View Full Version : Corvette GSR Build - humble beginnings

12-29-12, 10:32 PM
I'm not in the same league as the builds I see and my moniker JunkGTZ reflects my practice of using discarded materials for my mods to RC bodies. I do this because I build on a limited budget out of choice. I got into RC cars through a gift from my wife of a toy class Nikko Flashback - a decent 1/8 scale vehicle for just kicking around my driveway with my kids. However, I am not one to leave things alone and decided to convert the car to an onroad sports racer about the size of an HPI Super RS4 (280 mm wheelbase) just in time for them to discontinue it. I've posted some of the bodies I came up with, but my current project is this 1/8 Monogram Corvette body. With a 280 mm wheelbase my car works out to be a little smaller than 1/8 which means changing the body or the chassis to fit. Since my other bodies are 280, I decided to shorten the body and re-envision the Vette calling it the Corvette GSR for Gran Sport Revival. The first shot is the body I bought as it was sent to me. The second is the body as it was first cut to fit the wheelbase. The third and subsequent are where things are at now with a nose intake, fixed headlights, hood vents, enlarged rear window, docked tail and IMSA style rear wheel vents. At this point I am just mocking this up and fitting and filing and hope to putty up the seams and sand and primer soon. I'm still trying to decide whether to do side pipes, or side sills ala the C6R with a side exhaust. Since I build these bodies to run, it won't have the detail of a static model, and I try and keep the weight down and make it sturdy also. My inspirations are not only the Gran Sport, but the Pinninfarina Rondine Coupe, and the Guigiaro Moray.

04-13-13, 11:06 PM
Still sorting this project out. Haven't had a tremendous amount of time to work on it. I'm rethinking the fender flares and have fashioned a hood out of aluminum sheet with the center bulge of the original on top. Most of my attempts are not only to adapt it to the chassis, but to also get rid of some weight. I added some interior plates for mounting on the chassis and for starting to make a partial roll cage. I will have some time in the next month to work a few things out. My hope is to have all the mocking up of the various parts done and putty it, sand it and primer it by Memorial Day. I'll try and post progress pics with the next update.

05-21-13, 12:52 AM
I've not gotten to filling the seams where I cut the body, but have worked on taking some of the weight out such as making a hood out of aluminum flashing and then making what will eventually be a dash and a rear interior deck where the body mounting nubs go through. I also made the rocker panels with the side exhaust outlet to see how it looks. There is still much to be done and the fender flares are not yet sorted, but I am working on it. I cut the side vents behind the front wheels out and am working on some larger ones out of the aluminum. I also have to close up the gap in the vent panel below the windshield. In the meantime, I built a roll cage out of aluminum tubing which is glued together. It's very light and with a little filler in some of the joints and paint it should work out well. Here's some recent shots included.

07-12-13, 06:52 PM
Moving along slowly - I ordered some aluminum sheet and came up with a more satisfying treatment for the fender flares and worked on clearances. Right now they are held in with tape and I need to work on solutions as to both attaching them, and then melding them into the body. I also patched an did the first spray of primer, but have a long way to go with that too. I do want to have a nice finish on this vehicle, but there is so much other work to do that I won't be dealing with that for quite some time. The challenge here being both my inexperience, and the fact that I am improvising my way through this. I did some sketches when I first started but no blueprints. I am experimenting as I go along and have lots more ideas to implement, but the process is slow for each item. Here's a few shots of the progress.

08-28-13, 10:36 PM
Very cool Larry!

08-29-13, 12:19 AM
Thanks Doug. Slow going right now. My school year has started up so I have little time to work on it until my schedule eases up. I never envisioned it would go as slow as it has, but I'm new at doing this much fabricating and fitting. Some things take several attempts. I'm glad I'm not doing a scratch build, because then it would never get finished!

Measure twice, cut once......and have some extra materials just in case!

10-16-13, 10:35 PM
2468324684Here's a look at what I am envisioning for the vette. I've fitted an aluminum formed side vent but was originally going for the shark gill slits. I had made some out of poster board but there were a lot of pieces and given this will be a runner, I was concerned they might be too fragile, hence I am going with a simpler one piece. So that brings me to the wing. I am going towards a more modern GT look, an FIA GT3 type vibe. These are just mocked up out of poster board until I have some time to fabricate to real deal.

