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    • Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale

      Hello

      This is it, my first assembly report on Scale Motor Cars.
      In September 2011, I´ve started building a Ford Model T in 1914 at a scale of 1:8.

      Daniel / "Scale Motor Cars" saw my construction overview in a German forum and asked me to show them at this site, so here you are. This request I am happy to comply.

      In the first few lines a friend of mine helped me translating my letters into English language because my listening and understanding English is quite well but writing and speaking would be necessary to improve.

      In my next report Daniel has offered me kindly to translate my further explanations. So I'll set it up first time in German and Daniel will then translate it for me.

      Thus a huge thanks to Daniel.

      Because of I´ve been building for a couple of months already, I will set several pictures of the actual model at the beginning.
      If you have questions about the building report, I'll try to answer them of course.




      Weil es dieses Modell nicht als Modell in 1:8 gibt, muß ich wohl alle Teile zu 100% selber anfertigen.
      Das dürfte also mein bisher aufwendigstes Projekt werden. Das fertige Modell dürfte dann so ca. 42cm lang, 21cm breit und 25cm hoch werden.
      Diese Zeichnung dient mir als Vorbild und hier kann ich mir auch alle wichtigen Maße abnehmen.

      Because this model does not give it as a model in 1:8, I'll have all the parts to 100% do it yourself.
      So that should be my most complex project.The finished model should be so approx 42cm long, 21cm wide and 25cm high are.
      This drawing serves as a role model to me and here I can also pick up all the important dimensions.


      Außerdem habe ich in München im Deutschen Museum von diesem (besteht nur aus Fahrgestell und Motor) und einem ähnliches Modell (mit Aufbau) ca 100 Photos von allen möglichen Details gemacht.
      Die beiden Modelle unterscheiden sich hauptsächlich bei der Karosserie. Fahrgestell, Motor, Rahmen, usw. müssten identisch sein.

      I also have the Deutsches Museumin Munich from this (consisting only of chassis and engine) and made​​ a similar model (with construction) about 100 photos from all sorts of details.
      The two models differ mainly in the body.Chassis,engine, frame,etc.should be identical.


      Beginnen will ich heute mit den ersten Rahmenteilen.
      Vorne:

      I will begin today with the first frame parts.
      front:


      Und diesem Teil Hinten:

      And this part of the back:


      Dazu habe ich mir zwei Biege Schablonen zurechtgesägt und gefeilt.

      In addition I've sawed and filed two bending patterns.


      Auf die schmalere der beiden Platten konnte ich jetzt die 6x6mm Messing-U-Leiste aufstecken und mit dem zweiten Stempel von oben die U-Leiste in Form biegen. Die U-Leisten habe ich vorher zum glühen gebracht, damit es weicher wird und sich besser umformen lässt.

      On the narrower of the two boards I was able to attach the 6x6 mm brass bar and U-turn with the second punch from the top bar in the U-shape.The U-bars I've previously made ​​to glow, so it is softer and more canbe rewritten.




      Damit sich die beiden Seiten des U beim Biegen nicht verformen habe ich zwei Leisten dazugespannt.

      Thus,not the two sides of the Uturn when I have two deformed bars to tension.


      Und nun das Ergebnis des ersten Tages.

      And now the result of the first day.






      Die beiden U-Leisten müssen jetzt nur noch etwas gekürzt werden.

      Ich hoffe ich habe mit meinem neuen Projekt euer Interesse geweckt.

      Noch nicht mal richtig angefangen, habe ich schon meinen ersten Fehler gemacht.

      Bei einem der beiden U-Träger habe ich mich in der Form geirrt.
      Also habe ich das Werkzeug nochmal abgeändert und ein neues U angefertigt.
      (neue Werkzeug Geometrie)

      The two U-bars must now only be slightly reduced.

      I hope I have aroused your interest in my new project.

      Not even properly started yet, I've already made​​ my first mistake.

      In one of the two U-vehicle I was wrong in form.
      So I modified the tool again and made​​ a newsubway.
      (newtoolgeometry)


      Oben das Falsche Teil, unten das neue mit der richtigen Form.

      Up the wrong part,below the right with the new form.



      Die zwei Längs-U-Träger (rechts und links) verjüngen sich zubeiden Ende hin, also konnte ich keine normale U-Leiste verwenden.
      Ich habe mich für folgende Variante entschieden.

      5x5mm Messing L-Leisten habe ich passend zugeschnitten und zurechtgefeilt.

      The two longitudinal-U launchertaper(rightand left) at the endzubeidenout, so I could not use a standard U-bar.
      I opted for the following variant.

      5x5mmbrassL-strips I cut to size and trimmed filed.




      Die Einzelteile habe ich dann verlötet, und in einem ersten Schritt schon einmal die Lötstellen grob verfeilt.

      The parts I then soldered,and as a first step before the soldering verfeilt coarse.




      Die Vorderseite werde ich noch etwas Verspachteln, damit der Spalt zwischen den L-Leisten verschwindet. Das Modell wird am ende schwarz Lackiert, dann fällt das nicht mehr auf.

