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JohnReid
05-26-08, 11:40 AM
Hi guys! Just joined today.I have been building 1/16th dioramas based upon the Model Airways kits for about 10 years now.They are destined for the Canada Aviation Museum this Fall.
Will post some pics! Cheers! John.

JohnReid
05-26-08, 11:45 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/05/67.jpg

JohnReid
05-26-08, 11:48 AM
This is a highly modified version of the JN4 and has a lot of changes to its fuselage and engine.

sydeem
05-26-08, 11:50 AM
Oh my gosh. That is a great picture of the real hanger. Be sure to show us the model of the hanger when you make one!

I believe you have a web site of you diorama build. Why not post your URL here. I think the fixed wing guys would enjoy visiting it.

MojoDoctor
05-26-08, 12:09 PM
Welcome John!

Nice to see you over here with your gorgeous builds. 1thumbup1
This is a great group of very talented builders with lots to share.

Please post a link so these guys can check out your work. I have your Photobucket 'bookmarked' but don't know if it would be okay to post it here.

JohnReid
05-26-08, 12:12 PM
Sorry Syd,I don't have a personal website.The closest I come to one is a sticky over on
http://www.theaerodrome.com look under Forums,Models and then How I build......Cheers! John.

JohnReid
05-26-08, 12:27 PM
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

JohnReid
05-26-08, 12:33 PM
I am just in the slow process of organizing my pics into sub-albums.I also plan to start a new thread and organize it into more of a book form once I find some time.

JohnReid
05-26-08, 12:37 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
05-26-08, 12:38 PM
This view is through the back door of the WC area,and on into the main hangar.You can just see the Jenny in the background.
I will be getting back to finishing the lighting today and will post pics.

hot ford coupe
05-26-08, 05:28 PM
O.K. Who put the picture of a real Jenny and a real hangar on the site? That's fantastic work John. Glad to see you over here. I really love how you do those dios. I've got to try that myself at some point.

Rick
05-26-08, 05:50 PM
Welcome from a fellow Canuk (Victoria BC) John. You'll like it here.

hot ford coupe
05-26-08, 10:10 PM
If you want to see more of John's great work, go over to LSP and you'll have a blast.

modelmaker
05-27-08, 06:14 AM
Hi John , welcome over here these guys are a great bunch !! you'll know me over at LSP as " Camelhead" 1thumbup1

Sean

mouppe
05-27-08, 10:15 AM
Hi John,

I sent you a PM,

Mouppe.

Lancair IV
05-27-08, 01:43 PM
Hi John,

I've been following the build on another site and all I can say is, OMG I wish I could do this type of Diorama. Absolutley stunning work. 1thumbup1 What do you have planned next?

JohnReid
05-27-08, 03:40 PM
Thanks guys! your kind comments are really appreciated.

JohnReid
05-27-08, 03:50 PM
Hi Lancair! I see that you are planning to build the 1/16th Camel.Are you aware of the problems with this kit?I recently built one being towed behind a Model T truck.Sorry to say but I was less than impressed with the kit.If you want accuracy this kit requires a lot of research and scratchbuilding.If you are happy with an out of the box build it is acceptable but not a very accurate representation of a Camel.
Their best kit is the Jenny in my opinion.Cheers! John.

JohnReid
05-27-08, 03:52 PM
Hi John,

I sent you a PM,

Mouppe.
You should have a reply!

sydeem
05-27-08, 03:59 PM
John - after plowing through something short of 30 pages of your photobucket I am flabbergasted at your detailing. Lancair, be sure to get through pages 16-22 for our Camel builds. There are a bunch of ideas there.

John, I see you hand cut copper brackets for each frame attaching point. I originally wanted to do something like that but I just don't have the patience. You didn't happen to make these by photo-etching them did you? Be nice to be able to buy an etched sheet from someone.

JohnReid
05-27-08, 06:17 PM
Hi Syd!Those photoetch parts are actually leftovers from my 2nd Jenny build.I will soon be organizing all the Camel pics in a sub-album.

Lancair IV
05-27-08, 09:49 PM
Hi Lancair! I see that you are planning to build the 1/16th Camel.Are you aware of the problems with this kit?I recently built one being towed behind a Model T truck.Sorry to say but I was less than impressed with the kit.If you want accuracy this kit requires a lot of research and scratchbuilding.If you are happy with an out of the box build it is acceptable but not a very accurate representation of a Camel.
Their best kit is the Jenny in my opinion.Cheers! John.

Thanks John. I do plan on building a lot of custom parts for the kit. I've been doing a lot of research on the internet on the Sopwith Camel and I hope to have a fairly correct model. Unfortunately, my resources are limited. I'm heading down to Finley Ohio tomorrow on usiness and I might try to drive down to the Dayton Air Force Museum in the afternoon. Where did you do your Camel research?

If mine turns out half as good as yours, I'll be happy.

Cheers

JohnReid
05-28-08, 09:02 AM
Hi Rob!The problem with the Camel kit is that there is no warning where the kit deviates from the real aircraft.From day one you will have to make decisions on what to leave in and what to leave out and it can become very difficult to correct things later if you change your mind.A good example of this are the fuselage fittings for the internal brace wires.
I would recommend that you stain and seal all ribs before removing them from the laser cut board.I used spray lacquer on mine.Nothing looks worse than glue marks on the wood.Luckily the Camel does not have vertical reinforcing strips on its ribs so no worry there.I would normally glue these on before removal as well.
Try to gather as much info as you can before beginning so at least you can make an informed decision.The plans and instruction book provided with this kit are mostly the product of someones imagination and not to be trusted.
For anyone that has no experience with these kits the best kit out there is the Jenny.All the others require require a lot of scratchbuilding if you want a fairly accurate airplane.
Cheers! John.

JohnReid
05-28-08, 09:10 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/05/68.jpg

JohnReid
05-28-08, 09:13 AM
Before even reaching this stage a lot of compromises had to be made.1gramps1

JohnReid
05-28-08, 09:16 AM
For those interested I have begun to transfer all the Camel related pictures to its own sub-album.Eventually I hope to have them in the proper order of the build.1gramps1

Don Garrett
05-28-08, 02:36 PM
Great info John....thanks.

JohnReid
06-02-08, 01:40 PM
The following has been taken from my thread on the Aerodome.com forum.I hope it will be some help to those building the Model Airways Camel kit.

A few notes on the Camel build.
The instruction manual is typical for a Model Airways.Engine ,wings,fuselage ,in that order.This past summer I have already built up the engine and it is ready for installation.For those who are interested and may have missed this part of the build please see my photobucket for pictures and http://www.theaerodrome.com for text, once on the site click on Forum,then Forums,models,"How to Build......"
They suggest going on to the wings before tackling the fuselage.I like to do the opposite Why? well the wings can be a long and mostly repetitive job where as on the fuselage you are always doing something new.It is also nice to have something to look at to encourage you on.I think that part of why a lot of these kits never get built is for this very reason.The wings have a lot of small fiddly parts that are easily broken ,lost etc... The confidence gained in doing the fuselage first, where the parts tend to be bigger and not so fragile, will serve a newcomer to this type of build very well.Once you have the basic fuselage built the chances are pretty great that you will press on to the finish line.
That being said the build will start on page 13 of the instruction manual.My text will not repeat what is already there, but will supplement the manual where my build differs from theirs, as well as point out areas where there may be a problem or easier way of doing things.I will be taking a lot more pics for reference now that I have a digital camera .Something that I was unable to do with my earlier builds.I will be doing this build in real time so if I screw up or lead you down the garden path at times you will just have to bear with me.