11-11-13, 08:45 PM
Did some work on the wing and rear spoiler. I decided to pull the wing in more or less even with the back of the car because this will be a runner in my driveway and I might back into a low lying shrub on a rare occassion. Having a wing that hangs out like the previous mock up would likely asking for trouble in that case. I think the wing over the rear spoiler works better in appearance as well. I made a previous wing out of aluminum sheet, but it was pretty stout and heavier than I expected so I made this one out of aluminum flashing and it weighs next to nothing and with the leading edge being folded as it is, it is still plenty strong. My list of to do's includes completing how I will fasten the flares to the body (they are only partially fastened). Then cleaning up the body over the firewall - most likely pulling it apart and doing it again and figuring out the windshield since I will not be using the original for weight savings. I also have to figure out how I will fasten the center bump of the hood to the aluminum. I am toying with trying to remake the hump in aluminum for weight savings, and for stiffness. The plastic one has some pieces grafted on to the end and is a little fragile. Here's a look at the tail as it is now.


11-12-13, 12:48 PM
Very cool Larry! I would remake the hood as 1-piece from aluminum. You could take a large sheet, form the hump into it, then cut the perimeter to size. And for attaching the fender flares to the plastic, you could possibly use some micro-screws to screw through the metal into the plastic, then cut off the end of the screw and smooth it out. That would probably be more secure than gluing them on. Of course, the sturdiest option would be to make a mold of your finished body and lay up a new one in fiberglass, but that would be a lot of work! Although, if you did it that way you could always mold more if the first one gets damaged! Of course, this is your build, so do whatever feels right for you. This thing looks really cool!1thumbup1

11-12-13, 11:18 PM
Thanks Steve. I wish I had the skills to make a fully formed body out of fibre glass. I have even thought about trying to render it in foam and do a vacuum formed version of it but that would take a large amount of time and with work and family I stay very busy. I am only able to do a little at a time, and figure this experience will help me along to larger undertakings in the future Lord willing.

I am curious as to how I would go about doing a one piece hood as you suggest. Would I make a wooden buck similar to the Lincoln project and hand hammer it into shape, then fill with some body filler and paint? I might be able to pull that off if I have a soft enough alloy. I tried to get some similar to what license plates are made from because I found it quite easy to bend and shape, but the alloy I purchased turned out to be a little harder - still workable, but not as soft. Maybe I can flatten a few license plates! Got a number of those lying around. A one piece hood would be ideal and the shaping of a buck is within my skills. What kind of hammer would I need to shape it? Would a leather mallet or something like a band instrument repair dent hammer be useful? If you have any experience with it, I'd love some pointers. Thanks again.

11-13-13, 12:55 PM
I think a wooden buck would work perfect to form the hood over. It's been a while since my metal-working days, but a small wooden or brass hammer should work. Remember to start with a piece much bigger than the final size of the hood to allow for trimming off any wrinkles, etc. Also the metal will tend to work-harden as you form it, so you may need to anneal it every so often so it doesn't crack. Worst case, you could still cut out the newly formed center bump and attach it to the hood you have now. I'm sure xken (View Profile: xken - ScaleMotorcars (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/members/xken.html)) could give you much better advice since he is a metal-working expert.

11-13-13, 09:57 PM
More questions. What does annealing involve? Heating the work? Should I start with a ready made flat piece from a supplier (which I have) or could I flatten one of my license plates (which are softer) and work that? What about the indentations for the radiator vents? Could I cut those with a chisel? Any answers would be greatly appreciated. I'll also messgae xken. thanks.

11-14-13, 01:15 AM
I think I answered some of my own questions by looking into some things on the web. I'll post more om what I found later, but it looks like if my buck is any good, and I do it right the aluminum will be easy to shape. May have to wait until winter break to try this though!

11-14-13, 12:48 PM
Here's a youtube link on how to anneal aluminum:


11-14-13, 07:13 PM
Thanks - I found that as well as some other info. I will give it a try!

