywheel bearings.


These are the start of the steam cylinder metering valves mounted in the cross-over pipe. Another valve and round handle will need to be added facing to the rear in the center of the ball shape on each. Then the center area will be added to the cross-over pipe. It helps having good eyesight working this small. The two risers for the cross-over pipe were turned by starting with 1/4" hex bar.


Here is a little farther away overall look that also shows the oilers in place.


Now to continue on finishing up the tiny metering valves bits and pieces in duplicate.

Ken 1gramps1

03-20-13, 05:04 PM
Tiny stuff? gringrin This build is stunning to say the least Ken..You are indeed a master craftsman...

03-21-13, 06:45 AM
Michael, thank you for your kind words. Here are the second set of valves added to the first. Next will be a horizontal box affair between the two vertical valves.


The horizontal valve bodies were turned starting with 1/16" hex bar, post on one end to insert into the ball and a 1/32" hole drilled on the other end to receive the flared knob with a stem on it; all then soldered together. The stems were "tinned" first with solder then press fit into the holes, fluxed and then the iron added to the part (the ball shape and top of the knob) to flow the solder with no solder on the clean tip of the iron. A form of sweat soldering.


Now to move on.

Ken 1gramps1

03-21-13, 02:17 PM
Did Mike say stunning? I am not totally sure but I think those phazers were set to kill. WOW!

03-21-13, 06:57 PM
I have to ask but what are you using for reference ...do you have access to the original plans or do just happen to have one of these things in your garage....Just curious....gringrin
I like the mechanical aspect of this build....all the working parts are visible...Just amazes me..

03-21-13, 10:58 PM
Michael, I am working off a real steam pumper that is 1.2 miles away from where I live and it is in the Wayne County Historical Society. I have unlimited access to it thanks to a deal between the Society and Model Expo. This will be a kit offered by Model Expo when I am completed doing the prototype for duplication, the plans and assembly instructions. To the best of my knowledge this venue of horse drawn fire fighting apparatus has never been kitted and that this will be the first of a new category for Model Expo of fire fighting apparatus.

Here is the picture of the real steam pumper that I am taking all the measurements I need to be as accurate as possible. You may recognize some of the parts I have made already looking closely at it.

Ken 1gramps1


03-22-13, 11:52 AM
Extremely great work as usual Ken. Are you going to NAMES in April? Maybe I can get to see it in the flesh or should I say metal.

03-22-13, 06:39 PM
George, Thanks I am going to try and make it I will send you a PM when I know for sure.

Here are more parts for the valve assembly. I milled the crossbar and added a locating pin for the small rectangular box turned the stems and cut and formed the half round support bracket. The holes in the bracket will be for 1/32" simulated screw heads


Here the parts have been assembled and soldered together. The box and valve handle are just press fit in place


Here is another view of the assembly.


Ken 1gramps1

Dr Dave
03-23-13, 09:03 AM
Ken, I can't say any more than has already been said about how good your work is.1clap11clap1 But I would like to say thank you so much for being such a great inspiration to all of us who are watching you create this work of art.1nworthy11clap1
Thanks mate.

Don Garrett
03-23-13, 02:48 PM
Yep, had to order the Buckboard and now I'm going to have to go back to the piggy bank for this one.
Now that Model Expo is marketing Ken's stuff......well you know how that is, gotta have it just in case, who knows...might even get the bug to build them one day.
Although I'm a car guy, this stuff is just too hard to pass up.....especially when ME offers them at discount sale prices!
I ordered the buckboard at a big discount from retail and it'll come with free paint.

This steamer is going to be broke down with metal parts.......what more could you ask?

03-23-13, 06:59 PM
Ken, are you making the flywheels and pistions working ?

03-23-13, 07:05 PM
David, thank you for your feedback it is appreciated. Don, you better get a bigger piggy bank! gringrin

Egon, no this will be a static display model. Although it could be made to turn by hand; no steam.

Here is the lathe setup I use for turning small parts or simulated bolts or nuts when needed. I turned a tapered shaft using hex bar to receive a number 1A 0--1/4" Jacobs chuck I found for $2.00 at a rummage sale. This allows the holding of sizes smaller than the lathe chuck will hold. Here you can see the lathe chuck holding the smaller chuck.


Here is a close up of turning a 5/64" hex to simulate bolts needed to mount a flange to the boiler surface. The shaft is turned down to 1/32".


Here the first bolt head can be seen in the flange sitting against the boiler wall (card stock). The holes drilled in the flange are 1/32" and the solder is added to the backside of the bolt shaft sticking through the flange hole. This keeps the bolt head detail clean and sharp for casting. Once soldered the excess stem is cut off and filed smooth.


Here is the in progress assembly which I think is some form of safety relief valve with an arm that connects to an adjustment mounted on the center bar just to the rear of the support bearing. The two horizontal pins just above the angle will be used to mount the bar pieces. You can see the flange with the bolt heads in place. This flange will be added and glue to the side wall of the boiler when the kit is being assembled.


Just slow going sorting the mechanics out and building the parts, kind of like a 3D puzzle only you get to make your own parts.

Ken 1gramps1

03-24-13, 07:27 AM
Added the lever arm to the horizontal pins. The ends of the 1/16" bar was drilled using 3/64" drill bit to slip onto the pins; then the ends were filed to match the angles and contour shapes needed. The ring on the long arm was turned and then a notch was filed into the end of the arm for a stronger indexing joint. Then both sides were soldered in place.

The thin rod was to verify the proper alignment to the center brace. The camera lense distortion causes it to look odd but it really is perpendicular to the center brace.


Now for the rest of this assembly parts to be done.

Ken 1gramps1

03-24-13, 10:41 AM
I need to program a hot key so I can say "WOW! 1nworthy11nworthy11nworthy1" easier. Between this build, Dan's Talbot Lago and a couple of others I am wearing out the corresponding keys on my keyboard!

03-25-13, 08:54 AM
Here I have added the rear lever arm link that was formed from two pieces soldered together and then thickened with two more small pieces for casting. 00-90 bolts were then added.

Here is an overall view with the U.S. penny for size reference.


Here is a close up showing the assembly from the front of the lever arm to the frame center brace. The 3/64" rod is lightly threaded and the adjusting knob is slipped on.


Next I will address the mechanism from the flywheel to the steam box and boiler. The location for these are the holes in the side of the steam box. the lower one will go to the boiler, the upper is from the flywheel with a lever arm.

Ken 1gramps1

03-25-13, 11:08 AM
Itsy bitsy teeny weeny yellow polka dot bikinis! I need to make an appointment with the eye doctor, I am going blind just looking at this! I can not imagine designing something this intricate in such a small scale anymore. Mine eyes have seen the glory, but that was then and this is now and now I think I need new glasses! LOL (Hot key needed now!)

03-29-13, 07:29 AM
Here is the mechanism linkage from the flywheel to the lever arm on the steam box. More small parts and I am starting to feel like Noah making parts two at a time. gringrin

This is an overall right side view of the linkage with all being press fit together for now. The real challenge is keeping the crispness of these tiny parts for casting patterns.


This is a closer view looking at the oilier for the bearing. I made them by starting with 5/64" hex bar and turned down 1/32" stems on either side forming a hex nut. I then turned the bowl starting with 1/8" rod and drilled a 1/32" down the center of the rod, turned down the shape of the bowl with the lip for the cap and cut it off. Inserted the lower stem into a hole drill in the bearing cover surface then inserted the bowl on the upper stem and then carefully soldered together using 50/50 solder applied to the top of the bowl so the solder flowed down the hole in the top of the bowl.Then applied solder to the backside of the nut where it would be less noticeable and easier to clean the joint.


Here is a view of the lever arm end. A 00-90 bolt is holding the lever arm to the connection for now. The adjusting nut on the threaded end of the shaft is also 00-90 size. The hardest parts to make so far were the small 90 degree elbows that are behind the lever arm that index into the side wall with locating pins on each end with a tiny shoulder against the side wall.


So far my eyes are holding up and I have not had to use magnification, but we are getting close with these small ones. Next I will work on the pipes that run from the elbow to the boiler on each side.

Ken 1gramps1

03-29-13, 10:53 AM
Sorry if you get tired of reading this word Ken but...AMAZING!1nworthy11nworthy11nworthy1

04-02-13, 07:38 AM
Here I have added the pipes from the steam box to the boiler. First I annealed 1/8" rod and then after a great deal of fussing and bending to connect from the elbow on the box to the reference mark on the boiler. Once both lengths were formed cut and fitted with mating angles I then turned 5/16" hex bar to form the fitting which slipped over the end of the rod and mated with the boiler surface.


Here is a side view of the linkage with the pipes in place.

Here is an overall view with the assemblies cleaned up a bit with both sides finished for now.

Here is a close up of the last little detail added, the retaining screws for the bearing cover. First I carefully filed and sanded smooth the covers to remove the turning marks. Then I drilled the three .020" holes to receive 1.5 mm rivets that simulate the screw heads and soldered them in place from the backside.

Now I think I will now move on to the front axle first and then the rear which will require much more fabrication for the suspension.

Ken 1gramps1

04-02-13, 11:35 AM
Ken, I'm really enjoying this on two levels. There's the model, of course, I can hardly add any words there, but then there's the prototype. Steam up and down pumps were obsolescent by the time I went down the ladder to the engine room, and Osbourne doesn't have anything with valve gear drive like this. Trying to figure why an engineer designed this when a simple arrangement of levers would work, one guess is that he too was a modelmaker and wanted to leave an interesting prototype for the future. Great model, fine choice of original.

04-03-13, 06:57 AM
Buck, Yes there were many different configurations and sizes of these machines. This is a great subject to build with a few challenges which I enjoy problem solving. Keeps the rusty brain cells moving. he1he

The best laid plans often have to change; I arrived home from work last evening and besides my beautiful wife greeting me was a FedEx package from Model Expo containing the test laser cuts for the wheel fellows (rims) and spokes. The fellows are 1/4" plywood and spokes are 1/4" Basswood. Now the front axle will be set aside to verify and build the wheels and develop the building fixtures and assembly process. Ahhhh the smell of charred wood, the best way to remove the burnt char left by the laser is by using the back edge of the #11 Xacto blade at 30 degree angle as a scraper. Sanding tends to break the detail down.

Here is just a rough lay down of the spokes and fellow for the rear wheel.

This shows the laser cut 1/4" thick Basswood sheet of spokes. These wheels will be painted red on the finished kit.


Ken 1gramps1

04-03-13, 07:21 PM
Will the wheels have a metal band and hub? This will be a phenomenal kit when its produced..Museum quality ..

04-03-13, 07:31 PM
Michael, Yes it will have the metal tire and i am turning the first hub now and will post pictures when done. All four will be turned out of aluminum for now.

Ken 1gramps1

04-03-13, 09:31 PM
Here is the first cut of the wheel hub now just to make three more just like it. I start with a .95" bar so a few chips fly.

this shows it setting on the spokes, next I will make the fixture to assemble the wheel indexing the hub and fellow and then add the spokes inside the hub by angling them in and then glue to the fellow.

Here is a picture showing the cross section. Once I have the axles made there may still be a little tweaking to the outboard shaft length to accommodate the axle hub cap.


