View Full Version : Ferrari 512 S Analog

12-14-19, 11:38 PM

Here I go again. Mucking it up with my crudities amongst such exquisite builds!

It looks kind of clunky now, but I am now in the process of mocking up what will hopefully be a shorter build than the last one. Experience and a little less complex (I hope) but even to get to this point has not been easy. In my case this is sort of a monocoque riding on another chassis and it has to function a bit like a supporting skeleton. I had a McAllistar Nissan GTP 90 body that I modified to be more like a Kremer K8 Porsche roadster. It worked pretty well on my old chassis but doesn't fit the new one and so I started in thinking what could I do to modify it further and more to my liking. I love this particular version of the 1970 Ferrari 512 S so I thought I'd give it a go since the body is not worth anything to anybody but me. I've gathered lots of images, including blue prints and such and went about mapping things and pondering how I will do it. The body will be a mix of the front portion of the polycarbonate body and fabricated out of various things for the remaining 2/3's. I'll have to paint the outer side of the poly body so that the finish will be even in texture and shine between the mixed materials and I really do not want to try and remove the paint underneath.

Here's the aspiration and inspiration.

And a video that got me thinking what a cool machine this really is!

Here's the original body from a while back.


Now the perspiration as a result of the inspiration. Here's the mocked up monocoque chassis out of corrugated sign materials. The end of an event or political season results in a lot of free sign board. I might as well use it. The rocker rails are pvc molding. I had hoped to do the whole thing in folded aluminum sheet but it proved too flimsy and my ability to cut the thicker stuff is limited since I do not have access to either a band saw with metal blade or a water jet. It's just me an my hand tools. This will do until I discover better stuff.

And the mocked up monocoque chassis on the actual chassis. Because of my battery mounting position, I might have to make it left hand drive which is not typical of this type of car but I'm not trying to be exact.

Here are two shots of the mocked up body. Lots of cutting and replacing of the sides and figuring out how to make the rear clamshell into one piece of body work. In short, lots of work to do!


I've done more work since these shots and am still figuring out a few things about materials and pieces I've gathered to do this. I end up building certain portions a couple of times until I am satisfied enough to move on. It's a lot of mocking things up, and standing back and looking at it for a few days or more and the back half of this one is already proving to be quite a challenge so I'll see where this goes.

12-20-19, 12:06 AM
Once again, I ask your indulgence for my crude little project!

I finally cut away the center section of the body and started experimenting with materials as to what will work best for the body behind the front clamshell. My original vision was for it to be aluminum for everything but the rear fenders but styrene is so much easier to work with and so I will run with that...for now. The original rear fenders were spliced together pieces of RC plane wheel fairings/wheel pants. Great Planes makes styrene versions in two pieces and they come in a variety of sizes if you can still find them (they quit making this particular product a while ago.) Smaller versions made up the flares on my Jag project. The ones I found for this one are much larger - 11.5" long. I finally decided to yous to top side of the pieces because I don't want to have to fill seams and sand that much. The reinforcement and filler adds weight and I'm trying to keep that down as much as I can. I have to work one side and shape it and figure out where to cut to get the best shape. Once I figure out one side I can work the other. Slow progress, but progress nonetheless.

I took shots along with my "blueprints" to give an idea of where I am going with this.

My version might have slightly larger hips than the original.

The door has the radiator intake slope as part of its shape so this is a mock up out of aluminum flashing to help me get and idea of size and fit. It will actually have to be 2 pieces to make the full shape and I will use thicker aluminum sheet or styrene for the complete piece.

I would love to have wheels and tires closer to the original but will work with what I have. This back end will be rather complicated and I still haven't determined how I will join it all into one piece. That will come to me in time Lord willing.

12-29-19, 01:06 AM
Here I go again. Nothing to see here. Just some guy who got obsessed with trying to recreate a Ferrari 512 S body when his time might be better spent elsewhere.