06-05-14, 01:13 AM
You'd think I was scratch building this by how slow it has gone! Here's the latest installment. I can only work on this in short spans and those don't come frequently, but summer is here and I have a little more time. I had a number of things to figure out. First the hood - I was contemplating forming one with the scoop out of aluminum, but do not have time to make the buck (or enough suitable woodworking tools) to pull it off and then there is the trial and error (I make lots of those) issue once it came to forming the metal - lots of time and frustration. I decided to try something in line with my moniker of "JunkGTZ" and see what I had collected in the way of light weight polycarbonate plastic containers, etc. A couple DG window cleaner bottles donated the back of the handle to form a hood bulge/scoop and that brand in particular has a stouter bottle than some so it worked pretty well. I butted up the two halves, glued them together with quick epoxy and put some putty and sanded it. Then shaped it on my belt sander. In the process I opted out of the original plan to have the intake in front of the hood and patched the hole. I used corregated plastic sign material for an underside reinforcement of the hood bulge/scoop where I attached it to the hood. it is screwed in and can be removed for painting - the hood will be black and the hood scoop will match the rest of the body. Right now a French Racing Blue is what I am leaning towards for that.

Then there is the headlight gameplan. I tried mocking up some different options with paper and nothing satisfied me and then I was looking at the "brow" of a BMW 5 series while out and about town, and decided to take the existing headlight cover section and cut out a "brow" type opening and covered it with a clear plastic sheet. Lights will be added and the holes I cut need to be cleaned up a bit.

The next big challenges are attaching the fender flares securely and closing up the gaps between them and the plastic body. They will be a contrasting color - black, but I need to tidy up the openings and secure them first. Following that, I will deal with the rear window and front window, both of which will be light weight polycarbonate and I am trying to see if I can form them over a simple wooden buck with a heat gun - (although part of me is toying with the idea of building a vacuum forming table.) I will also tidy up the opening of the window in the back. Lastly, putting in side windows with the sliding vent opening and rear view mirrors. My hope is to be ready to paint by summer's end.


06-05-14, 03:09 PM
Here's an idea of what I am going for with my color combination of black and French Racing Blue. Wouldn't mind building one of these bodies, but that will probably have to wait and wait....and wait....!


06-28-14, 08:45 PM
I 've made a little progress, painted a few things, fabricated light buckets, filled sanded the light housings and primed them. The light bezels are made from license plate/car tag aluminum. Sometimes I've made these by hammering solder wire flat and shaping it into a ring of the right size, but since weight is an issue here and the aluminum has some thickness to it but without much mass, I gave it a try. Here's the latest:


I also blacked out the front and rear spoilers, the wing, and the hood just to start getting an idea of the color contrast with the future body color.


I am making up the plan as I go along and things like the fender flares are still up for reconsideration. I tried fastening some mock ups to the outside and was not happy with the fit. Now they are fastened from the underside, but I still need to figure out a way to get them flush with the wheel wells. My hope is once I get that figured, I might be able to actually finish paint the body and spend time on the limited interior features, but since there is no deadline, I'll just plug along and handle it when I can Lord willing.

09-27-14, 05:38 PM
I had been pondering what to do about my fender flairs because there was a lot of work to make them fit smoothly with the openings in the plastic body and I wanted them removable for the sake of repairability should I crash the the car as well. The aluminum I used was cut to shape and fitted but I needed more thickness to close the gap. Chassisdude was using some of the foam with the adhesive back for upholstery on his Offy Roadster build and that got me thinking - it's lightweight, easy to work with, sticks well, but being foam it won't take a solvent based paint spray. Enter wood glue - water base but dries to a hard shell so two coats of that with a small paint brush and some sanding and I'm on my way. The fronts are more or less done and so I'm showing the rears in progress. The wood glue is drying on the rear flairs and it will take some time before I can paint them, but you get the idea from these photos. I've been making up my own solutions t0 the challenges of adapting this body to my RC chassis (that too will be rebuilt sometime TBA) so I tinker, fit, recut, redo, and even scrap some of my attempts at one task or another which means slow going, but I am optimistic about finishing this now that this hurdle has been cleared. Windows will be the next hurdle, especially the front and rear. The originals are too heavy and not transparent enough.

