View Full Version : A Model A Model, (finally!)

06-09-17, 12:26 AM
Mieaux vaut tard que jamais! (Better late than never!)

Well, its been a very long time since I last finished a model! The Beatles were still hoped to reunite! and Nixon was just about to be toppled!
(Also, this is my first scratch built model!)

Both of the above statements are true, however, I have studied model making my whole life, and been around it and model makers, since I was just a little Donald. I was the manager of Paul Freiler's Historical Models for half my life, at the time I left it. I then did a too short stint making models for the movies. I worked in Northrops display model group for a few months, and I have been working in the concept car field for nineteen years!

I am afraid that I might have been "Hijacking" some of your threads, I do go on and on! but never of course was that my intent, and if I have offended anyone? please accept my apologies!

All that said, here I go!http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4388.JPG

06-09-17, 12:44 AM
Please be patient with me, I am very much a . . ., novice puts it mildly when it comes to using a computer!
I have several photos to post at this time, and I hope they will be sufficient for now.


06-09-17, 12:49 AM
The rails dimensions were determined with actual measurements, as I discovered that all the general arrangement drawings were too general!

The rails were and will be formed using a H. F. bending brake, and some adjustment with a hammer upon a steel buck.

06-09-17, 12:53 AM


Cuts were made to ease the forming of the "Horns", and to accommodate the limits of the bending brake. These will be soldered whole when I'm sure its safe to proceed.

06-09-17, 03:09 AM
In the foreground is a bronze rail. The cut-out at the "horn" was in anticipation that this would give me the radius (with some hammering) and allow me to later solder on another piece with a simple bend. I'm not sure which way is "Best" I've set out to do both.

The steel buck is made from 1/2" thick CRS and its radi duplicate those on the inside surface of an actual chassis rail. Always remembering to make allowances of part thickness.

The hammers are the pride of my collection, the round and highly polished one is an early PLOMB, made here in Los Angeles, and the other is a Paschall, made here in Long Beach! (A very long time ago!)

06-09-17, 05:54 AM
Some precision here! Nice work. I must admit that I generally start with a dimension and a photo and make it up (several times, on some occasions) as I go along.
I love the phrase "adjust with a hammer". Did you know that in the UK a hammer is sometimes known as an "American screwdriver"gringrin

I must say that your planishing hammers are awesome. Much too good to be used with screws...

06-09-17, 12:03 PM
Thank you Jo! Your my first reply!

"American Screwdriver"? he1he Well, we "Mericans" do have a long legacy of using tools inappropriately. I see it every day, and try to educate, but?
I have regretted letting out tools, many times!

On to your project -I think that the hydraulic shocks on the single seater, were probably the same as are on the speed-six? Sorry, I don't have any help to offer regarding the rear belly pan. I do have the Bonhams catalogs from the Daniels auction but there was not anything new. Searching online, I've seen some very early pictures, (one presented backwards) from the Getty Images archive, and rereading all my clippings, its suggested that the blue seen in parts of the cockpit, is the blue that the exterior was painted. A bit darker than I had imagined.

Very Good Luck to you on your build! And thank you for your attention to my simple start!

Please, call me Don


06-18-17, 03:33 AM
All day long to design and create this fixture. After fold forming the rails I noticed that their vertical sides were "puffy". I've made this to maintain the correct dimensions while I iron out my problems! The plate can be assembled to work right or left. And later will help me to register drilling templates.

There were 30+ bodies styles offered for the Model A, I may want to do others, or a "Hot Rod"!? http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4466.JPG

06-18-17, 03:36 AM
The fixture plate itself is made of 3/8" aluminum and 1/8" steel plate. The "Patches" are 3/8" square key-stock, that I've used to true up a wandering line.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4455.JPG

06-18-17, 09:36 PM
http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4516.JPG Once I have the fixture plate, I can start to 'Iron Out" my rails. Allowing the brass only to move where I need it to move. I had originally thought to put it through a rolling mill, and designed it to do that, but it was far more expedient to just pick up some wood and a hammer, to do the initial work, and then to use my jewelers burnishers to assure myself that the radius is constant. Finally 220 sandpaper and a HARD block, followed with 220 grit and a FIRM sanding block.

06-20-17, 08:30 PM
I was not intending to start with the interior, but ?

If, you are going to build completely from scratch? Then I guess you first have to measure everything!

For everything that you "Scratch-builders" have shown us, there must be at least double that in time and maybe failures, that you have not mentioned!


06-20-17, 08:33 PM
Measurements from the actual article is always best. Then of course scaling down. Transfer to the pattern making material of your choice. And go for it!http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4443.JPG

06-20-17, 08:38 PM
This is a beginning step in producing my instrument cluster. I'm thinking of going down two different paths. This will be the more conventional one. Rubber pad press the shell. Draw up the engraved details of the original, and photo-etch those. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4611.JPG

06-20-17, 08:52 PM
The other route I'm thinking of taking, (I don't have anything to show right now, and I'm not going to show you my experiments!)

The other route is to ELECTRO-FORM, the shell. This is simple to do but it does require the same materials and tools used in electroplating.

A pattern,(mine will be Ren board, and Evergreen styrene), is molded in RTV, a "Casting" of RTV is made into that first mold, and onto the second RTV a thick-ish layer of wax is applied. The "A" surface of this wax matrix is dusted with graphite powder, (Copper is possibly better?) And that is "Plated!"
-A slow process to assure a good plating, rinse, dry, and dissolve the wax away if it doesn't cooperate!

But, this, will have to be squeezed into my schedule!http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4635.JPG

06-21-17, 01:24 AM
What metal are you going to electro form? I used it as a technique years ago to make RF tight covers for Avionics. They were in Nickel, with a .001" Copper flash first. You could form completely in copper, it's easier and the anode doesn't deteriorate.

06-21-17, 02:56 AM
Hi Jo!

Copper it is! (Or will be!) -I have done some tests a year or two ago, A toy Ironman head. But it looks pretty sorry, I did not have my power supply properly set and, it worked, but the surface had an unwanted texture. -I will be plating from the A surface back, with better control. (I've done LOTS of experiments over the years!) -And I have made, and continue to make more mistakes than anyone I know!! -Don

06-21-17, 03:07 AM

06-21-17, 03:13 AM
On a better note! The copper pressing I started earlier today has turned out good enough to start planning the art work for photo-etching.

