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View Full Version : Clerget 9B Rotary Engine. 1/8th. Hasagawa.



Dr Dave
06-12-11, 11:23 PM
Hello guys, I'm not building an airplane but I am building an engine from one. I've been interested in radial engines for a while now and have been enjoying all the Sopwith Camel builds on here. After a long time hesitating, I finally gave in and bought the Clerget 9B 1/8th scale engine kit from Hasagawa, the one that comes with the Sopwith Camel kit.

There's not a lot of parts in the kit and all are very well molded with almost no flashing, in particular the cooling fins on all the cylinder halves are perfect and I didn't have to do any cleaning up at all (except for the sprue attachments), just glue them together.

Being a very basic engine, it doesn't require heaps of super detailing as with modern car and bike engines, but there is the opportunity to add extra detail by using real nuts and bolts (and this one is really going to clean out my stocks), and some hand made valve springs.

Dr Dave
06-13-11, 01:23 AM
I started with the easy bit first. Assemble all the cylinders and a few other smaller sub assemblies. Once this was done I thought I had better remove the molded nuts and bolts and drill out the holes for the new ones before I spray the primer on.

Out comes all the little nuts, bolts and washers to be sorted, counted and put with the appropriate parts. I'll do the crank case later, for now I'll just start with a few bits.

Dr Dave
06-13-11, 03:37 AM
A couple of coats of primer can dry in the sun while I go to the hobby shop for more paints.

Dr Dave
07-01-11, 10:41 PM
At last I can get back to doing a bit more on the Clerget. The last 2 weeks has been so busy at work, driving 1000 Klm's a day.

I airbrushed Tamiya chrome silver enamel on the cylinders and put them in the sun to dry while I got to work on the crankcase. There's an awful lot of holes to drill out here but I got it done and then had to rest my eyes, all I could see was circles1what1

On the rear of the crankcase are some molded lines and pins to which the spark plug wires attach. I'm guessing these lines are a continuation of the wires down into the crankcase so I removed the lines and pins so I can replace them with real wire.

Once all this was done, the primer was sprayed on.

Dr Dave
07-02-11, 05:21 AM
When the primer on the crankcase had dried enough I mixed up some Mr.MetalColor Alminume (that's what it says on the jar) and airbrushed it on. It came up quite nice, but then I put a cylinder against it to see how it looked only to find there was no difference between the two colors. This is not what I wanted. I'm looking for bunch of slightly varying shades of bare metal and also a few contrasting colors so it's not just all silver.

I thought maybe a light misting of something else over the top might make that subtle difference visible. Tamiya titanium gold acrylic looked like it might do the job, but would the acrylic and the enamel react with each other? Only one way to find out, so I mixed some and sprayed a very light mist on one cylinder to see if anything was going to happen. Nothing happened, but I couldn't see any change in shade or color. On with another coat, and just the slightest change, maybe. Another coat just to be sure and that's what I wanted. Some of the reference photos I've scraped up show the cylinders have a faint yellowing to them and it appealed to my eye. The 3rd photo here shows the gold a lot darker than it actually is next to the silver. It might blend in better when more parts are added.

Dr Dave
07-02-11, 10:13 AM
The main shaft has had a couple of color changes also. The two castings were too dark done in Tamiya gunmetal acrylic so I added a drop of Tamiya chrome silver acrylic to the gunmetal and now itís a strange dark silver. The shaft itself received a coat of Alclad stainless steel but again I wasnít happy. Boy, am I fussy or what? Then I remembered I had a piece of adhesive vinyl film I picked up from a sign writer ages ago. It looks like brushed stainless, so I cut out a piece to fit around the shaft, and look at that, what a beauty.

The Clerget has 2 magnetosí to supply current for the spark and they are attached to the main shaft behind the engine. My references show a variety of colors for the magnetoís so Iím just going with my own color scheme on this one. The main bodies were airbrushed with Tamiya gloss black enamel with highlights of Alclad polished brass airbrushed next, and then Mr.MetalColor copper was brushed by hand, finishing with another coat of gloss black brushed by hand for a different texture.

Then I added the nuts, bolts, washers and screws. Wow, doesnít that bring it to life.