The flare and the material:

The fit into the body:


The glue used to coat the foam in order to paint it:


The finished flair on the front:


3/4 view with progress thus far:


11-11-14, 12:38 AM
Progress continues to be slow. I finally came up with a rear hatch treatment I liked and which was easy to make. I had at one point planned to make a home built vacuum forming machine and do a rear window similar to the C5 and C6 vettes but that is a project for another day. I was looking at images of the new C7 vette and decided to incorporate some inspiration from its rear window (though I have to say I hate the rear end, especially the tail lights on the new vette). I mocked it up in heavy paper and then made it out of sheet aluminum. I also changed the wheels back to another set I started with to see how the whole thing works together. I like these and will tidy them up later on. Unfortunately my camera phone is not working as well as I liked so I will shoot some more once I get some further finishing done and use a decent camera. In the meantime, here it is so far:

Paper mock up

Metal version

Primered metal version

Rear 3/4 view w primered metal hatch

Front 3/4 view

08-23-15, 12:17 AM
I've not had as much time to work on either project this summer as I had anticipated, but I set the Jag aside so I could focus on getting the Vette further along before school starts up again. I broke it down and went to work on prepping it to eventually be painted. Part one of the process involved fixing the joints where I sectioned the body. Thanks to Dr. Dave and his advice on using Methyl Ethyl Ketone or Mek with some plastic shavings, I was able to make a welding solution of sorts that made really strong bonds and they were sanded and lightly filled and then the whole thing was primered. The joints did not flex at all during the sanding process so we can now move on from those worries. I set it on the chassis minus the flares, tail pieces, and side exhaust coverings just to show where I'm at so far. The hood scoop is taken from the cowl induction bulge of the Jag's cracked hood which I replaced with a newer completely intact hood. It works quite well to my eye so I'm going with it.

MEK joints before sanding.

MEK Joints after sanding and before filler.

Primer sans flares, wing, tail cap, and side exhaust.


09-19-15, 11:32 PM
Well, time for an update although my build is slow and rather crude by comparison. Disaster struck. Episode 1 - My sons have a rock band which rehearses once or twice a week in the room next to my storage room where my project sits. My shelves holding my polycarbonate RC bodies were light duty plywood sitting on uprights screwed into the wall. My youngest son's new bass amp vibrates the walls pretty good and the shelves came down....landing on the vette body. No major damage to the body, but the roll cage I made out of aluminum tubing was sitting out since I was working on prepping for paint and it got flattened. I can make another and probably better than what I had, but a bit of a setback. Episode 2 - My wife was cleaning in the store room and the table got bumped causing the left side headlight cover to fall off. She didn't realize it and didn't see it fall. I searched and searched and it has yet to turn up so I have set about to making a new one. The original was made from the outer part of the original vette headlight assembly and not having any spares, I'm having to fabricate two new ones (so they can match better) but not out of plastic. I have some old license plates made out of aluminum and the material is easy to shape so I made a template out of cardboard, traced it on the plate and cut it out to form the new covers. It is more work than expected because the translation from paper to aluminum can sometimes make it challenging to get a tight fit with the right curves and the right shaped hole, and then I have to get them to match each other. You scratch builders are much better at this than a rookie like myself and handle these challenges much more easily than me. Here it is, rough still.

The one on the left side of the photo is the original from the opposite side and the aluminum one on the right was the first I made.

The right front original and its rough cut replacement.

Fitment of the piece prior to drilling and shaping the hole.

A close match but more work to do.

My hope is to get all these pieces finished and maybe even get the color on this thing next month. Next task....screw those shelves to the uprights!

09-24-15, 10:03 PM
Headlights Round 3. Trying the bezels from the originals squeezed into the metal coverings I made to see if it gives the Vette a meaner look. They are a bit wide for the opening so I might open things up a bit, but as it goes, I may remake these yet again so they fit more snug in the body.