And I might as well start to flesh it out with a fuel gauge, ignition switch, amps, and speedometer.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4645.JPG

06-21-17, 04:38 AM
So.... press and then etch, or etch and press? I think I'd prefer the first, to avoid distortion.

06-21-17, 11:16 AM
Done pressing, etch eventually. -Don

06-25-17, 05:21 AM
Most of a day to measure actual cross member, draw up plans, cut, saw, drill, file and assemble.
Tomorrow, make paper template, cut sheet stock and create the center cross member of my models chassis.


06-25-17, 05:22 AM

06-26-17, 02:06 AM
Still enjoying the learning curve, it is certainly one thing to "Know how its done, how other people have done it." and then of course to actually do it myself!

All five of the major components of the Model A chassis are/were stamped out from single pieces/sheets of steel.(2000 a day!!) And in some places the radi are huge! (relatively speaking!) So, I'm trying to recreate that in my model.

I had thought that the center cross was going to be easy, it will probably remain the easiest of all the chassis parts, but, what a work-out! I had to use my lucky vise, file and several hammers!

This is not a finished part of course, but just the condition I felt I could stop at for the day. (For anyone thinking of starting to work in metal, I really do recommend copper! Once its annealed it very pliable and relatively slow to work harden.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4677.JPG

06-26-17, 02:22 AM
This is one continuous piece of brass with no joins. Later as I clean it up some, I hope that will become self-evident. It required re-annealing many times as my hammering upon it, work hardened the metal quickly. I have checked of couse that it fits in the chassis side rails, (it does).

I thought that this was to be the easiest of the chassis components. We'll see. The front cross-member is going to be trick, and the rear most one is very big.


06-27-17, 12:49 AM
To who ever might read this: Please look away, do not look at these last two photos I've posted!

A long time ago a very good friend known for his immaculate scratch-built models of experimental aircraft, was showing myself and a mutual friend his latest project. It was of the then revolutionary X-29, forward swept wings . . . , and one of the intakes was way out of place! -but he had been working fast and furious, and somehow never noticed. -Until now, I could never figure how he could be blind to something I saw as huge.


The brass part of the thing I photographed is too short! My hammer-form is correct, but the brass thing should extend all the way to the end!


I'll post a correction in a few days. (Our forum does not do revisions, but its a way of life for me!)


Scott H.
06-27-17, 06:14 AM
Practice makes perfect.1confused1 I guess that's what mistakes are for, so we can learn. Keep up the great work Don.

06-27-17, 10:15 AM

06-27-17, 10:17 AM
​Thanks Scott! -Don

06-30-17, 12:33 AM
Well? This is better! I made the time to fashion some proper tools. Made sure to cut my stock to the correct dimensions, and can move on to the rear cross member. -There are still some holes to drill and a little filing, but for the most part I'm happy and I think I'll create all the chassis components before I start drilling.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4701.JPG

06-30-17, 12:35 AM

07-04-17, 02:53 AM
Spent a day measuring rear cross-member, always discovering details, plan, cut stock, drill,. . .sand and file, assemble.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4745.JPG

07-04-17, 03:05 AM
I have mentioned already that the Model A's chassis members are each made of single pieces pressed and forged into final shape, so in my limited way I'm trying to replicate that in my model. (After I get under way with the chassis, I intend to try pressing these parts. -I'll have to make conforming dies.) (If for no other reason than a learning experience.)(And? it will either not work or it should be easier and perhaps better?)http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4733.JPG

07-04-17, 03:07 AM
Hammering requires frequent annealing. I wish I had a knife makers forge.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4739.JPG

07-04-17, 03:09 AM
Not pretty, not yet. -But very strong!http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4747.JPG

07-04-17, 03:14 AM
Not finished, but good enough for today. This rear cross-member and the center one are relatively easy, just a lot of elbow grease!
The hardest one will be the front one, in cross section it looks like an "S" on its side.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4748.JPG

07-04-17, 08:20 PM
Before continuing to work the brass to my pattern, I wanted to get rid of any excess stock that might be fighting me.

-So? I reached for a tool that I've had for years, and as I was about to use it, I remembered that I have always thought to introduce this simple accessory to others. Its called the "Pillar Tool", in polite society, or on the floor the young men refer to it as the "P***S of DOOM"! -A unique looking tool, and very handy.

The "Pillar Tool" is a support for work being cut on a bandsaw. It works as a lower guide, and supports the weight of whatever your cutting, and allows you to better and more quietly follow the contours of whatever your cutting. Often while trying to cut plexiglass, fiberglass, carbon fiber, or sheet metal, if your just working on the table supplied with your bandsaw, the material will pinch the blade, or because its not supported it may bounce or vibrate, and it is often loud.

The "Pillar Tool" my friend will help alleviate all those conditions. I've seen them made out of PVC pipe, wood, and mine is steel. -The "Pillar Tool"http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/952/IMG_4750.JPG

07-04-17, 08:21 PM
This is how to set one up.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/952/IMG_4752.JPG

07-04-17, 08:23 PM
This is a typical situation with forming sheet metal, at some point you'll need trim off the excess.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/952/IMG_4753.JPG

07-04-17, 08:25 PM
My parts scale flange is an irregular 1/4", the green tape is 1/4".http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/952/IMG_4755.JPG

07-04-17, 08:33 PM
As with all power tools, you should not operate them or certainly not attempt any technique that you do not fully understand.

You are responsible for your own safety!

Do not wear gloves while working with any power saw! And be fore warned that as you cut through any metal it can get very hot! (Copper, Brass, Aluminum, Steel, Bronze, Tin plate, Nickle, pretty much any metal!)

This assumes that you have a bandsaw. -If you do, and if you have to trim anything that has "Hills and Valleys" you might consider making one of these for yourself. (I have two.)http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/952/IMG_4758.JPG

07-05-17, 02:51 AM
Being honest with myself, I could have been gentler with my hammering! I now have surfaces that are concave where they should be convex, and I've left way too many tool marks, some deep, all over the place!

Borrowing a technique from silversmiths, Repousse', a way of temporarily bonding malleable metal sheet, in pitch, I hope to solve most of my problems! -OR?