Dr Dave
07-08-11, 07:11 AM
I've taken a big leap forward here to do something different to fiddly little nuts & bolts. I felt like doing the display base for the engine to sit on so set to work cutting out a piece of craft board to fit into an 8"x10" picture frame. I've removed the glass but kept the backing board to support the piece I've just cut.

While at the hardware shop looking for something totally unrelated I just happened to notice this iron-on veneer edging for cupboards. It's just the thing for the job.It's real Jarrah from Western Australia in a 5mtr roll, 22mm wide.

I cut pieces to fit diagonally and then cut each one down the centre to make them 11mm wide. I then sanded all the edges so the joins between the planks would be noticeable and proceeded to iron them all into place one at a time. The joins were mostly pretty tight with only a few grooves so I opened up the grooves a bit more by carefully drawing a razor saw through the joins between each plank. The planks were all trimmed and sanded around the edge of the board and then a light sanding over the entire surface has it ready for a couple of coats of gloss varnish, which I haven't done yet.

Dr Dave
07-08-11, 09:23 AM
While the gloss varnish is drying on the timber floor boards I've had an attempt at bending up an exhaust valve spring. Not too bad for the first one, and looks much better than the plastic molded one. Only 8 more to go, and then 9 intake valve springs, which will be easier as they are just small coils.

Dr Dave
07-09-11, 08:36 PM
Here is a very simple little coil spring for the intake valve made by winding some soft wire around the 1mm stainless wire I'm using for the valve stems, and cutting it off at the right length. I hope the final outcome will be worth all the effort I'm putting in now.

Dr Dave
07-09-11, 10:03 PM
I've started adding some nuts & bolts to the crank case and it's looking better now, but it sure is using up the hardware supplies pretty quick when everything is in multiples of 9. On the air intake tubes alone there will be 36 x .8mm bolts & washers and 18 x .8mm nuts. In a few areas I'm a couple of bolts short so they will have to wait till the new stocks arrive from ScaleHardware, which may take a while as the post office tells me the volcanic ash cloud has upset the flow of international mail.

Dr Dave
07-10-11, 04:10 AM
The first cylinder has received its new valve springs, and compared to the molded springs in the kit, I think it will be well worth the effort of all that wire bending, don't you?

Dr Dave
08-29-11, 06:32 AM
Thanks Dan for fixing things up so I can finish this tread.

After all the valve springs were fitted to the cylinders it was spark plug time. They are all molded in pairs, 2 plugs per cylinder. I thought about making spark plugs but opted out in the end and just painted the plastic ones in the kit.

The instructions say to use silk thread for spark plug leads but that wouldn't look right, also, in some of my reference photos it looks like the leads are bare wire. I tried a few different ways of doing the leads. First I was going to do full insulated with just the ends bared but it wasn't working right, so then I tried removing the insulation and putting on a piece of heat shrink but it wouldn't shrink enough before it started to melt. It seemed the bare wire was the way to go, so I cut 18 pieces, stripped the insulation off and twisted each one nice and tight, then put a loop in one end of each one to go on the spark plugs.

To attach them I put the loop over the spark plug and using tweezers, gave the wire a little twist to tighten the loop around the plug. Then I glued the wire to the post and pushed the end into the hole near the main shaft. I cut small pieces of black vinyl tubing and put one on each wire to be the crimps that hold the wire on the plug.

BrassBuilder
08-29-11, 09:29 AM
WOW! That looks great! 1nworthy1

Dr Dave
09-02-11, 09:01 AM
Thanks Mike. I've been having a ball doing this one. I keep telling myself I'm going to build an easy one straight from the box, but so far I haven't been able to break the addiction to adding extra stuff and changing things around.

Here I have attached the part that holds the main shaft, (to me it's kinda like a bell housing so that's what I've been calling it), to the stand that supports the engine. I used no glue for this, the nuts & bolts hold it together.
I didn't bother removing the ejector pin marks as the flywheel and crank case cover the whole thing. Those little lumps in there keep the fly wheel away from the bell housing so the engine can rotate freely.

Dr Dave
09-02-11, 10:06 PM
On the back of the bell housing is this tube that I think may be an oil line or fuel line, I'm not really sure what it's for. Anyway, whatever it is I've chopped it up and replaced some of it with vinyl tube and some copper wire for strength and support, and 2 stainless nuts.