Now on to the fixture first.

Ken 1gramps1

04-04-13, 06:53 AM
Not being a wood person and too familiar with laser cut parts I made a very interesting observation about laser cut thicker wood parts. The laser cutting process builds in an automatic draft (angle) from the starting surface down to the finished surface that matches the CAD file dimensions. By inverting the spokes the angles on the end of the 1/4" thick spoke match the angle on the 1/4" thick rim and by press fitting the spokes into the hub I have a perfect press fit that is extremely strong at this point. Strong enough that it could support the model with no glue. I am now a firm believer in using CAD.

Here the spokes have been press fit in place into the hub without the use of a fixture. This also shows the relative size to the rest of the pumper.


This shows a close up on the hub and spoke junction. Too dark to see but the spoke shoulders match the top edge of the hub with enough of a gap between the spoke faces for expansion and good gap filling CA penetration.


Here is an overall view showing the size; the wheel O.D. is 5" without the metal tire in place.


Ken 1gramps1

04-04-13, 08:20 PM
Those are the biggest pieces you've made so far gringrin Was there a reason you used aluminum for the hubs instead of brass?

04-04-13, 08:58 PM
Michael, I used the aluminum for two reasons first I have it on hand and it was the closest to the size I needed. Second in the kit the actual parts for the hubs will be machined aluminum as they are in Model Expo's other wagons.

Yes it was a change to work on the larger pieces as well as wood.

Ken 1gramps1

04-06-13, 07:32 AM
To finalize the wheel hub geometry I had to sort out the axle ends and hub caps. This is a test axle shaft that I made to verify the final design and I started with the 1/8" diameter brass rod and turned the end down and threaded the end with 1-72 threads. I had already determined that a 1-72 size washer would work as a hub retainer locked against the shoulder with a 1-72 nut.

The bearing end of the axle shaft terminates with a square surface which is seen below. From this square the axle geometry will develop inward. This detail will be identical for all four axle ends. Keep in mind the front axle is a straight beam while the rear is a bent beam around the boiler.


This shows the wheel bolted in place with the 1-72 size retaining washer tight against the shoulder thus allowing the wheel to turn and also allow removal of the wheels when desired. Note the shoulder cut into the end of the hub; this is the shoulder that the hub cap press fits onto to allow removal.


Here is the hub cap press fit in place covering the end of the shaft with the nut and the wheel turns freely. Note the light pencil marks, these are just to let me know which way to orient the spokes during assembly to the hub and then to the rim to match the angles on the end of the spokes for a press fit.


Now to make the rest.

Ken 1gramps1

04-12-13, 06:43 PM
The other three will be easier...right? Great stuff as usual Ken! 1thumbup1

04-12-13, 08:20 PM
David, I made a duplicate of both the wheel hub and hub cap and sent them of to Model Expo's machinist supplier to quote and if awarded they will send me 8 of each for the build.

Now get your butt better and start working on the T. Semper Fi! Ken

04-12-13, 11:02 PM
I would be shocked if they denied your work!

04-13-13, 05:21 PM
Finished up the front axle after sending a master wheel hub and hub cap to be quoted for production. Here you can see one wheel hub and cap on the axle. I have also "tacked" all the parts together to show at the N.A.M.E.S. Show in Detroit next weekend as a work in progress along with the Western Buckboard. Sherline invited me to show in their booth and sell my book as well.


A little closer view.


And even closer.


Here is a link to the show. http://www.namesexposition.com/

Ken 1gramps1

04-14-13, 07:35 AM
I cleaned up the small expansion tank by wet sanding and sprayed again with the Krylon Copper Foil paint. This is the best paint that I have found that replicates a metallic finish. The trick is a smooth primed finish and light coats and I like to let the parts set over night before handling or sanding if necessary.


David this is a better example of what can be accomplished with this paint.

Ken 1gramps1

04-14-13, 07:44 AM
What a piece of machinery ! Simply amazing..1thumbup1

04-15-13, 04:39 AM
"Sherline invited me to show in their booth and sell my bool as well."

What's a bool? Sorry Ken, just had to say something other then "WOW!" again. he1he

SEMPER FI Brother!

04-15-13, 11:17 AM
David, Thanks if I could type and spell I would be dangerous!

Here I have started the front axle assembly by laminating two 3/32" layers together to get the correct thickness needed cut and shaped them then drilled each end of the halves and soldered them to the center pivot ring that was made much earlier.

The wheel shafts were turned and threaded then inserted into the rectangular plates that are the wear surface for the wheel hub. Solder filled between the plate and axle for the correct geometry at the ends. One wheel hub is in place.


Next the four #48 holes were drilled to receive the shafts for the hitch assembly braces that are bolted to the axle. I then started with a 3/16" diameter rod and turned the first shaft which has a taper from the axle forward. The axle ends are threaded 1-72 and the thin end is threaded 00-90. I have to make three more; one with the center bump for a cross brace joint and the two out board ones with no bump.


Back to turning shafts.

Ken 1gramps1

Here is a picture of the real deal.


04-16-13, 02:10 PM
Looks awesome! When are you going to make the milk can....er um....big tank thingy?

04-16-13, 05:22 PM
David, here is a drawing of the "big tank thingy" I have been waiting for it to warm up here in Ohio so I can turn these larger parts on my 10" Atlas. Spring is almost here and has been a long time coming this year.


As you can see I am getting a handle on learning CAD, but still have a great deal to learn as I stumble through the program figuring it out. Who says old dogs cannot learn new tricks.

I will finish up the front axle first and then move to the back end. The rear axle is curved and follows the contour of the boiler. It will be built much like the front only curved. Then the fun begins with attaching the structure from the axle to the boiler which supports the back end. I will have to work down from the frame belt line, I am starting to think whoever engineered this in the first place kind of made it up as he went along adding what was needed to make it work.

The T is looking good conceptually now Get' R Done.
Semper Fi! Ken 1gramps1

04-17-13, 11:20 AM
Heck Ken, you should be able to turn that in your sleep. By comparison it is huge considering some of the tiny parts you have had to engineer. Thanks for the input on the T, once I get the bracing done for the chassis I will need to rework the suspension mounting points to get it as low as it looks in the pic. I should be home this afternoon...God willing!

04-19-13, 12:30 PM
David, Glad to hear you are back home with family and dogs! Now get your butt to work on the T.

Here is the rest of the front axle assembly build. First the rest of the four tapered shafts were turned, and threaded. Then the cross shaft support for the tongue was turned and fabricated with an indexing pin.

Then the carrier bracket was started by drilling and milling a 1/4" square block with both end details that will be sawed apart.


Here is a closeup of the part with the scribe center line for reference. The holes for the shafts were first drilled and then carefully reamed to match the taper for a press fit to match the shoulders on the shafts.


Here are the two ends cut apart and two pieces soldered in place using the shafts as fixtures to form the box that the tongue will index into.


This shows the finished box press fit to the shafts.

This shows the front braces and all shaft joints soldered in place. I will have to make six acorn nuts to finish this assembly out as well as chain rings for the ends of the front brace.


Here is the test fit to the axle shaft; this is how it will be presented at the NAMES show.


If anybody can make it to the show in Detroit stop by and say hello. I will be there only on Saturday in the Sherline booth.

Ken 1gramps1

04-20-13, 12:39 PM
Very nice machine work Ken.

04-22-13, 06:47 AM
Here are pictures from the NAMES Show taken by Walt Herip a friend who attended the show as well. This is always a fantastic event with a very diverse selection of subjects being built. I took two boxes of books to sell and was sold out by 1:30 on Saturday. Again I wish to thank Sherline for the invitation and opportunity to show in their booth.

Ken 1gramps1


04-22-13, 08:26 AM
Is that you on the Picture Ken, always nice to put a face on member.
Any discount on a Sherline lathe for some members ?? gringrin

04-22-13, 08:53 AM
What CAD program are you using for your drawings. When you mentioned CAD earlier, I assumed you had meant the "Cardboard Aided Design." Looks like you moved up to the real deal now. 1thumbup1

And I have to say....while the Racer was an awesome project, the parts you are making for the fire engine just seems to be a lot cleaner and nicer work. Practice makes perfect?


04-22-13, 09:16 AM
Contact Craig Lebuse at
craig @ craftsmanshipmuseum.com
He may extend the show special to you, share that you saw my pictures at the show and were wondering if it were possible. Never hurts to ask.
Yes, that is me in the picture. I ordered my next lathe last Thursday and it will be here tomorrow; the 4400 with show package.

Mike, I still use the old "CAD" but have learned (still learning) Corel CAD. Model Expo needs .dwg files for laser cutting and photo etching of parts; as well, layouts for the plans. So old dogs (66) can learn new tricks; just wish I had learned it years ago.

I think the difference you are seeing is the difference between fabrication and machining. Most of the parts for this build are machined and I am slowly becoming a machinist as well and learning that as well. The scale for this is smaller as well at 1/12th.

Also visit this link Model Makers—Guillermo Rojas-Bazan (http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Bazan.htm) Guillermo and I sat side by side all day having great conversations. He was awarded the annual Craftsmanship Award for his 40 years of model building work. He fabricates everything by hand and uses no machines. Just incredible detail, well worth the look.

Ken 1gramps1

04-22-13, 01:35 PM
Thanks Ken, I think it would be to expencive to ship to Copenhagen from the US, I better find some local gringrin

04-22-13, 02:04 PM

Visit their website I think they list all their dealers on their website.


04-22-13, 08:59 PM
Speaking of your book...I guess I need to buy another copy. I can't find mine to save myself. Good to be able to put a face behind all this incredible work, aint it amazing how good looking all of us Marines are? I kindda got worried about weight issues regarding the T so I am in the middle of a brass tube chassis. I'll post some pics in the thread in a day or so.

This is me and mine. Semper Fi brother.


04-23-13, 06:47 AM
David, Great looking family! I am sure you have no shortage of love at your house; you are truly blessed. Semper Fi!

Here I finished up the forward hitch and formed the bar and metal brace as a unit for ease of casting as a complete assembly. The last details I need to add are the six acorn nuts to the end of the bars and the two chain loops at the ends of the forward bar.


Here is an overall view.


Here is a close up of the horse hitch attachment.


My Sherline lathe is to arrive this afternoon; it will be like Christmas in April. The spindle bearings are going in my current lathe so when things settle down I will replace them with good American made bearings. According to online "How to's" it is about a 5 hour process to tear down the machine, replace and rebuild. Just another project.


04-23-13, 11:14 PM
Another master piece in the making...........1clap1

04-24-13, 12:27 PM

Are these parts going to be die cast or spin cast? Will the heavier parts be hollowed out from below to remove some of the weight and shrinkage and save metal?

04-24-13, 04:31 PM
These parts are to be spin cast using vulcanized rubber molds. When ever possible and it is practical; these parts will be cored out to reduce weight and metal. Keep in mind these are 1/12th scale as well. So far the biggest and heaviest part is the large expansion tank.