Or, if this fails, well it probably won't be a complete failure, I'll still have learned something new, and I can always be generous with the body primer later on!http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4772.JPG

07-05-17, 02:56 AM
This is a much slower process, with ample time to think. -Melt the pitch, shmush the brass into the surface, let it cool, work the areas in question, reheat the brass, remove, clean it, inspect and re-anneal, re-shmush, repeat, . . .http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4776.JPG

07-05-17, 03:01 AM
We'll see? Maybe I should have made conforming dies? I have a big arbor press or the hydraulic? (I do prefer working with my hands, and this is something new for me.) And this has been a long holiday weekend! Happy 4th!!http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4781.JPG

07-09-17, 11:51 PM
Its been a very hot and muggy weekend, well spent in the garage! And these are not finished pieces, but they're good enough for now. I plan to hard solder the chassis as a whole eventually, so growing the flange in a few places and some body filler, both with soft solder, will have to wait.

Both parts will need some fixing and drilling, and I will probably make a few more of each one, now that I have learned to be a little gentler with my tools.


Roger Zimmermann
07-12-17, 09:09 AM
Don, I just discovered your thread. Making a model at 1:4 scale is something I could not do; that requires much larger tools and SPACE! About your errors: everybody is doing some, me too...
What is that orange/red material and what it's purpose? I tried to understand between the lines, without much success!

07-12-17, 11:26 AM
Welcome home! Roger!

The "Red Stuff" is called pitch. It is also seen as a greenish/dark grey. And is used by silversmiths to hold sheet stock
while working the surface in a process known as Repousse' and Chasing, or in German: Metall-Treiben. -I've employed it here to undo some of the work I did in haste. (It allowed me to recreate domed surfaces that I had made concave, and to help reduce the effect of too vigorous hammering.) Its a "second operation" technique that often is the only way to "save" a part that's gone wrong.

In addition to the pitch, you can also use the firm but not the hard plasticine non-drying clays offered in most art supply shops. Historically panel-smiths had used lead! (Do not use Lead!)(Some still do! despite the hazard of exposure, it is toxic and accumulative!)

Think of it as a "Giving anvil/Vise" kind of thing? -That's removable.


Roger Zimmermann
07-12-17, 11:39 AM
Thanks for the explanation, Don. It seems that somebody explained me that material years ago; can be used to silver solder 2 difficult to held parts if I'm right.

07-13-17, 12:03 AM

If I were to recommend a safe and easy way to hold parts together, I'd recommend DELFT clay! -Its the stuff that jewelers use to do "Fine" sand castings. Basically a very fine mesh sand with a lot of clay, and some oil/wax? (I'm not sure what this last component is), as a binder. The stuff can be pressed around anything, or you can make a small container of it, loosely packed, push your objects in as far as you think necessary, and then firmly pack the sand to seal the deal. It can handle the heat of molten bronze, copper, brass, or your favorite, aluminum. It will barely notice silver soldering.

If your interested, then I recommend buying from a supplier of jewelry tools and such. Be sure to buy the DELFT clay, here in the states we also have a PETROleum based, or BONDed, sandy clay, which works just as well, is cheaper, but it gives off a LOT of smoke and refinery fumes! It also "burns" in the areas that contact the molten metal, slowly using up your stock. (Oh! If you like to experiment? do not mix the two! Bad Idea!)

For holding things to be soldered either would do, as well as traditional "Green Sand", I've also cut up the cheap soldering boards to use as fixtures and I wonder about metal shot? Not lead of course, but aluminum, copper, and steel are available as "shot" or filler, and a shallow bowl might be the ticket?

I do go on and on? -Don

PS: The pitch would not be my first choice, it is a little messy to work with, and might start to move as it warmed up. It eventually will combust if a flame sits on it too long!

Roger Zimmermann
07-13-17, 02:12 AM
Thanks Don for the detailed explanation. As my model is slowly coming to an end (at least as parts fabrication) and I don't intend to begin another one, I will pass on that material. I'm sure life would be easier with it; however, I managed to solder what I had, sometimes with hit and miss.

07-13-17, 02:19 AM
Beethoven created nine symphonies.

Roger Zimmermann
07-13-17, 02:57 AM
You cannot compare...I will no more begin a 10 years project which I'm not sure to be able to finish. Small items, why not (I cannot stay doing nothing)...

07-13-17, 11:13 AM
My apologies! I am being selfish.

07-19-17, 11:38 AM
THANK YOU! EGON! (Not wanting to "Hijack" another's thread) WOW! -Its always exciting to discover such Great Work! Laurent Pierson, of Austrailia? or New Zealand? -The little bug logo is a Weta. -He may be associated with the special-effects company of that name? or perhaps its just an identity that modelers that far south are adapting? Excellent work! -Its going to take a few days to absorb all that info. He's forming his nose panel over what look to me to be plastic sheet called SINTRA, and his engine blocks are cast or metal SLA? (Its always fun to do the forensic model thing!) Thank you again Egon!

07-20-17, 01:42 AM
​I don't know why I went in that direction? -He's French! -AND very GOOD!

08-09-17, 10:59 AM
Hello, I've been away from my bench tending to other things, but I hope to make some progress this week with the front cross member.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/nineteenthirtyone.jpg

08-09-17, 11:02 AM
This is the prototype and again it is a continuous part stamped as a whole. It has many different radi, some quite large. and is "S" shape in cross section.

08-09-17, 11:04 AM
Some views of the prototype.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/ffgghfhfghfgttttddgggdg.jpg http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/ddfdfdfdfbdffdb.jpg

08-09-17, 11:10 AM
My intention is to make a pattern of the "A" surface, and then, with a few twists, make two conforming dies out of a low temperature melting metal. And using those dies in my press, create my needed front cross member.

Initial pattern making starts with slightly oversize blocks.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/954/IMG_4841.JPG

08-09-17, 11:11 AM

My day job has me staying later in the day and staying a little later off the clock to avoid our horrible traffic, I have started to work bit by bit on those things that I can do, bit by bit.

-for example, a new pattern for my model's chassis, front cross-member. A new hammer-form.


Made of oak, steel and aluminum, it should hold up to the hammering. This is not the final form, but with some simple additions and fine tuning, I should be able to use it soon.

I will try Copper first, as it is the easier to form, and I'm sure to get a usable part, but I want to also do it in Brass (or try to), so the whole chassis would be in Brass. (under the eventual painting who will care?)