Dr Dave
09-03-11, 06:43 PM
While I was doing the oil lines I also made new magneto leads. I used some very fine red insulated wire (nice and bright against the other colours), cut up some small pieces of vinyl tube and aluminium tube, 1 brass screw, and used the centre "V" of the original part. Turned out much better than the kit part. With that done, it's time to glue the main shaft into the bell housing.

xken
09-04-11, 07:40 AM
Great job on this build! Here is a reference cross section drawing for reference. If you need any other details let me know I have a reproduction of the original engine manual.

Keep up the great work! Ken1gramps1

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/648/medium/Clerget_9Z_100hp_Side_X.jpg

Dr Dave
09-10-11, 06:36 AM
Thankyou Ken. That original manual might have been handy when I started the build, but then again, I'm kinda glad I didn't know you had it or I would probably be making all the internal stuff1shocking1. There wasn't much I really needed to know as I'm only replacing what's already in the kit, but I would like to know what metals the crank case and cylinders are made of. If I think of anything else I'll ask. Thanks Ken.

Here is the main part of the engine together. Still to go are the intake pipes and all the push rods.

Until the next update, happy modelling.
Dave.

Dr Dave
09-10-11, 06:33 PM
This is the first test fit of the incomplete engine on the main shaft. I had the crank case on there very early in the build to check that all was well before adding the cylinders. There's not much clearance between the spark plug wires and the bell housing bolts but it works fine.

The front cover is airbrushed in Alclad Polished Brass and, with the stainless bolts and washers, really stands out against all that silver. I've found, through previous testing, that this Alclad has the same finish no matter what base coat it goes over. I tried straight primer, gloss black, and gloss white base coats, and got the same result on all 3. That was after a couple of good coats, although with just a light coat you can see a slight difference.

Dave.

Dr Dave
09-16-11, 10:26 PM
The air intake pipes have a flange glued to each end. The crank case end is fine, but the cylinder end is not quite right. They have molded the bolt heads on one side and the nuts on the other side of a singe flat piece of plastic with no discerning line between the two halves of the flange. I took this as an opportunity to add a bit more. I used .5mm styrene sheet to cut out the missing flanges.

More holes drilled and moldings removed, a coat of primer and then a base coat of chrome silver before airbrushing the new flanges with the same titanium gold as on the cylinders. I also gave the intake pipes a base coat of chrome silver followed by a top coat of MrMetalcolor Copper. It's the first time I've used this paint through an airbrush and I was surprised to see the finished appearance very powdery. On the paint jar it says to give it a light buff after it has dried, so I did this and found that it came up with a very nice shine.

The last photo shows the difference between the airbrush finish on the 2 pipes in the middle, and the polished finish on the 2 outside pipes.

Dr Dave
09-24-11, 07:09 PM
The intake pipes can now be fitted to the engine. I'm glad I made those extra flanges, they really make a difference to the appearance of the attachment points on the heads.

Dr Dave
10-07-11, 10:36 AM
Now to dress up the front of the engine with some nice brass push rods. Yes, real brass, supplied in the kit, and hand polished with Autosol Metal Polish and an old T-shirt. My reference photos show a nut on every push rod at the cam end, so I picked out 18 brass nuts and drilled them out to fit on the rods. I'm guessing they might be adjusting nuts. Ken, would you be able to find them in that manual you have please?

Supplied in the kit are 36 push rod end caps. My ref pics show these on the crank case (they look like lifters), but not on the rocker ends, so I didn't put them on the rocker ends. I replaced them with aluminium tube cut to 2mm lengths which slip over the brass rod and attach to the rocker. The 18 caps to be used have been treated with a dose of MGM chrome powder over a gloss black base.

Dr Dave
10-07-11, 08:48 PM
The engine is now finished and ready to be mounted on the main shaft. A retaining plate is glued to the end of the shaft to keep the engine in place and the engine rotates around the shaft. Some of my reference pics have cut off propellers mounted to the engines and I thought this looked pretty good, a nice finishing touch, so I ordered a wooden prop to give my engine that same finishing touch.