JohnReid
06-03-08, 03:44 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
06-03-08, 07:47 PM
Movin' on to the OX5 engine being crated ,I think this looks OK.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)

JohnReid
06-04-08, 11:41 AM
A few notes.
Modifications and possible scratchbuilding.
My usual way of doing things is to dive in and modify or scratchbuild as I go along.No "modeling for God " here ,if it can't be seen I won't build it.Ex: I would like to scratch the pilots seat but with the wings strapped to the side will it even be seen?Can't decide till I get there.
A lot of parts are obviously overscale ,even some of the wood dimensions. I will be checking it out.But you have to be careful with a kit as it is designed to be built using the stuff they supply.Change something now and it affects something later which is usually completely unforeseen.On occasion I will point out some problem with a part and go ahead and use it anyway.There are a lot of compromises that you have to make when building a large diorama on this scale.
Yes ,your best effort should be put into every piece you make, but you also have to know when to stop.Otherwise instead of 5 years it would be 20 and I have a lot more diorama stories that I would like to tell.

JohnReid
06-04-08, 11:44 AM
Laser cut birch plywood parts are extremely strong and show very little grain, which is great for our purposes, however they do have some burn marks especially on the edges.I usually sand this off with a sanding stick and then seal the part using lacquer ,either a spray or by dunking the part in a bottle of 1/3rd lacquer and 2/3rds lacquer thinner.This is very important if you don't want to have glue marks marring your wood.(The laser cut wing ribs will be treated a little different but for now it is important not to remove them from the board.)
F3 comes in two pieces, which are now glued together ,I use small clothes pins for clamps.

JohnReid
06-04-08, 11:59 AM
A note on jigs!
This is the first time that the manufacturer has not supplied a laser cut jig for assembling the fuselage.Although not completely necessary ,it was a good place to start(especially for a beginner)The kit does supply drawings for a few jigs but you must build your own.I think that this is a step backward for first time modelers who may have been expecting that everything was in the box.On the plus side, it is clearly stated in the instruction manual available on their website, that "jig parts are supplied by the modeler".They do however supply what looks like a nice metal stand that can be rotated when working on the basic fuselage.
Win some,lose some, I guess!

sydeem
06-04-08, 12:07 PM
The hammer next to the OX5 engine - kit, doll furniture or scratch?

Appreciated your suggestion to stain before removing the laser cut parts. Wish I had heard it before doing my wings. Getting a little lost between Camel and OX5 references. F3? You might want to start more than one thread?

Just for fun I drop back to your Photobucket every now and then for inspiration. Keep posting.

JohnReid
06-04-08, 07:02 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
06-04-08, 07:05 PM
The hammer next to the OX5 engine - kit, doll furniture or scratch?

Appreciated your suggestion to stain before removing the laser cut parts. Wish I had heard it before doing my wings. Getting a little lost between Camel and OX5 references. F3? You might want to start more than one thread?

Just for fun I drop back to your Photobucket every now and then for inspiration. Keep posting.
It is dollhouse stuff from the UK ,expensive but really nice stuff.My motto is buy what you can and built what you must,the storyline is the most important thing about dioramas.1gramps1

JohnReid
06-05-08, 10:56 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

hot ford coupe
06-05-08, 01:01 PM
Gee whiz, john. That's some fantastic dio work. Even the garbage in the pails looks real. That's a great touch. I also wanted to mention that one of your figures looks just like George Patton.

JohnReid
06-06-08, 11:37 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
06-06-08, 11:40 AM
Gee whiz, john. That's some fantastic dio work. Even the garbage in the pails looks real. That's a great touch. I also wanted to mention that one of your figures looks just like George Patton.
Man ! you have a good eye.It is George Patton1thumbup1 I used a Model Cellar resin casting and changed the uniform.

JohnReid
06-06-08, 02:27 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg
This is the almost finished L/H side of the diorama.

JohnReid
06-08-08, 07:10 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
06-09-08, 10:24 AM
Advertising the air races from under the carports roof behind the air show car.I have put different things such as this for the kids to find.There also will be four animals to discover of which the horse Comanche will be the easiest and the cat Chester the hardest.In addition to Harley the dog there will be Hooters the barn owl in the roof rafters.

sydeem
06-09-08, 11:29 AM
Details - Clearly its all in the details that make the diorama tell a story. Wish I had the real estate to experiment with dioramas. It sounds like fun.

JohnReid
06-09-08, 07:59 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

hot ford coupe
06-10-08, 12:25 AM
Lesson #1 starts today. 1thumbup1

JohnReid
06-10-08, 08:18 AM
Making Barnsiding or antique flooring.
These are the steps that I follow when making old barn siding or weathered flooring.
-starting with a doctors tongue depressor which I believe is birchwood,I cut the ends off square.
-now taking the raw wood, paint on two thin coat of acrylic nimbus grey mixed with a bit of raw umber,letting the grain of the underlying wood show through.If the wood warps too much you can use some weights .
-taking a large needle poke holes in the board in a pattern you require.
-take a HB pencil and twist a little graphite into each hole.
-fill each holes with a small drop of very watery raw umber to swell the wood back level again.
-take an old toothbrush and flick on some of the watery raw umber.
-put a small drop of watery burnt sienna for the rusty nail look.Drag a little of the burnt sienna down the board ,here and there for effect.
-the second picture shows how pastels can be used to soften down the whole thing.

JohnReid
06-10-08, 08:20 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
06-10-08, 07:04 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/06/24.jpg
Having fun with the camera!1thumbup1

hot ford coupe
06-10-08, 08:14 PM
Great tutorial, John. I have one question though. I did a similar technique when I made my 1/32 Allison engine stand. The tongue blades warped like crazy. If you put them under the weights, how long do you leave them and does the warp ever come back? Thanks in advance.

JohnReid
06-11-08, 10:02 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

JohnReid
06-11-08, 10:59 AM
Not the best figure painting in the world but acceptable for diorama purposes.None of these figures will be viewed this close up when in the diorama.I painted these with the use of overhead lighting in mind.
One of my personal goals is to one day paint like the pros and sculpt my own figures but in the meantime this will have to do.My next diorama "The Backyard Flier" will have fewer figures but of better quality.(I hope)

JohnReid
06-12-08, 01:42 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

Don Garrett
06-12-08, 02:52 PM
gringrin ;';;'; 1thumbup1 1thumbup1 1thumbup1 1thumbup1

JohnReid
06-13-08, 09:25 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/06/32.jpg

JohnReid
06-13-08, 11:27 AM
Deleted Pictures in this thread.
Well I think that I have finally solved the deleted pics problem(DUH!)
Originally I thought that I was limited to 1000 pics in my photobucket album(which was never the case)and have been deleting the old pics as I go along.Mistake number one.The limit is on the main album but you can create as many sub-albums as you like.
Then I decided to move all the pics to sub-albums which of course broke all the original picture links.Unfortunately ,this is still the case until I get everything moved into sub-albums which should be soon.All my pics since the beginning will be there in the sub-albums.There they will remain until I croak as I don't intent to move them again.I haven't yet figured out if I can move them around in the sub-albums to put them in proper sequence without breaking the links again,so until I am absolutely sure they will be in a little disarray .
Sorry for the confusion you guys!In the future I plan to organize this thread into a sort of on-line book and at that time I will put the proper text with the pic that it is referring to.
My photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid

sydeem
06-13-08, 12:19 PM
The album sorting is a great help. Wish I had paid more attention to your detailed pictures as I was building my camel but it was a chore to dig through the complete photobucket. Now I can just pick the Camel album on your great site to review your camel details. BTW you did very nice detail additions.