08-11-17, 12:34 AM
Tankerman! Chris-

Thank you for the online source you introduced on Thierry's thread! They have the rivets I'm going to need in the not too far future! Thanks!


08-20-17, 05:16 AM
Nothing new to post, yet, -I am working on a pattern to then create conforming dies in low temperature melting metal, then to try pressing a front
cross-member, -and- I've been making some progress of working drawings for the Alfa engine. Interpreting drawing versus photos . . .

-and now HAPPY BIRTHDAY Mr. Zimmermann!

Roger Zimmermann
08-20-17, 05:50 AM
Thanks Don, I appreciate your message!

01-03-18, 04:34 PM
Though this is not a technique that I will be using on my model A, I have the day off and rather than make a sandwich, I thought I'd play!

This is a quicky! Using the Teflon tape, wound around an X-Acto knife handle (8mm), the wire is the sort sold for flower arranging, and brushing/dabbing the Plasti-Dip with acid brushes, the potential is seen.

Again, thanks to Scott and Dan for sharing! - this idea for me was counter-intuitive, what do I know!!??


01-03-18, 04:45 PM
I think that I over worked the brushing and would do better to apply quickly and uniformly, and not work it too long as the material skins over rapidly. Probably a natural bristle rather than synthetic and definitely not coarse, as the acid brushes are. Clean up is with Naptha but I doubt that any small brush would ever be the same after using it with this stuff! and so expect to sacrifice a few camel hairs in the making of this model!

Curing time is 4 hours, so I guess I have time for lunch!


01-03-18, 08:47 PM
Well? a few hours and two tacos later? -It is not a final finished part, but it was easy and fast, and demonstrates the potential.

Since I had wrapped the Teflon over the wire, which was itself wrapped around the knife handle, I was able to slide the whole thing off, and then gently pull the wire out. -The Teflon does seem to be bonded in place. While in the process of doing this I thought of many revisions, but for now I'll make some notes and move on. -Again cool idea! Thanks Scott and Dan!


01-03-18, 09:19 PM
Because I could remove the wire, I can easily trim to length with a knife or scissors. If you need the wire or spring to be contained within the "Hose" you'll have to figure that into your design.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/data/952/IMG_5219_2_.JPG

Roger Zimmermann
01-04-18, 03:49 AM
Don, it seems that you will act as the one who try the other's ideas! That hose is nice; certainly a something to try when I will need that hose. Thanks for showing your experimnt.

01-04-18, 11:38 AM
Hello Roger

I love discovery! I do experiments all the time, and most just go into my "museum". Using Teflon tape as a barrier? -It has potential for other projects for me.

I read a lot! I sketch out ideas constantly, and I believe that everyone has something to teach, I believe that I can learn something from everyone. -Sometimes I do go too long into planning before doing, and at my "day job" I've been told that I sometimes "ask a lot of questions, and that I worry a lot!"

Yesterday, was for fun and to learn something new. The "hose" I made was not to any specific design obviously, it was just a generic "hose". But while learning something new to me, other ideas started to occur to me. (I have 2 pages of drawings).

When, I use this new to me technique, I have several considerations to incorporate to it, creating sleeves at the ends, how better to remove the wire, what could be coiled around the mandrel besides wire, making transitions between round section to square, . . .

Remember I was the one who was thinking to cut a wax form on the lathe!(which does have a some merits, but is not quick!)(and or a bar of soap) This Teflon tape was a slap my head moment! I had to try it, especially since I had all the materials and time. Beyond the Ford Model A, I would like to do some more contemporary cars, a Countach comes to mind, and how to make hoses and air ducts was a concern.

as always! Thank You for all that you show and share!


Roger Zimmermann
01-04-18, 12:35 PM
In the vacation house I have a roll of Teflon tape. I tried this afternoon to apply some paint on it; it seems that the paint is bonding well. When it's completely dry, I will have the definitive answer.
Years ago, I had a product called "Coltogom", available in black and white. With that paste, I coud to weatherstrips for the Toronado, using parafine (wax) as base. I did also the mat which was factory installed inder the brake and gas pedals. I intend to use the same procedure (if that product is still available) for the belts.

02-14-18, 11:13 AM
Suggested from another thread, this fine book from Phil Jensen,


06-23-18, 03:36 AM
This week while looking into a new to me material for my day job, I came across a new to me technique!

Again, something that I would never have thought of, but when it was explained? - I could sort-of believe it.

Adding a solvent to RTV to greatly increase it ability to shrink.

Specifically adding 30% Odorless Mineral Spirits into RTV just before pouring a mold. The theory is that though this is a significant percentage, it still allows the RTV to cure, maintain cohesion, and over the course of one week, expel the solvent, and thereby reduce its volume.

The video was posted by Alumalite, the manufacturer of hobby RTVs and casting resins, and of course it was made using their own product.

Well? I happened to have two of their small kits, enough to do the job, and anyway, I had been wondering how to create a 1/4th scale Quail radiator mascot.

So? Last night I did as instructed. The OMS, does not easily fold in, but with some patience, I was able to make a homogenous blend. A few hours ago I opened my mold box, and cut open the RTV. (it feels like old Jello, and looks like strawberry yogurt.) -and now to wait for a week, as it shrinks, approximately 15%. (according to the video)



06-23-18, 03:47 AM
The Solvent RTV mix, should shrink about 15%, cast a part in "Fast-Cast", which itself will shrink about 3%, and repeat the process 5 times? -I hope to end up with a reduced copy of the actual article.

Then to cast it in wax, for a go at lost wax casting, or make a mold of high-temp. RTV, and cast a pewter model? . . . -I don't know. -I just like playing around.

There are a few castables available, that shrink, but most of them are alginates, and they can be delicate, (prone to tearing,) and warp / distort, while drying.

I don't know? We'll see. ( . . . it should only take a few weeks!)

Roger Zimmermann
06-23-18, 05:28 AM
There is all the time something "new" or a different method to reproduce part. I'm wondering if your experience will be positive...Anyway, thanks for the explanation!

06-24-18, 02:27 PM
Hello Roger!