Ken 1gramps1

04-24-13, 09:14 PM
My new toy all assembled and set up ready to make parts. Now I just have to move the old one out and do a little rearranging of the work bench. I am impressed with this machine I feel like I am stepping up from a VW Thing to a Rolls Royce. It will tale a little getting use to how smooth and quite it is. gringrin

Ken 1gramps1


04-25-13, 06:20 AM
Here is an example of the set up process and spending the time to check or verify the machine prior to making parts. First I cut down the diameter of a rod about a 5 inches using the live center to hold the free end. Then using calipers I checked the dimension the length of the cut for difference in size. I was expecting some and would have to adjust the head stock; however it was absolutely perfect.

Then I re-positioned the bar and using the cross slide cut a 10 degree cone shape on the end down to a point. Moved the slide out of the way and moved in the live center to verify the height and if shimming would be necessary and again much to my surprise the two points were dead on. Absolutely no adjustment needed. Great job Sherline!!!!!1thumbup1

Old Chinese proverb "You get what you pay for!"

Ken 1gramps1


04-25-13, 08:43 AM
Makes you wonder how Harbor Frieght stays in business doesn't it? Does this mean your parts are going to be getting even perfecter? That's hard to imagine!

04-25-13, 07:49 PM
Looks like you have created a new word. he1he I will have to get use to working with this new set up but I just finished my first acorn nut for the front hitch assembly and only five more to go.

Ken 1gramps1

04-26-13, 12:11 AM

04-26-13, 06:47 AM
David, now 100%. Here is one of the cross bar acorn nuts being turned with a post to insert into a hole in the frame. I am using 5/64" hex bar. Note that the tool bit is inverted and cutting on the backside. This allows full view of what you are cutting and the mounting of a second tool on the front of the slide if necessary. For example in the picture is a 1/4 x 1/4" tool and mounted in the front is the cut off tool.


Here is a front of the frame acorn nut, these were cut off the hex bar; reinserted into the chuck and drilled with a 1/32" drill bit to fit on the trimmed to length posts on the frame members. This operation was not possible with my previous machine.


Now to solder all these acorn nuts in place and make the chain attachment points on the ends of the frame member.

I am loving my new machine and have already ordered a few more accessories. gringrin

Ken 1gramps1

04-26-13, 01:37 PM
Finished up the front axle assembly with all the acorn nuts and eye bolts added and soldered in place. The eye bolts is where chains will later attach.

Here is an overall view of the assembly by itself.

Here is it is in place on the axle shaft. This is finished other than attaching the safety chains to the rear eye bolts from the boiler and the forward hitch chains.


This is a detail close up of the forward eye bolt that was formed using 3/64" rod and then threaded for a 00-90 nut. It was soldered in place for casting purposes.


This shows the main attachment for the hitch with the drop in eye bolt retainer. Also you can see the acorn nut in place as well on the end of the shaft. There were several styles and lengths of these acorn nuts used to assemble the pumper.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/922/ASP_front_Axle_17.jpg

This shows the crossover bar that supports the central hitch bar. The center area is wood wrapped in a metal strap denoted by the scribe line.


Here is the rear eye bolt where the safety chain from the boiler is attached, one on each side. These were threaded into the end of the shaft


Next I will start on the rear bands for the bottom and top of the boiler just like the center band only complete circles. These will be needed to start the rear axle area.

Ken 1gramps1

04-26-13, 03:36 PM
You are doing some very nice looking castings patterns. What fun. It looks like there is going to be a wonderful challenge in mold making. I miss that part of casting. It was just the boring,repetitive casting hour after hour that I didn't like and it kept me away from building my models. I am sure you will be very happy with your Sherline. I used them for my classes at the Guild School Castine, Maine. I had a dealership on them until Sherline changed its policy. My first one was a second hand brass bed Sherline lathe. The mill is also a must as a companion to the lathe. If you ever get one you will ask how you ever got along with out one.


04-27-13, 01:46 AM
Nice work Ken, Love how you get brass to look like models

04-29-13, 06:47 AM
Now I have started the boiler bands. The approach I have used is that of fabrication versus machining due to cost effectiveness and equipment. First I had to make two 12" half rounds by temporarily soldering a 1/8" rod to a U section for griping and then hand file to half round. Then I cut a 1/4" thick piece of basswood 3-1/16" diameter as a fixture. Then I cut and hand formed two 1/4" x 1/16" bands to fit around the wood fixture and soldered the ends. All pieces were annealed prior to forming.

Once the bands were press fit into the wood fixture and trued up the top and bottom edges were filed to radii on the edges of both.

This shows the basic parts with the 1/8" half round on the left, the raw 1/4" band in the middle and the band with filed edges on the right.


Here is the method I used to locate and solder the half round band in place using binding wire to get tight surface contact. On the left is a finished soldered band while on the right is the assembly ready to solder. The binding wire holds the band tight against the flat band but also allows for centering the band vertically around the the flat band before soldering. When up to temperature the wood fixture will become loose within the brass bands as you are soldering due to heat expansion. Let cool normally and allow uniform shrinking back to size and this also stress relives the assembly due to hand forming.


Patience is required to get the correct length and tight butt fit of the half round. This joint is soldered first and then I work around the clock soldering between the wires first, this allows the brass to expand due to heat uniformly and once the unit has completely up to temperature it is held vertically and the solder is added at the top allowing gravity to flow within the joint on both sides. Just remember that the binding wire get hot as well.


Here are the bands just set in place to show their relationship. A 1/2" x 1/16' band has been added to the bottom band and this will form the bottom of the boiler. It is soldered with it's top edge centered on the inside of the half round band to provide an indexing shoulder for the boiler side piece to fit into.

Now to finish up the bottom band and this will then be used as reference to form the rear axle. Just slow going to assure correct dimensions on all three bands while being hand formed.

Ken 1gramps1

04-29-13, 07:03 AM
Hi Ken,
Great fabrication work as usual. I'm sorry I didn't get to talk to you at NAMES. My wife didn't come with me so I couldn't leave my table lest I might end up with missing pieces.

04-29-13, 08:02 AM

Yes the couple of times I got to walk around you were busy talking with people and I did not want to interrupt. I did look at your rear end and it is looking great.

Have a great day!

Ken 1gramps1

04-30-13, 12:18 AM

The bands are awesome, this is going to be beautiful! Who gets to keep the prototype?

04-30-13, 06:58 AM
David, there are a great deal of follow on lines, but I won't go there. he1he

To continue on the lower boiler band I had to first saw it down to the correct height and then set it up in my indexing rotary table on the the mill and drill 36 3/32" holes for rivets. These rivets have cone shaped heads around the bottom. I just had to dig out the penny for size comparison. This is where the two set up feature of the Sherline cross slide really came in handy; I cut the 45 degree cone on the backside and used the cut off tool on the front side.


Here all the rivets are soldered in place with the solder being applied from the inside to keep the front clean and crisp in detail. I soldered them in batches of 6 to keep the heat level down so as not to overheat. Then let cool and clean with a half round file. It also broke up the cycle of machining all the rivets.


Here it is in place as it would be seen.


Ken 1gramps1

05-01-13, 01:14 PM
Sorry but I never did agree with the "Don't ask don't tell policy." If that is your choice so be it but not in my fighting position. The bands look sweet, won't be long now before it is time to build the rear axle.

05-02-13, 06:33 AM
Here I have started the rear axle by annealing two strips of 3/32" x 1/4" and forming to the needed arc and then bending the ends to the needed angle. I annealed each again at the bends to relive stress and for fine tuning the fit and proper angle. The parts were then clamped together and soldered first using the Staybrite solder and then 50/50 for fill on the top for an eventual smooth surface once excess solder is filed away.


Here is the filed part next to the lower boiler band which is why the band was made first. The arc of the axle is concentric with the boiler.


Here the axle shaft ends were thickened to the needed square dimension by adding an additional short piece and filed to match and cut to length on the right side. The left has not been cut yet. This thickened square end forms the bearing surface for the rear wheel hub.


I will finish up the left side and then make the threaded axle shafts and add them to the thickened ends.

Ken 1gramps1

05-02-13, 10:31 AM
After having taken on the endeavor of building a "simple" chassis for a T Bucket roadster I sure have a new appreciation for the complexity of what you are doing here. Just the front suspension brackets are butt kickers and they are just 4 holes in a bunch of brass pieces that need to all be soldered together...perfectly square and plumb.

05-06-13, 06:52 AM
David, just have patience and go slow and it will come. It takes just a little practice.

The formed axle was cut and filed square to the same width as the front axle assembly.

Then I machined and threaded the axle shafts and soldered them to the ends of the axle. 1/16" holes were drilled into the ends of the axle with a corresponding 1/16 turned down end on the shaft with a press fit to hold plumb while soldered.


Then I annealed two strips to form the U bracket that attaches to the ends of the axle; added a 1/16' rod drilled and soldered to the bracket. I then slipped a 3/32" tube over the rod as a stand off for the hex nut that is on the bottom of the shock absorber. These are just slip fitted for now. The two jam nuts are soldered in place which hold the attachment link to the boiler.


Here is an overall view with the front axle for reference. The short rod in the center of the rear axle is a locator guide for the boiler.


Next to move on to the shocks themselves which will slip down on the rods. The core of the real shocks is cork.

Ken 1gramps1

05-06-13, 11:13 AM
Looking awesome Ken!

05-07-13, 06:45 AM
Thank you David, how is your project doing?

Here is the rear shock absorber turned and bored with a 1/16" hole to slip on shaft. The smooth bands contain the bulbous cork core material on the real pumper.


This shows the two in place. The "cork" sections were taper cut away from the center and the ends rounded for the bulbous effect.


Now to start the mounting bracket to the boiler. First I turned two rings, filed flats on the sides and soldered them together. This is going to be a busy little area since it is the main attachment point with reinforcement brackets.


Starting to feel like Noah again making everything two by two. he1he

Ken 1gramps1

05-08-13, 11:09 AM
Darned nice work Ken! Chassis V2.0 is coming along well. Finally got the frame rails done so all that is left to make are cross members and trans mount...easy stuff I think. My surgery has been put off until Monday so I should have no problem getting it all soldered up by then.

05-10-13, 07:00 AM
Here is the layout of the brackets that mount to the boiler. They were both cut using the jeweler's saw the center holes drilled on both then a small rod inserted to align them and they were CA'ed together. Then the final shape filed to make them identical; then the bolt holes drilled. Once all the holes were drilled both were then annealed to make easier to form the bend needed to match the boiler wall.

Here is the the finished assembly in place with an indexing post that will insert into the boiler side wall. The 00-90 bolts were soldered in place after the brackets were formed; their shafts were then cut off. A 3/64" hole was drilled down the rectangular shape and a rod inserted through the bracket into the rectangle to locate and provide a mechanical inter lock for strength. Once soldered in place a 1/8" tube was turned and slipped on and soldered in place to form the indexing post.


This shows both mounting brackets in place. A round ball needs to be added to the top of the two shafts to finish them off.


Need to sit back and sort out the next move; which will probably be cutting and forming the boiler walls. I will use aluminum sheet to develop the patterns needed for photo etching the stainless steel parts for the kit.

Ken 1gramps1

05-10-13, 07:34 AM
Didn't you make a little shortcut with the cork dampers insted of 5 single peices here.