Fashioning the back end is surprisingly difficult in part because I'm approximating everything and my chassis is used for my other bodies so there are compromises. Ideally I should be using smaller front wheels and a slightly longer wheelbase so the challenge comes in making is still look nearly as sleek as the real thing - a sort of "Does this outfit make me look fat?" deal where a tweak here and there can still capture the right proportions visually even if they aren't exactly to scale. Another challenge is that the dash is really supposed to be further under the front windshield which in my case means splitting the front bulkhead so that is an engineering problem for the future to work out. My focus is to sort out the back end so here's the latest developments. The sides are now aluminum as planned and I will work on attaching the rear clamshell to them at sometime in the not too distant future. I traced the rear blueprint pic onto some opaque plastic sheet and that is very helpful because I can see contact points with the rear fenders and see where I might need to re-shape the bottom part of the fenders at the very back. The slope of the rear window actually ends just aft of the rear axle so I moved my temporary shell back a bit to see the proportions. So much tape holding this together. The green masking tape doesn't quite stick as well so I am using gaffers tape - a tape used in theatrical productions which has very good adhesion but leaves no residue. That's the black tape you see. I mocked up some of the rear winglets but and far from settled on how this will go because the real ones are pretty complex and sort of emerge out of the rear fenders in a more organic manner than I can currently produce. Here's the shots so far. i will be off for a bit as I have other things that need my attention, but I wanted to get as much of the rear sorted as possible while I have a moment or two.






01-04-20, 11:50 AM
Repurposing things is what seems to work for me - hence the moniker JunkGTZ since most of mine start as wrecks, discards, clearance, discontinued, or things not worth much to anybody. It certainly keeps the cost down for me. I do not have the skills or tools to scratch build at the level of the static model threads (but they do inspire me) but I enjoy the building process, especially because I'm largely improvising to accomplish what I see in my head and my drawings. I'm never sure about how I will pull these builds off and I learn - especially from the failures.

Here's the latest. Still rough fitting, but refining as I go and getting closer to fleshed out. The rear clamshell will be all styrene with an aluminum sheet underneath to tie it all together. Screws into the sheet and then glueing all the seams of the styrene pieces and filling them. The rear canopy will be styrene too but aluminum flashing is in it's place at the moment. It cuts and shapes easily and can serve as a template for the styrene. This is turning out to be a bit more complicated than planned, but I am happy with the progress. I've got a busy couple of weeks ahead, and then the start of school and will have to lay off a bit and wait until later in February or March to do much.



The rear plate is cut but needs lots of refinement and a few more things added to it.

The proportions are starting to get closer to looking right. I will thin the monocoque sills by 1/8" and the side panel by the same amount to visually lengthen things a little. It's a little heavy looking in the mid section from a side view.

01-28-20, 12:20 AM
I had a bit of a challenge fleshing out details on the rear spoiler because all my shots and drawings don't really show that in the best detail so I went to Youtube and found a number of shots in frames of paddock videos from this past year's Monza Historics and I paused and grabbed screen shots of some of the details I needed to render the rear spoiler and flaps and then went to work. It was hit or miss but I think I got something very workable.

The real deal

My mock ups.


I'm at the point where I have to clean my table up so I can use my measurement map and rework the structure that serves as the backbone of the body. I am going to remake it for a final version that will allow me to more accurately proportion and size things. I need to narrow it slightly and lower the bulkheads slightly and workout the front bulkhead clearance issue with the battery. The table is a mess right now so I'll have to grab and evening and clean up rather than build anymore.

This is a double post. Didn't get to the table yet but will soon.

Worked on the rear clamshell a little more today. I added the bottom to the very back. I have no smaller model or photos of that part to go on so I am just making something that works with the chassis I built. I also started gluing a few things in place because it's time to move on from green tape. I cut the radiator exit vents and the real car they are louvered but I am not sure if I will do that. I can certainly do a screen piece by cutting a negative of the hole and pressing it into the hole with the screen but I might try a louvered cover on it. I just have to figure out how to make it.

The rear vents aft of the canopy are smaller than on the real car because I have a mounting brace for the rear part of the body. Compromises have to be made to fit and existing chassis.

It's slowly taking shape.

An overhead view. Most of my work ahead will be the middle section - doors and sides too will all need adjustments once I make some changes underneath.

The rear clamshell from the underside. I still have some of the aluminum sheet in there, but hope to replace it with styrene. Once the body is finished, only the mid- section (doors, sides, and roll bar arch) will be aluminum.