JohnReid
06-15-08, 09:07 AM
I have finished moving the pics to sub-albums and will attempt to restore some of the later ones to this thread.The names on the sub-albums pretty much explain the contents however the pics within those sub-albums are in no particular order.1gramps1

hot ford coupe
06-15-08, 03:16 PM
That dio is absolutely fantastic. It looks so dang real it's incredible.

JohnReid
06-17-08, 05:49 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

ScaleMotorcars
06-17-08, 06:01 PM
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! John what happened1confused11confused1????

Wheres all those beautiful pictures ???? 1sad1

Can you, or can I make copies in the SMC gallery? Heres the link to the Airplane gallery (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/627). If you don't mind me doing it I can add them in a zip file taken from your photobucket and add credit below each. You would have to add them one at a time but then you could add a description below each and have them in your own personal album.

If your not cool with that its OK. Just hate to see those blank boxes. 1yeah1

JohnReid
06-17-08, 06:22 PM
The front panel!
Putting the front panel back together for the last time.I have taken a series of pics showing how to take this thing apart and put it back together.It is surprisingly easy if you know how .The landscaping,modules ,hangar walls,roof and rafters right down to the hangar floor can be taken apart in half an
hour and put back together in about an hour.(it always takes longer)I would recommend to anyone building a large diorama that you take the extra time to make it easily taken apart.
I want to put together a picture package for the museum as I believe that in this case a pic is worth a thousand words.
The first pic shows the front area completely taken apart.The next few will show how to put it all back together again.
These pics are all located in my sub-album "Construction dio3".

JohnReid
06-17-08, 06:27 PM
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! John what happened1confused11confused1????

Wheres all those beautiful pictures ???? 1sad1

Can you, or can I make copies in the SMC gallery? Heres the link to the Airplane gallery (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/627). If you don't mind me doing it I can add them in a zip file taken from your photobucket and add credit below each. You would have to add them one at a time but then you could add a description below each and have them in your own personal album.

If your not cool with that its OK. Just hate to see those blank boxes. 1yeah1
Sure that is fine by me!1gramps1

ScaleMotorcars
06-17-08, 06:33 PM
Cool Ill get started on that later tonight. You'll also be able to link to those if you want and theres no file limit. If there was I would toss it to see more of your amazing builds. gringrin

JohnReid
06-20-08, 05:32 PM
I am nearing the end of the Jenny diorama and probably have about 2 weeks building time to completion of the project.I have decided to go back and re-visit a project that I thought that I had finished 7 years ago.I have learned a lot about dioramas since then and the piece now looks unfinished to me now.
I am planning do the exterior landscaping and add another Albatros D.Va airplane as a basketcase being robbed of parts.I will post some pics here every few days but for an in-depth everyday update please see :
http://www.theaerodrome.com
See Forums,How I build dioramas......
Cheers! John.

hot ford coupe
06-20-08, 09:38 PM
Hey John, would it be possible for you to show us the older dio and show us why you feel it's unfinished? I think it would be a great help to a bunch of us dio newbies.

JohnReid
06-21-08, 09:39 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/06/91.jpg

JohnReid
06-21-08, 09:53 AM
Hi! I originally conceived this diorama to be a self contained unit in a hanger box/case,but now I realize it can be so much more .I plan to do an exterior somewhat like the Jenny diorama.
I have learned so much since completing this diorama 7 years ago that it now looks unfinished to me.Besides I am looking for a nice weather outdoor project for this summer and landscaping is a lot of fun but best done outside.The interior of the hanger is finished except I would like to re-paint the face of the mechanic standing at the engine with the rag in his hand.(too pale looking)
I was always a little intimidated by the outdoor landscaping of my projects but now I really find that it is a lot of fun and can be really creative.1gramps1

JohnReid
06-21-08, 09:55 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/06/93.jpg
For more pics see: Albatros dio1 in my photobucket sub-albums.

hot ford coupe
06-21-08, 10:31 AM
Thanks John. That works for me.

JohnReid
07-01-08, 09:55 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/07/6.jpg
This is where this diorama stands now,but I have plans!1gramps1

sydeem
07-01-08, 10:54 AM
Golly - such exception detail. Do you glue everything down so when the doors are up you can move the dio without worry or is each element separately packed inside for storage when not on display?

Lancair IV
07-01-08, 11:08 AM
Hi John,

Your work is absolutley stunning. Are you building these for museums or for yourself? How many years have you been building these works of art?

Keep the pictures coming. I stop what ever I'm doing to see what you and Syd are posting.

gringrin

JohnReid
07-01-08, 10:22 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/07/7.jpg

JohnReid
07-01-08, 10:34 PM
Hi Rob! I didn't plan it that way but yes they are going to the Canada Aviation Museum in Ottawa.I have been doing airplane dioramas for almost 10 years now.The one that I am working on now, the Albatros, was actually my first diorama that I am now expanding on.1gramps1

JohnReid
07-01-08, 10:39 PM
Golly - such exception detail. Do you glue everything down so when the doors are up you can move the dio without worry or is each element separately packed inside for storage when not on display?
Hi Syd! everything is glued and pinned down permanently .With the doors closed the diorama was originally designed as a self contained, dust proof unit.Now that I am expanding the doors will be left open and a case built over the whole thing.This will be done by the museum.1gramps1

JohnReid
07-02-08, 09:42 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/07/9.jpg

hot ford coupe
07-02-08, 10:57 AM
Zowie, the realism on that is staggering. It's definitely museum worthy.

JohnReid
07-18-08, 03:29 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/07/83.jpg

JohnReid
08-01-08, 11:16 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/5.jpg

Don Garrett
08-01-08, 02:50 PM
John your craftsmanship is awesome, that's a given. But as I look at each of your photos they begin to tell a story, the more I view them, the deeper I spiral into the tale they weave. Pure genius and wonderful stories from the day.

JohnReid
08-05-08, 11:21 AM
I am presently contributing to about 20 websites regarding 1/16th dioramas.Will give them a heads up about this site.1gramps1

Don Garrett
08-05-08, 02:32 PM
Thank you sir.1thumbup1

JohnReid
08-05-08, 07:01 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/66.jpg

JohnReid
08-05-08, 07:02 PM
Normally there would be a wood plank ramp laid down over the central door panel but obviously this aircraft will not be going anywhere for awhile .
I will put more wear and tear (tire impressions etc)in the area where the aircraft would be rolled out on to the ramp.Once I get it in the sunlight I will decide where more vegetation may be needed.
The whole thing looks a little vacant right now but I plan on adding a horse drawn wagon,wheelbarrow and other odds and ends off to the side of the front panel as I don't want to much there to distract the viewer from the main subject.The crashed Albatros will be added behind the L/H hangar door and won't be readily viewable from this angle.

hot ford coupe
08-05-08, 07:34 PM
1thumbup1 1thumbup1 1thumbup1 yu-rck yu-rck yu-rck

JohnReid
08-07-08, 10:22 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/96.jpg

JohnReid
08-07-08, 11:01 AM
Back to Jenny for awhile.
The Camel bridges two of the landscaping panels which I only realized could be a problem till now.Will have to think about this! Either join the two panels together,figure out some way of easily separating the airplane from the truck or using two removable wheel screws instead of just one for stability.

JohnReid
08-10-08, 03:33 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/165.jpg

JohnReid
08-10-08, 03:50 PM
Not bad for a city boy, eh!1thumbup1

hot ford coupe
08-10-08, 04:04 PM
1blaaa1 1blaaa1 1blaaa1 1rolling1 1rolling1 1rolling1 Now that's funny right there. I don't care who you are, that's funny right there. Hey John, you should have put a boot print in it with the soldier standing next to it with that special look on his face.