      Ich hatte mir auch überlegt die U-Träger aus einem stück Blech zu biegen oder aus je 3 Blechen zusammenzulöten.
      Aber an der von mir gewählten Variante gefällt mir das die Außenkanten rechteckig sind und nicht wie beim Biegen einen Radius aufweisen. Und stabiler als sie aus einzelnen Blechen währe. Außerdem sind die L-Leisten gerader als es zugeschnittene und zurechtgefeilte Bleche währen.


      Um die ganzen Blechteile für das Modell zuschneiden zu können habe ich mir eine kleine Blechschere gebaut.

      The front I'm still a little spackling, so that the gap between the L-bar disappears.The model is painted black at the end, then the fall to no more.

      I had also considered theU-beams from one piece to bend sheet metal or zusammenzulötenfromeach 3 sheets.
      But like in my chosen variant me the outer edges are rectangular and not as abending radius. And more stable than they Währe from individual plates. In addition, the L-bars are straight as it Währen tailored and trimmed sheets filed.

      To cut the whole sheet metal parts for the model, I built a small tin snips.

      Jetzt brauche ich die Bleche nicht mehr auszusägen und nachzufeilen. Und kein Verzug der Bleche wie es mit einer normalen Schere der Fall währe.
      Bis zu 1mm Blechstärke kann ich damit Messingbleche zuschneiden.

      Now I need the sheets and not more nachzufeilenauszusägen. And no distortion of the sheets how about a normal pair of scissors is the case.
      Up to1 mm thickness so that I can cut brass plates.


      So nun aber wieder zum Modell.
      Wenn ich Bleche nach dem Zuschneiden noch biegen muß, mache ich das im Schraubstock mithilfe von gehärteten Leisten.

      So now, but back to the model.
      I fIt urn sheets after cutting yet, I must do it in a vise using hardened bars.


      Alle Einzelteile für den hinteren Rahmen.

      All parts for the rear frame.


      Die großen Winkel habe ich angelötet.

      The large angle I've soldered.


      Die anderen Teile habe ich mit M1-Messing-Schauben verschraubt.

      The other parts I've screwed with brass screws M1.






      Der Rahmen war zwar eigentlich vernietet, da ich ihn aber immer wieder mal zerlegen muß (zum Motor einbauen, Lackieren, usw.) werde ich ihn komplett verschrauben.

      Jetzt ist der vordere Rahmen an der Reihe.

      Although the frame was actually riveted him but because I always break down times (must install the engine, painting,etc.) I will fasten him completely.

      Now, the front part of the series.


      Die Einzelteile habe ich zum Teil an den Rahmen angelötet.

      The parts I've soldered in part to the frame.


      Der Rest wurde wieder verschraubt.

      The rest was screwed again.






      Und jetzt der komplette Rahmen.

      And now the entire frame.


      An die Halterungen links wird später die Karoserie verschraubt.
      Und an die Teile rechts werden später die Trittbretter angeschraubt.

      To the brackets on the left later the car body is screwed.
      And right in the later parts of the running boards are screwed.


      Die Karoserie Winkel habe ich aus zwei Messingteilen zusammengelötet.

      The angular bodywork I've soldered together from two brass parts.




      Die Halterungen für die Trittbretter sind auch aus drei Teilen verlötet.

      The supports for the running boards are also soldered into three parts.


      Die fertigen und angeschraubten Teile.

      The finished parts and bolted.






      Jetzt zeige ich euch wie ich bei den beiden Federpaketen vorgegangen bin.

      Original vorne:

      Now I'll show you how I proceeded with the two spring packages have.

      Original front:


      Als Ausgangsmaterial habe ich 0,9mm Stahlblech verwendet.

      I have used as starting material 0.9 mm sheet steel.


      Die Bleche habe ich zuerst gebogen und anschließend auf länge zugesägt.
      Die Ösen habe ich mit einer Rundzange gebogen nachdem ich die enden der Bleche mit einem Lötbrenner zum Glühen gebracht hatte.

      The sheets I cut to length and then bent first.
      The eyes I bent with a pliers after reading the plates end with a tube support for the annealing had brought.


      Die beiden Halterungen habe ich aus Messingblech gebogen und anschließend mit dem Federpaket verschraubt.

      The two mounts I have bent from sheet brass and then bolted to the spring assembly.




      Das hintere Federpaket hat schon eine kompliziertere Geometrie.
      Original hinten:

      The rear springs have been a more complicated geometry.
      Originalback:


      Zuerst habe ich den Zentralen Radius gebogen.

      First I bent the central radius.


      Und danach die anderen beiden. Es war garnicht so einfach da jedes Blech einen anderen Radius hat.

      And then the other two. It was not so easy because each plate has a different radius.




      Zum Schluß das fertige Packet mit den Messing Halterungen.

      Finally, the finished package with brass mounts.


      This article was originally published in forum thread: Ford Modell T 1:8 started by Bender_13 View original post
      Comments 303 Comments
      1. sjordan's Avatar
        sjordan -
        Amazing work. One question: Shouldn't the Ford logo on the radiator be embossed (gepragt) and not engraved (graviert)? This could probably be done with photoetching.