10-03-15, 07:49 PM
Here's the latest work on the headlights. Formed some new pieces and tried to be very careful with fitting them and making the openings the same size and shape. I sanded and primered them and also painted the original bezels I was adapting to fit. Not completely satisfied with the bezels, but they are a little better than what I had before. I can't really make the openings any larger and the diameter of the bezels are a little large for a four light set up given how they are set back in. Granted they are not functional and this doesn't have to be super detailed, but I'm looking for a sense of balance and not getting it with this current setup. Smaller lights ought to do it.





10-22-15, 06:14 PM
Well, here we go again with yet another iteration of the headlamps. I made new shells, full light buckets and found some medication caps that worked well as bezels - then ruined those with some bad paint and had to remake them - but had lots left over as my wife is a nurse and these things come home in her pockets and end up in either the washing machine or the dryer. I shaped the openings as well. Here's what I have now. I like the look of smaller lights and tucked up under the outer shells, they have more of the look I was going for. We'll keep plugging along. I'll start working the interior a bit and refining some of the other things I've done on it, but hope to complete this by the end of the year.




01-03-16, 12:38 AM
This process is entirely too slow, but I am working away at it still. I was hoping to have a coat of blue paint on this thing by the end of the year, but I've got a long list of details to fix before I can do that. There's an expression that everything is created twice - i.e., there is the concept in the brain and the working out in reality, but for me it's three or four times. I've remade nearly every fabricated piece on this car since I find things that are uneven or don't fit right and that has been part of the hold up. Latest work includes re-doing the front wheel vents, and redoing the rear spoiler which was not sitting quite right. The wing and its mounting bracket is off right now and will be reinstalled once I finish some other things in the back. I sorted out the attachment of the rear fascia a bit more and tried making a tow ring but it sits a little too far in so I will make another and also do one for the front. I also painted the roll cage, but need to sand it in spots and repaint again. Still lots of work left to do on the front as well but that will be for another update.






01-18-16, 08:54 PM
A sunny day and warmer weather calls for a run around the driveway once in a while. The light was good for bringing out a few details sometimes hidden from the camera. Lots left to do though.




I'll be off from this build for a while heading into the busiest season of my school year, but it's just as well since I have more prep work to do, and the temperature is not warm enough to paint yet. In the meantime, I will be savoring some of the really spectacular builds here. Ciao!

05-23-16, 09:54 PM
I love the aluminum accents. It might look cool to paint the plastic parts, but buff the aluminum and clear coat. Nice project!

05-25-16, 02:08 PM
Thanks. I have been delayed at getting the body finished. My school year is done, but the honey do list had some fairly urgent things to attend to. As for the aluminum, the only unpainted aluminum I was planning on was the vents behind the front wheels. I am debating what color to paint the currently unpainted parts -black? metalic blue with the body? semi flat white ? Not sure yet. I have to repair a crack in the cowl where I spliced in some plastic (it had been cut by a previous owner who appeared to be making it into some sort of RC funny car. I hope to get the body more or less finished by summer's end. I'll think on the aluminum accents!

06-09-16, 07:53 PM
Well folks, I need some tips on painting. I used a Tamiya lacquer gray primer which was very easy to work with under the premise that a good primer can save a lot of hassles with the top coat and it was my understanding a lacquer primer would not react with the top coat if I went another type of paint. My top color was a cobalt blue metallic made by Krylon as I have had reasonable good luck with that brand in other things and it's affordable and comes in a larger quantity. Some spots look really good and have a nice gloss while other spots have an almost matte finish to it and in a couple of places it has bubbled. I can sand out the bubbles, but the inconsistency in the sheen is the biggest problem. In know when I ask, "Any suggestions?" the response will be "Spend more money on better paint!" but I really do not have a lot to spend on these projects. SO here goes. Any suggestions as to how to get the shine out of it? Buff it with a rubbing compound? Clear coat? It doesn't look terrible but it could be better. Suggestions welcome. Thanks. Let the flogging begin.

06-10-16, 12:29 PM
How long did you let the primer out-gas before applying the top-coat? When you're mixing types of paint, it is usually best to let the primer fully out-gas before covering it to make sure it won't react with the top coat. The bubbles and dull spots could be caused by the primer's volatiles getting trapped beneath the top coat. I'm no paint expert though, so if someone with more experience doesn't agree with me, definitely follow their advise.