Don Garrett
08-11-08, 07:42 AM
1thumbup1 Cracked me up! 1thumbup1

JohnReid
08-11-08, 11:30 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/173.jpg

JohnReid
08-11-08, 07:34 PM
First step is to remove the military uniform.I do this by hand which takes a little time.Changing from military to civilian is great ,rather than the other way around, as it is a case mostly of removing stuff.The faint belt lines that you see are actually filled with very thin super glue and sanded smooth with the surrounding surface.The rest of the parts can be used as is ,it will make a nice 20's mechanic when finished.He too will also will be sporting a cigarette in his hand.

JohnReid
08-12-08, 12:20 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/174.jpg

JohnReid
08-12-08, 12:30 PM
What your well-dressed ground personnel would be wearing in the 20's
As you can see it is a real mixed bag of civvy and semi-military styles!

JohnReid
08-12-08, 09:36 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/175.jpg

Lancair IV
08-15-08, 10:01 AM
Hi John,

I can't see the pictures. It looks like there is a smiliey in the middle of the script.

Cheers

JohnReid
08-15-08, 04:21 PM
Hi John,

I can't see the pictures. It looks like there is a smiliey in the middle of the script.

Cheers
Yeah,I don't know why,it must be a problem with this website.Go to my photbucket and look under Figure Modification for the latest pics.
1gramps1

hot ford coupe
08-15-08, 06:43 PM
Sorry guys. It has to do with the smiley codes. If you lok at the smiley page, you'll see that each one is represented by some characters. 1red1 stands for the little guy with the hat so it will always show the smiley. We also have that problem with U.S.A. or USA . Without the periods, it shows up as a US flag.

JohnReid
08-16-08, 06:16 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/257.jpg

JohnReid
08-16-08, 06:46 PM
The smoking buds bodies an done ,now it is on to the heads.I employed my usual method of shading with pastels over flat paint.I think that I will have to put the big guy standing in a gully.

JohnReid
08-17-08, 07:13 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/267.jpg

John, If you're wondering whats up with that smiley in your photobucket code...here's the explaination:
The 3 letters (symbols) in your code that have been replaced by the image are the same as the smiley code. It doesn't happen often, but if you change your picture code or disable your smileys it will post properly.

JohnReid
08-20-08, 09:17 AM
Well now it is back to the crashed Albatros.I am really looking forward to doing this as it is something that I have never attempted before.I plan to build the whole thing on a skid type platform that I can easily rotate 360 deg for ready access to everything.I figure that chances are that if they were in a hurry to remove it from the field they would have slid planks under the engine area and dragged it off the field ,probably with horses.Once deposited near the hangar,there it would be scavenged for parts.1gramps1

JohnReid
08-20-08, 09:18 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/267.jpg

John, If you're wondering whats up with that smiley in your photobucket code...here's the explaination:
The 3 letters (symbols) in your code that have been replaced by the image are the same as the smiley code. It doesn't happen often, but if you change your picture code or disable your smileys it will post properly.
I wish I could change it but if I do the other sites I post to will lose the pics too.1gramps1

JohnReid
08-20-08, 09:20 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/290.jpg

Don Garrett
08-20-08, 02:17 PM
I wish I could change it but if I do the other sites I post to will lose the pics too.1gramps1

Don't you just love puter's? If you want, email me the pics and I'll see if I can post them for you.

JohnReid
08-23-08, 12:20 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/331.jpg

Don Garrett
08-23-08, 02:35 PM
Way cool!1thumbup1

Lancair IV
08-24-08, 01:14 PM
Keep the pictures coming John ;';;'; ;';;'; ;';;';

This is going to be awesome!1yeah1

Cheers

JohnReid
08-24-08, 01:34 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/357.jpg

JohnReid
08-24-08, 01:35 PM
I knocked #1 cylinder off its moorings by shearing the bolts at the base.This cylinder is now pushed back and off to the side of cylinder #2.Just this will result in a lot of damage to the camshaft etc... which will add to the look.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)

JohnReid
08-25-08, 07:14 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/358.jpg

JohnReid
08-25-08, 07:25 PM
The damaged engine is just about finished.I cheated a bit with the spark plug/ignition harness assembly and I also left off the valve springs as they will hardly be seen with the engine upside down.The electrical cables and the plumbing would mostly be destroyed in the fire.The engine will be finished and weathered when installed on the skid assembly.I made no attempt to clean up the castings or fill the holes and dents ,as this engine makes a fine wreck just the way it is.

JohnReid
08-26-08, 10:16 AM
I didn't have any references for a damaged engine so I just used my imagination.
It seems to me though, that rather than bending due to stress ,a lot of these parts such as the exhaust stack would probably just shear off due to the brittle natural of the metal.
The damage that I inflicted on the #1 cylinder would be from the nose over more than forward motion.I will probably break the engine off at the motor mounts and roll it slightly on its side to make it a little more interesting.
The next step will be to decide on the skid platform and mounting the engine to it.It will have to be large enough to rest not only the engine but the complete center section too.

hot ford coupe
08-26-08, 10:38 AM
I agree with you, John about the parts shearing off. I guess it also depends on how soft the ground was when the plane nosed over. If the engine nosed over in soft mud, you'll have a lot of opportunity to cover up parts of the engine with the mucky stuff to hide any inaccuracies.

Don Garrett
08-26-08, 02:35 PM
It would be easy to overlook the oil stained soil when that puppy came rest and with that kind of impact there would certainly have been structural damage and perhaps a sheared thing or two that weren't up to the task. Do I have the story line wrong?

Tage
08-26-08, 05:01 PM
So...
In the spirit of sharing,
I have a box of scale earth gouges, and a bag of scorched earth here somewhere.
Oops , scorched earth is from Viet Nam,
wrong time frame, besides it smells like napalm.
Oops, thats for my PBR kit.

You can really have fun with the crash scene, looking forward to seeing the outcome.

JohnReid
08-28-08, 10:00 AM
Model Airways kits.
For those who may be interested, Model Airways makes available on their website for download, the complete instruction manual for this build.
The instructions and plans for this model are actually quite good,it is a shame that the casting are so poor.Too bad because a lot of would be builders probably have been turned off these models because of this.It is not that they can't do a good job on these kits, as their Jenny is one of the best kits that I ever built.Sure it sells for a hundred bucks more but it is money well spent as there is no aftermarket left to buy but the glue.Above all the frustration level is really low if you study and follow the plans carefully.This cannot be said for any of their other kits, which require a lot of modification and scratchbuilding to make them right.Sure they are buildable but not very accurate,make a nice show piece but are far from museum quality.Buy the Jenny!1gramps1

hot ford coupe
08-28-08, 10:49 AM
The castings are always a problem when you try to keep costs down. You use cheap metal, quicker casting methods and cheaper investments that are not compatible with the metal. Otherwise the prices of the kits go way higher. I read an article in the journals that did some research with casting. They tried a number of methods and materials together and what they found was an eye opener. They had castings that were so full of holes and castings that were so sharp and clean. Then they coordinated the materials and techniques and the castings were consistently gorgeous. The trouble is that takes more money and more expertise. The difference is where our modeling skill have to come into play to correct the problems. I don't care how good a kit is, I can't pay $3000 clams for it. That's also why Fine Arts Models gets $14000 balloonz for a P51 the same size as the Model Airways kit.