I'm at the point in this build where I know this can be done and it will come out pretty well, but it is also the point where the tediousness of the work is kicking in. There are so many things left to do just with fitting and fixing parts in a more permanent manner let alone the paint prep. Many people on this site do much more complex work than mine and I am curious as to how far into the process it happens to any of you, assuming it happens to nearly everyone given the number of unfinished build threads. I'm guessing the ones who complete a project are ones who do not like unfinished business and press on.

02-23-20, 12:12 AM
The elves were busy. Built a new skeleton underneath out of black corrugated plastic with some styrene reinforcements because the screws used to hold some of the parts together will not hold well enough without it. It more or less serves as a laminate to stiffen the pieces. I also narrowed it a bit to capture a little more of the stance of the real car which tends to look like the rear tires are just a little too wide - very aggressive. I also lowered the sides by 1/8" and will adjust the doors accordingly. I continued working on the back clamshell and tried my hand at making the back window and intake section out of styrene. It turned out better than expected, but there is still more work to be done. I also put in the backing where the rear lights will go. It is impossible for me to make this exactly to scale dimensions of the real car without building a separate chassis and I am not going to do that, so compromises have to come here and there, but I am pleased it is capturing some of the overall shape and stance of the real car. I will paint the skeleton all black and then finalize it gluing the pieces together with epoxy and making sure it is square. That has proved to be one of the single biggest challenges - getting both sides exactly even - in part because the wheel pants used for the back fenders are not perfectly even. We'll make it work!

Frontward overhead view.

The new window and intake vents.

The light slots with their backing.

Rearward overhead view.

02-23-20, 08:51 AM
I love this. You don't need to have high tech and fancy tools to build a great scratch project.

02-24-20, 01:21 PM
I love this. You don't need to have high tech and fancy tools to build a great scratch project.

Thank you. I subscribe to the premise of doing what I can with what I have and have fun doing it.

03-28-20, 05:17 PM
So the build continues, albeit slower than I'd like. The Pandemic has me home and getting ready to teach online in lieu of face to face classes, but I'm trying to squeeze in some time to get to the point of finishing building various pieces so I can primer it and fill joints of which there are many. I worked on the rear end as it is not completely flat and the air vents have some indentation on the real car. I put a lip around the rear plate but will not do the indents. The lip greatly improved the look of the rear plate. I also mocked up tail lights using reflective sign vinyl for the lenses as that is all I have.

The rear plate update

The real deal.

I also began making the doors on this and adjusting the side panels. There is a bit of adjustment to take place and I might have to make this one over (I hope not). I also made a new windshield hoop, moved it back a bit and then wrapped the hoop with a styrene band which stiffens the aluminum. It's not permanently installed yet as the doors have to be more finished to move forward w that.

The door in rough form.

The side profile is starting to look more like I intended. Still a long way to go.

04-08-20, 09:30 PM
Some more rough fitting and mocking up. I made the right side door, and remade the hoop over the roll bar. I also made a makeshift windshield to get a better sense of the overall shape. In addition, I worked on the rear spoiler to even things out. That's been a great challenge with this build. It is more sculpting and eyeballing than recreating an exact replica. It's form and function wrapped in an adaptation to fit a pre-existing chassis and it has turned out to be far more difficult than any build I've done previous.





07-29-20, 01:34 PM
Made some progress of late. I had lost some momentum and even considered giving up on this and the other projects i have because tires and wheels are becoming harder to find for this, but I managed to find some passable substitutes and that helped. I just didn't want to invest too much energy into these builds if I eventually ran into trouble finding tires to run them. HPI stopped making these size wheels and tires (Super RS4/Superten size) a long while ago and they aren't showing up on eBay too often anymore and most are cracked and worn - or - priced through the roof. Can't do that.

Puttied up the rear clamshell and then threw a coat of primer as it shows me the spots that still need to be worked on when my sense of touch doesn't pick that up. I thought this build would be so much easier than the Jag but it has turned out to be harder. I press on.





07-29-20, 09:01 PM
Hello there!

Beautiful build!

Have you ever thought to make molds of the tires you like, and casting your own? It's not hard to do, and a nice array of hardness's are available as pourable urethane.

You could, with two molds (front and rear), make a series of sets, with different durometers, some better suited to hard smooth surfaces, and some more squishy, to better traverse a gravel or sandy patch.

Just a thought, as I hate to see a fine model put out to pasture, prematurely.