06-11-16, 11:57 AM
Thanks for the tips. That may have played a part. For the most part the primer had been on for quite some time, but I putty'd up some small spots and sanded and primed them and a few of those spots reacted, but then other spots didn't. As it stands now it will have to sit for a week while I go off and teach. I am also thinking the metalic paint particles are a little large even on a 1/8 scale and I have an interesting satin/matte blue paint (same brand) that I am toying with putting on, but that will be after a good sanding (dry and wet) all over. No firm decision yet, but the satin finish seems to be in vogue these days with restomods and such. I am optimistic I can fix this and will work on it and post some picks in two weeks. Thanks again.

06-20-16, 09:48 PM
Well I think I have found my problem with the inconsistency of the paint surface. I made the fatal mistake of using a tack cloth after sanding that had residue from another project - a furniture project to be exact. I assumed (and for this I should be flogged at sunrise) that tack clothes were like Las Vegas - What happens in Las Vegas stays in Las Vegas = what happens with a tack cloth stays on a tack cloth - but no. It is not so if my diagnosis is correct and I'm pretty sure it is. Since I have determined the cause I have sanded the surface and will get a new fresh tack cloth to wipe it down. I will also be changing to a satin matte finish paint as the metallic particles are too large for this car - it comes out looking like a blue sparkle and I'm not a fan. That said, I need sage advice! After I use the tack cloth should I wipe the car down with something such as denatured alcohol? Should I re-coat with primer before the new paint (which is also a similar shade of blue) or can I just put the new paint over the sanded surface? I'll await further instructions from higher up the chain of command! Thanks!

06-22-16, 07:59 PM
Paint help needed! See my post before this for my questions. Thanks.


06-28-16, 12:59 PM
Larry, a coat of primer never hurts, but if you have an even, sanded paint finish that is all the same color, you should be able to paint over it without priming, especially if the new top coat is a similar color. For scale models, I try to avoid putting too many coats of paint on because it tends to fill up any small details like door cuts, so if you have a good base to start with, you should be ok to paint over it without putting more primer on. But if there are areas that are a different color, like if you sanded through to primer in some spots, you may need a new primer coat to make it all the same color before you paint the final color over it. Any spots that are a different color on the base can possibly show through on the top coats depending on the type and color of paint.

06-29-16, 11:26 PM
Thanks very much. I was concerned about doing primer again since I used a lacquer based primer and figured I'd have to use something else so as to not have a reaction. That much I do know about paint - lacquer okay underneath enamel but not on top! Back to the pain store. The matte type finish I applied thankfully didn't react, but there were some issues with it and I will sand it down and try again. I have to lay off of it for a few weeks as my schedule has me away a lot this month.

08-06-16, 04:43 PM
Have started in on paint. Tamiya French Blue for the main body. The lacquer has proved very easy to work with and though the results are far from perfect, I think I can move ahead. Still have another coat to do and then some clear. I pieced it together to take some shots.

08-06-16, 07:21 PM
Love it!

08-15-16, 07:26 PM
A painting question for you folks. I've put on a coat of clear on the blue. Now, do I lightly sand this coat and do another? Do I simply put a coat of clear over without any sanding? Do I need to do anything with the clear once it is finished - rubbing compound? wax? none of the above? I'm new to lacquer painting. It's Tamiya for both the main coat and the clear. Any input is appreciated.


08-20-16, 07:08 PM
Still working on the re-assembly. More involved than expected. I'm about 75% of the way to where I want it. Here's the latest shots. I'll get fancier with the photos once it is done being assembled.






08-21-16, 12:46 AM
I put on a few more finishing touches before calling it a night. I'll shoot some better pics once time permits and sunlight is right.


08-22-16, 06:39 PM
Here it is 90% done. Still to do - sideview mirrors, a partial interior w driver, towing loops and disc brakes but those will have to wait. Work is starting up and I am off from building for a bit. in the meantime the afternoon sunshine permitted me some opportunity to shoot some better shots.