JohnReid
08-28-08, 04:17 PM
I could even live with the lousy castings but ill researched plans and poor instructions are just plain not acceptable for a kit they claim to be museum quality.
It can be done right ,as they did for the Jenny ,with very little additional expense.75 to 100 bucks more can easily be eaten up trying to correct the obvious problems with the others.False economy in my view!1gramps1

Lancair IV
08-28-08, 08:18 PM
Model Airways kits.
For those who may be interested, Model Airways makes available on their website for download, the complete instruction manual for this build.
The instructions and plans for this model are actually quite good,it is a shame that the casting are so poor.Too bad because a lot of would be builders probably have been turned off these models because of this.It is not that they can't do a good job on these kits, as their Jenny is one of the best kits that I ever built.Sure it sells for a hundred bucks more but it is money well spent as there is no aftermarket left to buy but the glue.Above all the frustration level is really low if you study and follow the plans carefully.This cannot be said for any of their other kits, which require a lot of modification and scratchbuilding to make them right.Sure they are buildable but not very accurate,make a nice show piece but are far from museum quality.Buy the Jenny!1gramps1

Looking back at the Jenny build, and knowing what I know now with my Camel build, I wish I would have purchased the Jenny. Maybe I can talk Santa into it! 1thumbup1

hot ford coupe
08-28-08, 10:50 PM
I could even live with the lousy castings but ill researched plans and poor instructions are just plain not acceptable for a kit they claim to be museum quality.
It can be done right ,as they did for the Jenny ,with very little additional expense.75 to 100 bucks more can easily be eaten up trying to correct the obvious problems with the others.False economy in my view!1gramps1


I see where you're coming from, John. I actually wasn't criticizing you but was criticizing the model company. I didn't realize that there were other major problems with the kit. I was under the impression that the kit was well researched, with good instructions and well done parts. That kit is too expensive to have those kinds of booboos. It's just like we hashed and rehashed the Dragon and Trumpeter P51D thing on LSP. With those kinds of price tags, you'd expect the company to provide you with what you paid for, i.e. accurate shapes and parts with high detail and good instructions.

JohnReid
08-29-08, 09:56 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/388.jpg

JohnReid
08-30-08, 09:45 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/442.jpg

JohnReid
08-30-08, 10:06 PM
The lower longerons have been glued in place and the fuselage freed from its jig.The monocoque type construction is actually quite pleasing to the eye in its design.There were a few minor fitting problems in a couple of areas especially around the tail.In general the wood and the laser cut wood pieces only require some fine sanding and are of good quality.

JohnReid
08-31-08, 11:36 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/450.jpg

sydeem
08-31-08, 01:06 PM
The castings may be clumsy in these kits but the laser cut wood and the fixtures are true and excellent which has been shown by both the work you and Lancair are presenting. The fuselage alignment is perfect in both cases.

And John the blue background really showed off the work. Your photography has been great.

JohnReid
08-31-08, 04:59 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/454.jpg

JohnReid
08-31-08, 07:46 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/08/455.jpg

JohnReid
08-31-08, 07:55 PM
Before and after the big separation!
I hated to do it but.....the fuselage is now in two pieces.I separated it at bulkhead 6 just behind the aft U/C strut.
From here on it is all new to me.I won't be following the sequence of build as per the instruction booklet.The engine and fuselage will only be joined after all the hardware is in.I haven't yet decided on the plywood panels surrounding the engine compartment.I could show them either on or having been removed for savaging purposes.Either way there will have to be some burn damage to the longerons and engine bearer etc...I want it to look as though the fire was put out pretty quickly after the flash burn of the fabric wings.

JohnReid
09-01-08, 01:27 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/1.jpg

JohnReid
09-02-08, 10:27 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/16.jpg

JohnReid
09-02-08, 10:36 AM
The engine bearer and ledges are in after some minor fitting problems.The fuel tank casting and its plastic card walls are temporarily installed.The tank casting is poor and requires a lot of filing and filling.
The shape of the casting indicates to me that there must have been a strap or wooden bearer of some kind to better support its weight.Nothing is shown in the plans!1gramps1

hot ford coupe
09-02-08, 11:44 AM
Well done, John. Well done.

JohnReid
09-03-08, 12:19 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/25.jpg

JohnReid
09-03-08, 12:26 PM
Firewall
There is no firewall shown in the plans but this is a pretty good guess where it would have been installed just behind the engine but in front of the fuel tank.
The placement of the firewall is also important to the storyline .There would of course be more fire damage forward of the firewall.The fire that caused the flashover of the fabric more than likely would have been caused by the close proximity of the upper wing to the area forward of the firewall.Anyway that is my story and I am sticking to it! (I think)

Don Garrett
09-03-08, 02:52 PM
I love a good story....can almost smell the plowed and disturbed earth, that wet dog and charred wood aroma that permeates the air.....cool. Wonder if the pilot crapped his knickers?

JohnReid
09-03-08, 03:51 PM
Hold the phone! I can't find mention or plans for a firewall anywhere in my references.When I built my 1st Albatros about 10 years ago I didn't put one in then either.It seems that firewalls were only common on rotary powered aircraft.No parachute,no fire protection ,I guess you just fried on your way down.1gramps1

Don Garrett
09-04-08, 06:12 AM
Scary huh?

hot ford coupe
09-04-08, 01:04 PM
I'm surprised that the whole air service wasn't totally killed off. To be a pilot back then, you either had to have ice water in your veins or you had to be totally psychotic.

JohnReid
09-05-08, 11:32 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/52.jpg1gramps1

sydeem
09-05-08, 11:44 AM
Nothing like having the exhaust blow back in your face. Wonder if that was better than having a castor oil bath?1strange1

JohnReid
09-05-08, 12:10 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/53.jpg

JohnReid
09-05-08, 12:28 PM
The above 2 pics...
represent two different cockpit views of 2 different Albatros D III's .It is the only views I have from my reference material that shows something beyond just a tachometer.
There were other instruments on board even during WW1.I suspect that maybe the aircraft in the Smithsonian doesn't have them installed therefore no one shows them being on board.
The first instruments would be just stuck anywhere struts ,tubes etc....During WW1 things became a little more organized and there was some indication of primary and secondary instrument placing :such as airspeed,altimeter,tachometer, VOR,ILS oops... got carried away there. Secondary instruments like pressure gauges,temp ,content etc only became important when the engine was about to quit or run out of fuel(then they became real important)

JohnReid
09-05-08, 09:43 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/60.jpg

JohnReid
09-05-08, 09:57 PM
I grabbed a figure and put it near the model to better give you an idea of the the size relationship between aircraft and human,dogs of course come in all sizes.Fritz would be about the size of a bull mastiff.The wrecked Albatros will fit this space very nicely and will not be in direct competition with the other aircraft for the viewers attention.

Tage
09-05-08, 10:27 PM
Looks very good.

Will you weather it, and hang bits of fabric on it as you progress?

JohnReid
09-06-08, 10:18 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/83.jpg

JohnReid
09-06-08, 10:05 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/87.jpg

JohnReid
09-06-08, 10:20 PM
This is the only pic that I have of the instrument panel on the original Albatros that now sits inside the hangar of the diorama.It was taken through one of the rear windows.Unfortunately I never took any pics of the build as it was underway.
There are many things that I would do differently today but this was my first 1/16th aircraft and I didn't have the same skills or reference library in those days.

JohnReid
09-06-08, 10:24 PM
Looks very good.

Will you weather it, and hang bits of fabric on it as you progress?
Well there will be some fire damage as well as weathering.The fuselage is covered with plywood while the wings fabric will be mostly burned off due to flash fire.1gramps1

JohnReid
09-07-08, 10:44 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/92.jpg

Lancair IV
09-07-08, 10:49 AM
Stunning work. ;';;'; 1thumbup1

hot ford coupe
09-07-08, 01:53 PM
Absolutely first rate by any standard.

JohnReid
09-08-08, 10:51 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/101.jpg

JohnReid
09-09-08, 10:36 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/106.jpg

JohnReid
09-09-08, 10:47 AM
Please note: this is a trainer type so I will not be installing the guns or ammo or cartridge boxes.I left the laser scorch marks on the wood as it fits in with my plans of there having been a fire on board.