07-29-20, 09:36 PM
Hello there!

Beautiful build!

Have you ever thought to make molds of the tires you like, and casting your own? It's not hard to do, and a nice array of hardness's are available as pourable urethane.

You could, with two molds (front and rear), make a series of sets, with different durometers, some better suited to hard smooth surfaces, and some more squishy, to better traverse a gravel or sandy patch.

Just a thought, as I hate to see a fine model put out to pasture, prematurely.

Thank you. My concern with molding my own is getting them perfectly round and ideally I'd love to make some rims more true to the original but that involves things like 3D printing and takes me deeper than I can afford to go both in terms of time and money. Someday maybe I will get there! In the meantime I will keep my eyes open to possible alternatives such as those I found recently.

08-20-20, 01:14 AM
I tried to make some progress before school restarted. This has become so much more involved than I imagined and there are no blue prints of any kind as far as construction blueprints goes. I sanded and painted the front masking off the reduced lights of the head lamps. I cleaned up the vents over the front wheels as well and then shot it with primer to see what other trimming or shaping I needed to do.

One of the things that I was not liking was that the car looked like it was a little to short and too tall in the greenhouse so the remedy was to cut and lower the whole thing by nearly a 1/4" - no small feat given how far I was into this, but I wanted a lower sleeker look and lengthening things is not an option.

Then I decided to remake the side pods in styrene thinking I could bond things together giving more stiffness to the chassis and so that took a bit of doing too, but the results are more to my liking. With the start of the semester and such it will be pretty slow progress but we will see how far we get. Lord willing, I will finish fabricating and be able to focus on painting issues toward the end of the semester.






09-02-20, 08:44 PM
Trying to work away at all the green tape and finish the side pods. I remade them in styrene because I decided that bondin the various pieces together would work better if they were styrene rather than the mix of aluminum and plastic and that would give me a stiffer body which I really needed to have in this thing so they are now all bonded together as one piece. I also got rid of the plastic molding and replaced that with a bent piece of flat aluminum. It was going to be silver anyway and this saves some weight and adds rigidity so win/win. In the side pods are two coffin shaped radiators so I made some facsimiles out of sign board, some mesh, and some aluminum rails. Not fancy by any means as they are not really visible so exact detail is not a deal breaker here. Painted them and fitted them. All good. I filled and sanded and the side pods and threw a coat of primer on them because my sense of touch is not the best and primer shows up the rough spots and makes the smoothing process easier. School is in session and because we are a mix of online and will begin face to face next week, I'm pretty busy and expect to get busier as the semester goes on so my goal was to finish the major build stuff and get some primer on it by the end of summer. I'm not quite there yet but happy to have gotten at least this far. It's getting nearer to what I envision in my head. Lord willing, I hope to finish it off by the end of the year.

This is a very detailed Amalgam model of the car showing the rear radiators and engine bay. Would love to have done more like this but it is way above my skill level!

My crude radiators prior to paint.

Painted radiators and unpainted side pods.

Put it all together and it starts to look more....well, put together.

These tail lights are mock ups and won't be on the finished model.

The side view sits a little lower now. I rounded the wheel arches in the rear too. I cannot make it exact, but I'm going for what works and what looks good to my eye.

09-12-20, 03:26 PM
Made a few small adjustments and then took it out for a run in he driveway. Lots of fun. Can't wait to get it finished in red, but there's lots of prep work to go for that, and I am not finished with the building part of it. I still have to make the exhaust pipes and figure out some facsimile of the but end of the gear box which is exposed on the short tail version of this car. I cut slots in the nose to more or less mimic the real deal but I won't be putting the fig lamps in the center as on the real car. I worked on tidying up the hoop of the rear clamshell as well as adding the depressions of the rear heat vents. I also cleaned up the rear wheel wells. Finally I decided to enlarge the rear fins more in proportion to the real car and it served to make it look a bit longer which is good because I'm actually working this with a smaller than to scale wheel base on this. I feel like the proportions are about as good as I can get them. Again, lots more to do. Next up is to finish off the windshield hoop so it will hold the windscreen. Also next up is to make the driver. On the Jag I have "Guillermo Del Torso" since he's cut off at the hips. This one will just be the top of the chest and two arms so I'll nick name him something like "Armand Chester." There is not a lot of room in there.