We'll see? from the beginning I had been wondering how to make this mascot in 1/4th scale. I had thought to try to free-hand sculpt it, I am not a bad sculptor, but I think I'll save that as a last resort. Playing with clay, the PMC, Precious Metal Clay, is still an option, as it would give me some more experience in working with that material and technique. I could also set up, a built for the purpose, Pantograph, and do a mechanical reduction. (This has been my intent all along.) - We'll see.

This technique is new to me, and would never have crossed my mind. I have considerable experience with RTVs, but I mix by the book, and I now see that I have been missing the opportunity to experiment for years!

Again, we'll see. -it has been almost three days now and the mold has shrunk about 10% of the expected 15%. It is not shrinking in a uniform way at the moment, but the wall thicknesses vary greatly, and I hope that after a week the RTV will have stabilized and a uniform reduction will have been achieved.



The black line indicates the goal for this stage, of the 15%. (The corner cut-outs were my hasty solution to "bulking-up" the pour when I realized I had just barely enough RTV to capture my pattern. They indicate the bits of scrap pushed into the corners to raise the volume.)

07-01-18, 02:15 AM
Well? -it has been 8 days since I poured the RTV/OMS mold, and it has been shrinking. It has not been uniform in its shrinking, the fault is mine for not making any attempt to create a more constant wall thickness. I was concerned about being able to support an odd shape later, for pouring, (and I was anxious to "play").

In hind-sight I should have made the effort as it would have conserved on RTV, and given a fairer assessment of the progress.

It has shrunk about 7% (still hoping for 15%). But not uniformly. -I have cut into the larger mass, under the quail, between the wings, and there is a renewed (pleasant) smell of "odorless" mineral spirits. The surface of the RTV has been shrinking, and I hope that by increasing the surface area, I can improve on the results?

I can wait. In a few days, I'll try the waters and cast a part. -we'll see?


07-05-18, 10:17 AM
Almost there! This is the smaller half of my mold, and it has the thinner walls. It has only to shrink 2mm more to have achieved 15% shrinkage. The shrinkage on this half has been evening out. I did make many cuts into the outside surface to increase the surface area, and improve upon the de-gassing of the mineral spirits.

The other half continues to shrink as well, but not at the same rate.

Maybe another week?


Roger Zimmermann
07-05-18, 10:32 AM
What an expriment!

07-11-18, 02:46 AM
Well, the shrinkage seems to have leveled off at around 13%. -I poured a "fast cast" to better evaluate the progress, and to give myself something to work with. -I should have planned this better, but it turned out OK.

Besides a little clean up, I need to thicken the wings, and maybe a little enhancing of some details. -the wings will grow thinner with each shrinking, and would be as thin as a razor with the next casting, so, I have to bow to practicality over scale.

Researching this technique further, I have found out that besides Mineral Spirits, Naptha, Toluene, and Xylene can be used. -and that shrinkages as much as 75% may be possible! The important consideration is to measure volumes and not weight.


a 75% reduction could be achieved by mixing 1 part catalyzed RTV with 3 parts solvent.
60% reduction = 1 part catalyzed RTV with 2 parts solvent,
and, so on . . .

We'll see.

01-02-19, 02:56 AM
Well? It has been too long since I worked on anything! I still have a lot more molding and casting to do with my incredible shrinking quail, -But, today I re-started playing with my hydraulic press, and the pattern I made,?, I forget when I made that. -anyway, I have bought some Nickel-Silver, (Thank you Markus!)

And today I thought to play.

I purchased some sheet 0.032" or 0.813mm (hard). -In Copper or Aluminum, this thickness would not be an issue. But I didn't know about Nickel-Silver.

Also bought some bar stock, 1" and 1/2", and 1/8th" to play with on the lathe. I have ordered some "Dead soft" sheet, but it won't show for another week!

I was expecting to destroy my pattern, the Nickel-Silver seems so hard, I did my best to anneal carefully, and to my surprise! my plexi-glass pattern worked!

I am making another pattern out of Aluminum this time, and will try it with the "Dead-Soft" sheets when they show.

This first picture is of the Nickel-Silver's first pass through my press. I did anneal it before pressing, and before every other subsequent pressing, or hammering, or even cutting and grinding. I was a little paranoid about fatigue cracks.


This second picture was taken after several cycles of pressing, annealing, trimming, pressing , more annealing, and some hammering thrown in on a "as I guessed I needed to" basis.


And, this last picture is of the moment when a tortured piece of metal, starts to look like a usable part. An instrument cluster.


I still have a lot of fine tuning to do, but I can see the potential. I do recommend trying Nickel-Silver, or as Markus would say "German-Silver", -it polishes up very nicely, and it looks like Stainless Steel. (however, metalurgically speaking it should be considered a Brass, with 18% Nickel.) (The alloy that I have is #752.)

Drilling, sawing, soldering just like Brass. It should turn the same, we'll see.

I also bought an ingot of Zinc, and want to do some casting with sand, and investment type molds. -I thought of a technique a few years ago, that I never tried, and I found out recently, that "my" technique is actually used commercially!

2019 may be fun yet!

PS- I also need to look into etching and/or engraving this stuff! Ferric Chloride should work? (I never trust the word "should")

PPS- I did solder some bits together, soft solder with my resistance soldering unit, and then took them into work and sand-blasted them. The appearance is much like Cast Iron, or a work-aged Aluminum casting. I have only one grit at work, but different media, coarseness, will create different effects.

01-03-19, 03:18 AM
I have already started on a new and better pattern, this one out of Aluminum. I will change the orientation some, and I need to be a little more careful about some of the details.


The "Dead-Soft" sheets did show up today, and in addition to being "soft" they are also half the thickness of this, my first try. -The Nickle-Silver is a pretty good color match, for the original 1930/31 instrument cluster. (the original clusters were Nickle plated.


Looks like I'm going to be busy this weekend.

PS- Many years ago I picked up a small pantograph, and it is my hope that I will be able to use it with the actual article to engrave all those lines, and establish the locations of the holes. (my hope.)

PPS- I spent a good part of yesterday grinding and filing a new pattern. -and reworking my first pressing. Becoming more confident in the use and abuse of Nickel Silver. I do recommend its use. If the subject your modeling originally had a Stainless Steel or Nickel Plated radiator, try working in Nickle Silver.