JohnReid
09-10-08, 06:26 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/109.jpg

JohnReid
09-11-08, 11:24 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/110.jpg

JohnReid
09-11-08, 12:09 PM
The plywood paneling has begun,(slowly).Measure ,cut and shape over and over until they fit,compound shapes and all!Not a lot of room for mistakes.Some of the lower panels I will leave off and/or show fire damage.
This will be a little tricky as I want to show enough fire damage to have caused a flashover of the fabric but not enough to have caused the explosion of the fuel tank.The fire that I am planning would have originated around the carburetor and its piping.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)

hot ford coupe
09-11-08, 01:12 PM
That's what I'll need to learn to do for really large scale planes. It really looks time consuming but it's well worth it.

JohnReid
09-11-08, 08:26 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/113.jpg

JohnReid
09-12-08, 11:16 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/117.jpg

JohnReid
09-12-08, 09:10 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/122.jpg

JohnReid
09-12-08, 09:28 PM
Beginning the fire damage....
starting at the underside of the engine compartment.Remember the wreck is upside down with the tail up.The fire had time to burn through the thin plywood skin but not the bulkheads.Because it was burning towards the tail the bulkheads would act as a kind of fire break and the burning would be more confined to the aft side of the bulkhead.

JohnReid
09-13-08, 10:24 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/123.jpg

JohnReid
09-14-08, 10:50 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/132.jpg

JohnReid
09-14-08, 03:56 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/133.jpg

JohnReid
09-15-08, 11:53 AM
The gear assembly.
The gear will be up next.Quality wise the castings are poor but because my model will be upside down there is no need to strengthen it as I did for the Camel.I wont bother fixing dings and dents either for this accident victim ,a little weathering should take care of that.
Having built all of the Model Airways models,except the Wright's airplane,I think that this kit could actually be made into something quite nice.It would require new tooling and stronger material for the metal fittings.Also a little updating of the instructions and plans would be in order to make the steps involved clearer.
More accurate cutting of some of the laser cut parts to fit the supplied raw wood parts (example ribs to spars)Use of photo etch for fittings as was done for the Jenny.This would probably up the price a bit to the cost of the Jenny but well worth it in my opinion.Probably will never happen but.......

JohnReid
09-15-08, 09:05 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/139.jpg

JohnReid
09-17-08, 10:25 AM
Building upside down!
After I finish the gear I will then build the upper wing which is made as a single unit.The wing will be the basis for the rest of the build.I don't foresee any major problems as with a wreck you have lots of room for artistic license!

JohnReid
09-17-08, 10:35 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/150.jpg

JohnReid
09-17-08, 07:51 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/151.jpg

JohnReid
09-18-08, 10:28 AM
On to the upper wing!
I haven't got around to weathering the cockpit yet but I think I will set this aside for now and build the upper wing assembly as it is really the base for the rest of this upside down piece to be built upon.
The upper wing is built all in one piece and I will leave it intact except for the odd ding here and there.The fabric will be mostly flash burned off so I will have to build all of the internal structure including the drag and anti-drag wires.

JohnReid
09-19-08, 11:02 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/153.jpg

hot ford coupe
09-19-08, 12:45 PM
Looking great John. I can't wait to see how you do the weathering especially the scorching.

JohnReid
09-20-08, 10:54 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/161.jpg

DonnyW
09-21-08, 01:47 PM
Wow.. your work is as good as ever John. I haven't seen it for a while. gringrin

Perhaps you remember me from the 'drome. I've been away from modelling for a few years..but making a slow comeback. I just found this forum .. doing a search for brass made models .. yup ..trying to follow in Ken's footsteps with a scratch build DR1.

JohnReid
09-21-08, 03:45 PM
Wow! Hi Donny imagine finding you over here.gringrin Glad that you are getting back at it.Those are pretty big footsteps to follow but Ken is very generous in sharing information.Good luck! Cheers.John.1gramps1

JohnReid
09-23-08, 09:42 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/182.jpg

JohnReid
09-23-08, 08:32 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/183.jpg

Lancair IV
09-23-08, 09:53 PM
I might have to built this one or the Jenny next. Your builds inspire me.

Cheers

JohnReid
09-26-08, 11:23 AM
Fire scorched wood.
I have been trying to think of a way to scorch the wood of the wing ribs,spars and cap strips. I had originally thought of using pastels after the wing was built but now I am thinking that nothing will look as good as actually scorching the wood itself.I will have to do this before I finish the assembly of the wing.The key is to scorch the wood in such a way as to not affect the glue joints or distort or warp the wood in any way.( I know great time to think of this now)
I was thinking of using a butane lighter but that could easily get out of hand.I have an old iron that I used in my ship building days for bending planks and it seems to me that if you let it get hot enough it would eventually scorch the wood.I also have a wood burning tool that I used for bird feathering on carvings.
I also need to experiment with a controlled burn on fabric ,as although most of it would be flash burned off ,some remnants would remain.
Should be fun!

Don Garrett
09-26-08, 01:55 PM
Hey John, I don't usually get mixed up in this fixed wing stuff, my last plane build was many years ago, a Ryan STA. It had a six foot wing span.
Have you considered the soot from (just as an example) a candle, improperly mixed torch or oil lamp? Takes a bit of a learning curve but if you position the frame or whatever in the sooty part of the flame it won't be hot enough to affect the glue joints. The soot should be heavy at the origin of the scale fire and diminish as it moves rearward, but you already know that.
Just a thought.

DonnyW
09-26-08, 04:01 PM
A sooty candle sounds like a good idea to me John.. a butane lighter sounds like you could be playing with fire gringrin .. look forward to seeing the results..im sure they will be stunning as always 1thumbup1

JohnReid
09-27-08, 10:43 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/227.jpg

JohnReid
09-27-08, 10:53 AM
Before scorching and weathering the skeletonized wing assembly I fitted the ribs to the fore and aft spars. Then when they were all bunched together I sanded the noses of all the ribs flat to later accept the leading edge.(there actually was very little to remove) The trailing edge will be worked on after the wing is assembled.

JohnReid
09-27-08, 10:53 AM
Thanks guys for the tips!1thumbup1

JohnReid
09-27-08, 06:25 PM
After a few further experiments I decided to go with a woodburning tool set at medium heat.Most other methods did not allow for enough control over the rate of scorching and some were too hard on the glue joints.When the wing is built I can further refine it a bit with pastels.

JohnReid
09-27-08, 06:30 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/228.jpg

JohnReid
09-28-08, 12:05 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/09/244.jpg

JohnReid
10-01-08, 11:41 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/2.jpg

JohnReid
10-02-08, 04:54 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/5.jpg

JohnReid
10-03-08, 11:35 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/14.jpg

JohnReid
10-04-08, 11:19 AM
Trailing edge and aileron spars and the leading edge have been temporarily installed.The aileron spars where the leading edge of the ailerons are attached must be shaped into a U type curve.
I had forgotten just how time consuming the the building of the Albatros wings can be,much more so than either the Camel or the Nieuport or maybe it is because I have a short memory!

JohnReid
10-05-08, 08:58 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/40.jpg

JohnReid
10-06-08, 09:54 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/45.jpg

JohnReid
10-06-08, 10:19 PM
Wood bending tool.
I use an old hair curler for bending wood.It remains at a nice constant temperature and has just the right curve for most hobby work.
I dunk my wood into water and let it soak for awhile depending on the thickness.Then I press the wood up against the curler and slowly bend it to shape.If you are bending right near the end of the wood get an old piece of wood or the end of an eraser to replace your fingers.Take your time and re-soak the wood if necessary.Even thin wood has a grain and some of it does not run lengthwise but is cross grain in nature,so if it keeps breaking select another piece.If the wood splits turn it over and bend the other way.After a while you will become more familiar with the grain of the wood just by looking at it.Experiment and take your time! Have fun.1gramps1

hot ford coupe
10-06-08, 11:27 PM
Thanks John. I've always wondered how to do that. That's how they curve the sides of a guitar body.