05-10-13, 08:38 AM
Egon, Yes I did, this is where the art of comprise comes into play balancing the cost effectiveness, ease of assembly and being a kit. If I were building this just as a one of a kind model for myself I would have used real hand carved cork and all individual pieces; and I would also be much farther along than I am right now; every part has to be temporarily assembled and then disassembled later on for casting purposes. Once all the brass components are made they will then be cast and I will then build the prototype using cast parts and write the instructions with photos for the final kit and complete the CAD plans.

The other challenge is the scale at 1/12th versus 1/8th which I would have preferred this to have been, but Model Expo's Trailways product line is 1/12th.

Ken 1gramps1

05-11-13, 07:56 AM
I moved on and fabricated the two aluminum boiler covers using .010" flashing used for roofing. First they were cut to height and then carefully formed around a spray can to develop the curve; then fitted into the bands and cut to length with 3/4" overlap.


Once satisfied with the fit; fine tuning and fussing was involved I then added the screw head pattern using a large pumice wheel on the inside surface using a steel ruler as a guide on a steel block. The steel block provides resistance to get a clean crisp head, I then followed up by pressing a scribe point into each hole created with the pumice wheel using uniform force for a better defined head pattern.


Here is a side view of the panels CA'ed in place for now to develop the rest of the braces and linkage required.

I just could not resist test fitting the rear wheel. I am still waiting for the wheel hubs to come from the supplier based upon the pattern I sent him.


Now to start all the bracing brackets and linkage. I will finish up those for the rear axle first and then move forward to the front axle.

Ken 1gramps1

05-13-13, 07:06 AM
I have taper turned, annealed and formed the vertical braces above the shock absorbers. The brace arm to the standing platform will attach in the upper hole of this brace.


I then added the brace arms from the bottom front of the boiler to the side wall of the frame. Then fabricated the main center brace attachment. Here is a closeup showing the bracket which adjusts front to rear with the 0-72 nuts on the threaded rod. The bracket in front has the holes to attach the chains that limit the travel of the front axle when turning.


Here is another view of the bracket, the chain attachments can be seen better here.


Here is an overall view of the brackets in place. The center bracket attaches to the axle pivot that holds the axle in place and the threaded adjustment is to keep the front axle plumb.


This is an overall view of the unit so far.


I will finish up the rest of the bracing and then move on to the rest of the parts needed.

Ken 1gramps1

05-13-13, 12:16 PM
Ken, is the top of the boiler angled towards the front, or is that just camera lens distortion playing tricks on me?

05-13-13, 01:10 PM
Steve, just camera lense distortion. In the old days with 35 mm cameras one could eliminate camera distortion by using a telephoto lense and zoom in. I have not figured out a work around with these new digital auto everything cameras. 1confused1

If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions please jump in. I have the Nikon Coolpix S6000.

Ken 1gramps1

05-13-13, 02:11 PM
I usually just stand back as far as possible and zoom in to frame the shot. That helps eliminate some distortion, although not all of it.

05-13-13, 06:46 PM
Steve, Here is a test shot, I did not use auto mode, set on landscape and used zoom until I was able to focus. All the way out would not focus. You are right much better,but still a little distortion and same concept as I described with 35 mm telephoto lens.

Will be experimenting more.


Ken 1gramps1

05-14-13, 01:10 AM
An artwork!

This image I would have framed and hung on the wall.
Adjusting this on a black background with soft lighting, perfect!

05-14-13, 08:30 AM
Marek, interesting I will have to see if I have something black for a background the next time I set up.

Ken 1gramps1

05-14-13, 02:25 PM

05-15-13, 10:31 AM
I go a couple of days without checking in and all of a sudden things go from really freaking nice to holy guacamole! Looking incredible Ken!

05-15-13, 04:41 PM
David, Glad to hear all went well and that you got rid of that extra carry on luggage. 1thumbup1 Now get back on your feet and post some more great work! Semper Fi!

Ken 1gramps1

05-15-13, 08:38 PM
Ken - this build really is wonderful to follow...fantastic progress1thumbup1

Cheers - Gusgringrin

05-15-13, 08:45 PM
every time I visit this thread Im just amazed...The level of precision and attention to detail is spot on..Beautiful piece of mechanical art..

05-16-13, 08:31 AM
Like Mike said!

Dr Dave
05-16-13, 08:54 AM
I third what Michael said. Just beautiful ! 1clap11clap1

The only disappointing part is that we live on opposite sides of the globe and I have no chance of seeing this with my own eyes1sad1.

05-16-13, 04:41 PM
Thank you guys for your kind words.

Gus is it spring in the Great White North yet?

Dr. Dave, yes a world apart but when the kit comes out you will be able to build one yourself.

Thanks again all!

Ken 1gramps1

05-18-13, 08:56 AM
Still working on boiler bracing and parts. Here are the side braces used to locate the boiler front to rear.


Next I made the vertical guide for the boiler that contained the substantial guidepost off the rear axle. I love the new Sherline lathe because I can now turn my own dummy bolt heads from both 3/64" and 5/64" hex bar with stems long enough to solder them in place from the backside. I could not do these on my Central Machinery lathe; the chuck jaws did not adjust to zero nor have the tolerance in cutting. An example of the ancient Chinese proverb "You get what you pay for!"


Next I will move onto the coal door which I will use to locate the standing platform in order to build it.

Ken 1gramps1

05-20-13, 06:29 AM
The coal door originally was cast iron and steel and very rusted on the original; it was probably just sand blasted and painted over.
Here is the curved door with the hinge parts soldered in place. To the right are the parts that make up the door latch and catch.


Here are the parts are all soldered together, just a little tricky soldering with these small parts. The four holes are air vents on the door. Here you can see the hinge pin was turned with the hinge joints cut in prior to soldering in place.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/922/ASP_Coal_Door_02.jpg

Here the door is temporarily taped in place on the boiler. The latch handle end has been rounded with a file. On the final model the door will be painted Satin Black.


Next I will move on to the standing platform now that the coal door is in place. The casting requirement for the flat stock and size is a minimum wall of .050" for the platform surfaces.

Ken 1gramps1

05-20-13, 06:08 PM

05-23-13, 06:39 AM
Here is the start of the coal bin which I used 1/16" stock to fabricate due to wall thickness for casting. After developing a card stock pattern I then formed the sidewall that is 3/4" high. This shows just the wall sitting in place, the lower band will be cut and trimmed to receive the bin once the mounting points have been added.


Here the bottom was cut out of sheet stock using the jeweler's saw, slow going with this thick stock. On the sidewall I added the flange shoulder for the bottom to rest upon and the reinforcing tube to the top edge. (facing down).


This shows the start of the soldering operation. First the two were held in place using binding wire around the sidewall perimeter and across the center. I then tacked the corners and then worked my way around alternating positions to eliminate any warping or distortion due to heat and not affecting the shoulder flange. Tacking versus a continuous joint keeps the heat build up to a minimum.


Here is a view of the inside of the bin after the soldering operation was completed. The excess solder that transferred was easily removed with an engraving tool and tip of an Xacto blade.


Here is the cleaned up bin set against the boiler. Right now it is too high and will index into the lower band that will be modified to receive it once the mounting brackets are made.


There are many more details to be added to this coal bin and it will be a mini model in itself.

Ken 1gramps1

Dr Dave
05-23-13, 08:36 AM
Ken, will the larger parts be cast in one piece for the kit? I'm not sure how large some of the parts actually are.

I know you use a coin in some of your photos for size comparison but I don't really know how big the coin is either as our coins down here are different to yours. Would you mind if I asked/suggested if you could use a ruler or something that could be interpreted internationally?

I've taken your book to my local model club meetings a couple of times now and all the guys go "HOLY ****, HOLY ****! And you know this guy?". It really freaks them out.

I love watching what you do, it's so different to what I do, and totally fascinating.1thumbup1

05-23-13, 10:07 AM
Looks like it will be big enough to hold a few TOOTSIE ROLLS! I like TOOTSIE ROLLS! he1he

Dr Dave
05-23-13, 10:31 AM
Looks like it will be big enough to hold a few TOOTSIE ROLLS! I like TOOTSIE ROLLS! he1he

1moon1he1he1rolling1 1no11wack1

05-24-13, 08:40 AM
David, It will hold 22 mini tootsie rolls. he1he help yourself.

Dr Dave, here are scales per your request; inches and metric. The US penny is 3/4" or 19mm in diameter.


Glad to hear that your club members enjoy the book. With all that holiness you must hold your meetings in a church. gringrin
Ken 1gramps1

Dr Dave
05-24-13, 10:19 AM
Thanks for the measuring stick Ken, now I can get a grip on the size of reality1thumbup1. (I can work in both mm & inches).

Oops, I think I may have misunderstood David. Sorry. What on earth are those tootsie roll things?

Ken, you don't want to know where we hold our club meetings. It's a bit like church1no1.
Oh alright, I'll tell you but you won't believe me. We actually use an empty building at a hospital for people with mental problems. Probably quite appropriate1confused11what1.

05-24-13, 12:56 PM
Dr Dave, Tootsie Rolls are semi hard chocolate chew candy, which also are one my wife's favorite candies. These are the mini (bite) size kind, but are also available in larger sizes.

Sounds like I would fit right in with your club meetings based upon where they are held. I have had people look at my models and say that I am crazy.he1he

Ken 1gramps1

05-24-13, 04:30 PM
1rolling11rolling11rolling11rolling11rolling11roll ing11rolling11rolling1

05-25-13, 09:43 AM
That would make an awesome Tootsie Roll holder on my desk....just sayin'.

Ken....superb work as usual!!! 1nworthy11nworthy11nworthy1


05-25-13, 04:13 PM
Someone ate all the tootsie rolls last night. gringrin

Once the basic coal bin was done I then was able to do the major surgery needed on the lower boiler band. First I had to make the two bin mounting brackets that hold the bin to the boiler with pins. Here is an upside down view of the mounting bracket and enhd of the pin.


With the brackets in place I was able to mark, saw and de-solder the section of the band that needed removal seen below and then very carefully clamped and soldered the bin to the lower boiler band. The challenge was to align on all three axis prior to soldering.


This shows the coal bin soldered in place with the brackets located. I need to check with the casting person to see if we can solder the whole unit with the brackets in place as seen; rather than separate brackets.

Here is a view with the rest of the unit in place and you can see how the mounting brackets are flush to the boiler walls and the simulated bolt heads in place.


Just another view showing the bin in relation to the coal door which is why the lower band needed surgery to get the proper clearance and fit. You can also see the formed angle bracket that reinforced the bin floor and forms the mating surface to the boiler wall. In the real pumper the coal bin is removable.


Now onto the coal bin braces that attach at the upper rear shock mount bracket and the rear corner of the bin, the holding handles and standing platform brackets attached to the rear of the bin for two men to stand on.

Ken 1gramps1

05-25-13, 08:06 PM
Hey Ken .. just out of curiosity, do you get to keep this original after all the molds and patterns are made?

05-25-13, 09:50 PM
Michael, No the masters are retained by the caster to make additional rubber molds as needed. I will get to keep the proof of production prototype that will be assembled from actual cast parts that I will also use to write the assembly instructions.

