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    • MOTM #29 Winner (TIE) Brass Build 1962 Jaguar XKE Roadster

      Follow the thread link below for details.....
      My Infamous Coupe Top-xke-engine-396-jpg
      This article was originally published in forum thread: Brass Build 1962 Jaguar XKE Roadster started by xken View original post
      Comments 294 Comments
      1. Giovanni's Avatar
        Giovanni -
        Here is the San Francisco Bay Area Club. I'm considering joining.http://www.baemclub.com/pages/nextmeeting.htmlThe meetings are on the third Saturday at 10:0am.I'm going to make the next meeting.I called Ken Hurst, the event planner, and he said the next show will be in Palo Alto. It is in conjunction and sponsored by The GoodGuys Auto Show. There is not a set event date as of yet.Here is Ken's Miniature Engines website :http://www.nvbackflow.com/engines/You can also see his latest engines on YouTube.
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Giovanni, That would be a great group to join, I believe they host the show that I was referring to earlier.

        Just wish we had something like that in our area to join.

        Ken
      1. Giovanni's Avatar
        Giovanni -
        I will call them about the show.
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Giovanni,

        Here is a link to the previous show. The car in the picture will be at Amelia Island. Enjoy! Ken

        WEMESHOW.COM
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Ahhwww...Nuts! All the acorn nuts are installed and looking great. I also painted the balance of the head then assembled the pistons and crankshaft and added the head.

        Here is a walk around of how it will be at the Amelia Island Show as a work in progress . The main block will be left brass and not painted black due to additional work that needs to be done.

        Attachment 20580
        Attachment 20581
        Attachment 20582
        Attachment 20583

        Next I need to finish up all the tasks for the Amelia Show. For the engine I will start the exhaust manifolds on the left side.

        Ken
      1. Giovanni's Avatar
        Giovanni -
        The engine is gorgeous!This engine would be displayed nicely on top of a vintage can of Castrol.
      1. VintageModMan's Avatar
        VintageModMan -
        Great work Ken , I'm really enjoying this build very much! I've always wanted to try the metal treating on my work in the past and this shows how it can be done with wonderful results!

        Gary
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Giovanni, that would be very interesting. Gary, it is real easy to do, give it a try sometime.

        I have been tied up most of the weekend getting ready for Amelia Island show resolving all the collateral material that most really just think appears out of nowhere. Items like judges scoring sheets, Do not touch, ballots for voting etc....

        Finally, last evening I got a little time to start the exhaust manifolds. I took the duplicate part that I made when working on the block locating the studs which is an example of thinking ahead. First I drilled out the clearance holes for the studs, then sawed out the rectangular holes, filed and cleaned up. Then cut the two apart. These were 1/32" stock and they were then soldered to a .016" thick stock to get the correct scale thickness and holes drilled and sawed again.

        This shows the two mating surfaces in place with 00-90 nuts. The rectangular holes will be used to index the oval shapes into for soldering, the horizontal width will be 5/16" wide for the part to be indexed.
        Attachment 20598

        Here is a close up showing the part in place. Note the "R" marked and two "dots" pressed into the surface with a scribe. These will identify which one goes where and which way is up and forward surface once removed. With these tight tolerances it makes a difference.

        The real exhaust manifolds are cast iron and porcelain coated to a high gloss glass finish held in place with brass nuts.
        Attachment 20599

        I will start with the two center holes that the tubes are bent straight down, then the others blend to them. I will start with 5/15" ros annealed to make bending easier.

        Ken

        PS We have 32 of the world' s best models registered for Amelia. If you are within driving distance stop by, this is a first time ever event at this Concours.

        Here is a side view of my engine showing the exhaust manifolds. Also at the rear you can see the oil line feed from the bottom of the block to the back of the cam area with banjo fittings in the lines.

      1. CTDavies's Avatar
        CTDavies -
        Quote Originally Posted by xken View Post

        PS We have 32 of the world' s best models registered for Amelia. If you are within driving distance stop by, this is a first time ever event at this Concours.
        Will there be one next year? I'd love to show my K74 Mercedes at a show like that, when it's done.
        Chris
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Chris,
        We more than welcome works in progress, why wait until next year; can you make it this year? People really enjoy works in progress because they can see how they are being built.

        Ken
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        On to the the cast iron headers. The headers transition from 2 1/2" wide oval at the flange through a 90 degree bend and down to a 2" round at the mount flange that is threaded for studs to attach the exhaust pipes.