The above is one piece of Nickle Silver, formed just as the prototype article was. - Presented here after having been annealed, formed, trimmed, annealed, trimmed, ground, filed, annealed, many, many tines. To see how far I could go, I took it up to a high polish, then decided to rework some surfaces and contours, imbedding it into my pitch bowl, reworking it, and repeating the whole process yet again. Stopping short of a high polish.

Again, this stuff should be called White Brass, as it is an alloy of Copper 60%, Zinc 20%, and Nickle 20%. (actually this alloy is 65/17/18) -and it has all the characteristics of Brass. Drill, file, sand, turn and soldering the same. Polishes up very easily, and then looks like Stainless Steel, or a Nickle Plating.

01-09-19, 02:28 AM
Every lunch break this week, I have been slowly dialing in my new pattern. -a lot of subtle curves. Trying to keep everything balanced.



Initially blocked out with a band-saw, a little help from my Dremel tool, and then just a lot of rolled up sandpaper, and elbow grease.

I intend to use this pattern with the "dead soft" Nickle-Silver sheets, make several pressings, experiment with etching, and engraving. - I'll have to assemble my pantograph first, actually I have to find all the parts to the pantograph, and assemble it and then figure out how to make it do what I want!

01-13-19, 04:26 AM
Started late today, finished my aluminum pattern, annealed and pressed the thinner sheet stock, trimmed one too short, but it's all a learning process.



A very different experience working with this thinner stock. I had a less delicate feel with my first attempt.


A cold and wet day, and someone nearby must have startled a skunk! Unpleasant to be working out back so I spent most of the day rereading my books.



02-03-19, 03:03 PM
Trying always to improve on my techniques, and to think about what I'm doing, I created a recessed area in a portable "pedestal" Allowing me to drop my forming tool into it to use as a hammer-form.



A scrap of Copper was wrapped around the end of my clamp to help protect the Nickle-Silver surface.


After much annealing, and returning to the press, and more annealing, and hammering with the use of wood "caulking tools"

02-13-19, 03:33 AM
Making time after work to torture some Copper.

Not pretty, but I am learning!

Learning as I go. How better to hold the work while I pound on it. Choice of materials for my punches, the values of wood versus metal. -And of that, the benefits of different shapes, and how to apply the strikes. All the time developing a better sense for when to anneal.



Roger is probably right, in suggesting to me that I'll have to make this part out of several pieces, soldered together. -I had wanted to duplicate the chassis components as much like the actual parts. Being all stamped from a single piece of steel. -And maybe I will continue with my original plan to make a pair of conforming dies, and try to press a part or two?

Roger Zimmermann
02-13-19, 04:00 AM
Don, don't forget that a part which seems to be done in one shoot could in fact be made with 2 or 3 different dies. Just look at some vintage car factory videos; it's for me always interesting to see how many steps are needed to stamp a roof or a door skin. Take for example the real front fender from the Mark II: it's not done in one piece but with at least 2!
For your tentative, I would prefer a metal die vs a wood one. The big problem is that to fabricate the die in metal is requiring a disproportional amount of work and resources for just one part.
My idea by modelling: do it as simple as you can, but it must be good looking after all needed steps!

02-13-19, 09:51 AM
Thanks Roger,

Your right of course. This piece is my second try, and may still be made usable. "Micro-metalsmithing", or to be fair, in my case "mini-metalsmithing" (your the "micro-metalsmith!) is a self taught activity. I can honestly say that every session at it, I am learning.

The simplest way to make this part would be to make the pattern and vacuum form a sheet of styrene. -I could be done, and then maybe use that plastic part to pour an Epoxy "Steel" die, pour two, both sides, forming a set, and then try my luck at the hydraulic press? I have some epoxy somewhere, not sure of its shelf life?

Lots to learn!

PS- I could also create sand molds and pour a low temperature metal, again creating conforming dies. OR, -I could lay up a fiber-glass part, but I wouldn't learn from that, I already know how to lay up fiber-glass. I also have concerns about longevity with articles made with resins.

02-14-19, 10:28 AM
Reading up on silversmithing, the shape I'm trying to make is called ANTICLASTIC. Big word. It is considered to be one of the harder shapes to make, and this chassis cross member has two of them side by side. -So?- I think that if I divide the form in two I will be better able to make something useful.

Every night after my day job, I clear my desk and do battle. Lots of hammering, a little learning, bit of a work-out, and I have been making notes of what is working, and what isn't.

I'm not going to post every attempt, but maybe I can cut up some of what I've got? to cobble together a final part?

Roger Zimmermann
02-14-19, 10:50 AM
The difference between us both: When I am beginning a project, I'm doing it! If it does not go in one piece, then in 2 or more! But, the most important: if you like your studies, do them and have fun!

02-15-19, 01:42 AM
Hello Roger,

Well, no work today, my day job ran me ragged. -I do think that I have a new plan, a new way of looking at the problems that I have set before myself. It's pretty clear in my minds eye. -I just have to make the time to get it done. (I have certainly explored a way to not do it!)

The difference between us, I think, is that you are a more linear thinker. I am saying this as two friends talking. -and I am THE lateral thinker! I always have been. I can think of ten ways to do almost anything, read of a few more, try several, watch a few videos, (time means little to me), and after all that, I still will not have made any progress!

My reason for choosing to make a Ford Model A, is not any great love for the car, (I do like them, but . . . ) but to use it as a learning project. Ford Model A's are very likely the best documented car, here in the U.S.A. A distant second is probably the Volkswagen Beetle. I can purchase, beg or borrow actual components. And there are several societies involved with their restorations, and club magazines filled with information. Judging guide-lines are published and updated regularly. And regional clubs, regional meets, a whole field to tap into for support and information. -I chose the Model A precisely because I wanted my work to be scrutinized by well informed people. I have a little of an art education, and I know of the value of group critiques, and/or my skin is not so thin that I cannot accept unsolicited criticism.

I hope to establish a portfolio of works, that I then can use to approach owners or museums of subjects that I am in love with.

I want to be seen as a craftsman, and to let my labors speak for themselves.