JohnReid
10-07-08, 11:08 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/46.jpg

JohnReid
10-07-08, 11:29 AM
Glueing up the wing.
The upper wing has been glued up using super thin super glue at all the joints and in between the bend laminated wood strips.The capillary action of the thin glue allows for all parts to be glued while pinned down to the building board.
Where the wing tips join the leading edge I made a 45 deg cut.
Let the glue cure for an hour or so and then the wing can be freed from the building board.Give it a quick check for any loose joints and apply more glue where necessary.Now it is on to the sanding.
Note: there is a pic on my photobucket site that shows the underside.The four rib from the front shows some deformation where the cap strip fits over the spar.I couldn't see this until after the wing was removed.It was probably caused by the rib installation somehow getting out of sequence when they were installed over the tapered spar.Normally I would replace it but this being a wreck I will make it a stress fracture.
There are many areas that could be improved in the fitting of the wood parts etc... I could without too much effort scratch the ailerons etc...but on a large project such as this I can't allow myself to get bogged down into too much detail that will never be seen upon installation.You have just got to draw the line somewhere and modeling for God is that line for me!This is not an excuse for poor modeling just reality if I ever hope to get anything finished.

JohnReid
10-08-08, 11:53 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/58.jpg

JohnReid
10-08-08, 12:08 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/59.jpg

JohnReid
10-08-08, 12:19 PM
Shaping the leading edge and wing tip.
Draw a line down the center of the leading edge and wing tip,this will be your reference point.This line is maintained until the sanding process is finished , it represents the outermost point to which the rest of the edge is shaped.In other words if you sand off the pencil line you are decreasing the width of the leading edge.Redraw the line if it accidentally gets rubbed or sanded off as soon as possible.Just before you lacquer the leading edge then you can remove the pencil line.Why do I emphasis this so much ? because after 11 years of teaching wood carving this was one of the most difficult points to get across to my students.
Believe it or not, one of the hardest things to carve is a ball from a square block of wood, using only four pencil points as a reference.Great for training the eye and for understanding wood grain.

JohnReid
10-09-08, 10:19 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/61.jpg

JohnReid
10-09-08, 10:43 AM
The sled.
The wreckage rests upon this sled and was dragged by horses or a truck to the spot beside the hangar.The wreckage had been ordered off the field right away with no time to even cut the control wires and remove the tail.
It is now being stripped of any usable parts and the rest will be sent to the junk pile.

JohnReid
10-09-08, 10:58 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/62.jpg

JohnReid
10-10-08, 11:00 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/87.jpg

JohnReid
10-10-08, 11:30 AM
I used my usual barn siding technique on the raw wood for the aging process and then used pastels for shading.I will leave it at this for now until I mount the engine and then will add oil spots,rusty nails,chains for pulling etc...The sled is the base upon which the rest will be built.
I have decided that there will not be a lot of fabric left on the wings or control surfaces other than a few burnt remnants.Why? because I want my viewer to be able to get a good look at the skeleton aircraft and how it was built.The plywood fuselage aft of the cockpit will give me ample opportunity to add a little color to an otherwise pretty drab scene by putting on some national and other markings.

hot ford coupe
10-10-08, 02:29 PM
I'm really digging this, John. I'm following every day even though I don't post every day. This is a real site highlight.

JohnReid
10-10-08, 03:10 PM
Glad that you are enjoying it as I am certainly having lots of fun doing it.1gramps1

JohnReid
10-11-08, 10:38 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/94.jpg1gramps1

JohnReid
10-11-08, 10:58 AM
The wing tips ,trailing edge and bent center section are finished.I did a little more scorching of the wood but will let it go at that for now ,until after I mount the front section of the fuselage and decide on the burn pattern.
__________________1gramps1

DonnyW
10-11-08, 01:34 PM
That little sledge looks so real John..the pastels really make a difference. You are getting on like a house on fire gringrin Look forward to watching more progress

JohnReid
10-12-08, 11:12 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/98.jpg

JohnReid
10-12-08, 12:33 PM
Burned fabric remnants.
Here is a great example of flash burning of the fabric on a wooden aircraft.
How much fabric to leave attached is a judgment call,in my view.
Some photos show an almost complete burn, others varying degrees of burn.
I think that the determining factor for me will be just how much color I want to add to the scene.
The little model above shows just enough color to be able to identify some of the squadron and national markings which is probably more important for an aircraft set in a field.My wreck is set in a diorama where this would be quite obvious.
Another consideration , in salvaging some of the parts ,would most of the remnants of fabric have been already torn off by the salvagers.Also, I can't imagine any base commander wanting a wreck hanging around for any length of time, especially if it was showing half burned squadron or national markings. Not good for morale,I would think.

JohnReid
10-13-08, 12:12 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/107.jpg

JohnReid
10-13-08, 01:18 PM
This is Fritz the dogs eye view of his masters wrecked airplane.The whole storyline is based upon this relationship and is what inspired me to expand this diorama in the first place.I will leave it to the viewers imagination as to whether his master survived to fight another day.
I was never very happy with the original diorama after building the other two.The story was weak,two pilots looking at a mechanic wiping down an engine after a run-up.Pleasant to look at but no real emotion.Now the main storyline is transported outside the confines of the hangar.What I am hoping is that the average viewer will initially be drawn to looking inside and only later discover the dog/man story outside.The hangar doors will be left open thereby somewhat hiding from view the real story.
At the same time I want the aircraft to be somewhat educational, in that I don't want to cover the structure with fabric.The fuselage being plywood I can leave off a few panels here and there to make it more interesting for those who may want a peak inside.
The fuselage broken at the cockpit with the hanging seat belt straps really adds to the pathos of the scene.The tail having been pushed over the lower wing suggests some sort of pilot resue attempt which would have really had to be done in haste if a fire was just breaking out.The fabric on the tail would then also have been involved in the flash over burn.
The wings are remarkably intact which suggests to me a low impact type crash or nose over.
I will leave it up to the imagination of the viewer as to what really happened, which is after all the real purpose of of any good diorama storyline.

JohnReid
10-15-08, 11:27 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/image_missing.jpg

ScaleMotorcars
10-15-08, 11:37 AM
Great photo John. 1thumbup1
I have to admit Ive never been a big fan of planes but I'm starting to get the bug. I love these vintage builds.

Hey, Ive got a great handmade wooden Bi Plane. Ill dig it out of storage and get some photos. Its not as good as your builds but it was entirely hand-carved back in the 30's or 40's. I think you guys will appreciate it.

JohnReid
10-15-08, 12:41 PM
Paint job on trainers.
This is a pic of an training accident that was kindly sent to me by Stephen Lawson.Looks like the aircraft on the right of the picture ran into another while both were on the ground.
What is especially interesting for me is the fabric paint job on the wings.
Evidently aircraft that were designed as trainers were painted differently right from the factory floor.

JohnReid
10-15-08, 12:42 PM
Great photo John. 1thumbup1
I have to admit Ive never been a big fan of planes but I'm starting to get the bug. I love these vintage builds.

Hey, Ive got a great handmade wooden Bi Plane. Ill dig it out of storage and get some photos. Its not as good as your builds but it was entirely hand-carved back in the 30's or 40's. I think you guys will appreciate it.
I would love to see the pics!1gramps1

hot ford coupe
10-15-08, 08:04 PM
Be careful, Dan. When the plane bug bites, it bites hard. I thought said goodbye to model aircraft about 15 years ago and now it's like I never stopped. Big scale aircraft really has so much potential for detail, it becomes sick but it's a good kind of sick. Try it, you'll like it.