        First I started with a 1/4" rod and annealed it with a propane torch and plunge it in cold water to to soften the rod for easier bending.
        Start the bend in a vise by hand and then hammer to tight desired bend. Care must be taken not to over bend; trying to bend back may snap the rod due to work hardening. The top horizontal bend from inside flange surface to outside of rod is 1/2" while the height is 7/8" sawed off with the jeweler's saw.
        Attachment 20611

        The top oval was developed by sawing down the center of the rod through and past the bend to get an even spread later.
        Attachment 20612

        Here is the flange view of the saw cut which was hit with a chisel to start the opening. A wedge was filed from 1/16" x 1/4" stock and carefully hammered into the cut to obtain the 5/16" (2 1/2") size.
        Attachment 20613

        Here is the wedge in place ready to solder.
        Attachment 20614

        The wedge was soldered using Staybrite solder. Leave the end of the wedge in place it provides a gripping handle for filing and shaping.
        Attachment 20615

        This shows the flange oval end sawed and filed to a press fit in the mounting flange rectangular hole. This is where skill with the jeweler's saw come into play sawing away the excess and then file to fit. The roughness is the saw cuts, what was removed was the material thickness of the mounting flange.
        Attachment 20616

        The part press fit into the mounting flange with clearance for the 00-90 nuts; just like the real car the bottom nuts are a challenge to start once the rest of the header is in place. Press fit and mechanical interlock is the key to keeping parts together during subsequent soldering operations later on.
        Attachment 20617

        The bottom flange to carry the studs to attach the exhaust pipes is a 1/2" thick. This shows the two needed being done at the same time. I started by drilling a 15/64" hole and then reaming to a press fit 1/4" round hole. Care must be used to sneak up on a tight press fit for soldering and keeping the part in place.
        Attachment 20618

        Once the large holes were completed the mounting stud holes were located, drilled and tapped to 00-90 threads.

        These will be soldered in place and the the same procedure will be done for the forward end and then the middle one. Just time consuming fun.

        Ken
      1. VintageModMan's Avatar
        VintageModMan -
        Hi Ken I was wondering, The pipes are ceramic coated for the 1:1 ? I was wondering if using a powder coat would simulate this surface treatment? Maybe you had other ideas to do your Manifold? Looking great Ken and always look forward to your new post.

        Gary K
      1. CTDavies's Avatar
        CTDavies -
        Hi Ken, it's way out of the question this year. Flights at such short notice are verrry expensive, so I'll rather wait and see if there's another show next year.
        Chris
      1. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar
        ScaleMotorcars -
        Ken, I finally placed my order for your book. I cant wait to get it.

        Also, I fixed the title of this tread. I didnt realize it changed when I awarded the last MOTM.
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Gary, not sure what the melt temp is for powder coat but could play havoc with the solder joints.

        Chris, Glenmoor is in September, not sure where you are flying from but check on flights to Akron/Canton (CAK) airport, 10-15 minutes from Glenmoor.

        Daniel, glad to hear about the purchase, I will have to sign it for you when we connect.

        Wrapping up last minute details for Amelia and heading out Thursday after work.

        Ken
      1. VintageModMan's Avatar
        VintageModMan -
        Ken I had my metal frames all welded in silver solder with the borax type solder paste. I believe 44% silver? I had these frames powder coated. Maybe your solder is lower melting point . I used a torch flame with oxygen and propane for soldering. So you may be right. I was just curious and you may have a very good point on the matter.

        I just looked up the melting temp on powder coating and it says, "crystalline or semi-crystalline oligomer or polymer that when subject to heat melts and flows-out at a temperature between 60° C. and 180° C., more preferably between 60° and 140° C." and "Generally the powder coating composition is applied to the surface of a substrate and fused to form a continuous film at an elevated temperature that is often referred to as “baking” or “stoving” temperature. The baking temperature is typically in the range of 160-200° C. for thermal curing formulations."

        Thanks for your reply Ken.



        Enjoy the show

        Gary
      1. Giovanni's Avatar
        Giovanni -
        I have had metal parts with K-B Weld repaired parts powder coated with good results.
      1. VintageModMan's Avatar
        VintageModMan -
        Giovani, that is very interesting!

        Gary
      1. xken's Avatar
        xken -
        Gary your 180 C is 356 F and the low temp solder is 350. Could work with just the Staybrite which has a higher temp range.
        Interesting where do you get your powder coat? I have seen it done on an industrial basis with a spray gun and static charge; how about a home hobby application? Can you share some more information?

        Ken

        Heading down to Amelia Island this afternoon. What an incredible selection of models that will be seen there built by some of the best builders around.
      1. Old Busted Hotness's Avatar
        Old Busted Hotness -
        The only thing I'd watch out for with powder coating is the thickness of the coat. I've seen some that come out almost 1/8 inch thick.
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