Roger Zimmermann
02-15-19, 03:35 AM
Another difference between us: if I'm doing a model in scale, it's because I like it! I understand you rationale about the Ford A and with that popularity in the US, you will not be confronted with the difficulties I had to do my models. I was lucky to get from GM blueprints for the frame and underbody for the Toronado; I had regrets at that time that I had nothing for the body. Fortunately, a Toronado was located in the town I was living and I went with the bicycle plus paper and a cheap analog camera to document what was needed.
The Avanti is the less accurate model of the three because...well, Avanti cars are not very common here! (and in the US either)
I was fortunate to have a good support from the Mark II forum members with pictures and dimensions and especially because at 8 or 10 miles there were 4 cars in various stages of disrepair!
If I understand well your thinking, you choose that (for me just an old car) Ford A to exercise and improve your skills. Why not? If you succeed, it may be a nice scale model. Just think less and do more!

02-16-19, 12:31 PM
I am very much enjoying our dialog, Roger. -your a thoughtful modeler!

It is difficult to believe that your Avanti, is the lesser of your masterpieces. Certainly it is an example of the whole exceeding the sum of its parts!

A very, very beautiful model!

Roger Zimmermann
02-17-19, 05:21 AM
As I noted, that model is not exactly to scale: too wide in the back, the firewall probably too low and other short cuts. There is nothing electric (a great benefit for the ease of assembly!), the body is in one piece (like the original), therefore less screws to attach various elements. You will see it when I will relate here it's reconstruction. I don't do it right now because I will mix the subjects I'm publishing right now in 7 forums: restoration of my '56 Biarritz, beginning of the Mark II here, repairs and completion of the Toronado!
I too appreciate the dialog!

02-18-19, 05:53 PM
You could make a separate thread and gallery for each?

Roger Zimmermann
02-19-19, 03:00 AM
Sorry, it will come later. I don't want to have more trouble than I have now.

02-20-19, 10:40 AM
I have started on a different approach to my problem with the "How to make a Front Cross Member"

Taking Roger's suggestion to divide and conquer, and looking at what was not working for me, I have created a new pattern for half of the cross member. I had been hammering down into a hollow space, and that is not the way to do it! Copper might be too soft, but hammering this way was creating a lot of unwanted and irregular lumps. I could not accurately control the movement of the metal, and I was not assured of getting the dimensions required.

So my new approach is to form over a pattern. (Rather than into)

This picture shows the first stage.


Next will be to add the correct radi, and then, form some Brass or Copper.

Roger Zimmermann
02-20-19, 10:52 AM
Green, the color of hope?

02-20-19, 05:41 PM
Yes, I have hopeful tape!

02-20-19, 05:43 PM
If someone with good eyes notices that my cuts are not along my pen lines, it’s because I laid down those lines before I squared my stock.


02-22-19, 03:51 AM
I did see this happening, -I fore-saw this happening, but after making my new pattern, and getting all the dimensions and radi right, I couldn't resist pounding away at it. The problem is the orientation of the grain, and that the grain is a rather open one.

All is not lost, and this will be used to make a sand mold, into which I will pour aluminum, and / or a low temp. metal. Maybe an epoxy?


Maybe I'll make one out of steel?

A few days later, I've made a hammer-form of steel. Made a paper pattern and included cuts in Copper sheet, annealed and done.

One half of my front cross member is done, now, on to the other half.




Every night this week I've worked a little more and a little more on trueing up my Steel hammer-form.

This last picture is of the Copper sheet formed over my Steel pattern, with a sheet cut and prepared to be formed.

The marks are "short-hand" to myself of areas that need more attention.

This piece will be used upside down and greatly trimmed when its time to assemble all the components to make the chassis front cross member.

03-15-19, 03:32 AM
I have been "fine-tuning" my Steel hammer-form, and working on my technique.


Roger Zimmermann
03-15-19, 03:44 AM
That's good looking! the secret in your design is to make the slices at the right dimension to have no excess material and no void. Is that however cost effective? Just you has the answer!

03-15-19, 10:00 AM
Good Morning Roger,

Thank you, it is surprisingly good looking considering how much work and re-work this one piece of tortured metal has gone through!

It is always a learning activity. -I will use this piece, and move on to making the rest of this cross-member, but I will also continue to remake all of the chassis parts until I become more proficient at forming metal.

So much to learn. So many ways to work, and so many techniques!

I haven't forgotten my Quail mold, and on the side, no not that side, the other side, I have been assembling a small pantograph from a box of parts that I bought a while ago. My intention is to make a more accurate pattern for my instrument cluster, and to use the pantograph to directly transfer details to a hydraulic pressing, which will be made of Nickle-Silver.

Stay tuned -

Thanks again, Roger!

03-16-19, 03:16 AM

My hope is that this weekend I can maybe solder up a front cross-member

04-08-19, 02:47 AM
I had a few extra days off this last week, but before I could start any work, I decided that I had to do some spring cleaning. Then there is the pantograph I bought in parts a while back. I got it assembled fine, but it only came with one collet, and that is of a tapered variety.

Probably unique to the manufacturer, Preis, but if anybody recognizes it, please let me know.


-so, as it sat I had to make a collet, actually I'll make several, but today it was just one. Looking at the collet system they use at my day job, I decided to make a shrink-fit collet, 1/8th of an inch. These are easy to make, they have great holding strength and run very true. To use them the bit is suspended at the collet's opening, the collet has been machined / reamed just shy of the desired diameter, the collet is heated, it expands, and the cutter slips into place.

I rushed this one, the next few will be much better, but it works!


The pantograph I bought is a smallish one, and it has many limitations, but it is well suited to making small stuff, like model stuff. -I had been looking for this specific model because a Canadian modeler has been using the same model for sixty years! David Kucer. An exceptional modeler of miniature guns!



www.kucers.com (http://www.kucers.com)

A really talented modeler, with immaculate skills!

Back to my plans for my pantograph. I hope to make a series of collets, size specific, and of course play with it a little to see what I can do. . . . 3-D reductions and garden variety engraving.

04-11-19, 12:53 PM
Still cleaning house and making runs to the scrap metal yard, -needed to make some tracers, steel, these are four times the size of the cutters, ball-end mills.


Reading an article by Mr. Kucer, he made a series of tracers in graduations of 1/64th of an inch, I hope I don't have to be THAT careful. (He works in Steel, I will be working in Aluminum and Brass and maybe Machinable Wax.)

One of the main advantages of a pantograph is the ability to have one pattern to trace and then to be able to reset the reduction ratios to achieve a range of machined sizes. -of course cutter diameter must be matched to tracer, and at the small end, fine end mills are very easy to break, so the collet, and spindle must spin absolutely true, and the incremental cuts have to be shallow.