JohnReid
10-15-08, 09:26 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/109.jpg

JohnReid
10-16-08, 10:31 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/110.jpg

xken
10-16-08, 10:54 AM
You may already know this; but for the benefit of others...take the piece of plywood and soak it in a very hot water and ammonia mixture 50/50 for a few minutes, them tamp off excess wetness with a paper towel and quickly pin in place the panel will hold it's shape to a degree.

The ammonia kind of breaks down the wood fiber and makes it much more pliable; if shaping over a wood buck follow immediately while still wet with a hot iron; a mini form of steam bending.

Ken1thumbup1

That is how this cockpit surround was formed out of 1/64th plywood.


http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/111.jpg

Another view of heat formed pieces.

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/112.jpg

hot ford coupe
10-16-08, 12:02 PM
You guys don't realize this but you're teaching me how to build an aircraft with brass and aluminum instead of wood. At some point, I'm going to attempt a WWII warbird. Thanks for all you're doing.

JohnReid
10-16-08, 10:46 PM
Thanks Ken! I never have had to use ammonia but I'll give it a try.1thumbup1

JohnReid
10-17-08, 05:47 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/115.jpg

JohnReid
10-17-08, 06:40 PM
Upper wing compression struts.
The metal end castings were blackened using a patina used by stained glass craftsmen.The brass tubing was blackened using "Blackin It".
They are not permanently glued in because I will be attaching the turnbuckles first.

JohnReid
10-18-08, 12:49 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/116.jpg1gramps1

JohnReid
10-18-08, 01:01 PM
Turnbuckles
Until now I usually made my own turnbuckles but this time I will use the leftover ones from the Camel build.
Upon examining them closely they are of a better quality than the ones supplied with the original Albatros kit,harder metal and more accurately cast.The other consideration was that they will hardly be noticeable on a burned wreck at normal viewing distance.When I did the first Albatros that now is in the hangar I wanted to highlight the turnbuckles and even took a little license to make them a little oversize.Why? because kids and most parents today don't have any idea of how these old wings were constructed.The wood aspect is obvious but the wire part with the turnbuckles is less well understood.This diorama is primarily an education tool.
The cast turnbuckles are first cleaned up and then dunked in blackening patina.I will leave the body black but file off some of the patina on the eye bolt part to add a little contrast.They are then dipped in thinned lacquer to seal the metal.
I have always sealed my metal castings just in case they contain any lead.
Brittania metal is not supposed to have any lead in it but some of the original castings seemed a little too soft for my liking.I am not a metallurgist but I didn't want to take a chance of having metal bloom (disintegration) down the road.This has happened to some museum quality ship models in the past because they are in sealed cases and subject to a very polluted atmosphere)
If there is any shine on the metal left by the lacquer I will deal with this using pastels.
__________________1gramps1

JohnReid
10-18-08, 06:11 PM
Selling culture
There is an interesting story in my local paper this morning concerning museums.
Evidently Montreal is hosting a forum of experts from around the world on how to make our museums more interesting places for the general public to visit.
It is an established fact that at the Louvre the average viewer at most spends 25 seconds looking at the Mona Lisa.(they actually have a name for it, "the Mona Lisa effect")Most other works of art get about 3 seconds each.
Whats wrong here? In the words of one expert "A museum must promote emotions ,not product. It must be a place where people can look,think and learn."Modern families want to escape stress and spend more time with each other and engaging the interest of an entire family,youngsters,teens and adults,is no small feat.
Museums must be entertaining and not just entertainment which can be a very fine line.Being entertaining is about engaging,it piques the imagination and challenges us.Entertainment is a diversion,something you do when you are bored.
Another expert says that museums should use their collections to tell multiple stories as another way to connect with the public.
Why did I find this article in the paper so interesting? Because this is what storyboard dioramas are all about.Engaging the individual viewer and the entire family,imagination,education,entertaining,telling stories,challenging .

I know not everyone's goal is to have their stuff in a museum,neither was it mine in the beginning but it just happened that way.Somewhere down the road this will probably happen to a lot of the hobby stuff being produced today.What we are doing now will someday be part of tomorrows heritage , a time when people actually took the time to do things by hand.

JohnReid
10-19-08, 12:42 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/118.jpg

JohnReid
10-19-08, 01:01 PM
I have glued down the fittings but have left the wires themselves unfinished until just before installation in case they are subject to loosening.Like I thought the turnbuckles are hardly noticeable.

DonnyW
10-19-08, 02:24 PM
Looks good John but I know how you feel. Sometimes the little details get lost in the bigger picture.. but its fun doing them at the time.. and as the modeller..thats what its about gringrin

JohnReid
10-22-08, 03:35 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/120.jpg

JohnReid
10-24-08, 05:00 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/122.jpg

Don Garrett
10-24-08, 06:22 PM
Fantastic!

JohnReid
10-24-08, 08:22 PM
Fire and Smoke damage.
Fire and smoke damaged engine with a little rust thrown in.
For the first time I tried using blackening patina on the metal.I put it on with an old soft brush and kept applying until I got the degree of darkening I wanted.Then I used a little thinned down raw umber acrylic here and there and finally some black and sienna rust pastels.Any final weathering will be completed upon installation of the engine in the fuselage.

JohnReid
10-24-08, 08:43 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/127.jpg

DonnyW
10-25-08, 03:42 AM
Awww ..you spoiled it John..you got oil on the engine .. no wait..its paint ?he1he

WOW that looks so realistic .. Im watching closely because I need to try your style some day 1thumbup1

JohnReid
10-25-08, 04:43 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/130.jpg

hot ford coupe
10-25-08, 04:58 PM
Fantastic weathering, John. Looks like that engine was ridden hard and put away wet.

JohnReid
10-25-08, 07:13 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/131.jpg

JohnReid
10-26-08, 01:25 PM
Lower wings.
Well now it is on to the lower wings.After their completion, I will begin the final weathering and fire damage on the fuselage, once the lower wings are in place.
Then it's back to the rear half of the fuselage and the tail assembly.
I can't tell you how much that I am enjoying this piece. It really is a challenging and fun thing to do,to let your imagination run wild.
I was always just a little unhappy about the weak storyline of the original diorama ,when it was just a self-contained box like structure.Now, that part of the diorama is just a tool to draw the viewer's attention ,so that I can tell the real story that is half hidden behind the open hangar door.
The real story here is only hinted at by the title "The Aces Who Never Were".There are so many stories out there about the well known national heroes that through fate or just plain luck made it to center stage.I want my diorama to tell a different story, using the well known dog-man relationship as a vehicle to tell the deeper story,of not just the dogs loss but the loss off all those who lost their loved ones to war.
All those young lives never realized by circumstances beyond their control.I think that theirs is a story worth telling.

JohnReid
10-26-08, 07:42 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/134.jpg

JohnReid
10-27-08, 11:58 AM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/images/imported/2008/10/136.jpg

JohnReid
10-27-08, 12:18 PM
Decisions and compromises.....
The rad piping helps to support the upper wing to the fuselage and the skid base,this was necessary due to the soft nature of the N struts metal.Unfortunately the piping somehow got reversed and I only noticed this after gluing it in.If it wasn't for the support factor,I could just break the pipes and call it accident damage.I have two options here,redo the whole thing and take a chance of screwing it up or strategically placing some debris and hide the whole thing. I think that I will chose the latter.
Why do I bother to point these screw-ups out? because in the beginning of this thread I committed to showing this build as it really is,warts and all.