09-12-20, 08:36 PM
he who has the coolest toys, wins!!

09-14-20, 12:38 PM
he who has the coolest toys, wins!!

Thanks! I think that is the distinction with my builds. I've never been able to sink a lot of coin into any hobby I've had, and the beginnings of my RC hobby came from a very nice toy-class Nikko that my wife got on clearance for me because I couldn't walk through the mall and not stop in the hobby shop. (I tried to keep my dreweling to a minimum, but it was obvious to her!) It was indeed a cool toy, but it was a buggy and I ended up modifying it to onroad because I love sports cars, GT's and the like. I learned a few things and got a little help from a friend as well as picked up some salvage gear and now I am into a hobby class car on a budget. It is still in essence - a toy, but it's sparked my imagination and so here I am. It's as close to owning a Ferrari as I will ever come as is the Jag is as close to owning one of those. Thankfully my brother in law owns one of both and I've gotten to drive two of the Ferrari's he's owned. I'm good with that!

09-27-20, 01:05 AM
Tail lights are a bit of a challenge for this. I have nothing ready made and my access to a hobby shop is limited as the local one closed and the nearest on the list is 75 miles away, the next one 96 mlles away and no time for a road trip. I found some expired over the counter tablets at home that had a pill bubble just the right size. So I tried to think of ways to tint them. I tried coloring them in with markers and filling with a clear glue. The red was okay but the orange was not dark enough. So I decided to see if I could color the clear glue with food coloring. It is Duco cement and it took the color but clotted up a bit. Final trial was using clear 5 minute epoxy. It took the color and stayed the same consistency so the next challenge was to get it in the pill bubble. We had some empty syringes from dog medication and I loaded one up with the orange and one up with the red. Filled the bubbles with no trouble and let them harden. The trim bezels were the next challenge. I went with a technique I used previously. Hammered some solder wire flat and straightened it. Then cut to the proper length and wrapped it around a tube of the same size and made sure it was as round as possible. Before shaping it I sanded it with very fine sandpaper to shine it up and get rid of any hammer marks. What you see is what I got. They let light through pretty well. The red lenses are perhaps too dark so I'll have to search for similar size pill bubbles and make another pair, but it will be easier this next time.



09-27-20, 01:44 AM

In addition to pill bubbles, some craft stores sell "Google Eyes" to glue on to things to make faces, like on dolls, . . . Also? Kleen Klay, or other craft clays, (not water based ceramic), can be rolled out and depressions made into them, for casting your resin into? (I learned this one from a pattern maker who worked at Oakley Eyewear!!)

Mixing colors is a little tricky, you probably realized that X amount of tinted resin looks darker if its twice as thick? Like in the syringe? The "Trick" is to test while your mixing in the color, drops about the size that you'll be wanting, placed on a white background should allow you to judge better how saturated the color is?

I hope you have a large black-top to play/race on!! Beautiful model!!

09-28-20, 12:18 PM
Thanks very much. I never thought of making molds from craft clay. I might give that one a try. Indeed, the color issue was tricky as the so called "yellow" food coloring is actually orange and you make food items yellow by using very little of it. My first test were way too dark and the current red lights are a bit too dark for me but I had no more pill bubbles - until I found a couple more strays of the same otc meds in a basket at home so I am going to try to lighten the color and pour some new red lenses. I may do some Kraft Klay molds just to give it a try too. Thanks for the tip.

10-11-20, 01:24 AM
Thanks! I need the encouragement! This thing still needs lots of work. Mocked up a rear view mirror and the intake stacks and coolant overflow tank (at least that's what I think it is), and started mocking up the driver. Because of the battery placement my driver has to be on the left side which is a compromise since the other bodies I've built are left hand drive too.


The real deal

Not sure as to why the intake trumpets are clear on some cars of this period. I remember seeing for the first time watching the movie, Lemans w Steve McQueen. I don't think it is to see out the back because there is so little visibility to begin with. I am guessing it is actually a safety thing as in if there is a fire in the engine compartment they will see that more easily. Anybody have any ideas?

Driver and mirror - a work in progress.

10-15-20, 07:35 PM
very beauty project!

10-17-20, 04:10 PM
very beauty project!