Ken 1gramps1

05-27-13, 02:18 PM
Darned Tootsie Roll thief! I'll bet that it could be built with the top of the boiler to be removable so that the Tootsie Roll stash can be hidden!

05-28-13, 06:46 AM
David yes the top could be made removable, but would be a pricey candy dish.

Here i have added the two grab handles and braces to the coal bin. The grab handles were turned from 1/8" round bar with a ball on the top. Then soldered to a square section of bar stock with a locating pin on the bottom of the grab handle. I then milled off a section to index into the sidewall of the bin. Two 00-90 bolt holes were then drilled and threaded in the square section and handles bolted in place.


The braces from the bin to the top of the shock mount were then formed. First I annealed just the 3/4" end section of a 3/32" rod, marked a line to match the top of the square section on the handle aligned the mark on the edge of the steel plate and hammered the flange into the desired thickness. This was done to both and then drilled and tapped and bent to the correct angle to mate with the top attachment point. The tops of the rod were then annealed to form the upper flange, drilled and bent to match while holding the long bottom flange in a vise and twisting to the correct angle holding the top flange. This just required fussing and several fittings to get perfect alignment.


Here is just an overall with the wheel in place for reference.


Next will be the standing step for the firemen that hung onto the grab handles for dear life at full gallop. It will be added to the rear wall of the coal bin.

Ken 1gramps1

05-28-13, 01:29 PM
Stunning Ken, simply stunning!

05-30-13, 06:57 AM
David, Thanks I hope your recovery is progressing well. Hang in there Marine.

The machinist supplier for the hubs got back with me and said that he was buried with lathe work right now and advised that it might be better for me to machine the rest I needed. I then proceeded to make the rest of the three I needed at this point.
I love my new Sherline lathe, the only regret I have is that I did not buy it years ago.

The auto focus on the camera was going nuts with the shiny aluminum reflections.

Also you can see the footstep in place bolted to the coal bin wall. I will need to make the press on hub caps as well. For scale reference the axle hole is 1/8".


Here is a close up of the bracket that still needs a little fine tuning and trimming the strap above the bolt.


Next I think I will put on my wheelwright hat and build the wheels now that I have the hubs done and get this assembly up on wheels.

Ken 1gramps1

Don Garrett
05-30-13, 08:05 AM
Oh boy....that's what I've been waiting for, builds like this really come together once they are up and rolling. 1thumbup1

05-31-13, 06:08 PM
Here you go Don up on wheels for the first time. The left rear is painted with white primer and the spokes glued in place. The other three wheels are just press fit together and have enough strength to support this heavy beast.

Just different views.





And the frame is parallel to the ground. 1yeah1

Ken 1gramps1

06-01-13, 03:36 AM
And the frame is parallel to the ground. 1yeah1

did you expect something else?
So for me a perfect end result of your architecture from beginning to realize.

06-01-13, 03:40 AM
A beautiful piece of our history, well done.

06-01-13, 06:43 AM
Thanks for your kind words! Marek it is always the accumulation of errors when scratch building that sometimes comes back to haunt you. I believe that using the CAD drawing program and always back and forth checking of dimensions really enabled this to be correct. Now I just have to get good at using the program.

At 6:15 Eastern Standard time I became a grandpa again. We have a new granddaughter 7.4 lbs and both mom and baby are doing great; her due date was June 7 so this was a very exciting surprise to learn this morning.

Cigars or whatever all around. gringrin


06-01-13, 09:15 AM
Congratulations on the new grand daughter Ken...and the build on its wheels is phenomenal 1thumbup1

06-01-13, 09:49 AM

06-01-13, 01:26 PM
Congratulations Ken! That's just great. 1clap1
Oh, and the build is awesome too! 1clap1

06-01-13, 01:52 PM
Danbury Mint would be so proud to have this in their collection!Great work!

Dr Dave
06-03-13, 01:09 AM
Congratulations Ken1clap1. Best wishes to the whole family.1yeah1

Is this build done now or is there more to do yet? (I hope so) I don't want it to go away!1no1

06-03-13, 07:30 AM
David, You will not be disappointed there is still plenty of parts to do before this build is done. Right now I have my wheelwright hat on and may post a wheel build sequence tomorrow, doing all four wheels in various stages and steps.

Stay tuned!

Ken 1gramps1

06-03-13, 11:34 AM
Same bat time, same bat channel! he1he

06-04-13, 06:53 AM
Following is the build sequence for the wheels which requires a degree of patience with all the repeat operations and fussing and fitting.

First the laser cut spokes were marked with a reference pencil line to keep track of which is the top surface once cut out. These spokes are 1/4" basswood.


Once all the spokes were removed and the excess char from the laser cutting removed by scraping with the back edge of an Xacto blade they were press fit into the aluminum hub to seat against the center of the hub with the reference pencil line facing up. The rim which is 1/4" plywood was laid upon the wheel drawing and spoke locations marked on the rim. Then the spokes were located aligning with the marks and pressed into the rim with the opposing angles formed by the laser cut matching. The front side was then used to adjust the spoke locations and press fitted against the steel block for alignment with the rim surface.


Once all the adjusting was completed the spokes were super glued in place at the rim and hub. The wheel was then primed with white sandable primer to be used as reference while carving the spokes. Below is the start of the carving process. A circle guide was used to mark the shoulder transition. Then with a sharp Xacto blade each spoke was very carefully carved using a slicing action to remove a tapered angle from the shoulder to the rim, once both sides were carved they were then filed with a half round file for a smooth finish. Also prior to carving putty was used to fill the gaps between the spokes at the hub.


Once both sides were carved and filed smooth the wheel was again primed any imperfections seen fixed with either sanding or putty. The hub was masked off on both sides to avoid paint build up. This shows primed ready for the next step. As primer was drying on one another wheel was going through the above steps.


Next came the carving of the scallop cuts between the spokes on both side. I was told that this was done to reduce the build up of mud on a flat surface of the rim and flinging it up on the wagon and people. Maybe someone out there can verify this? This is where the sharp blade is needed and great lighting to see the cut.


The cuts were then blended round with the needle file and fine sanding. Look close and you can see the thickness of the primer in the blending. Slow going, patience and a favorite beverage is all that is needed.


After satisfied with the blends joint cuts to the rim applied using an Xacto blade and carefully scoring around both sides.


Once all the joints were scored a prime coat and sanding and primed again ready for paint.

Here is the first painted red wheel. Once all the wheels are done the rim rivets will be added that hold the steel wheel in place on the outer rim surface. The rivets will go between the two spokes between the joint lines. Once all the rivets are located, all imperfections fixed a final paint coat will be applied.


Just time a patience to do them all.

Ken 1gramps1

06-04-13, 11:38 AM
Looks as good as your stuff always does Ken. This will surely be a beautiful kit!

06-06-13, 06:52 AM
Here are the two finished up to this point rear wheels with the simulated tire rivets added. Further along in the build the tires will be added using gray gasket material as was done in the Buckboard build.


Here is a higher view showing a better view of the coal bin and rear step just set in place. Two round bins still need to be added in the corners next to the boiler.


Just imagine standing on the step hanging on for dear life at full gallop heading to a fire with black smoke belching just over your head. Today we worry whether the seat belt is fastened.

Still working on the front wheels just slow careful carving and finishing.

Ken 1gramps1

06-06-13, 07:20 AM
Here is a period (1889) picture of a self propelled Amoskeags steam pumper heading to a fire. At the time it was the largest self propelled road vehicle in the world.

But you can just imagine what it would have been like with a team of horses. Look at the rest of the crew following behind with the support equipment, probably a ladder wagon which will be the next model subject to be developed.

These guys earned their money.


In the same book I found a period photo of the Allerton. Note the front hose set up; the hose support structure is missing on the example at the Historical Society. Look closely and you can see slight differences for the one I am using as reference. These were personalized with accessories and decoration based upon the client's order.


Enough of the history lesson, back to the front wheels. gringrin

Ken 1gramps1

06-06-13, 05:22 PM
Love the history AND the model!

06-08-13, 06:27 AM
Here all the wheels are carved and painted, ready for tires and hub caps. I have to help my wife this weekend with her craft show, she had surgery yesterday to remove a cancer growth on her left arm. All went well and they think they got it all will know more in six weeks.
Here is an overall side view.


Here is a view with the front axle turned. Chains were used as limit stops so the wheels would not hit the frame and this limited the turning radius of the wagon. The chain was attached at the end of the axle and to the center bracket at the bottom of the boiler as mentioned earlier in this thread. I am waiting for the chain and tire material to arrive.


Ken 1gramps1

06-08-13, 01:31 PM
Nicely done Ken. Looking forward to the finished model.

06-10-13, 05:31 PM
Ken: Nice work. Have been following your building of this fire apparatus - I am a retired FD Division Chief and modeler. I have a question that I came across in your book. Yellow Ochre is mentioned (pages 46 & 47) to keep two pieces of brass from being soldered together. Is this an artist type of paint or something else? Thanks, Kurt

06-10-13, 07:46 PM
Thank you! Here is a link to get some, a 1/2 lb can could last you a lifetime or two.

Yellow Ochre Powder 1/2 lb Can | OttoFrei.com

This is extremely handy when working with small parts or on surfaces that you do not want to solder together accidentally. I also use it on bolt threads to keep the solder flowing on them by accident.

Ken 1gramps1

06-13-13, 06:56 AM
I finished up making all the hub caps for the wheels that press fit onto the wheel hubs. I then started on the driver's seat which has to have a minimum of .040" wall thickness for casting purposes. I started by printing a sketch with dimensions from CorelCAD so I would have the numbers readily at hand.
First I cut two seat bottom shapes using 1/32" sheet and on one drilled 1/32" holes at all the mounting locations and then soldered the two together at the edges. Here you can see the hole locations.


Next I cut the seat wall shape using my other CAD system (Cardstock Aided Design) and annealed it before forming it by hand around a round bar of aluminum. Once formed it was soldered to the seat shape. The CAD step was repeated to get the second seat wall shape, annealed and formed.


Here you can see the second wall formed and ready to be soldered in place which will provide the wall thickness needed for casting. I use two thinner sheets because it is easier to cut and form and then edge solder. Patience is needed to carefully form to get a tight press fit with both walls.


Next the seat walls will be soldered together and a rolled edge added along the top edge of the seat using brass 1/16" rod.

Ken 1gramps1

06-13-13, 07:49 AM
Hello Ken,

very nice as always.
With what program you create your drawings.

06-13-13, 08:27 AM
Marek, I am using Corel CAD which Model Expo provided me with. I just have had to teach myself to use it and I am still in the process of learning. I just wish I had learned it years ago; however I am sure some evil SOB developed CAD programs for people that cannot draw as opposed to those who can. 1confused1

Ken 1gramps1

06-13-13, 10:46 PM
Yep, I learned with vellum and lead, then I had to learn CAD. I'm glad I got into it younger because it was a lot to learn for a young and agile brain. The seat looks by the way.