We'll see! Like pretty much everything I do, I'm teaching myself. Hopeful it won't be a waste of time!

Roger Zimmermann
04-11-19, 01:15 PM
That is a super instrument for engraving letters/numbers like I could see on that miniature gun. Have fun with it!

04-11-19, 01:28 PM
Hello Roger!

We'll see! I had the chance a few months ago to buy a Deckel pantograph at a very good price, but it needed to be overhauled, who knew what was missing, and they weigh 1000 pounds!

I have become increasingly concerned about the weight of all my tools, in case I have to move, and so I pursued the purchase of this smaller machine. Obviously Mr. Kucer has made it work for him!

Have you ever thought to make models of guns?


06-01-20, 11:24 PM
This last weekend was to have been the first weekend, of trying to return to "normal" Here in California.

It didn't happen, because a man was killed. -He was killed by a policeman, and that generated impromptu demonstrations, which were themselves subverted into opportunities to riot, and loot, and scare people.

I had wanted to work on anyone of several modeling projects, but I didn't because I become too "focused" when doing that kind of work, and this weekend, I needed to be more aware of my surroundings!

So? I made a small metal cutting bandsaw. It is actually one that is made by Milwaukee, and meant to be portable, but I had been thinking of turning it into a stand-alone saw. -and so I did!

I can semi-retire my hacksaws!!!


Roger Zimmermann
06-02-20, 02:25 AM
Yep, next to the Chinese thing, your country is busy with almost a civil war.
Nice machine you have now! be careful with that you may very easily cut a finger or two as there are no protection ever the blade.

06-02-20, 02:49 AM
Hi Roger, yes I could get hurt, but the whole thing is much smaller than it looks. The blade also moves at a much slower rate than expected, it is a geared down direct drive, lots of torque! Capable of cutting 4" Steel bar, if I were so inclined. (Almost 4", 3 1/2")? -it's also a little noisy!

I don't know what to say about the states? Embarrassed, angry, disappointed.

06-21-20, 12:52 AM
I have had a hard time sleeping, worrying about Roger's worrying about my safety! -So, out of character for me? I finished something!

The fiberglass shell was laid over a urethane foam pattern. West System epoxy. (years old! but still good!) Fiberglass was from an old purchase, Bondo brand. The Aluminum blade guard, and column base were turned quickly on the lathe. -the most time was taken in watching the paint dry!!



06-21-20, 01:04 AM
Everything was made from materials on hand. (Not the shade of Red that I wanted, but I was determined to not make any new purchases!)

The Aluminum, plywood, paint, fiberglass and resin, were all stuff I had around the garage. The only new buys were the screws!

Consolidating much of my clutter into something useful! Now! Maybe I can get back to something like modeling!!

06-21-20, 02:09 AM
Those are some nice mods on the Milwaukee bandsaw. Don't lose the hacksaw, though. I've got into some good pinches when salvaging good stuff from junk and the old locked in stresses suddenly relieve. Hacksaw to the rescue.

Roger Zimmermann
06-21-20, 03:27 AM
Nice machine now and a bit more safe!

06-24-20, 02:50 PM
Thanks guys! I have, as you probably noticed a full size band saw, and it can easily handle Brass and Aluminum, but I had for a long time thought to make this stand alone saw, and reserve my larger saw for wood. This little saw can handle anything, Brass, Aluminum, Steel. -we'll see if it improves my productivity?

07-08-20, 01:18 AM

Not anything to do with model making, except that this date is my 3rd year anniversary, of having started, "my mad project!"

-And I would like to share this little video, of my home town, with you!

Like everyone, everywhere, we are all dealing with a very unexpected intrusion into our lives. Here in California, all our usual 4th of July celebrations were canceled. Fines of $1000.00! per offense! -we're in the beginning of our fire season. -We have had business closures. -Demonstrations. -Lootings. -Riots. -Bureaucratic hypocrisies!

Too much!

So? It looks like every other thousandth person, in Los Angeles county, decided for himself, to put on a small fireworks show. -for their kids? family? friends?

I hope you enjoy!

From my little slice of the world!

07-20-20, 01:49 AM
Ok? enough already with the bandsaw!

I promise this is the last picture. I have been very busy at both my day job and reorganizing my small shop. Organizing all my lathe stuff, milling machine, everything! -and a last touch to my pet project, my small bandsaw. -I made a plaster mold of the Milwaukee logo, off my "Sawszall" laid up some fiberglass and patched it in. Finally got the right color.

My next posts will be modeling, I promise!


Roger Zimmermann
07-20-20, 02:23 AM
Nice! The allen wrench is giving an idea about the size of the tool.

11-07-20, 08:20 AM
Great job!

11-07-20, 09:02 AM
Thanks George! Coming from you, any praise is truly special. -it is a very useful little saw, I use it more than I thought I would. It's just very convenient.

If anyone is thinking to make their own, I made a design decision that I may undo. -I have the blade running "natural" to the wheels, the folks at Milwaukee have blade guides that put a 45' twist to the blade in the area where the blade does meet the metal. This was done to allow long continuous cuts. Running cuts.

My decision to remove those guides was prompted by having a used saw with worn and loose guides. I should have repaired or replaced them instead of deleting them. -still a very useful saw, but I could make use of the added value of some long straight cutting.

Changing the subject. How are you and yours? I hope you are well. We miss your input. (Postings)


11-07-20, 09:41 AM
Hi Don,
We are doing great at this end. So far we have dodged the virus. We do get out a little but limit our exposure. I'm 75 although I don't act like it I have to realize how old I am and take the necessary precautions. Staying busy in the shop making chips, and plastic models. My plastic is smaller scale, 1/24-1/25 cars and a variety of aircraft in different scales. I do have a lot of completed projects I just try to keep them somewhat auto related for the forum. I don't want to veer off too far.
Thanks for asking,

11-07-20, 09:47 AM
I have an older Craftsman band saw. At the time is was marketed you could buy a two speed gear box attachment for it, which I did. For brass and aluminum I can use the higher blade speed but for steel I have to use the slower one. I cut all kinds of material on it and it has held up real well. The most important thing in using a bandsaw is to use a blade with at least 3 teeth in the stock. For really thin material this isn't possible but as long as the stock isn't over fed the blades won't break teeth.