Thanks. I'm having fun with it and hope to finish all the build work and fabrication soon - perhaps the end of November. The body has some rough places that need to be worked on and that will take a good bit of time once the other bits are built.

10-29-20, 07:23 PM
The back end of this car presents some challenges since it is open and my particular chassis doesn't afford much room back there either. On the real car the exhaust pipes drape neatly over the rear suspension on either side of the transmission and the pipes closest to the transmission actually end so as to almost not be seen at all. The only pipes visible are the headers from the back half of the engine and they end just even with the body work. That was not going to be easy to do and I decided I liked having 2 and 2 coming out each side so I deviated. Because of the cramped space making tubed pipes turned out too difficult because I have to make a right angle bend in a small space so the tubes either split or crimped - that despite using annealed brass with sand inside so I went with automotive vacuum hose with a piece of aluminum wire inside. The aluminum wire is for wire ties on chain link fencing and runs about $5.50 a pack. Plenty left over, but way cheaper than trying to buy that wire from an industrial supply place which only sells it in big spools.


The transmission cap was made from varied thickness styrene and is a grand approximation. The pipes were painted and fixed to a piece of square tubing and were attached to an L shaped piece of clear plastic along with the transmission end cap so it looks like it's floating similar to the real car.


My render is not so elegant as the real thing - but hey it is what it is. Fun and not too complicated.




10-29-20, 09:13 PM
Very "Cool!"

02-21-21, 01:34 AM
I'm exercising a fair amount of freedom with this build because I don't have all the skills necessary to fabricate an exact scale replica, and this particular Ferrari had a number of variations just with the S version (short tail) alone not to mention the Coda Lunga (long tail) version. In addition to that my chassis is not purpose built for this car, but rather is used for several different styles of body shells so accommodations have to be made. I've been off of this for a few months as I started chasing another build and got side tracked and then my school year started and time to work on this is more limited so I decided to push to finish this one and leave the other which is much earlier on in the process.

I wanted to cover the suspension that shows under the front clamshell and took a plastic eyeglass case and formed a cover. I had done a smaller one but was not happy with it so I went to work on a better version. I also made holes in the clamshell for the fuel caps which will be painted silver. Those are screw caps from the hardware store. Then I went to work on fender mounted rear view mirrors which appear on some versions of the 512S as well as the mirror at the top of the wind screen. The one on top is made from some flattened aluminum tubing and a marker cap. The fender mounted mirrors are made from flattened tubing,a 2 nub Lego and a USB cable cap. There is also a 3 mm threaded rod going from the fender up into the mirror housing. I also made new aluminum pieces for the tub sides because the previous ones were not exactly fitting right. I am nearing the end of fabricating body hardware and will work on a limited interior, the driver, and then hopefully finish work to get the body ready for painting.






04-10-21, 12:39 PM
Greetings and thanks for putting up with my relatively crude construction!

I went to work on making a driver for this. The challenges in this is that I'm in between scales. It's not fully 1/8 and not 1/10 - more like 1/9 so its' "Good luck finding stuff in that scale." When I was doing my Jag project I came a cross these Nascar mini helmets called Bobble Dobble and they were a really good size. I found some on ebay and bought a lot sale of 3 helmets and a standup figure.

The starting point. A Bobble Dobble.


I coupled that with some foam-wrapped wire-core curlers my daughter had from doing her hair for high school theatre productions. The hands were made from aluminum flashing so they could be molded to grip the steering wheel. Those were coated with sticky foam. Since the curlers are foam and would be painted, I used a latex primer on them and then acrylic craft paint. A chest had to be formed from the same aluminum sheet and foam tubing was used to create a neck for the driver. Then I coated the aluminum body with gaffer's tape, a fabric tape that adheres well but can be removed and replaced without destroying the chest if I don't set it right. In addition, I needed seat belts so I used the plastic coated wire closer ties from bagged coffee. They form easily and take paint pretty well.

Below is the driver I made for my Jag and he's got more body to him since he sits higher over the electronics. I named him Guillermo Del Torso as a spoof on the filmaker's name (Guillermo Del Toro).


So here is the blow by blow photos of his counterpart. The challenge being that there is really no room for a torso in the Ferrari build. I'm toying with the name Armand Shulterkopf (German: Shoulderhead) or Armando Spalla (Italian: shoulder)

The hands. Crude but gets the job done.