06-14-13, 12:41 PM
Just as it takes years of practice and work to become proficcient at drawing by hand, it takes a lot of practice with CAD before you can approach the same speed as hand drawings. In some ways it can be faster(making changes), but for the most part, it will always be a little slower than doing it by hand. Until they can hook the software directly to your brain!1what1

06-14-13, 05:22 PM
Steve, you are right just like everything else it takes practice to get good at it unless of course your learning curve is a circle. he1he

Ken 1gramps1

06-16-13, 08:04 AM
Happy Father's Day to all the dads out there!

I soldered the seat halves together and added the round bar to the top edge to simulate the roll over of the edge. I then started on the support legs of the seat. You can see that I used the drawing as a guide to pin and solder the support parts together after fish-mouthing all the joints for a tight fit. These are in progress build pictures.


Here is the bottom view of the support brackets indexed and CA'd in place for the rest of the build process. The ends of the support brackets were hammered and formed for the split end detail. Holes were then drilled for the footrest rivets.


Here is the seat assembly temporarily set in place. Here you can see the pins holding the foot rest in place that will be replaced with rivets. These held the geometry of the brackets in place while the heel brace was soldered in place. The scale is just holding the seat in place level with the ground.


Here is another view of the seat in place and here you can see the small expansion tank in place under the seat.


Next I will finish the foot rest by scalloping the top edge and taper the edge for a thinner appearance. The third seat brace attachment is to the large tube support for the large expansion tank which will be the next major step that will be a bit of a challenge to form.

Ken 1gramps1

06-16-13, 11:02 AM
Looks awesome Ken! I wouldn't mind being the one in the driver's seat but no thanks to the idea of hold on to the rear end!

06-16-13, 05:48 PM
Funny Questions Ken.
How high would the driver fly if the copperdome vent off at full steam, he1he on the worlds first ejection seat.

06-17-13, 06:14 AM
Egon, The expansion tanks were needed to smooth (equalize) the flow of water and eliminate a pulse in the flow of the water. The small one was for the intake of the water and the second larger one was for the hoses. The same kind action when you do not open the air vent on a gas container. They were more about volume than pressure.

Here is how I added the rivets to the footrests by drilling holes, inserting the rivets and then soldering a section of 1/32" tube which was then filed down to simulate the "bucked" side of the rivet. In the lower right you can see the rivet head and bucked side completed on the heel stop. Here you can also see how I filed the edges to appear thinner at the visual edge.


Here is the cleaned up foot rest assembly.


Here is a view of the seat in place for now using the scale to prop in place until I make the third mounting point which is attached to the large expansion tank support. It will index on the horizontal round just behind the seat and may turn out to be the most difficult part to make yet.


06-18-13, 06:31 AM
Here are the machined and cut parts to start the large expansion tank mount. First I had to turn down a bar to 5/8" diameter then drill one end to receive the indexing round on the top of the pump box. Then cut it at 45 degree angle, then a second part was cut at a 45 degree angle 5/16" wide for the transition section. The third part was cut on the lathe with the 45 degree end and an indexing rod was turned down to receive the large expansion tank.


I then pinned the parts together using a box lid with T-pins and adjusted the T-pins to allow room for the solder iron tip to fit between. This shows the nice tight fit that is needed for a good strong joint.


Here is the solder joint completed. With very thick parts like these I use a combination of the Staybrite solder and the 50/50 and the lower temperature of the 50/50 aids in the flowing of the Staybrite since you cannot get all around the part. Also the parts once soldered must rest in place until cooled down; large parts become heat sinks and hold the heat much longer than a smaller mass of parts would and keep the solder liquid much longer than normal.


Here the assembly is sitting in place with the large expansion tank. The bend was needed to allow room for the driver I suspect. The tank is cast metal painted for now with a white sandable primer and smoothed out. Eventually after all the fussing it will be painted with the Krylon Copper Foil to simulate the polished copper finish like the small tank.


Now for the hand filing to achieve the final shape of the mount; some things just have to be done by hand.

Ken 1gramps1

06-18-13, 08:37 AM
Hi Ken,
I'm still following along even though I'm not commenting much. Outstanding work as usual. So this is going to be the prototype for them to create a kit? Will the whole thing be disassembled to copy the parts?

06-18-13, 09:58 AM

Yes that is the plan. I temporaily glue or press fit parts to build all the individual parts of the model and once completed it will be completely disassembled and all the parts sent off to be cast in white metal of various alloys. Then I will get two complete sets of parts to build the final model with production parts to verify everything and also these parts will be then painted accordingly; at the same time I will write the assembly instructions and fine tune the plans and materials list for the production kit.

06-18-13, 05:53 PM
Could the bends on the last piece be done in a mill somehow ? George the master could maby have an idea.

06-18-13, 08:21 PM
Egon, perhaps but keep in mind the assembly is 1" wide by 1" high holding firm could be a bit of a challenge. I will just saw two 45 degree angles and hand file round probably less than an hour to do the whole thing. The original was a brass casting.

06-18-13, 10:09 PM
Actually that's how I make some of my bends. I actually have a small fixture to jig them up usually for silver soldering. With mine they are open in the center so one has to be careful when filing the radius not to break through into the passageway.

06-19-13, 02:44 AM
Hello Ken,

What I'm reading! It should create a kit?
I'm blown away, this is great news.
I am thrilled and will now pursue the development still interested.

I may have forgotten it or it was still not at all required. However, I find no indication.
How big is the part? What scale are you building?


06-19-13, 06:32 AM
Marek, Yes this will be a kit to be offered for sale by Model Expo Inc. Now you will have to put it on your wish list.

George, glad to hear that you also build the same way, sometimes you just have to do it by hand.

Here I have started by sawing and filing off some of the excess brass and then flood soldered the inside to form the radii and fill out the shape. The trick here is to work one side with a real hot iron and then let cool so as not to undo the angled joints. Here again I am using 50/50 solder due to its lower melting point.


This shows the mount in place and I still will need to do a little fine tuning with files on the front radius; just a little time and patience to get the correct feel.


Next I will need to make the third seat brace that attaches from the underside rear of the seat to the base of this mount.

06-19-13, 06:39 AM
Marek, here is a link to Model Expo's line of wagon models you may wish to visit.

Model Expo:Hobby Model Kits & Supplies | Model Expo - (http://www.modelexpo-online.com/page.asp?lp=1005)The Allerton is 12th scale like the rest of the wagon models they offer. right now the overall length of the model is 14 inches long and 5" wide.

06-21-13, 05:50 PM
The chain I needed arrived today so I added it to the front axle and center brace at the bottom center of the boiler. his chain is what limited the travel of the axle and prevented the front wheels hitting the bracing and frame.

Here is a view with the wheel removed to be able to see the attachment better.


This shows the wheels in place and the front axle turned to the limit.


Here is the normal side view showing the chains in their neutral positions just hanging down.


Here I have also painted the large expansion tank; it still needs to be wet sanded for a smoother finish. I will post a seat update tomorrow.

I have a tree down I have to clean up tonight.

06-21-13, 08:25 PM
Im still in awe every time I visit this thread..Outstanding Ken..Outstanding...

06-22-13, 07:35 AM
Michael, Thanks!
It seems every year that chainsaw of mine keeps getting heavier and heavier.

Here is a closeup of the seat with the third support member. The attachment point on the underside of the seat is a drilled hole; while the other end of the bracket is bolted to a block cast into the expansion tank mount. First I cut an shaped the block with the curved surface to mate to the mount. It was drilled for the bracket diameter on the top surface and then the front was drilled for a 1/32" locating pin to keep the bracket in position while being soldered to the mount. Once soldered to the mount the bracket arm was soldered into the hole, the bolt head drilled and tapped and the final shape around the bolt head milled. This third bracket holds the seat level to the ground; it was turned to index into the seat hole then annealed for the bending to shape. Keeping the proper position and bending required a bit of fussing.

Also this shows the final shaping of the tank mount that was carefully filed by hand prior to adding the seat support block.

This also shows the first coat finish of the Krylon Copper Foil paint which is doing a great job of replicating the polished copper look of the original tank. This will be wet sanded and repainted once much closer to finishing the model.


Here is an overall view.


Next I will move onto the braking system, which I think may have been more for parking than actual stopping.

Ken 1gramps1

For some reason my signature sometimes works and other times does not. Anyone have advice to fix?

06-22-13, 10:39 AM
Hi Ken, To back track a bit I've been thinking about the wheels. I'm the guy for whom the expression "wood butcher" was coined. This could be the tree's revenge for my years of chain sawing, but at any rate I think I'd quickly reduce the spokes and fellies to tinder with any sort of blade. Would it be possible to include a shaper/scraper tool in the kit? This could be as simple as a steel disk sized to fit the hand, with shaped notches to scrape wood down to contour for the parts. The tool would probably have to be too thick to photoetch but given the limited run of wheel parts, would not need to be any sort of fancy steel. Great model - I'm really enjoying seeing it develop.

06-23-13, 12:11 AM

06-25-13, 09:20 AM

I wish it were that simple. All the shaping is transitional tapers and the spokes are much easier to carve once assembled than as separate pieces. The best is to use a brand new Xacto blade very carefully like a super mini spokeshave tool and cut with a slicing motion rather than a straight draw and let the blade do the cutting. Also be sensitive to the grain Basswood is easy to carve but still has a grain.

The coordination between hand and eye is where the skill factor kicks in. The only other suggestion that might work is a course half round tapered needle file. Still use the primer to read the shaping as you develop it. This would be much slower process than the sharp knife blade.

Ken 1gramps1

06-25-13, 08:36 PM
Started on the braking system by first fabricating the foot pedal which was sawed out from a piece of .062" thick stock and the the foot rest was cut, annealed and formed then drilled the end of the pedal shaft and foot rest for a .032" pin to locate while soldering.

The other end was drilled .125" to receive the cross bar. Two simulated hex nuts were turned for each end of the cross bar. I then fabricated two short lever arms that slip on the cross bar and will be the attachment points for the linkage arms to the rear.

This shows the overall brake pedal in place on the cross bar.


Here is a close up of the simulated retaining nut on the end of the cross bar.


Here is more of a side view with the front axle turned, here you can see the short lever arm that the rear linkage will attach to on each end of the cross bar. Depress the pedal the lever arm pulls the linkage forward pivoting the brake shoe onto each rear wheel.


Ken 1gramps1

06-25-13, 08:45 PM
I can stare at this build for hours..Wow...1thumbup1

06-27-13, 09:38 PM
and hours...

06-29-13, 01:00 PM
I am doing a review of your book for the Nautical Research Guild Journal and the publisher has not answered my inquiries. Would you pleae reply directly to me so I can ask you about the issue? Great book - it will be highly recommended.


06-30-13, 12:34 PM

I am on vacation in California, I am checking my emails remotely; please send inquiries/questions to xken@sssnet.com and I can reply to you then. Sorry to hear that they are not replying; I will check with them when I am back home.

Thanks and have a great day!

Ken 1gramps1

07-03-13, 11:34 AM
Vacation??? in the middle of a project??? Talk about leaving us hanging! he1hehe1hehe1he

Have fun man, don't get fresh with Minnie!