Dr Dave
10-15-11, 01:22 AM
Almost finished, but not quite done yet. The in-completion of the model (with a bit of a hurry up at the end) happened to be just in time for the annual QMHE (http://www.qmhe.com/) held in Brisbane on the weekend of August 20th & 21st. The wooden prop I had been waiting 3 weeks for arrived on the 22nd 1no1. Just in time all right! I added the last little bit to it at 5am on the 20th, and with no prop, packed all the models in the car and headed off for the 2 hour drive to the show.

Dr Dave
10-16-11, 01:35 AM
Now that the show is over I don't have to hurry getting the prop on. To scale, the propeller is a bit smaller than it should be, but it does the job ok. I started by holding the prop in front of the engine to gauge a good length to cut it off at, taking into consideration the curve of the edges. After cutting the ends off I sanded the clear coating, the printing, and the sharp edges back till it was smooth and clean.

Next step was to make the hub plates and get out some more nuts & bolts. A piece of sheet styrene from the scrap box received lots of circle cutting to make the plates, then the plates were used as templates to drill the bolt holes through the prop. I have a piece of fibre glass rod left over from kite making long ago which donated one of its ends to reinforce the attachment of the prop to the front of the engine. The optical bolts I'm using here have star heads which I file down to make hex heads and then spin the flat top of the head on some fine sandpaper to give it a turned appearance.

I brush painted the hub plates with Tamiya chrome silver acrylic and let the plates and the brush half dry, then I lightly brushed again round the plates like they were disk brakes. The effect is a very subtle circular grain in the imitation metal surface but with no texture. The prop received 4 coats of clear varnish and sun dried. The finished prop turned out better than I had hoped.

xken
10-16-11, 07:16 AM
Great engine build and detailing. When you get some extra time here is a link to carving a prop that I put together awhile back.
Ken Foran : Hand Carved Props - How To (http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Foran/Hand_Carved_Props/index.html)What will be your next project?

Keep up the great work you are doing! 1thumbup1

Ken1gramps1

Dr Dave
10-21-11, 09:18 PM
Thankyou very much Ken. That's a great tutorial on how to make a prop. If I can track down the Le Rohne engine kit that matches this Clerget I will seriously consider giving the hand carving a go, those laminated props look pretty nice. I'm hoping both engines will fit on this 8x10 inch base.

My next project Ken? I don't really know. I'm having a bit of a scratch through a few kits and looking at 3 re-builds at the moment but don't know what to do 1no1. I can also see that unfinished 1/6 Suzuki Katana on the shelf. Maybe I'll go and mow the grass and think about it later.

PS. I received a gold medal at the QMHE competition for this engine.

modelmaker
12-02-11, 08:47 PM
Beautiiful Work Dave and a well deserved gold win at the QMHE. I've been following this build over on LSP you had a great following over there.

Sean

ipcress
01-01-12, 05:18 PM
Gorgeous build- congratulations. I'll be looking closely at what you've done when I'm making mine!

Tony

Dougritt
01-02-12, 01:48 AM
Congratulations Dave on a spectacular display model. The paintwork is first class!
Thanks for sharing the play-by-play.


Doug

Dr Dave
01-08-12, 06:07 AM
Beautiiful Work Dave and a well deserved gold win at the QMHE. I've been following this build over on LSP you had a great following over there.

Sean

Thankyou Sean. I was a bit disappointed that I didn't have it completely finished in time for the show, but it seems that had no affect on the outcome. I only put it in the show for fun, so the win was a big surprise.
I'm guessing alot of the guys over at LSP may not visit us here, so I thought I'd go over there and give them a look. Boy oh boy, there's some detail freaks over there too.

Dr Dave
01-08-12, 06:18 AM
Gorgeous build- congratulations. I'll be looking closely at what you've done when I'm making mine!

Tony

Thankyou Tony. Feel free to copy what ever you want, and if I can help with anything at all, don't hesitate to ask or send PM. I'm still trying to find the matching Le Rohne engine to put on the base with this one, but no luck at all yet 1no1

Dr Dave
01-08-12, 06:30 AM
Congratulations Dave on a spectacular display model. The paintwork is first class!
Thanks for sharing the play-by-play.


Doug

Thankyou Doug. I enjoy sharing and helping where and when I can. The shinny paint is easy, but now I've set myself the big challenge of a heavily weathered cattle truck in an outback dio.