The rough figure without the body.


The assembly with the "seat" and more fully formed driver.


Some paint.


Installed and ready to race.


What's wrong with this picture? The driver is on the wrong side. Another of the many compromises required in building a body for an existing RC chassis. My battery pack has to sit on its side because my chassis is somewhat narrow and the electronics and steering servo mechanism also dictated the battery location. Since my first body build was a lefthand drive Corvette, followed by the Jag build I decided to make that adjustment.

04-11-21, 03:05 AM
Simple and very effective modeling.

In your computer, where you process the photographs you upload. See if you can "flip" an image? I've done this to correct the same issue! Easier than rebuilding! gringrin

04-12-21, 09:03 AM
When I had more time to build I loved exploring the hardware store, my leftover kit parts, the recycling bin, even the kitchen junk drawer for a piece that could be reworked into a small vintage car part. I'm enjoying watching you doing the same. I once even found a perfect match for a missing Promocom 1/8 Ferrari 126 C2 kit wheel nut in a hardware store bin of "lamp repair parts". The color and thread were even correct!

Keep enjoying building for your own eye and don't obsess about the compromises of scale and detail of this beautiful model. It's a lot of fun watching your process and progress.

04-12-21, 01:04 PM
Simple and very effective modeling.

In your computer, where you process the photographs you upload. See if you can "flip" an image? I've done this to correct the same issue! Easier than rebuilding! gringrin

Believe me, I thought about that.

When I had more time to build I loved exploring the hardware store, my leftover kit parts, the recycling bin, even the kitchen junk drawer for a piece that could be reworked into a small vintage car part. I'm enjoying watching you doing the same. I once even found a perfect match for a missing Promocom 1/8 Ferrari 126 C2 kit wheel nut in a hardware store bin of "lamp repair parts". The color and thread were even correct!

Keep enjoying building for your own eye and don't obsess about the compromises of scale and detail of this beautiful model. It's a lot of fun watching your process and progress.

I used to live in Illinois near a store called American Science and Surplus and loved that place for just that reason. Lots of interesting parts and pieces.


Just recently I came to the realization that I've been mulling over building home built RC cars and bodies for nearly 30 years and have collected lots of little pieces, some of which I am using. That said, now I am avoiding those places because I need to get rid of some stuff!

04-12-21, 04:19 PM
Yep! -for me it was Industrial Liquidators, Cal-Aero, and a paradise called "Old Tools"

04-12-21, 05:46 PM
Yep! -for me it was Industrial Liquidators, Cal-Aero, and a paradise called "Old Tools"

American Science and Surplus is a fun store and I used to love going there with my sons. There were two of those large long sleeved rubber gloves from the side of one of those clear cases that one handles hazardous materials in just reaching out to pull you in! I would love to visit the places you mentioned.

04-12-21, 06:13 PM
Sorry, they're all gone.

In the 70's and 80's as industries were leaving California, there was a glut of these shops, going to auctions and paying pennies on the pound for hardware, fixtures, old tools, . . . -sometimes they didn't know what they had. Top of the line stuff sometimes went for nothing! -But the local supply of these items has either dried up, or gone online.

There were somethings that I had passed on, that I regret. And of course a few too many odd bits, that I have been unloading these last few years. Can't hold on to everything!

03-03-22, 09:21 PM
Haven't given up on this one. Just got distracted for a bit. That tends to happen when I get a bit bogged down in the last stretch. I saw these Kyosho Scorpion wheels and they were fairly inexpensive and looked more like the Ferrari style rims (Campagnolo?) found on many of their race vehicles so I bought them and had to make some adjustments to make them fit - mostly to the back side of the rims. The rears have a deeper offset that the HPI Superstar wheels I have and so the stance is right at the max width of the body. The fronts are buggy fronts so they are about 2/3 the width of the rears but still look good to my eye. I contemplated trying to widen them but that would be a big job and not all that necessary. I will pull the tires back off, clean the rims and shoot them with a couple coats of gold. In addition to the wheels, I made inserts for the rear view mirrors, new side glass, and am mapping out the work left to prep the body for painting. The semester has been busy and that won't likely happen until early summer, but I would like to finish this one. It's taken a longer time than I expected but I really love this particular Ferrari racer and look forward to finishing it, Lord willing.