07-11-13, 05:00 PM
David, I am back and trying to get things back under control. On the local news it said it has rained here for the past 16 consecutive days which has not happened in 85 years. I may have to rent a combine to do the yard. Had a great time with my granddaughters and saw a great deal of Minnie and her friends. Had I known grand kids were so much fun I would have had them first. gringrin

Will start on the Allerton tomorrow and get back on the brake system.

Ken 1gramps1

07-17-13, 06:53 AM
Here is an "in progress" update of the braking system. Just fabrication and soldering of small parts. I have been moving back and forth between building and CAD drawing updates.

Here is the brake pedal press fitted into the pivot points at the bottom of the pump box. The short lever is where the linkage to the rear attaches on both sides of the pump box.


Here is a close up of the pedal pivot point with the simulated retaining nut.


Here are the parts in progress for the linkage. The rods are 1/16" diameter for reference. The end of the long rod is threaded with 00-80 threads for brake adjustment. The tapered rod will be cut and soldered to the flat U shape which transitions from a flat bar with the center round attachment to a round end with a u joint connection to the short lever. Also can be seen is the second simulated retaining nut for the left side of the pivot shaft.


Here is the connecting yoke that will pull the levers to activate the brakes on the rear wheels. This yoke consists of 8 parts and some tricky soldering; this is where mechanical interlocks really help. The linkage will be connected with 00-80 bolts as shown on the center connection.


Now for the front U joints that will go on the ends of the tapered rods which will be hand filed from round to flat to mate with the flat bar.

Ken 1gramps1

07-17-13, 11:37 AM
Welcome back to the bench Ken. Very impressive work there but di you have to go from vacation to something so intricate? You're showing us simpletons up! he1he

07-17-13, 01:50 PM

yay, the vacation's over and finally there is new again from Ken ...
Do let us wait too long ....
No, No, kidding aside, hope you could recuperate and now have power again for the hobby.

07-18-13, 12:42 PM
Welcome back Ken. Fabulous work - it's an inspiration to make me try to better my own work.
BTW, your book is great and I picked up some tips that I have never seen elsewhere - each tip alone is more than worth the price of the book.

07-21-13, 07:21 AM
Here is a build sequence for the brake linkage I have completed so far. It might interest cars builders as a technique to build various kinds of linkage.

Here is a breakdown showing the various parts. The 1/4" square block was milled and drilled. The key to working small parts is to have mechanical interlocks like a rod end inserted into a hole. All these parts are to be used as masters in vulcanized molds; so they have to be stronger than just for modelling purposes.

Here is a closeup showing the joint and note the 3/64" rod turned down on the end of the tapered rod inserted into the hole drilled in the 1/16" thick bracket. The bolt is 0-80 x 1/4" for size reference.


This shows them assembled, the lower right is the foot pedal.


This shows the family of parts laid out in various stages. The flat connecting bar has had the two short ends drilled and the tapered rod will be turned down at length to insert into the hole. Note the left end of the tapered rod has enough length to be gripped in the lathe for the finished turning and cut off.


This shows the soldered joint of the tapered arms to the bar and using a 1/16" rod to maintain alignment during the soldering. I have also scribed the center line for the saw cut.


This shows how I hand filed the tapered round arms to the final flatten shape that transitions form the flat bar to the round end. While filing I left the 1/16" rod in place for extra strength while filing and sawing apart. You can see the partial saw cut.


Here is how I used aluminum pieces as shims to elevate the flat bar to be on center of the short tube. I then used the weight of two files (flat and half round) to hold the bar in place while soldering and the files also were heat sinks to reduce the heat flow up the arms. I used Staybrite solder and a very hot iron quickly.


Here are the finished parts that I have completed so far. Note that the tube with the threaded rod is how the brakes were adjusted.
Next I will make the lever arms that connect and pivot on the U shaped link and the levers are supported by three arm structure with a pivot point stand off attached to the boiler on the center line of the wheel that have the brake shoes on the ends.


If anyone has any questions; just ask I did not want to bore you with too many details.

Ken 1gramps1

07-25-13, 07:19 AM
Here is the vertical support arm for the brake lever pivot points (2) one for each rear wheel. First the shapes were turned on the lathe; then annealed and the flange end hammered flat and drilled with a #55 bit for a clearance hole for a 00-90 bolt that attaches the arm to the side of the boiler. The shaft end that receives the lever and horizontal braces was threaded with 1-72 threads. Then the arm was bent to the shape needed.


Here the arm is bolted to the side of the boiler.


Here are the horizontal brace arms again turned to the needed shape. The one end will be flattened with a drift punch to form a flange. The rounds with the 3/64" drilled holes in the sides are the support that the two horizontal arms will be soldered into.


Here the arms have been annealed and one has been hammered and filed flat. Kind of a before and after. Also notice the color change from the annealing, this cleans up with Scotchbrite.


Here the flange drilled and then filed round on the end and set into the hole in the pivot; once the second horizontal arm is made both will be soldered in place.


Now to keep on going making more bracing arms.

Ken 1gramps1

07-25-13, 10:20 AM
Ken, The mold maker is really going to love you. I made the molds and cast O scale Holt tricycle tractor kits for Bill Roy many years ago. If I remember it had near 800 individual parts. I sweated blood during the whole project. Your steam pumper is going to be one detailed kit.

07-25-13, 12:27 PM
William, when I started this project the intent was to have a Pocher Level quality or better kit of this steam pumper. I have the mold maker on board and check with him on anything questionable. I also ask for his advice on combining parts to reduce the number of individual parts without comprimising quality of build or to make assembly easier. On the buckboard parts he was able to do the carriage bolts to where I could thread on a 00-90 nut.

He uses vulcanized rubber molds so the master pattens need to be unfinished brass or aluminum; no paint or plating.

This is just one of those fun projects to do from my point of view. At some point when I have nothing else to do I would still like to kit the Model T.

Ken 1gramps1

07-25-13, 05:04 PM
Yes I think mold making in itself is an art. I too used rubber mold material, tried silicone rubber, got good detail but the material was just too fragile for so many small parts. I am sure there are better rubber mold material today than 20 years ago. You are doing a fantastic job and I was getting withdrawals while you were on vacation. Good to see you back.

Bill 1thumbup1

07-26-13, 01:56 PM
Great work.
It will be interesting to see the cast parts when the kit is produced. Seeing the masters has me anticipating a great kit. Production castings often leave a lot to be desired but seeing some recent castings done by several casters has me very hopeful. It seems they are discovering that producing quality castings pays better than producing the usual "acceptable" quality. They won't have any excuses for putting out good castings when they have your masters to work from.

07-26-13, 03:09 PM
Kurt, The castings I get for the "proof of production" build are absolutely great castings to the point that 00-90 threads are good enough to thread a bolt onto.

Ken 1gramps1

07-28-13, 08:37 AM
Continuing on the brake linkage I am over the hump and have the hard part done. Again making parts two by two. Here are images of the support arm structure for the pivot point of the brake levers. Here the one half of the brake lever is done the end with the brake shoe attached. Keep in mind that the tire is not on the wheel yet hence the gap. I will admit this was a challenge to do getting both left and right done at the same time and being identical left to right. I am really loving the Sherline lathe;the tapered lever arms are less than 1 inch long. The brake shoe end of the lever is threaded 1-72.


Here is another view. More looking down on it. In the top picture you can see the indexing hole on the right side for the center portion of the brake lever that the end of will be attached to the rest of the linkage.


Now to the center brake lever arms.

Ken 1gramps1

07-29-13, 04:29 PM
To make the center brake lever arms I turned the stud on the end to index into the pivot and cut the 1/8" rod to length and annealed to soften for hammer forming. I then taped the rod with a reference mark to the steel block and hammered to a flat taper.


Next I filed flat both hammered surfaces and then file the sides to 1/8" the diameter of the rod and marked the pivot hole location.


Once both were filed to shape I then annealed both to soften again since they were work hardened by hammering and then formed the curve needed. Once bent I then drilled the holes, since the holes would have created a weak point when forming.


Then I soldered both lever arms to the pivot and filed both to their final shape as needed. I added the 3/16" spacer to cover the threads and be a shoulder for the brake shoes. The threads were my way of aligning the shoes with the wheels to determine the final position. Here are the linkage parts ready to assemble to the pumper.


Here they are assembled in place. Note the tire material has not yet been added to the wheels.


Here is an overall picture with the brake linkage in place and showing where I am to date on this project.


Now to think about my next step.

Ken 1gramps1

07-29-13, 06:46 PM
Outstanding I say....1thumbup1

07-29-13, 08:54 PM

07-30-13, 04:01 PM
Thanks guys! Today I spent a couple of hours photographing and measuring some more small details and came across these two pictures and just had to share them.

Here is a period picture of the pumper with horses and men to give scale; note the three standing on the coal platform at the rear. All looking very dapper I might add. I also took pictures of the horse hitch which attaches at the front with bolts. It was disassembled to save length in the fire house I was told.


I also found this advertisement; the company eventually became the Akron Brass Company still headquartered in Wooster today. Just imagine standing on the sidewalk with this team and rig going by at full gallop. This does show a three horse set up and not the Allerton in tow.


I am starting the hose support brackets that will attach to the front pump box sides and at the rear on the boiler sides which can be seen in the above photo.

Ken 1gramps1

08-01-13, 11:36 AM
Next I decided to do the hose support brackets for the four hoses needed. Two from water source and two for the hoses themselves. This is where the jeweler's saw comes in real handy. First I cut the main bracket arm using a CAD pattern glued to a piece of brass 1/16" thick stock and filed the edges. Here you can see the cut and a little cleaning up needed at the top where a hole was drilled first.


Then the first piece was super glued to the stock and traced with a sharp scribe and then sawed out. I use a blue marker for contrast for the cut lines.


Here are the major parts for the front brackets; the rear will be much shorter. Here you can see the use of 1/32" indexing pins to locate the parts and keep them in place while soldering. The acorn nuts were turned from 3/64" hex bar. The rings were sawed once soldered in place to split for forming.


Here is the finished bracket. A second ring was cut, drilled and annealed and soldered to the inside surface of the first and then the two sides sawed to length. The outboard flat had a locating pin added for the leather strap that held the hoses in place on the support brackets.


Here is the first bracket in place on the pumper. Also you can see the brake pedal return spring has been added between the seat and the pedal.


Now to finish up the other three brackets.

08-02-13, 11:00 AM
A very rare occasion indeed! I am speechless Ken. Absolutely beautiful!

08-05-13, 12:35 PM
Great work. I love the scroll work brackets. Have you figured out what you are going to use for the hard suction hose or the discharge hoses yet?

08-05-13, 04:30 PM
David, Kurt thank you for your kind words! Kurt here is the finished rear hose bracket for the left side and the right is done as well. The original hoses were a white canvas like covered hose as seen in the period picture above. I will need to figure out yet how to make them and I have a picture of the hose cart from the museum that I will post later.

Here is the rear left hose support bracket that had a leather strap to retain the hoses during the travel to a fire.



08-05-13, 04:49 PM
Here is a picture of the hose cart. Looking at the center just above the axle you can see one end is screwed into the other end.



08-06-13, 12:16 PM
Are you going to build the hose cart also?