10-04-16, 08:56 PM
Love this thing. Quality (awesome) aside, the colors are amazing!

mad mike
10-05-16, 02:48 PM
I always thought I didn't like heavily modded classic cars. But man, this one looks good! Just watch out and don't wreck it on the curbs ;)
Btw, I heard you'd like to build a GT40 - my scratch MK1 is almost completed, hopefully I'll be able to post some pics in the next weeks...

10-05-16, 06:24 PM
Thanks MichaelW and Mad Mike. You both have shown some amazing work and I am not even close to being at your level so I greatly appreciate the encouragement. I too am not a fan of heavily modded classics because some spoil the line flow of the original and the C2 Corvette is such a complete design statement that I really wanted to be judicious in what I did and dream a bit about what could be at the same time. I still have a few small things to do on it, but I am now trying to figure out where I will go with my Jag project and build a new chassis with an adjustable front suspension to replace the current one at the same time. Once again, thanks very much.

05-29-19, 05:27 PM
In the last year I gathered some better components for a new chassis. The original was just a flat pan and had flexing issues and didn't handle particularly well since there was no camber adjustment in the suspension. I ended up getting the guts of a 2WD stadium truck for cheap and adapted them to an on-road application by adjusting the ride height down and moving the shock towers as well and then installing smaller shocks I had. An old friend of mine who is much more serious in the hoby than I am and competes sent me new electrics including a battery, receiver, speed control, servo and a brushless motor. All of that along with the new suspension went into a new tray style chassis which is much more rigid and held everything I needed quite well. Here's a shot to compare what I had before with the new chassis.

The original flat chassis with Nikko components is on the left and the newly made tray chassis with the mix of offroad/onroad components is on the left.

The new chassis goes like a "bat out of hell" as we say and I've had quite a few fun drives with it. It handles so much better and the amount of power I can put down is way more than the original. Burnouts, donuts, drifting are all possible with this one, but "with great power comes great responsibility" and I was a little too zealous with a full throttle burst and crashed! Thankfully it did not crack the body but it did ding it up a bit.


So my reason for posting is this was my first ever lacquer paint job and I don't want to screw up the whole thing trying to repair it.
I painted with Tamiya lacquer and clear coated it. I'd appreciate any advice on how to fix it. As I said, I don't want to repaint the whole thing. Just spot paint.

My options are to touch up the blue or do the nose from the back edge of the headlights forward in a matte white similar to the hood scoop. The latter being the route I'll go if repairing the blue is too big of a job for my skills. Thanks for any advice you might have.

05-29-19, 11:24 PM
Well, if I may offer my opinion, you will need to mask off the area to be repainted and those headlamp covers if they cannot be removed, then sand the surface down flat, or at least feather edge sand those nicks and get it smooth, then re-paint and re-clear.

I think it is lucky you used Tamiya, and that blue in particular, because I think the new paint will match well which it might not if the paint was more translucent.

But that blue ought to cover fine.

So mask, sand, probably remove mask and redo it for the paint stage, paint color, paint clear...I would probably spray the clear about a half hour after the color and remove the masking about an hour or maybe even just a half hour after the clear goes on.

Oh and use Tamiya masking tape, it makes a big difference. Some other specialty tapes are fine, but don't use common Scotch masking tape or anything like that, it will bleed and tear the edge almost for sure.

Then after your paint has cured for a day or two you can use a polishing cloth kit to blend the surfaces together a bit though it doesnt look like it would be necessary if you use the hard lines like panel lines as your edge. But if you did get a bit of bleed-under from the tape you can polish that off at this stage.

But then you will take it back out and race it again? he1he i hear ya man, its what i did with slot cars. Take some pictures then put it on the track and all bets are off.

hope that helps


05-30-19, 12:34 AM
Thanks very much. That is quite helpful. I made it so things could be disassembled for repairs so the whole headlight assembly can come out and the grill is easily removed too. The flairs and spoilers and wing are all removable so I'll do a partial breakdown. I've used green frog tape to mask in the past and will try and score some Tamiya tape because of the delicate nature of this repair. Sadly, the only full service hobby shop for about 75 miles just shut its doors so I'll look onlne. Thanks again JB.