        Fabelhaft! Eine Frage: soll der Ford Logo nicht geprägt sein, sondern graviert? Man konnte es mit Photoetch machen
      1. sydeem's Avatar
        sydeem -
        Good Lord - either I have been asleep or this thread has had a major overhaul. I don't remember seeing all the history that now begins with the start of this build or had I noticed the translation by HFC of all the dialog. This is a fantastic tutorial in scratch building. Now this would be a model that would be far and above any kit offered. I had hoped to do something like this with a classic 1932 ford but failed. If TDR were able to make add ons to the Deuce and T kits available we would have mantelpieces instead of just models.
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello sjordan

        Quote Originally Posted by sjordan View Post
        Amazing work. One question: Shouldn't the Ford logo on the radiator be embossed (gepragt) and not engraved (graviert)? This could probably be done with photoetching.
        You are right. The logo would have to be embossed. Nothing else occurred to me at that time. Actually it pleases me however completely well.
        I hope you understand my English.


        Jens
      1. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar
        ScaleMotorcars -
        Jens your English is far better then Googles version of German. I have no problem understanding you.

        Ill catch up some of the translations soon. Im finally feeling better. What a nightmare of a Flu this year.
      1. hot ford coupe's Avatar
        hot ford coupe -
        I can't take the credit for the translations. That's been done by Dan.
      1. Tony's Avatar
        Tony -
        Much of the fun about building is making some of the tooling for the project, your tooling and how you engineer this project is great, looking forward to learning more and more
        Nice work so far, look forward to another update
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello


        First, today I have the holes drilled for the valves in the spokes of wheels. (All holes I drill by hand in plastic, not with the drill machine.)





        After I had installed the valves I could drill the holes for the wheel hub parts. Then I connected the hub to the spokes with ball-head screws.
        Finally, I plugged the two aluminum halves on spoke rims.
        The tire is only half of the photo on the rim. The two tire halves so I stick only if the spokes are painted together.
        The front wheel:






        The rear wheel:







        Best regards Jens
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        Now I start with the instrument panel.






        The individual parts for the two Mounting plates .




        To the conclusion I still drill the holes and filed her in form.


        I made the instrument panel from a 3mm Polysterol plate. Subsequently, I screwed the parts on with ball-head screws.





        Jens
      1. Tony's Avatar
        Tony -
        Incredible skills, and some great tips here, thanks for sharing
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        The next part that I have machined brass serves as a support for the hood on the dashboard.









        Jens
      1. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar
        ScaleMotorcars -
        OK.. I'm officially IMPRESSED. Really its official...
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        I was thinking would prefer to use wood for the dashboard and the coil box.

        The used veneer.


        4 thin wooden strips I glued the veneer on both sides.


        And the 4 bars I then glued together.


        The new instrument panel:




        The coil box:


        After the first parts are done now, I must say I like the wood also much better. The contrast effect later in the otherwise black car will be great.


        MfG Jens
      1. Ton's Avatar
        Ton -
        Thank you Jens for showing the veneer procedure. I can you tell/show us how you did the box....especially the edges/corners.
      1. hot ford coupe's Avatar
        hot ford coupe -
        That's what I call nice, tight grain wood. It looks perfectly in scale. Very well done.
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello




        The brass strips I've attached the right and left on the dashboard with rivets.
        The support for the hood I have installed exactly the same.







        Jens
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        The corroded keys remained remaining still by my last project.
        For the starter lock I stuck two semicircular profiles into a pipe. So I could put the key in.




        The two mounting plates lock the cover of the coil box.


        At this course the mixture can be adjusted later from the driver's seat.


        I fastened the first parts already once to the coil box.


        And those are the connections those in the back from the coil box come and to the late the cables to be fastened.


        And to the conclusion, I installed all parts today.










        Jens
      1. hot ford coupe's Avatar
        hot ford coupe -
        Good Gravy again. That's just too good.
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        I fastened the wiring harness with three clips to the instrument panel.

        The cables lead later to the two headlights and the battery.



        Now I could screw the instrument panel at the frame.
















        Jens
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        Now I begin with the steering element.
        The part makes the beginning at the framework that the rotating motion of the steering wheel turns back and to the front wheels passes on.
        To the turned part I soldered already once two pipes.


        Which following I into shape-filed.


        To the first part still two further are soldered on. Thus the two pipes soldered on first, with which following soldering again do not drop has I it with a wire provisionally fixed.








        After everything was soldered, I could into shape-file the part.


        Then I have still another small oiler turned which I in my construction unit above clean-put.


        To the conclusion I could screw the part at the frameworks.







        Jens
      1. Bender_13's Avatar
        Bender_13 -
        Hello

        And it continues to go with the steering element.




        Those are the individual parts of the mounting plate for the steering bar in the instrument panel.




        After soldering I filed the whole still in form.


        And to the test I plugged the thing together once with the other parts.





        Jens
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