08-06-13, 01:08 PM
The hoses shown in the lower of the two period photos are "Hard Suction Hoses" that are hard enough to resist the vacuum created when drafting water from a pond or the very low pressure(if any) of the period water mains. They were connected to the input side of the pump and the free end was dropped into the water and acted like a drinking straw to get water to the pump. I have thought about how to simulate this before and didn't come up with a good answer. The droop is the hard part to model.

The supply hoses can sometimes be replicated with flat shoe laces fit over the end fittings but the supply hard suction hoses seem to be a problem with the modern fire apparatus builders too - but they were carried in trough like brackets on the motorized apparatus so there was no sag so only the outside appearance needed to be modeled.

08-07-13, 06:45 AM
David, eventually yes, the plan for now will be to do the ladder wagon next and then the hose cart.

Kurt, I like your thoughts on the hose and I am still sorting out how to fabricate them. I like the shoe lace concept; the other thought I had was fabric wire looming as used on antique cars for the wiring harness. I probably will do some solution involving fine woven canvas or white shirt material. I used this technique to make wing rib stabilizers on my WWI planes.

It is one thing to do them as one off and another for production kits. I plan to follow the top picture since Wooster had fire hydrants then. The hard suction hose also in the the book I have shows a cylindrical metal perforated filter to keep debris and fish out of the system as well. To make those I thought of using electrical shrink tube over brass tubing and scuff up while in a lathe for the surface pattern.

Ken 1gramps1

08-07-13, 10:33 AM
Hi Ken,
When I rewired my Velocette I used woven polyester shrink tubing for the wiring runs to get the appearance of cloth tubing. The stuff is easy to work with, comes in a few sizes, and looking at the bike could just about pass as scale canvas hose. I bought it from CableOrganizer.com . Cheers.

08-07-13, 10:35 AM
I think the heat shrink is a good idea. Yes, the one off is one thing but production pieces are another thing alltogether. Both the hoses and the hard suction hoses will be a challenge for production copies.

08-09-13, 05:11 PM
Spent the last couple of days making aluminum chips starting with a 3.5" diameter billet to make the boiler cap. Here is a cutting sequence starting on the 10" Atlas lathe because 3.5 was greater than the capacity of the Sherline lathe. But once rough cut it was finished up on the Sherline.

Here is the first rough cut sneaking up on the final shape. The front flat ring is to grip when cutting out the core.


Here is the final shaping done ready for parting off.


Here is the parting off going easy and slow with cutting fluid so the tool does not bite. The step down shoulder is to index into the lower brass ring.


Here I have moved to the Sherline to core out the part to save weight when cast. Here I cut the shoulder to have a gripping surface to cut off the other end when needed.


Here I have cut the core material out tangent to the shoulder.

Here is a close up of the finished boiler cap sitting in place.


Here is an overall view with it starting to finally look like a pumper.


Now back to smaller parts for awhile.

Ken 1gramps1

08-14-13, 10:22 AM
Here is the in progress start of the Light that will be attached to the top of the large expansion tank. I started by turning down a brass bar and then milling the center section square. Once square I then cross drilled holes for the window openings which eventually have lenses in them.


I then set up in the lathe and am now in the process of cutting the chimney section of the gas lamp above the window. Just slow careful going at this small scale. The 1/32" cutting bit can be seen in the lower right fore ground. I will sneak up on the final finish slowly and eventually rings will be cut and soldered around the lense openings with the existing surfaces being the retaining shoulders for the lenses. At least that is the plan for now.


Back to the lathe.

Ken 1gramps1

08-14-13, 08:40 PM
Ken, do you have any hair left? This is just simply beautiful! 1nworthy11nworthy11nworthy1

08-15-13, 10:08 AM
David, Thank you and yes the hair is getting thinner.

Here I am getting close to the final turning shape. This is when it gets nerve wracking because one oops and the part is scrap. I am sneaking up on the rounding of the square shoulders for the bezel rings to meet on tangent.


Here the part has been cut off and two of the bezel rings have been soldered in place with the additional twp on either side. Here you can see how the shoulder for the lenses will work with the bezel in place. This also is when the soldering gets tricky and the use of alligator clips is needed to keep the soldered rings in place.


Here the light is now in place sitting on top of the large expansion tank. Next I will need to drill the flat bottom to the center to insert the wick holder and wick.


Here is another view showing it in place with the rest of the front end.


Next to add the wick holder and find some acrylic rod to make the beveled lenses.

Ken 1gramps1

08-15-13, 10:29 AM
Fantastic stuff Ken! It is a shame that you do not get to keep the prototype but only a reproduction of it. This in itself is stunning, I can't wait to see the ladder cart and hose cart all together with it to complete the set.

BTW... the other project that I was asking about in my PM to you, just to give a reference to size it is 10.5 inches wide and 29.625 inches long. It's gonna be a kick in the brass!

08-15-13, 11:25 AM
Beautiful work, Ken. I've sourced clear colored tough, machineable plastic (not sure what kind) from old toothbrush handles. Size is limited, but they're free.

08-15-13, 11:56 AM
David, sounds great and for sure you will need a big iron for that work.

Buck Thanks! Yes I have heard of that as well; but the lense diameter is 1/2" and 1/16' thick with a 45 degree bevel.

I have turned acrylic for this purpose in the past. There will be a second lantern that mounts to the boiler on the left side that I will need to turn as well. It is to provide light for night operations to operate the valves and see the gauges.

Ken 1gramps1

08-15-13, 06:32 PM
Here are the lenses completed. I went to the local glass shop and they had a 3/4" diameter rod about 5" long in the chops bin and when I explained and showed them the brass light which I had brought for sizing they just gave me the piece at no charge.

First I turned the rod down to 1/2" diameter then cut the 45 degree bevel and buffed while in the lather with polishing compound. Then cut off at 3/32" thick, sanded the cut off surface and carpet tapped the lense back onto the rod and polished the cut off side.

I need to find some finer wet paper all I have is 400 grit so they are not as smooth as I would like yet.

Here they are set in place and you can see the effect of the bevel.


Next will be the wick holder.


08-16-13, 02:26 PM
I have added the wick holder and wick. I drilled up from the flat base to the center a 3/16" hole then turned the wick holder to press fit into the hole. The wick was made by flattening the end of a 1/16" rod using a drift punch and then soldering the cut off rod that was inserted into a 1/16" hole drilled in the end of the holder and filed to final shape.


Ken 1gramps1

08-20-13, 03:28 PM
Here is the start of the two carbide torches that mount on the sides of the boiler and are used to light the mechanical area at night while in their holders or could be removed from the holders and used to check valve settings and gauges much like we use a flashlight today. My understanding is that the Brits still call flashlights torches.

Here is the first of the two bodies turned, cored and milled ready to part off the bar stock. The 1/16" holes top and bottom are for interlock pins to locate the handle and chimney parts while soldering. Lenses will go in the front and two sides with the back being the reflector and keeping the light out of the holders eyes.


Here is the first turning for the chimney. The 1/16" hole is for the locating pin in lense body.


Here is the chimney and handle press fit in place and I completed the first holding bracket which will be attached to the boiler side. The torch can be turned in place in the holder to adjust the light as needed. The handle area also served as the reservoir for the fuel. Here you can see the torch resemblance.


Here it is in the holder. It has enough clearance from the boiler wall to be turned 360 degrees for light at night.


Here are all three torches and I still need to make the second holder to be mounted to the boiler.


Next to finish up the holder and then solder all the parts together.

Ken 1gramps1

08-21-13, 11:23 AM
Here are the finished torches added to the pumper. This is a close up side view showing the wick in the torch. The wick was made using 1/16" rod hammered flat with a drift punch and filed to shape. It was cut just short of the lense opening and inserted in the lower hole down through and into the hole in the handle and then soldered in place.


Here is a stand off view with a little perspective showing the side and front lense areas. The front lense will be 3/8" diameter with beveled edges while the side will be curved rectangles with beveled edges. These will be removable from their holders in the final kit.


Here is an overall view showing the pumper and where I am at to date with many more small details yet to be added like gauges, valve handle/knobs, petcocks etc.


Ken 1gramps1

08-21-13, 02:54 PM
truely amazing work Ken in extreme aw of your skills!!!!1clap1

Gary K I miss my lathe!!!!!!!!

08-21-13, 03:25 PM
Ken,You are a brilliant jeweler !

08-22-13, 02:50 AM
Awesome and awesomely inspiring!

08-22-13, 05:10 PM
Thank you guys for your kind words. I have been called many things, but this is a first being a jeweler.

Here is the water gauge that indicates the water level in the boiler. First I raided a plastic kit for a clear plastic sprue for the gauge which I had to turn down on the lathe to 3/32" x 1-3/4" long. Then I started by turning the rod and tube holders, top and bottom then with a 1/8" hex rod turned the attachment mounts which have shut-off valves with turning handles. Also the bottom one also has a drain petcock.


Here the parts are dry fitted together before cutting off the main hex bar.


Here are the parts laid out prior to assembly. The top is on the left.


Here the gauge is press fit in place on the boiler.


Ken 1gramps1

08-24-13, 08:39 AM
While building the steam whistle I realized that there were a couple of tips I should share for those wishing to or are working with brass. One on soldering parts and the other on mini hand forging to make bent tapered parts which would have some automotive application. The scale can vary the principles are the same.

Here the support bracket parts were turned from one piece of 1/8" hex bar and then cut apart at the insertion pins in the center of the turning. The tip is to saw 90% through the parent rod (round or square in this case) to form a restriction for heat flow down the rod and to concentrate the heat at the joint area.


Here the joints are soldered and the part sawed from parent square rod.


Here is a sequence on mini forging. The pull cord arm is not only bent but also tapered from thick to thin down at the cord loop.

I will let the notes speak for themselves.





Here is the finished whistle assembly added to the boiler side.


Ken 1gramps1

08-24-13, 01:43 PM
Hello Ken,

hi, something different, not just cut out of sheet metal, ironwork now is done.
I'm speechless. you've done it again.

08-26-13, 01:28 PM
The sight glass is a work of art. Thanks for the lesson on forging with the steam whistle arm. Will print it out and file it in the back of your book.

08-27-13, 02:42 PM
Marek, Kurt thank you for your kind words. Here are images of the hose nozzles that also have a minor forging operation in making the handles.

First I turned the nozzles with the shafts having a 1 degree taper. The carry brackets were then turned and formed and soldered to the nozzles. The bolt heads are 00-90 size. The tapered portion of the nozzle will be wrapped in red thread later per the original that were wrapped in red cord, to act as a non slip surface when wet.


Here are the start of the nozzle holding handles which were turned down starting with 1/16" rod. Holes were drilled into the neck of the nozzle once the pieces were annealed, hammered and formed.


Here are the first set of handles ready to be soldered in place.


Here are the handles soldered in place using 50/50 solder which has a lower melting point than the Staybrite used for the rest of the joints in the area. Still care must be taken to assure proper flow and strong joint without loosing the other joints. These handle ends were inserted into drilled holes for a mechanical interlock before soldering.


Here they are in place on the pumper and next I will make the upper support brackets that indexed the top of the nozzles and held them in place.


Ken 1gramps1